Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Sparks on 14 November 2012, 08:47:15
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Yet more problems with my beloved omega. Started car to come home from work yesterday evening and for 1st 5-10 seconds engine was misfiring but then was ok and no warning lights were on. Started car again this morning and engine misfiring with the car engine block warning light on so asitched off while I wiped mist off windows. Started engine again and misfiring for 5-10 seconds with same warning light on but then ran smoothly with light still on. After 3 miles stopped, switched engine off then on again running ok but light still on. repeated this twice more and on the second go warning light stayed off for rest of 10 mile journey. I would appreciate any feedback as to what the problem may be. Regards, Keith.
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I know it doesn't always work on 2.2 but have you tried the pedal trick for codes?
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No I haven't but I will look it up on here and give it a try if it is easy enough. Thanks for suggestion.
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The test itself is a gift, Keith, but it doesn't always work on that engine apparently.
If you could get some codes it would certainly help in identifying problems, and then the experts could step in and help you out :y
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Tried the pedal trick but unfortunately it didn't work so yesterday I took car to a guy who has a computer for reading faults and he said it was number 4 cylinder missfiring which can only be caused by a) spark plug, b) coil pack, or d) injector. The fault is only internittent and coil pack is less than 6 months old so i will try plugs first and let you know how I go on. Keith.
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Tried the pedal trick but unfortunately it didn't work so yesterday I took car to a guy who has a computer for reading faults and he said it was number 4 cylinder missfiring which can only be caused by a) spark plug, b) coil pack, or d) injector. The fault is only internittent and coil pack is less than 6 months old so i will try plugs first and let you know how I go on. Keith.
Keith, make sure the plug wells are dry of oil and especially water before trying to remove plugs matey! :y
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could even be a faulty spark plug....when were they last changed????
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Water in No4 is quite common on the 2.2
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Hi all and thanks for replies. Plugs were changed 18 months ago and I do less than 10,000 miles per year and rocker cover gasket was changed this summer so shouldnt be oil in plug wells. How would water get into plug wells in 1st place and out of curiosity which is no 4 cylinder, is it one nearest bulkhead or furthest away. regards, keith.
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#4 is nearest the windscreen on the 4 pot.
Water gets there by leaking through the "join" in the scuttle, if the foam under there is sodden, that's the leak. Some folks have success with bathroom type sealant along the join to prevent the leak.
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Thanks for that. will be having a look this weekend. Keith.
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My scuttle leak was like a tap pouring onto the coil pack, I sealed the scuttle joint with silicone and stuck some strips of denso tape across the joint underneath as well, dry as a bone now.
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My money is on the Coil pack, if you do have to replace only buy a Bosch, please do not waste your time on cheaper ones, been there that, done that....... :-[ :y :y
Just so that you are aware, this engine is prone to the head gasket going between cylinders 3 and 4........... ::) ::) ::)
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Took coil pack off yesterday and lo and behold oil in plug 4 well and a little bit in no 3 well although not as much as when the last
rocker cover went. One thing that does concern me is that last weekend I filled the water expansion tank to its normal level and when I had the
bonnet up this weekend I noticed it was completely empty so I am taking it to my mechanic Tuesday for him to test the oil with a solution that
turns a funny colour when water is present in the oil and I am keeping my fingers crossed it is not the head gasket. The car has only done 100,000
miles and is already on its 2nd head gasket. I will keep you informed. keith.
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Well its official. Head gasket has gone. Car worth about £700 and gasket replacement about £800 so no brainer. I am going to try steel seal which is supposed to be pretty good at sealing blown gaskets and if that doesnt work it will be the garage in the sky I am afraid. The car is already on its 2nd gasket
but it won't be getting a third. will let you know how I go on. Keith.
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would it not be cheaper to source a replacement engine??
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Hi Martin. I am not very good mechanically so would have to pay someone to fit engine so that cost plus cost of engine would still make it uneconomical which is a shame becuse I love the car and I have had it for about 9 years. Regards, Keith.
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£800 for a HG? :o :o :o
I know garages that will do it for £300. A competant mechanic can do it in a day :y
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Much less than a day for a four pot.
Your cam cover leak will have been due to either/both of the following:
1) Blocked breathers (mechanic should have cleaned them)
2) Pattern gasket
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Get it down to Aldershot in the New Year and i'll cost you much less than £800 :y
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I had the head gasket done about 7 years ago and cost was about £700. I will see if this sealant does any good. Keith.
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Put the sealant in yesterday but had to drain off water from the expansion tank 1st. Did as the instructions said on bottle but when i drive car now there is no hot air coming from heater. A friend told me I have probably drained off too much water and got an air lock in the system. Followed the instructions on this site for clearing airlock but no joy I am afraid. Drove car tonight and temp gauge going to over 3/4 whereas it never goes above 1/2 normally. Also notice there is a lot of condensation on the windscreen and now all dashboard lights have just gone off. I think I am gonna struggle to go to work in morning as it is a 20 mile journey. I am seriously thinking it is now time to get shut but I love the car but can't do with all this hassle. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Regards, keith.
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My guess is that the gung you put in the rad has blocked the heater matrix, try flushing the matrix on its own, ..............these quick fix treatments do more harm than good. there should be a sticky on this site to try to warm others of the danger.
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I will try flushing matrix this weekend but a friend has managed to clear some of the air by squeezing hoses and we are now
getting some heat but not as it should be. My friend has advised me to do the following after every journey.
When stopped leave engine running and slowly release expansion tank cap and when removed squeeze hoses and then turn off engine
and replace coolant and cap when engine has cooled down. I have done this about 4 times and with no significant improvement.
I wondered if the knowledgeable guys on this site agree with this method because some one has told me it could introduce air into the system.
I await some advise on how to proceed and thanks in advance. Regards, keith.
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When stopped leave engine running and slowly release expansion tank cap and when removed squeeze hoses and then turn off engine
and replace coolant and cap when engine has cooled down. I have done this about 4 times and with no significant improvement.
I wondered if the knowledgeable guys on this site agree with this method because some one has told me it could introduce air into the system. .....
I wouldn't. I can't see how that could help in any way ............ & besides, you're more likely to scald yourself than improve things on your car.
I don't think you have an airlock anyway ....... the car should self bleed any air in the system to the header tank quite quickly. I think you've got a blocked heater matrix. :-\
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Heater matrix flush and a compleat coolant change to get rid of the crap stuff you put in to CURE the head gaskit issue.. ::)
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Heater matrix flush and a compleat coolant change to get rid of the crap stuff you put in to CURE the head gaskit issue.. ::)
and that probably won't work .. that gunge put in is designed to go hard to seal the "leak" .. it has probably "thought" that all the little pipes in the matrix were small leaks and has "sealed" them....
my guess is a new matrix, and probably a new radiator in the near future as well .. :(
These "solutions" rely on the fact that a "leak" usually has a very slow liquid movement speed, all the small pipes in both the matrix and the rad also have slow liquid speeds, it is the sum total of all the pipes that gives the matrix/rad a decent flow rate .... the "seal" will try and solidify to stop the slow speed liquid movement ... permanently blocking the tiny pipes .... and no amount of flushing will move it once solidified.
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Not good then. :o
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Not good then. :o
All these "sealants/leak stoppers/rad welds etc etc" are rubbish and have no place in any garage .. if it's leaking it is faulty and needs rectifying ..not bodging
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Whilst wife was driving car it started running rough and smoke/steam coming out of exhaust so I can assume that the head gasket has gone completely now. Got someone to tow me home and cant contact mechanic to confirm cost of head gasket replacement due to holidays. Car sat out side now and looks great pity it doesn't bloody go. I think I will be cutting my losses and scrap it
which is a shame because I love it but there hasn't been a month go by this year without something going wrong and costing me money. Will let you know outcome. Regards, keith.
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#4 is nearest the windscreen on the 4 pot.
Water gets there by leaking through the "join" in the scuttle, if the foam under there is sodden, that's the leak. Some folks have success with bathroom type sealant along the join to prevent the leak.
That is exactly the problem I have with mine. The car has been mis-firing intermittently for the past few weeks and every week or so the engine management light comes on. Number 4 plug has been full of water and the foam under the scuttle is sodden, so even drying out the plug (which my brilliant local Vauxhall dealership have now done twice free of charge) doesn't cure it long-term. Do you know what causes the leak in the first place; is it just the age of the car?
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Do you know what causes the leak in the first place
Where the join is between the two scuttle sections predominantly, plus the holes for the wiper spindles.
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Nothing to do with the age of the car, just poor design :y
Although, I wonder if by mopping up free of charge, your dealer is accepting liability for this particular design fault :-\
Would love to know what Luton have to say about it when they get the warranty claim form ;D
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Nothing to do with the age of the car, just poor design :y
I've had the car over 3 years now and this hasn't happened before ???
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Nothing to do with the age of the car, just poor design :y
I've had the car over 3 years now and this hasn't happened before ???
Pure chance :y
If I were a betting man, I would lay a reasonable wedge on the HBV having been changed in the last 6 months...
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Nothing to do with the age of the car, just poor design :y
I've had the car over 3 years now and this hasn't happened before ???
Pure chance :y
If I were a betting man, I would lay a reasonable wedge on the HBV having been changed in the last 6 months...
Tell me what an HBV is and I'll let you know if you're right ;D
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Heater Bypass Valve, lives at the rear driver side corner of the engine. Looks like a black spaceship. Fail with monotonous regularity, ie every 4 years/100k :y
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Sorry to disappoint but that hasn't been replaced in the last six months. In fact I can't recall having it replaced since I bought the car - so that'll probably be the next thing to go! :y
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That's why I'm not a betting man ;D
At least you know what/where it is :y First port of call for mysterious coolant leaks :y
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Hi all. just go quote from mechanic for head gasket replacement.
Gasket and valve set..........£70.00
timing belt and pulleys........£83.00
Labour.............................£180.00
If head needs skimming extra £35.00
So I have decided to have work done I hope I don't regret it.
Wondered what others thought of these prices as it seems reasonable to me but I have been advised to have head skimmed regardless
Regards, keith.