Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 04 June 2012, 21:38:09
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Please can I start just by saying I know I have posted a couple of threads moaning about my recent autobox failure, insurance issues, etc. Please disregard them and don't post on them now. The insurance company is sorted, the parts are being collected, and a manual conversion is in progress. This thread will be my work-in-progress, dedicated to this. So I'd be really grateful if we didn't go tooooo off topic ;)
So this afternoon I decided to assault my MV6. The auto box failing once, was enough, failing twice, too much. Time to manualise.
So - Car raised up on axle stands. (Please note the 3 tonne jack has not been used to lift on the crossmember. It's simply resting there as a 'get out of jail free card'. Take no chances under these things).
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/raised.jpg)
Next job was to remove both Cats. I'm not going to lie, the downpipe nuts were a barsteward, and the good old Irwin grippers had to come out along with Mr Breaker Bar. The mid section joints fancied a fight too. Ran out of plusgas, and no wheels to get to hellfrauds, so had to make do with WD40. Was better than nothing.
But here they are. The Offside one is a little worse for wear, and won't be re fitted, as I can source a much better one.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/cats.jpg)
Then it was electrical connectors, gearbox cooler pipes, and little bits of faff, which I didn't bother to photo.
Then off with the propshaft: (Ignore the drive plate in the background, pics taken retrospectively! More on that later).
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Prop.jpg)
Off with the 6 bolts holding the Torque Converter to the driveplate, being careful not to let crank turn anti clockwise (not pictured)
Now, put bluntly, with all the crap out of the way, it's time to lower the box off off it's supporting rear mount, and drop the box and TC together on the ground. I have to hold up my hands, I wasn't toooo gentle with lowering this one, knowing it's going straight in the skip.... here it is removed from the car:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/gearbox.jpg)
With the prop and autobox out of the way, now a nice bit of room up under here! I will have to get under here to pop the rivets out for the auto gearstick assembly.
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/gap.jpg)
Here is the flex plate removed from the engine. Given the noise I wondered if I'd find this broken, but it was all intact and hunky dory...
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/flexplate.jpg)
And here you can see what it's left behind - the rear crank part of the engine. This is a great opportunity to have a nose around the back of the engine and look for leaks:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/rear-1.jpg)
It's sadly not hugely clear in the picture below, but there is evidence my rear crank seal has been leaking. This will be sorted before it goes back together. (They're not cheap, but you'd be daft not to use it, or use anything other than a genuine seal, given the location and effort involved to get to it)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/leak.jpg)
That's pretty much it for tonight, although I did decide to do a little post mortem on the box to see if I could work out the failure mode.
Torque Converter. Looks ok, no bits came out of it, but I don't know of an easy way to test or be sure:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/tc.jpg)
Bellhousing off:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/nobellhouse.jpg)
Front thrust washer. Expected to find this in bits, but was fine:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/thrustwasher.jpg)
Collection of clutches.... nothing here that would cause the awful noise..
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/clutches.jpg)
Spragg clutch assembly. This didn't feel too great to turn, but hadn't fallen apart like the one on my previous autobox!
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/sprag.jpg)
Sadly won't be any more updates until The weekend now, as I've got a lot of other stuff on. But I am collecting the parts from Robsey on Friday evening, and I do need to crack on and try and get this nailed on Saturday, because I desperately need my wheels....
Not bad considering I didn't sleep last night ;D
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.....
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It's sadly not hugely clear in the picture below, but there is evidence my rear crank seal has been leaking. This will be sorted before it goes back together. (They're not cheap, but you'd be daft not to use it, or use anything other than a genuine seal, given the location and effort involved to get to it)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/leak.jpg)
.....
£34.01 ...... There's a brand new one in my glove box waiting to be fitted to mine! :y :y
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Crikey, vaseline needed at that price Andy!
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Crikey, vaseline needed at that price Andy!
I wasn't expecting that much either! ??? ???
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Top man James.
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Good man!!! long time overdue but it will be a far better car when completed!!
DONT FORGET TO FIT A CRANKSHAFT SPIGOT BEARING IN THERE!!
shouting over but i know of at least 3 people who havent done this, then wondered why the gearbox broke its first mainshaft bearing!! :y
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Good man!!! long time overdue but it will be a far better car when completed!!
DONT FORGET TO FIT A CRANKSHAFT SPIGOT BEARING IN THERE!!
shouting over but i know of at least 3 people who havent done this, then wondered why the gearbox broke its first mainshaft bearing!! :y
Speak up Graham ..... couldn't quite hear you! ;D ;D ;D
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Good man!!! long time overdue but it will be a far better car when completed!!
DONT FORGET TO FIT A CRANKSHAFT SPIGOT BEARING IN THERE!!
shouting over but i know of at least 3 people who havent done this, then wondered why the gearbox broke its first mainshaft bearing!! :y
I will be emailing Andyc as soon as he's open ;) :y
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Looks like good progress already. Working in anger maybe ;)
Good luck with this project. :y I'll be interested to follow the project. Want need the tips myself as I already drive a car with the correct amount (3) pedals. ;) , but interested all the same
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Looks like good progress already. Working in anger maybe ;)
Good luck with this project. :y I'll be interested to follow the project. Want need the tips myself as I already drive a car with the correct amount (3) pedals. ;) , but interested all the same
If God had wanted us to drive mauals he would have given us three legs and three feet ;)
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Looks like good progress already. Working in anger maybe ;)
Good luck with this project. :y I'll be interested to follow the project. Won't need the tips myself as I already drive a car with the correct amount (3) pedals. ;) , but interested all the same
If God had wanted us to drive mauals he would have given us three legs and three feet ;)
I ain't religious ;) That said, I heard a rumour that God created us a couple of years or so before the car was created. ;)
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Looks like good progress already. Working in anger maybe ;)
Good luck with this project. :y I'll be interested to follow the project. Want need the tips myself as I already drive a car with the correct amount (3) pedals. ;) , but interested all the same
If God had wanted us to drive mauals he would have given us three legs and three feet ;)
If God had wanted us to stay in Caravans, he would not have invented hotels :P
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James , I discarded the DMF and its expensive clutch kit.. instead I used a single mass flywheel (vectra 2.5), re-machined the surface and the clutch kit is cheaper .. now using it without any problems..
unfortunately filling the hydraulic lines for clutch reuqires more than a single person , so you will need help..
by the way I'm still curious how you come out alive from under this heavy autobox ??? ???
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James , I discarded the DMF and its expensive clutch kit.. instead I used a single mass flywheel (vectra 2.5), re-machined the surface and the clutch kit is cheaper .. now using it without any problems..
unfortunately filling the hydraulic lines for clutch reuqires more than a single person , so you will need help..
by the way I'm still curious how you come out alive from under this heavy autobox ??? ???
Trust me Cem, when I was undoing the last bolt, I was nowhere near underneith that auto box! I left that job to my 3 tonne Jack :y
Clutch can be reverse bled with an Easibleed :)
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How did you over come the insurance issue?
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He mentioned that as long as it didn't increase the power of the car, it was just a mod, iirc ???
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All the best with this James, stay safe :y :y
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Tunnie, spoke to someone more helpful at Insurance company. basically as long as I don't want it to increase cars value, it's ok. I can even add the mod online :y
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Tunnie, spoke to someone more helpful at Insurance company. basically as long as I don't want it to increase cars value, it's ok. I can even add the mod online :y
Interesting, I guess you did not tell them no retail spec manual 3.2 MV6 was made ;D
Would imagine value would increase, as it would be one of a kind? :-\
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Nice on James ;) :y
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Yes very interesting thread james , if i ever have any trouble with my auto box its what i would like to do as well so reading with great interest . Keep up the good work ...a lot of technical phrases being used but getting the gist of what your saying eventually , sprag clutch.. sure i had one of them on my aprillia rsv 1000 ;D :y
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Looks like good progress already. Working in anger maybe ;)
Good luck with this project. :y I'll be interested to follow the project. Want need the tips myself as I already drive a car with the correct amount (3) pedals. ;) , but interested all the same
If God had wanted us to drive mauals he would have given us three legs and three feet ;)
If God had wanted us to stay in Caravans, he would not have invented hotels :P
Er, don't think God invented either Caravans or Hotels. ;)
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Well I didn't get much done yesterday. Master cylinder fitted, brake pedal swapped over, clutch petal assembly and clutch pedal fitted. Now looks like so:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/newpedals.jpg)
I spent a while working out how the gear assembly etc worked and have drilled out all of the Auto Rubbish..
Sadly I forgot to order a spigot bearing and bush so I couldn't fit the box.
One question.
In the guide, Matchless mentions an adaptor ring, between the crank and driveplate.
I cannot see any type of ring?? My flywheel seems to bolt directly to the crank? Is there anything else to remove?
Sadly won't have a day off for another 4 days or so now, so will pick this up again, then, hopefully having ordered the bearing etc that I need from Andyc (and the crank seal!)
I also need some interior trim for the manual conversion.. if anyone can help, thread is in parts wanted :y
Cheers,
James
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Well done James, not the best job to do but i can only say the worst is over :y
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Well done James, not the best job to do but i can only say the worst is over :y
Cheers mate :y
I don't suppose you can shed any light on the adaptor ring, what such a thing is? I have read I have an old one from the Auto setup that I need to ditch, but can't see that I had one fitted... :-\
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Well done James, not the best job to do but i can only say the worst is over :y
Cheers mate :y
I don't suppose you can shed any light on the adaptor ring, what such a thing is? I have read I have an old one from the Auto setup that I need to ditch, but can't see that I had one fitted... :-\
Just everythink comes off from engine so your left with bear chank end then the DMF bolts on, also my mate might have gear stick leather but not the best condition with gear knob. will let you know on it soon.
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Hi James,
The "adaptor ring" is more of a spacer between flex plate and crank, you must remove it. I almost missed it as it was stuck fast to the end of the crank.
Is your rear oil seal OK?
Have you got the correct flywheel bolts? manual ones are longer than auto. Also, if your bolts are hex head (rather than torx) then grind the end of your socket flat....the bolt heads are very thin and the socket will slip off the bolt else.
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cheers for all tips :y
I am so sorry to sound dense, but there is nothing between my crank end and drive plate? The driveplate just bolted straight to engine. Could anyone post a pic of this adaptor ring please? :/
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This "Adapter Ring" if you have not removed it,it will be still on. They don't just fall off they have to be knocked off.
As Matchless says they are extremely difficult to see.
Your duel mass flywheel will not sit on properly if this ring is still on. I do have a picture somewhere will see if I can find it.
If you look very closely on the side of the Crank where it comes out of the rear crankseal can you see a hairline? As thas all you will see.
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cheers for all tips :y
I am so sorry to sound dense, but there is nothing between my crank end and drive plate? The driveplate just bolted straight to engine. Could anyone post a pic of this adaptor ring please? :/
lets make this clear there no spacer on crank 110% , fly wheel its bolt on to crank thats it
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(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/01052010002.jpg)
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This what you want Daz (http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/DSC_0094.jpg)
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If I remember correctly Rob, the 3.0 and 2.5 adapter plates are separate like the picture I have posted, but on the 2.6 and 3.2 they are fastened to the Flex Plate like the picture you have posted..
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If I remember correctly Rob, the 3.0 and 2.5 adapter plates are separate like the picture I have posted, but on the 2.6 and 3.2 they are fastened to the Flex Plate like the picture you have posted..
The pic is one of yours when you were doing Paul Lovecocks car :D. IIRC his is a 2.5 innit :-\
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I have put a faint arrow could have been a bit thicker really but that shows where the size is different if you follow me. When the plate I have posted higher is fitted onto the end of the crank you then have the thickness of the plates lip too.
Like I say this is on a 3.0 sure they are different on the 2.6 & 3.2's as this plate stays on the flex plate like in your pic Rob :y
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s304/Loo-knee/44mm.jpg)
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If I remember correctly Rob, the 3.0 and 2.5 adapter plates are separate like the picture I have posted, but on the 2.6 and 3.2 they are fastened to the Flex Plate like the picture you have posted..
The pic is one of yours when you were doing Paul Lovecocks car :D. IIRC his is a 2.5 innit :-\
It is definately a picture I took but Loverlength's car is a 2.6 mate :y
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If I remember correctly Rob, the 3.0 and 2.5 adapter plates are separate like the picture I have posted, but on the 2.6 and 3.2 they are fastened to the Flex Plate like the picture you have posted..
The pic is one of yours when you were doing Paul Lovecocks car :D. IIRC his is a 2.5 innit :-\
It is definately a picture I took but Loverlength's car is a 2.6 mate :y
I stand corrected then ::)
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Thanks Gents :y
I will double check, but to clarify..
On 2.5 and 3.0, adaptor ring is seperate and needs knocking off
on 2.6 and 3.2, it's part of the driveplate, so I shouldn't have to do this.
Have I read this right?
Cheers again :y
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Thanks Gents :y
I will double check, but to clarify..
On 2.5 and 3.0, adaptor ring is seperate and needs knocking off
on 2.6 and 3.2, it's part of the driveplate, so I shouldn't have to do this.
Have I read this right?
Cheers again :y
Yes.
Look at your third picture of this thread, take a look at the ring still on your Flex Plate. Then look at the picture Rob posted of the damaged one from Loverlength's 2.6... :y
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Cheers Daz :y
Just one more question (2 actually) for you good people.
The spigot bearing and Bush. The guide says push the bush into the crank... and then tap in the bearing...
the bearing isn't such that it would fit inside the bush - so what's the situation, does the bush go in first, and bearing in front of it? What does the bush do, is it just a spacer?
Also, the guide says to fit the gearstick etc prior to fitting the gearbox..
But the black plate the gear lever sits in, bolts onto the gearbox with 2 bolts... aside of 2 supporting ones at the rear of the tunnel, I Can't see anywhere to fix this? Should I just fit it with the box, all as one assembly? :-\
I seem to remember leaving it all in the tunnel, when I took the box out of my old manual Omega for a clutch change, but no recollection of how it was fixed etc.... :-\
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James, do you want us to club together and come and do it for ya? ;D
I would leave the gearstick where it is, removing the gearbox separately. Pretty suresure the spiggot beaing just knocks in.
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James, please make some notes where you think the
idiots maintenance guide needs to be clearer. ;)
The guide was written around a 2.5, I didnt know the flexplate spacer had been fixed to the flexplate for the 2.6 / 3.2 so that is worth adding.
Spigot bearing: the nylon bit goes down the hole first, then tap in the needle roller bearing. I think the nylon bit helps the input shaft to align with the needle rollers when you are fitting the box.
Fit the gearlever first....to the car! You can struggle to fit it all togeather and rivet it in place once the box is in if you want but I wouldnt recommend it.
Think you said you were waiting for a new oil seal? If this comes a a bare seal, without an introducer (plastic sleeve) inside it, then you need to make one yourself to aid fitting to the block. If you fit it without you will be stripping it all down again fairly soon to replace the seal you damaged. :-[
Get hold of some brass shim or cut up a CokeTM can etc. You want enough thin metal to form a tight fitting tube around the end of the crank. Wrap the shim around the crank tightly and secure the ends with sellotape, then slide it off and make sure all sharp edges are covered with a layer of tape.
Grease the seal lips then carefully slide the tube into the seal ..from the outside of the seal.
Fit the tube over the end of the crank and slide the seal up to the block, carefully tap the seal into place before removing the tube.
The reason for all this is that the crank face and the block face are flush so you cannot get the seal lip to fit over the crank until the seal is partly fitted into the block and it is all too easy to damage the lip.
One other point, the gearbox rear cradle will bolt to a different pair of holes in the car floor to the ones used by the auto....check the bolts scew into the holes first, mine had some sort of coating clogging the threads which made life difficult, wished I had run a tap through first.
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the only thing holding the gear lever assembly is the rubber bit that covers the rectangular bit that rivets to the tunnel...
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worked it out. Was me being a dope!
Update to come tomorrow eve. Parts are here too :y
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Rear oil seal changed
nylon bush and spigot bearing fitted
flywheel and clutch kit fitted
gear lever assembly fitted and all sorted inside car
gearbox fitted
All with rain running down my neck.
Sorry for brief update, pub is calling...
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All done, aside of reverse light wiring: car is running
Well where do I start..
WOW
It's an animal. Easily in the licence looser category! Really is an angry beast, drives great.
On the downside
the gearbox has got quite a prominent whine. Especially in first three gears...
Can someone confirm what oil type and amount goes in a manual box?
Thought I had a load in the shed but I don't...
Will try an oil change in the box, but I suspect it's knackered, and I'll have to change it next week :(
cheers :y
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Excellent news James, well done mate.... Good effort :y
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Right, now you've done that I've got a list of jobs ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Grabs hat and runs off into the distance ::)
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All done, aside of reverse light wiring: car is running
Well where do I start..
WOW
It's an animal. Easily in the licence looser category! Really is an angry beast, drives great.
On the downside
the gearbox has got quite a prominent whine. Especially in first three gears...
Can someone confirm what oil type and amount goes in a manual box?
Thought I had a load in the shed but I don't...
Will try an oil change in the box, but I suspect it's knackered, and I'll have to change it next week :(
cheers :y
Good fully synth or VX own, part #93165290 app. 1.6 ltrs, so if using VX, 2 bottles
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thanks rob :y
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Well done James ;) :y
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All done, aside of reverse light wiring: car is running
Well where do I start..
WOW
It's an animal. Easily in the licence looser category! Really is an angry beast, drives great.
On the downside
the gearbox has got quite a prominent whine. Especially in first three gears...
Can someone confirm what oil type and amount goes in a manual box?
Thought I had a load in the shed but I don't...
Will try an oil change in the box, but I suspect it's knackered, and I'll have to change it next week :(
cheers :y
Bloody hell, can someone get this man a decent gearbox??? ;D
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Shame about the whine, but top work mate :y.
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All done, aside of reverse light wiring: car is running
Well where do I start..
WOW
It's an animal. Easily in the licence looser category! Really is an angry beast, drives great.
On the downside
the gearbox has got quite a prominent whine. Especially in first three gears...
Can someone confirm what oil type and amount goes in a manual box?
Thought I had a load in the shed but I don't...
Will try an oil change in the box, but I suspect it's knackered, and I'll have to change it next week :(
cheers :y
you dont have luck at all :-[
if you want I can swap my box for your with out any cost if you collect from me :y :y
btw
its that box from Robsey??
if so I dont think hi would sold knackred box to you any way
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Sure it's not the DMF you hear, they do this, different sound to the auto's this might be the whine.
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not doubting robsey for one min guys please dont think that... These things happen!
I will change the box oil and ensure at correct level, drive it a bit and suck it and see :y
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What mileage has your diff done? Autos deal with the torque differently, so giving it large without letting the set up bed in will highlight any weaknesses already present in the driveline :-\
Couple of further qs: did you fit the box single handed? Easy enough to put a load the input shaft, bending it slightly :-\ also did you check the level before firing it up :-\
Good effort BTW :y bout bloody time though ::)
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yep fitted single handed, but nothing was forced, certianly not to point it would damage input shaft
yes, box had oil when fired up and driven... :D
:y
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Manual transmission oil :
EP80 CL4 original.. but after using it in winter , I decided Omegatoy was right .. 75W90 transmission oil better.. :y
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Manual transmission oil :
EP80 CL4 original.. but after using it in winter , I decided Omegatoy was right .. 75W90 transmission oil better.. :y
:y :y :y
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OK, Now you've done one when are you going to convert mine?? I have all the parts!! and I'm in Gloucester & have a warm dry workshop to do it in!!!
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bedding in nicely, fresh vx oil seems to have made a big difference. Sooo much more drivable, the manual lets you use the torque so much better.....
I still need a gaitor and gearknob tho, seems like hens teeth.
Only made one mistake. I don't appear to have soundproofed the tunnel where it comes into the car, properly. Will have to revisit that.
Drives a treat tho.
Jim, I think we should arrange a forum meet, and all attack yours in a day :y
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bedding in nicely, fresh vx oil seems to have made a big difference. Sooo much more drivable, the manual lets you use the torque so much better.....
I still need a gaitor and gearknob tho, seems like hens teeth.
Only made one mistake. I don't appear to have soundproofed the tunnel where it comes into the car, properly. Will have to revisit that.
Drives a treat tho.
Jim, I think we should arrange a forum meet, and all attack yours in a day :y
Sound Like A Plan To Me :y
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Ok, so I've now done 500 or so miles since converting to manual....
All in all, bedded in very well. Am used to clutch uptake and gear change - all good there.
The remaining niggles:
1) Need T2 to configure it as a manual, and remove TC light.
2) Sometimes if given a rev from idle, it will hold the revs at 1.5k for some time, before suddenly dropping to normal, after over revving for a minute or so. Have removed inlet, replaced all LPG plumbing, checked all vacc pipes, all good. Need to see MAF readings at idle to go further, and my KIT is fubar. No codes. This problem is worse on LPG (but aren't all problems)
3) got an annoying squeek from gearstick!
4) Seems to be a few flat spots when booting in second. But still stupldly powerful. Wonder if this is because ECU needs telling it's not an auto anymore.
5) The mid range good condition tyres I have on the back, are no good for a 3.2 manual. Premuim tyres ONLY on this combo.
6) If I was being REALLY picky, probably a small amount of play in the drivetrain
7) The box does like to whine in the lower gears. Even SWMBO is making sarcastic digs about hearing the gearbox over the radio! Maybe if I get a really nice day and am at a loose end (yeah right!) I'll pop the other manual box on there I have in the shed!
That's about it!
Other than, I STILL need a gaitor, and original gear knob, to replace the, er, "alternative" silver one!
Do I regret it? Not at all! As before it's soooo much more usable than an auto.
I overtook a car on an A road the other day, and the plank gave it all he had in his Golf to try and stop me getting past. >:( The ten year old 3.2 ate it for breakfast 8) (making him look a little silly in front of his Barbie!)
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Ok, so I've now done 500 or so miles since converting to manual....
All in all, bedded in very well. Am used to clutch uptake and gear change - all good there.
The remaining niggles:
1) Need T2 to configure it as a manual, and remove TC light.
2) Sometimes if given a rev from idle, it will hold the revs at 1.5k for some time, before suddenly dropping to normal, after over revving for a minute or so. Have removed inlet, replaced all LPG plumbing, checked all vacc pipes, all good. Need to see MAF readings at idle to go further, and my KIT is fubar. No codes. This problem is worse on LPG (but aren't all problems)
3) got an annoying squeek from gearstick!
4) Seems to be a few flat spots when booting in second. But still stupldly powerful. Wonder if this is because ECU needs telling it's not an auto anymore.
5) The mid range good condition tyres I have on the back, are no good for a 3.2 manual. Premuim tyres ONLY on this combo.
6) If I was being REALLY picky, probably a small amount of play in the drivetrain
7) The box does like to whine in the lower gears. Even SWMBO is making sarcastic digs about hearing the gearbox over the radio! Maybe if I get a really nice day and am at a loose end (yeah right!) I'll pop the other manual box on there I have in the shed!
That's about it!
Other than, I STILL need a gaitor, and original gear knob, to replace the, er, "alternative" silver one!
Do I regret it? Not at all! As before it's soooo much more usable than an auto.
I overtook a car on an A road the other day, and the plank gave it all he had in his Golf to try and stop me getting past. >:( The ten year old 3.2 ate it for breakfast 8) (making him look a little silly in front of his Barbie!)
I hate it so much when people do that, I had some idiot in a Corsa SRi pull out in front of me and start doing 15mph in a 40 trying to be a clown in front of his mates, I dropped the box into 2nd and overtake, the idiot then tries to stop me overtaking also swerving towards me to try and stop me, he ended up looking a fool when he couldn't catch me, people really underestimate the V6 Omega in manual form.
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"I overtook a car on an A road the other day, and the plank gave it all he had in his Golf to try and stop me getting past. The ten year old 3.2 ate it for breakfast (making him look a little silly in front of his Barbie!)"
i like it. ;D ;D
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Ok, so I've now done 500 or so miles since converting to manual....
All in all, bedded in very well. Am used to clutch uptake and gear change - all good there.
The remaining niggles:
1) Need T2 to configure it as a manual, and remove TC light.
2) Sometimes if given a rev from idle, it will hold the revs at 1.5k for some time, before suddenly dropping to normal, after over revving for a minute or so. Have removed inlet, replaced all LPG plumbing, checked all vacc pipes, all good. Need to see MAF readings at idle to go further, and my KIT is fubar. No codes. This problem is worse on LPG (but aren't all problems)
3) got an annoying squeek from gearstick!
4) Seems to be a few flat spots when booting in second. But still stupldly powerful. Wonder if this is because ECU needs telling it's not an auto anymore.
5) The mid range good condition tyres I have on the back, are no good for a 3.2 manual. Premuim tyres ONLY on this combo.
6) If I was being REALLY picky, probably a small amount of play in the drivetrain
7) The box does like to whine in the lower gears. Even SWMBO is making sarcastic digs about hearing the gearbox over the radio! Maybe if I get a really nice day and am at a loose end (yeah right!) I'll pop the other manual box on there I have in the shed!
That's about it!
Other than, I STILL need a gaitor, and original gear knob, to replace the, er, "alternative" silver one!
Do I regret it? Not at all! As before it's soooo much more usable than an auto.
I overtook a car on an A road the other day, and the plank gave it all he had in his Golf to try and stop me getting past. >:( The ten year old 3.2 ate it for breakfast 8) (making him look a little silly in front of his Barbie!)
I hate it so much when people do that, I had some idiot in a Corsa SRi pull out in front of me and start doing 15mph in a 40 trying to be a clown in front of his mates, I dropped the box into 2nd and overtake, the idiot then tries to stop me overtaking also swerving towards me to try and stop me, he ended up looking a fool when he couldn't catch me, people really underestimate the V6 Omega in manual form.
They really do, oh I miss mine :'( :'(.
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The idle settling issue might be an ECU config thing.
Can't remember if there's a clutch switch to do idle control. Guess not, as it's normally an addition when you add cruise control, so very likely the idle strategy is dependent on ECU config.
I have also seen a faulty MAF do this. On a 2.6, of course, but.... ::)
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The idle settling issue might be an ECU config thing.
Can't remember if there's a clutch switch to do idle control. Guess not, as it's normally an addition when you add cruise control, so very likely the idle strategy is dependent on ECU config.
I have also seen a faulty MAF do this. On a 2.6, of course, but.... ::)
My thoughts too Kev...
I'll pop over and see you one evening when you're around. Absolutely no rush whatsoever :y
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Ok, so I've now done 500 or so miles since converting to manual....
All in all, bedded in very well. Am used to clutch uptake and gear change - all good there.
The remaining niggles:
1) Need T2 to configure it as a manual, and remove TC light.
2) Sometimes if given a rev from idle, it will hold the revs at 1.5k for some time, before suddenly dropping to normal, after over revving for a minute or so. Have removed inlet, replaced all LPG plumbing, checked all vacc pipes, all good. Need to see MAF readings at idle to go further, and my KIT is fubar. No codes. This problem is worse on LPG (but aren't all problems)
3) got an annoying squeek from gearstick!
4) Seems to be a few flat spots when booting in second. But still stupldly powerful. Wonder if this is because ECU needs telling it's not an auto anymore.
after the manual conversion at 1 point , ecu tries to withdraw the fuel, but hammering continously for months ECU learned what must be done ;D the only time it cuts the fuel now is rpm limiter :)
5) The mid range good condition tyres I have on the back, are no good for a 3.2 manual. Premuim tyres ONLY on this combo.
brand new eagle f1 225 can hardly cope with 2.5 manual.. when 4 year old potenzas were on, during gear changes at full throttle from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 car always had spin for a while .. old tires have no chance with 3.2 manual..
6) If I was being REALLY picky, probably a small amount of play in the drivetrain
mine also does this
7) The box does like to whine in the lower gears. Even SWMBO is making sarcastic digs about hearing the gearbox over the radio! Maybe if I get a really nice day and am at a loose end (yeah right!) I'll pop the other manual box on there I have in the shed!
yep.. most manual do as they are continously hammered.. I think 1 and 2 nd gear must be changed..
That's about it!
Other than, I STILL need a gaitor, and original gear knob, to replace the, er, "alternative" silver one!
Do I regret it? Not at all! As before it's soooo much more usable than an auto.
I overtook a car on an A road the other day, and the plank gave it all he had in his Golf to try and stop me getting past. >:( The ten year old 3.2 ate it for breakfast 8) (making him look a little silly in front of his Barbie!)
:y
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Glad you're having fun with it :y disagree with point 5 though :-\ I normally use Runway Enduros which I find to be a really grippy tyre, even in snow, if a bit noisy. Even when pulling hard out of a tight bend in second I almost never see the traction control light ::) however currently have Autogrips fitted, due to supply issues, and the light is hardly ever off :-\ the Duruns fitted at the front aquaplane really badly, something the Runways never did, so will be adding them to the avoid list as well.
Incidently all of the above are less than £65 fitted, Goodyears are maybe £35 more each and don't last any longer. :-\
With regard to point 7, mine is the original box using its original fluid, and having done over 220k still whines no more or less than it did when I first got it. You will also find that it really doesn't like snatched changes :y