Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: GrpB Tom on 03 November 2012, 14:32:16
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Have discovered my battery is dead - 2volts. Was tip top last night when parked up. Dicky alternator?
Also alarm has been going off when I get into the car. Have to step out and lock the car for it to go off. Doesn't happen all the time though. Very odd. Clearly an electrical issue.
Has anyone suffered similar problems?
Thinking alternator might be the source for both.
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Have discovered my battery is dead - 2volts. Was tip top last night when parked up. Dicky alternator?
Also alarm has been going off when I get into the car. Have to step out and lock the car for it to go off. Doesn't happen all the time though. Very odd. Clearly an electrical issue.
Has anyone suffered similar problems?
Thinking alternator might be the source for both.
Try removing the powersounder, may well be cause of battery problems.
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Glovebox light or as rob says, powersounder ?? but tbh if your loseing 10 volts overnight, either your batterys totaly knackerd or you have a big short to earth somewhere.
Alternator regulator is a good place to start.
Is the alternator charging ok ?
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Testing alternator http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90619.0
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Battery is two years old so should be ok. This is the second time it has been charged from dead. I will go through the process and report back.
Where is the power sounder located and how do you turn it off? Fuse?
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Battery is two years old so should be ok. This is the second time it has been charged from dead. I will go through the process and report back.
Where is the power sounder located and how do you turn it off? Fuse?
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90675.0
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No fuse for the sounder.
Feed comes from the ecu loom iirc
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May be a silly question but did you check the parking lights didn't get left on? Easy to do on pre facelift migs just by leaving the indicator stalk up or down when pulling the key. However your 3.2 elite should warn you I think. Mind you it shouldn't completely flatten a battery overnight anyway, nor would the glove box or boot light.
Standard batteries don't survive very many complete drains.
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It beeps when the indicator switch is on so have discounted that. This is only the 2nd time it has happened. have left the car for over a week and it started 1st time. Its clear the fault is intermittant. What would be the likley suspect? Alt reg top of my list..
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did you remove powersounder ? My old mig did that(flat battery) turned out to be faulty light switch-but it was a 94 p/f/lift
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Power sounder hasn't been removed. Was going to do the battery checks but its chucking down with rain at the moment. Of interest why would the power sounder drain a battery? If its live doesn't something sound? Keen to know the rationale behind remvoing the power sounder.
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Managed to get the tests done.
Results in numerical order as per the recommended test sequence.
3. 13v across terminals
4.11.4v engine off load applied (lights,front screen blower,rear demist,fog and heated seats)
5.dropped to 9-10v cranking no load
6. 13.7v at idle
7.Engine speed 2k rpm no load 14v
8. Loads added as before 12v
9.Increased rpm to 2k 13v
10. Positive terminal on battery very hot. Negative cool. Started to rain again postponed checking other earth points,etc
Looks like a duff battery and a dodgey + terminal.
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Managed to get the tests done.
Results in numerical order as per the recommended test sequence.
3. 13v across terminals
4.11.4v engine off load applied (lights,front screen blower,rear demist,fog and heated seats)
5.dropped to 9-10v cranking no load
6. 13.7v at idle
7.Engine speed 2k rpm no load 14v
8. Loads added as before 12v
9.Increased rpm to 2k 13v
10. Positive terminal on battery very hot. Negative cool. Started to rain again postponed checking other earth points,etc
Looks like a duff battery and a dodgey + terminal.
Crimping at cable end to battery dodgy
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Managed to get the tests done.
Results in numerical order as per the recommended test sequence.
3. 13v across terminals
4.11.4v engine off load applied (lights,front screen blower,rear demist,fog and heated seats)
5.dropped to 9-10v cranking no load
6. 13.7v at idle
7.Engine speed 2k rpm no load 14v
8. Loads added as before 12v
9.Increased rpm to 2k 13v
10. Positive terminal on battery very hot. Negative cool. Started to rain again postponed checking other earth points,etc
Looks like a duff battery and a dodgey + terminal.
Crimping at cable end to battery dodgy
Agreed. Fix that first before worrying about the battery. It's probably just discharged due to the poor charging voltage it's been receiving.
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Managed to get the tests done.
Results in numerical order as per the recommended test sequence.
3. 13v across terminals
4.11.4v engine off load applied (lights,front screen blower,rear demist,fog and heated seats)
5.dropped to 9-10v cranking no load
6. 13.7v at idle
7.Engine speed 2k rpm no load 14v
8. Loads added as before 12v
9.Increased rpm to 2k 13v
10. Positive terminal on battery very hot. Negative cool. Started to rain again postponed checking other earth points,etc
Looks like a duff battery and a dodgey + terminal.
Crimping at cable end to battery dodgy
Agreed. Fix that first before worrying about the battery. It's probably just discharged due to the poor charging voltage it's been receiving.
Also agreed .. plus, as you will have to disconnect the battery to sort out the dodgy terminal, give the battery a 48 hour charge whilst off the car, this will ensure it gets a "full" charge and might well save it, however if it has been standing discharged for too long it may well be beyond redemption. Cost you nothing to try ..... :)
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yes connection shouldn't get hot like that. In fact your battery could be OK the symptoms may just be that connection (if you genuinely get a 2V reading on a battery off load then it is dead). If the battery is damaged some battery chargers have a 'recover' function which is a last resort - it whacks a lot of volts in (up to 16!) to fix sulphation. Sometimes works.