Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: ians on 28 April 2008, 17:09:21
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Intend to paint my new garage floor soon (concrete poured 2 months ago)
Does anyone have experience of this?
I was going to use a first coat diluted with white spirit, effectively as a primer, and then a second coat neat. I can't face all that work on hands and knees so I intend to get a roller extension with masonary sleeve.
Anyway - I'd much appreciate advice from anyone who has been there before.. :y
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Intend to paint my new garage floor soon (concrete poured 2 months ago)
Does anyone have experience of this?
I was going to use a first coat diluted with white spirit, effectively as a primer, and then a second coat neat. I can't face all that work on hands and knees so I intend to get a roller extension with masonary sleeve.
Anyway - I'd much appreciate advice from anyone who has been there before.. :y
Yes I once painted my garage floor with red floor paint by just following the advice on the tin. If I remember correctly the first coat I thinned, and then the second (final) coat was unthinned. It was all put on with a large brush, but I suppose a roller would do the job.
However, on new ( highly porous) concrete the first and second coats would be best thinned and then a final third coat unthinned on top.
In terms of thinning the paint with white spirit it does depend on wether or not the paint is oil or water based.
All the best with this very satisfying job :y ;)
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My gut feeling would be to PVA (purely for surface adhesion reasons) the bare concrete with a 'strong' solution with water and be sure to let it dry thoroughly before starting on the floor-paint.....experts will doubtless follow with opinions on it....`just what I`d probably do! ;)
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My first few thoughts are as follows:
1) 2 Months is not that long for a conrete slab to fully dry.
2) Use a stabilising solution first as this will help bind the as yet unproven concrete surface and help the paint adhere.
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I wouldnt go for a pva primer as its water based and the pait spirit based, a spirit based primer would be ok though.
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Lizzie is bang on. I know cos that's not what I did. I should've thinned the first coat as Lizzie said, but, as I didn't, it's now lifted in various places. :( ::)
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I woudn't use PVA as its good on plaster etc which is mega absorbent but, not nearly as effective on conrete plus PVA is not as stable as some may think!
As said, a specific stabilising solution such as:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/14511/Paint/Specialist-Paints/Stabilising-Solution-5Ltr;jsessionid=GNQD1BV1R4MHCCSTHZOSFFA
And use a roller, the finish is much better, easier to clean down and nicer to apply.
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Lizzie is bang on. I know cos that's not what I did. I should've thinned the first coat as Lizzie said, but, as I didn't, it's now lifted in various places. :( ::)
Thats more to do with the stability of the concrete base....you need to bind it because it will be dusty not matter how much you try to clean it up.
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TY all. The paint is spirit based (tin definitely says clean brushes with white spirit). I also know it says leave new concrete for 8 weeks. Don't want to be impatient but need to move stuff back in there.
I don't think (its at home) that it mentions priming/sealing/ dilute coat etc. I just remember last time I did this on a relatively new slab that the suction on the first coat was massive and the coverage was awful. (probably didn't stick that well either).
I'll check out Screwfix - there's one just up the road if needed.
Cheers,
Ian
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Previous owner painted my garage floor (no idea what he used) but if you park a wet car on it, the paint sticks to the tyres and gets pulled up when you subsequently move it.
I have no idea what or how it was applied in this case but the message has to be to make sure it's stuck to stable concrete and properly prepared.
Kevin
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if you look at the mainstream stuff you can buy at DIY stores you will find they recommend a sealer.
When i did mine i sealed it first (keep the garage well ventiliated) and then did the first coat watered down, the second and third were full strength.
I get the issue where i have to let the tyre cool before parking the car in there, if they are up to temp and i park the car in there it will life the paint >:(
it does tidy it up and makes it less dusty though
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A mate of mine did his with an epoxy based paint, IIRC. It was not cheap but it did last well. Then again, he also had plasterboard dry lining and coving in his garage... :o Coving FFS?
Kevin
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i have about 3000 white tiles to go up in the garage.....when i get the time
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chandelier too?
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according to my building regs approval I also need to redo the ceiling with f(*&*& expensive celotex insulation and plasterboard. (I'm converting what was a carport into proper garage - there is a room above , hence the insulation requirements.)
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according to my building regs approval I also need to redo the ceiling with f(*&*& expensive celotex insulation and plasterboard. (I'm converting what was a carport into proper garage - there is a room above , hence the insulation requirements.)
And two layers of plaster board to meet fire regs....plus any doors from the garage to the house must also be fire doors.
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I seem to remember that I painted about one quarter of my garage floor once - about 10 years ago when we moved in. There's now so much crap piled up in the garage that I don't even know which part I painted. Haven't seen the floor for years.
All the old furniture went in there in case the kids needed it when they set up their own homes. In the event, they wouldn't touch the stuff with a 14 foot pole.
I've never managed to fit a car into any garage I ever owned.
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5 years ago i had 3 garages,now i havent got one :'(
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according to my building regs approval I also need to redo the ceiling with f(*&*& expensive celotex insulation and plasterboard. (I'm converting what was a carport into proper garage - there is a room above , hence the insulation requirements.)
Check out Fleabay. There is a company (seconds and co?) that sell slightly damaged sheets of celotex/kingspan for good prices. I think they have a deal with the factory. I managed to get 15 sheets of 50mm insulation bonded to plasterboard for £30, plus £30 delivery !.
Ken
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Ians, before you do anything, imho the floor will not be dry yet! Ideally, you need to wait anything up to 6 months for it to fully dry. I work for chain of family owned decorators merchants covering the south of England and we get asked this every day it seems.
Firstly, if you have 'floated' the floor, ie made it smooth, you'll need to either use a adhesion primer first or acid etch/scarify the surface so the paint has something to stick too. Then after that, your first coat if you use a single pack product, should be thinned 10% by volume with (clean)white spirit if you use a solvent product or the same by (clean) water if water-bourne. Followed up by 1 or 2 full coats leaving each coat to dry as per the instructions on the can! Bear in mind that you will need to not use the floor for upto 7 days after the final coat to let the paint fully cure, this will ensure you get the maximum lifespan from the product. :y To apply the paint a quality roller will make it easy and a new one for each coat is advised.
I notice that you're in Reading, we have a branch in Maidenhead who'll give you good, solid guidance on what to do and what product will be ideal for what you need. Hope this helps? ;)
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this comes in handy when you need paint advice
dulux
http://www.duluxpaints.com/paintProducts.do?catalogId=12
richie
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;) over-priced and under-performing rubbish, that's my opinion of Dulux's
'specialist' paints! Some good info though. :y And after a quick look around that is Dulux US! ;D have a look here http://www.icipaints.co.uk/products/info/dulux_trade_floorshield.jsp
this is the sort of product I'd go for but not this one, pricey for what it is!