Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: OpelJay on 04 July 2012, 19:13:57
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HI, can anyone help me ive been having some trouble with my EML coming on and off at random times...
Theres no real issue with the car perhaps maybe running a bit sluggish? tried the normal stuff cleaning checking connecters..?
I took it upon my self to do a paper clip test but getting some confusing results. Id be great full of any help :(
6 / 9 / 10
10/ 1 / 3 / 10
10/ 5 /10 / 5
10 / 1 / 1 / 9
10 / 2 / 10 / 1
10 / 2 / 10 / 2
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Can you double check the codes, wondering if there is a misread in there :)
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1 6 9 10 thats the first one
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i think the 10 is a 0?
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2.0 error codes are here .... (4 digit ones as you list .. older ones have 2 digit codes )
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90583.0
HTH
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2.0 error codes are here .... (4 digit ones as you list .. older ones have 2 digit codes )
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90583.0
HTH
what do they mean???
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2.0 error codes are here .... (4 digit ones as you list .. older ones have 2 digit codes )
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90583.0
HTH
what do they mean???
The code number tells you the fault as read from that list, ignoring the "P" ........ so you look up 1690 and it tells you the possible fault(s) ....
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could i get most of these faults due to a faulty battery? ive just put new one on???
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how do i clear the ecu? then run for a day see what faults throw up?
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:( hello?
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how do i clear the ecu? then run for a day see what faults throw up?
to do that you will need a code reader
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i tought there was a way to do it with out computer?
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If it was the battery and that has been replaced then after a few clean starts the faults will be cleared on its own. The only other way is with a code reader.
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the new battery has helped but i still get a eml come up i drove the car for a hour like and it was fine soon as i was idling the eml come on so ive took the time to by a brand new idle control valve and a throttle position sensor hope this will help
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put new idle control valve on still no difference car ant running very well and seems when you press the cluch in and start to role revs stay at 1500 - 2000 then when you completely stop they settle back to normal??? could it be the TPS?
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HI, can anyone help me ive been having some trouble with my EML coming on and off at random times...
Theres no real issue with the car perhaps maybe running a bit sluggish? and the revs stay up at 1500 - 2000 then goes back to normal when at a complete stop... tried all the normal stuff cleaning checking connecters..?
I took it upon my self to do a paper clip test but getting some confusing results. ive just put a new idle control valve and waiting for a new TPS sensor, Id be great full of any help :(
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Need to get all the codes cleared and start again
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cant clear the codes dont have a reader
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Put new idle control valve on and new TPS senser still no change checked codes again and this is what im getting :(
1/6/9/0
0/1/3/0
0/2/0/1
0/2/0/2
0/2/0/3
0/2/0/4
1/6/9/0
please someone help ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh
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Random part changing is clouding things. Those codes need to be cleared. Sorry.
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codes clear after a while and no point clearing if the same codes are gonna keep flaging up???
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codes clear after a while and no point clearing if the same codes are gonna keep flaging up???
has there been a time since you've been investigating this that you've had no codes? ;)
the codes you have seem to imply an electrical connection issue with the injectors. Assuming this in not an lpg car, thats what I'd concentrate on. Actually, I'd clear the codes first though ;D
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er yer it all seemed ok before i give it the mechanic i asked him to do rocker cover gasket and clean out all the inlet cause was gunked out since that the engine management light has bin goin mad, the only physical problem with the car is seems the revs stay at 2000 and sometimes drop like if i lift the clutch up in gear to help bring them down i will try and get the codes cleared today also i have a engine temp sensor on the way cause i noticed it gets worse as the car gets up to temp plus a fuel pump relay? :-\
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and yes it is Gas - LPG :D
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and yes it is Gas - LPG :D
Ah, crap. That implies (given the codes) that its got not injector emulator. Would I be right in saying its a mixer system, rather than a sequential LPG system?
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So what do I do? Tyred fuel relay today no good and I've got engine temp sensor as well to fit still no good :( really don't know what to do?
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What is it like purely on petrol. Lets see if we can prove it down to the petrol or lpg systems.
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The car runs on petrol but can switch over to gas I'm have in some dramers with the gas as well at the moment as well but I put that down to it needs a new gas filter
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The car runs on petrol but can switch over to gas I'm have in some dramers with the gas as well at the moment as well but I put that down to it needs a new gas filter
OK, so its a gas related problem, nothing to do with the petrol ECU etc.
I'm not a LPG expert, so I'll bow out now, but it would be worth posting up what system it is, and if its sequential or mixer (guessing later, as the codes suggest no injector emulator)
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If this is the case then why am I havin the problem when it's on the petrol not gas although I do have a problem on gas? I need to clear the codes really can't do anything till Monday my car is a Omega B 2000 reg 2.0 litre the facelift model if that helps
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Errr, I thought you said it ran OK on petrol?
Reset the codes, reset the trims, and run purely on petrol for a tank, and see whats what then.
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I have 2 problems I will clear the codes then run on only fuel
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I have an M reg 1995 2000 X20SE 8 valve
I've done the paper clip test once so dont consider myself an expert but:
If you look up P 1690 it gives - "Telltale (Check Light) Voltage High"
That to me could mean the battery is not stabalising the electrical systems voltage.
Changing the battery probably has solved it but:
I know a bit about electrics so:
It is a duff battery as you suspected or
You will get the same result if the connecting terminals to the battery are not making good contact or are in a bad way. That is they have gone high resistance.
1.) I'd clean until shiny the insides of the connecting clamps. Use emery or sand paper wrapped around a bit of dowel.
If they are clean then with battery disconnected:
2.) check the earthed lead is well connected to the car chassis and has not come lose. Or the point of contact hasn't gone rusty. If so clean it up, greese it and re-connect firmly.
If not that then:
3.) Check for high resistance from the chassis to the battery terminal. It should of course be near to zero ohms. Say 1 ohm or there abouts. If it's high change the lead.
If not that then:
4.) Check for a high resistance from the fuse box to the other battery terminal. Again about 1 ohm max.
I thought if you left the battery disconnected for about 5 mins the fault codes re-set themselves?
If after all this you are still getting the light up I'd re-run the paper clip test and perhaps post the results?
Hope this helps.
Bob.
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I have an M reg 1995 2000 X20SE 8 valve
I've done the paper clip test once so dont consider myself an expert but:
If you look up P 1690 it gives - "Telltale (Check Light) Voltage High"
That to me could mean the battery is not stabalising the electrical systems voltage.
Changing the battery probably has solved it but:
I know a bit about electrics so:
It is a duff battery as you suspected or
You will get the same result if the connecting terminals to the battery are not making good contact or are in a bad way. That is they have gone high resistance.
1.) I'd clean until shiny the insides of the connecting clamps. Use emery or sand paper wrapped around a bit of dowel.
If they are clean then with battery disconnected:
2.) check the earthed lead is well connected to the car chassis and has not come lose. Or the point of contact hasn't gone rusty. If so clean it up, greese it and re-connect firmly.
If not that then:
3.) Check for high resistance from the chassis to the battery terminal. It should of course be near to zero ohms. Say 1 ohm or there abouts. If it's high change the lead.
If not that then:
4.) Check for a high resistance from the fuse box to the other battery terminal. Again about 1 ohm max.
I thought if you left the battery disconnected for about 5 mins the fault codes re-set themselves?
If after all this you are still getting the light up I'd re-run the paper clip test and perhaps post the results?
Hope this helps.
Bob.
1690 can be ignored. Just ensure the battery is charging correctly.
1690 is often caused by someone removing EML bulb (or it blowing) at some point.
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yes telltail is one of the codes i get i did have a faulty battery but has now been replaced with a new battery ive been told the only way to get the codes off is to basicly go up the garage and clear the fault so perhaps if i get them cleared monday ill run it only on petrol for a bit then see what codes get throwed up the run on gas and see what extra codes come up?? thanks for your feed back guys its much appreciated :)
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Garages are a joke in germany they want 20 - 25 euros just to clear the faults so ive placed a bid on ebay for the stuff to do it my self i also went to replace the engine temp sensor for the ecu after grafting to get it off and lose half me water soon to realise i was sent out the wrong sensor lol also ive been told the problem with it on petrol could be the air mass meter?
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ok some good news some bad... the gas problem has been fixed after it was a broken vacuum after fixing and clearing the codes car runs fine on the gas -lpg... however although the car seems to be alot better the revs do stay up still sometimes its ok sometimes its not for example driving along at 3000 revs put the clutch in and it stays there or goes up a bit more seems very strange any idea's please?