Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: I_want_an_Omega on 16 July 2012, 09:31:38
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I've decided to have a go at a couple of rust scabs. I've never attempted any bodywork before so would appreciate comments on the way I'm thinking of doing it .............
1 ) Remove flaked rust with wire brush (wheel on drill) & coarse sandpaper
2 ) Coat area with rust converter - follow instructions & clean off after 24 hours or so
3 ) Spray area with etch primer
4 ) Fill as necessary using automotive filler (Isopon?)
5 ) Sand down using wet & dry until required result
6 ) Spray with primer - but use etch primer if any bare metal exposed
7 ) Spray with colour coat - lots of fine coats
8 ) Spray with lacquer
If I have any of this wrong or am doing it in the wrong order then please advise.
Are smallish cans of colour coat from Vx the only way to buy paint in a spray can. I'm not going to need a lot, but the spray cans are expensive and quire small. I only have a small area to do on the Omega, but some larger areas on Daughters Corsa and can see me getting through quite a few cans.
Thanks guys ................ Rob
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You seem to have all the process in order , i have similar to do on the omega but until it gets warmer feel its a waste of time doing with damp in the air ...dam weather :(
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You seem to have all the process in order , i have similar to do on the omega but until it gets warmer feel its a waste of time doing with damp in the air ...dam weather :(
Thanks - just want to get the bits in place for when we have a few nice days.
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You seem to have all the process in order , i have similar to do on the omega but until it gets warmer feel its a waste of time doing with damp in the air ...dam weather :(
Thanks - just want to get the bits in place for when we have a few nice days.
Thats right , ive had all the similar stuff that you have mentioned for a few months now ...i did tidy most of the scabs up early in the year but have come through again due to the conditions i made the repairs ie damp . I might even cut the rot out this time :y
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If the metal has just been slightly pitted by the corrosion you may find it easier to use filler primer rather than body filler.It can be a frustrating and time consuming job trying to sand body filler to blend in and not leave a line around its outer edge.
Ive always found that getting a local refinishing supplier to mix up aerosols from the paint code gives much better results than off the shelf rattle cans.
Plenty of light coats (with the primer as well as the colour) rather than 1 or 2 thickish coats is as you say the best way,although go in closer for your final coat to get a nice even shiny finish which doesnt need much flatting down once its dried.
Im no expert mind,just going by my own mistakes and experience. :y
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just to remind one important point.. after every coating (be it primer or paint) the -dried- surface must be sanded with at least 800 grid (and not less than) :y
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Take car to local reputable body shop
Point to bits you require sorting
Collect car at later date
Hand over folding stuff! :y :y :y
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just to remind one important point.. after every coating (be it primer or paint) the -dried- surface must be sanded with at least 800 grid (and not less than) :y
Excuse my stupidty, but why do you rub down between coats? ???
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Take car to local reputable body shop
Point to bits you require sorting
Collect car at later date
Hand over folding stuff! :y :y :y
Ha ha - that would be my ideal solution as well I must admit. However at the moment I have ample time on my hands and a distinct shortage of funds, so I thought I'd have a go myself. The worst that can happen is that I get the job done by a proper man afterwards (when I can afford it) and have wasted a few hours and a few quid in the process.
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just to remind one important point.. after every coating (be it primer or paint) the -dried- surface must be sanded with at least 800 grid (and not less than) :y
Excuse my stupidty, but why do you rub down between coats? ???
For a key surface for the next coat and a smoother finish "i think" :-\
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That means it gives the next coat a "rougher" surface to adhere to then?
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That means it gives the next coat a "rougher" surface to adhere to then?
I think so and then towards the final coats you use a finer grade wet & dry so super smooth , sure someone will correct if wrong :y
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That means it gives the next coat a "rougher" surface to adhere to then?
I think so and then towards the final coats you use a finer grade wet & dry so super smooth , sure someone will correct if wrong :y
Makes sense, cheers for that EMD :y
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:y
P.s its a monsoon here now ::) , that just us talking about getting out and sorting the car in the sun . Hopefully august will be better for some prep work ;)
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Take car to local reputable body shop
Point to bits you require sorting
Collect car at later date
Hand over folding stuff! :y :y :y
That's my way to,you know it will done properly... :y
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just to remind one important point.. after every coating (be it primer or paint) the -dried- surface must be sanded with at least 800 grid (and not less than) :y
Excuse my stupidty, but why do you rub down between coats? ???
For a key surface for the next coat and a smoother finish "i think" :-\
yep.. for the covering coat -whatever it is- the surface must have "tiny channels" or tiny scratches that it can hold..
normally , there is no sanding between final paint layer and laquer layer as the laquer is applied on partially wet surface..
but if you want an extraordinary good paint
(for a stronger and deep looking paint ) - although factories dont use - method of using an initial -preparation- paint layer is a good practice.. also if you are painting on bare metal surface, both metal surface and primary coat must be sanded..
and forgot to add.. for a smoother finish is the second reason.. generally the coated surface will not be glassy instead will be like orange surface.. there are several reasons for that.. first one being lower cabin temperature.. second low solvent percentage (this technique is used by painters to prevent paint flow) .. and finally spray gun.. but even in best paint methods there wont be a perfect surface.. also even sanding final laquer will give better quality.. but its labour intensive :-\
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:y
P.s its a monsoon here now ::) , that just us talking about getting out and sorting the car in the sun . Hopefully august will be better for some prep work ;)
better be,got a weeks camping in cornwall planned ::) ;)
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In general terms your procedures ok mate - include flatting between coats as suggested by cem.
One important point before starting any spraying - thoroughly clean whole panel to remove any traces of polish and traffic film - I always use a good quality cutting compound for this! It helps to allow the new paint to blend in with the old and makes removal of any overspray easy if only spraying in a small area. HTH
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Thanks for the feedback guys - much appreciated.
Everything I need has either arrived or has been ordered. For the paint I used a very helpful site, spoke to the guys there who also gave me a few tips which saved a few quid. :y
www.paints4u.com (http://www.paints4u.com)
Just have to wait for the inclination and some decent weather - so who knws when that will be ::)
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Dont forget to tack rag off the surface as well before each coat :y
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and we forgot the most important point.. before starting paint , play with the gun and wide open the angle and try on some test surface on different angles.. your hand must move at a constant rate and layers must overlap in small portions..or you may end up with a paint flow :y
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and we forgot the most important point.. before starting paint , play with the gun and wide open the angle and try on some test surface on different angles.. your hand must move at a constant rate and layers must overlap in small portions..or you may end up with a paint flow :y
Think the ops using rattle cans cem ;)
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and we forgot the most important point.. before starting paint , play with the gun and wide open the angle and try on some test surface on different angles.. your hand must move at a constant rate and layers must overlap in small portions..or you may end up with a paint flow :y
Think the ops using rattle cans cem ;)
just in case :) :y
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and we forgot the most important point.. before starting paint , play with the gun and wide open the angle and try on some test surface on different angles.. your hand must move at a constant rate and layers must overlap in small portions..or you may end up with a paint flow :y
Think the ops using rattle cans cem ;)
Indeed I am - but thanks for the thought.