Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: swordfish on 20 September 2012, 07:24:29
-
how do you fit new front pads and discs at the same time. :-[ i have pushed piston right back but carnt get the calliper to go over the disc
cheers >:( >:(
-
Have you removed the bottom bolt and lifted the caliper up?
-
There is a guide in the maintenance section if this helps. Front Disc Change - WIP :y :y
-
Bottom bolt holding caliper to hub needs to be removed allowing the entire caliper to hinge up revealing the pads.Clamp off flexy hose and open bleed nipple,then push piston back into caliper allowing old fluid to exit nipple.
Ensure piston is fully back into caliper,then close off bleed nipple and fit new pads.When all back drop caliper will hinge back down and then replace bottom bolt..ensure it is fully torqued as per spec.Bleed brakes in normal fashion allowing fresh fluid to exit nipple.
-
Are we reading this correctly from Swordfish it sounds as if he wants to change disc and pads not just pads.
-
Need to remove the caliper frame, two bolts on the back of the knuckle :y
-
As above, the frame (which holds the pads) needs to be removed
-
Ah right. There are 2 18mm bolts holding the caliper carrier to the strut. You have to remove these and the caliper carrier then undo the 5mm allen key holding the disc to the hub
-
Also degrease the new discs, worth remembering for first few miles the brakes won't bite that well :)
-
Fellas i think he has done all the above but its the fact that the new pads and discs are thicker then the old ones and hes struggling to get the claiper to go back over.
have you made sure the cailiper piston is fully back you may think it is but actually its not.
i had the same issue with it on mine was a complete female dog ;D ;D
-
Always read the question ::) if you're unsure read it again and never post within ten minutes of waking up :-[
What Marie said :y
-
THANKS MARIE . i have changed many pads and discs before. but never both new caliper and new disc together they are very tight . ;D in the past i have been able to put new pads in without splitting the caliper. just remove caliper from hub and pop in the new pads . not so this time though ???
-
No worries.
as has been said before.
clamp the hose and open the bleed nipple.
just for the love of god becareful squezing the piston back you could possibly end up popping the seal if its not squezed back level ( i.e. dont just put the big gips on one side try and use the old pads accros the piston and squeze the middle :y :y
-
Ok, if the new parts don't fit then either there is a problem with the parts or you are doing something wrong. Have you compared new parts with old?
Can you explain step by step what you have done so far and where you are getting stuck? I am finding your posts quite hard to follow, and from some of the replies you are getting it seems other people are too. First you talk about discs and pads, then you mention new calipers too? What do you mean "splitting the caliper?"
Does the caliper bracket/pad carrier clear the new disc? If the caliper is actually stuck on the disc as you say in first post then there must be a problem with parts. If it just won't clear the pads then the pistons probably need pushing back further, they should sit flush with the caliper body not stick out at all if they are fully in. Is the piston stuck? Also, are the slides free?
Also, I (or we) have assumed we are talking fronts, but you don't say.
There are loads of knowledgable people on here, give us enough info and we'll try our best to help you sort it.
-
What a lot of confusion I would suggest that Swordfish starts again and says what he wants to do and what he has done up to now. I wish I was closer so that I could have a look this is normally a simple job.
-
Please read the guide, it has step by step instructions ;)
At the point you are putting in pads, the top caliper bolt should be in place, and caliper hinged up. Place pads in caliper mounting bracket (not caliper), and hinge it down.
If it doesn't fit, either you have wrong parts, of piston not it.
//Assumption = front brakes. If rear, are you sure the disks are same as old - vented or solid?
-
front discs . sorry they are not new calipers . just new discs and pads. the piston is right back the pads are flush with the carriers . so should slot over the discs right :y well they wont .
-
Push the bottom slider in where the bolt goes in to
-
Are the discs and pads GM/TC/after market or otherwise. With the pads in place, the caliper should just swing down over them with a small amount of jiggling on the sliders.. Have you done simple maths and measured the disc thickness and pad thickness against standard. :-\ I don't mean that rudely by the way. :y Just trying to get a picture in my head of what's going on. :y
-
So is the width of the disc and pads bigger that the width of the caliper? If it is, and the piston is fully in, then there must be a problem with parts. If it isn't there must be something else stopping it going on... are the slide pins free throughout there full range of movement? If not they could be holding the caliper too far over to clear the outer pad? Can you actually see what is causing the obstruction?
Might be an idea to get someone else to have a look, you sound as if you understand the principles of how all this works, but best to play it safe when it comes to brakes.
-
Are the pads in the caliper or in the caliper mounting bracket.
Caliper pushed in fully.
Caliper bolted to caliper mounting bracket by its top bolt only, torqued to 30Nm, caliper rotated up as far as it will go.
Pads fitted to caliper mounting bracket.
Rotate caliper on its only fixing, over the pads.
Put in the 2nd caliper to caliper mounting bolt, torque to 30Nm.
If that doesn't work, you have a wrong part somewhere.
-
Can you confirm the caliper piston is retracted fully flush with the caliper?.... Or is it merely retracted/pushed back in as far as it will go? If the later then has the reservoir cap been removed to allow air and fluid to flow back up to the reservoir ? Because if the fluid is over filled for new pads and discs it will not allow the piston to retract fully. This may be causing your problem.
Hence it's recommended to open the bleed nipple on the caliper to allow the excess fluid to escape "AS" the piston is pushed back then immediately nipped up to stop air getting in.
If piston is fully home in the caliper then can only presume wrong parts.
A pic perhaps?