Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Boggy on 18 November 2012, 19:01:42
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Hi guys,
Me again with the ongoing problem :-P
I Sorted the vacuum leak, twas the injector seals! anyway, I still have problems, Symes popped over to have a look and discovered a leaky exhaust! More on this in a Mo.
When the car starts it runs lumpy but then sometimes it can tick over nicely just over 500RPM's. Driving it, well, you can accelerate away and it will change gear fine but then it seems to hold back, not as bad as last week when it was like switching the ignition off and then back on whilst driving.
Now it just holds back usually around 2000RPMs. You can accelerate through it though but then it does it again, since last week, I havent used it on the main roads but it would go about 50MPH flat out! driven too hard it would bang and go into safe mode.
Now back to Symes, He checked all Electrical connections and cleaned up the Throttle body including a blocked breather pipe. Now, the exhaust is blowing on the bendy join after the CAT and I will be replacing the pipe, this will mean I have a new CAT and probably get new LAMBAs. I have been reading up on symptons of the CAT and it ticks many boxes, the bad running, high use of petrol, lacking power on hills (on the level in my case)
The EML is on, though I attempted to do the pedal trick but it did not work, however the EML went out, but the spanner light came on, this morning the EML came back on! I have a friend coming during the week with a machine capable of live readings. the pedal test as I say doesnt work nor does the paper clip test, Symes tried both. So, no codes as yet.
On the plus side, I'm not ready to scrap her yet :P
Your views?
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Hi guys,
Me again with the ongoing problem :-P
I Sorted the vacuum leak, twas the injector seals! anyway, I still have problems, Symes popped over to have a look and discovered a leaky exhaust! More on this in a Mo.
When the car starts it runs lumpy but then sometimes it can tick over nicely just over 500RPM's. Driving it, well, you can accelerate away and it will change gear fine but then it seems to hold back, not as bad as last week when it was like switching the ignition off and then back on whilst driving.
Now it just holds back usually around 2000RPMs. You can accelerate through it though but then it does it again, since last week, I havent used it on the main roads but it would go about 50MPH flat out! driven too hard it would bang and go into safe mode.
Now back to Symes, He checked all Electrical connections and cleaned up the Throttle body including a blocked breather pipe. Now, the exhaust is blowing on the bendy join after the CAT and I will be replacing the pipe, this will mean I have a new CAT and probably get new LAMBAs. I have been reading up on symptons of the CAT and it ticks many boxes, the bad running, high use of petrol, lacking power on hills (on the level in my case)
The EML is on, though I attempted to do the pedal trick but it did not work, however the EML went out, but the spanner light came on, this morning the EML came back on! I have a friend coming during the week with a machine capable of live readings. the pedal test as I say doesnt work nor does the paper clip test, Symes tried both. So, no codes as yet.
On the plus side, I'm not ready to scrap her yet :P
Your views?
New cat not needed unless you`re prepared to pay in excess of £250 for a genuine one from VX read this http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=109338.0
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The engines holding back-missfire-1250rpm=2000rpm ??? so come on somebody why cant do pedal test???? NOTHING HAPPENS If I didnt know better thought rither blow on flexi pipe or MAF fault--ANY IDEAS+Dont be shy you lot BOGGY need us to heeellllllpppppp :y :y
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The engines holding back-missfire-1250rpm=2000rpm ??? so come on somebody why cant do pedal test???? NOTHING HAPPENS If I didnt know better thought rither blow on flexi pipe or MAF fault--ANY IDEAS+Dont be shy you lot BOGGY need us to heeellllllpppppp :y :y
read that post wrongly ... edited :)
If he can get from Oxfords to Swindon I'll put the maxscan on it .. but he might be nearer TB ??
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ENTWOOD mine is v6 For once its fine :o :o BOGGY got 2.2 four pot dbw
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Bit iffy leaving street mate I drove it up road and back-no offence but she's not a happy miggy
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She's like an ex wife, after my money and won't do as I say :-(
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Pedal trick won`t work on yours. Disconnect MAF see if there`s any difference, but a code-read is a must
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As to why the pedal trick won't work ... answer in the first post ... :)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90581.0
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Oh yeah, I remember reading that now. Still, I have a friend coming to see the car on Thursday night equipped with a diagnostic machine that takes live readings, proper garage type, should shed some light :-D exhaust should be here for Saturday, lamba sensors pending
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Oh yeah, I remember reading that now. Still, I have a friend coming to see the car on Thursday night equipped with a diagnostic machine that takes live readings, proper garage type, should shed some light :-D exhaust should be here for Saturday, lamba sensors pending
If you mean the front downpipe with cat, hope it`s genuine VX
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Won't be genuine but if its not up to the job they can have it back! Failing that, I'll be onto trading standards!
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Won't be genuine but if its not up to the job they can have it back! Failing that, I'll be onto trading standards!
Spend your money on getting the flexi replaced
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Where from? What size?
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Against my better judgement but on your advice, I have ordered a new flex,just hope it's £15 I shouldn't have spent :-/ we shall see. It's 51 by 100mm as per another post on this matter
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Against my better judgement but on your advice, I have ordered a new flex,just hope it's £15 I shouldn't have spent :-/ we shall see. It's 51 by 100mm as per another post on this matter
Suggest you stick with your judgement then
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i meant i hope its not £15 I didn't need to spend.
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New flexi fitted today so the pipe I had on a return if not used policy can go back, borrowed a code reader OBD2 as my mate couldn't make it on Thursday, codes were 0340 and 0700, later was gearbox, Symes discovered a kinked pipe underneath so unkinked it and that hasn't set off the lights nor safe mode so far, the 0340 being a cam sensor issue now rings bells as I had similar symptoms on my gsxr600 so new sensor being ordered on Monday. Fingers crossed :-s
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New flexi fitted today so the pipe I had on a return if not used policy can go back, borrowed a code reader OBD2 as my mate couldn't make it on Thursday, codes were 0340 and 0700, later was gearbox, Symes discovered a kinked pipe underneath so unkinked it and that hasn't set off the lights nor safe mode so far, the 0340 being a cam sensor issue now rings bells as I had similar symptoms on my gsxr600 so new sensor being ordered on Monday. Fingers crossed :-s
Cheaper than a non genuine cat :y :y New cam sensor and job done then :y
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Annd you learnt what mig(co2) welding was about :y :y
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That's right Symes, though I drive it to Barton and it threw a new bunch of codes, reason for bringing it here, P0840, P0170, P0700 and P0340. Think the last 2 were there before, typing this on my phone so can't see, the first two are new but I read on here somewhere that the cam sensor can throw other codes up so I'm sticking to the cam sensor for now!
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cant find 0840 fault code mate :( :(
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I didn't find one either, prob the OBD2 way of saying its oppsed! Lol
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Found codes on my disc mate :y :y
P0840=Trans fluid pressure Sensor A==wires/TFP switch/ECM/PCM/TCM
P0700=Trans control switch=AS above
P0340=Crank sensor=wires/Crank sensor
P0170=Fuel trim==Intake leak/Fuel pump/Evap canister/HO2s(lambda)
Hope that helps :y
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Wierd, so i dont need a cam sensor? or maybe thats causing the random codes as they dont always come up?? so according the the difference in codes and what they mean, I could be spending hundreds more on the car??? you sure you dont wanna buy it....f***ing garden ornament!
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Found codes on my disc mate :y :y
P0840=Trans fluid pressure Sensor A==wires/TFP switch/ECM/PCM/TCM
P0700=Trans control switch=AS above
P0340=Crank sensor=wires/Crank sensor
P0170=Fuel trim==Intake leak/Fuel pump/Evap canister/HO2s(lambda)
Hope that helps :y
That is the CAM sensor
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Good stuff, and I'm right in thinking from another post here that the cam sensor can throw up random codes? I guess as its basically putting the car into safe/limp home mode? the car was fine before the head being done, the replacement head went on but we never changed the cam sensor, silly of me really :S
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Found codes on my disc mate :y :y
P0840=Trans fluid pressure Sensor A==wires/TFP switch/ECM/PCM/TCM
P0700=Trans control switch=AS above
P0340=Crank sensor=wires/Crank sensor
P0170=Fuel trim==Intake leak/Fuel pump/Evap canister/HO2s(lambda)
Hope that helps :y
That is the CAM sensor
Me bad :( :( sorry was on phone ordering CRANK sensor at time-It is sorry :o :o
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Easy done, we already came to that conclusion though so fingers crossed for the morrow then :P
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So, I fitted the Cam sensor, its just as bad, I'm done with it now so unless the person I offered first refusal wants it, its going on Ebay. I won't be putting details here as the rules say so sorry that nobody here will benefit, Symes will probably say that its a clean example so with this fault, any ideas on what it might fetch? Leather heated interior is unmarked :) just need enough the afford a cheap runaround really :P
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Have you tried reply #7 :-\
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I'm glad you brought that up again, I've just got off the phone to Symes about that.
As you know, the cam sensor has made no difference, I ran the engine and it was lumpy, goes straight into limp/ safe mode. I unplugged the MAF and the revs rise to a steady 1000rpm or so, it wont rev on the throttle (FBW). I plug the MAF back in and it still wont rev, I switch off and back on and it runs lumpy again but I can rev although it struggles. Also, With MAF plugged in, Light in shape of a car and spanner is on, Unplug MAF and that goes out and the EML comes on and vice versa!
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Sorry, somehow managed to entirely miss this thread :-[
Has it had a decent reader on it, esp looking at gearbox? Symes - did you check the autobox fluid level?
Marston, thats basically Headington? I do occasionally get over to Oxford (Mrs TB's folks are in Horspath), but don't think I can this week :'(
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Gear box fluid is as it should be as per a thread somewhere on here, the reader I used was an OBDII, my mate couldnt get over to me last thursday as he had problems with his car. The car is in Barton at the moment, We are going to try and get it to Symes in a fortnight as I work stupid hours and I'm also working this weekend.
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Anybody who wants to come and get a f^^^^^ headache sorted :y pm me an lets make Boggy a happy bunny-Half the stuff people suggested I've tried-AND no change >:( so to Recap
MAF unplugged-no change
Gearbox oil-ok
new coil set
CAM sensor new
Cylinder head changed due to crack
Engine holds back=VERY unwilling to rev
Come on then=Whats the problem!!!
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Willing to cast eye over, next time in Oxford, not sure when that will be. Absolutely no chance of being able to do anything physical - my own car is overdue an oil change :-[ :'(
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Not this weekend how about weekend after? you can check Boggys mig and I will do ya oil change(just bring the stuff) :y
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Not this weekend how about weekend after? you can check Boggys mig and I will do ya oil change(just bring the stuff) :y
I can get the oil done - I'm sure the Useless Student will be passing back this way ;D
Its normally evenings I get over to Oxford...
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I won't be able to do weekends due to obscure hours, As soon as the car is at Symes, I can leave it in his care and you can do as you please with her.
Just to give a broader picture, the head was replaced and running fine, EML was on as we disconnected most stuff with battery attached for the radio. Code reader at garage plugged in, codes all came back as not present, so cleared and ran fine. Following morning the EML light came on, I thought this was caused by the sheared bolt holding the EGR on. Took the car to Cornwall, ran fine from oxford until around the Avon bridge on the M5. Started to get poor acceleration and got worse further into the journey but still very drivable. Got me to Perranporth and got us around including trips to Lands end, St Austell and Bodmin. Then the problem got more noticeable around tiverton on the return home. Over the weeks it got worse. Recent troubles were, I had the rear unit with the EGR Removed to replace the EGR and bolt, obtained Vauxhall gaskets for this job, but had a water leak ever since. EGR Fine though, air leak like a vacuum which turned out to be injector seals. These were ordered from Vauxhall. this repair just seemed to amplify the problem. This has led to the car being stationary since.
Over to you guys
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OK, so the problem is related to the head swap.
I'll get my thinking cap on.
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Out of interest, why was the head replaced?
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Basically coz I'm a tit! ::)
Well, I was that particular day. When I bough the car it had already had a cam belt done, but the car started to overheat weeks after buying the car. Until then, the car ran like a dream, I loved driving it. Anyway, I pulled into the garage soon after noticing the heat and message about coolant level. No water in the expansion tank and no sign of a leak or steam. I put some antifreeze and water mix into the expansion tank, I feel embarrassed as this is a schoolboy error, I heard a tink noise from the head, I dreaded the news that it was the head cracking, The mechanic who done the work said that the water pump looked very old and the bearings had gone, Had I known, could have sorted that ages ago. Anyway, new water pump and cam belt went in but the car started overheating soon after, using water etc, steam like you wouldnt believe! Car conked out, and thats why the head was changed :(
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HIYA
I had a similar problems with my 2.2
First time it was a hose that had fallen off somewhere around the front of the throttle housing. ( wouldnt even start )
Second time it was the same hose that had cracked and it ran like a Donkey.
klickster :D
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had similar problem for a while turned out to be a worn fuel pump in the tank not shifting enough fuel forward fast enough.
. fited new pump no further trouble from this source
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both might be worth a try, symes is taking the car on saturday and having a look for me, cheers
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Right then get thinking you lot - Here goes!!!!
1-checked timing-exhaust cam 2 teeth out :'(
2-timing sorted out-It starts :y :y
3-NO repeat NO throttle-ITs DBW (rubbish IMO) :'(
4-What NOW!!!! :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
Anybody want to check with TECH 2-PM me for details
I know its not my car but REALLY REALLY STUCK now :'( :'(
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Ah 'dangle berries', I forgot :-[. I was in Oxford last night :-[
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Ah 'dangle berries', I forgot :-[. I was in Oxford last night :-[
PM sent :y
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On my old might I had similar problems, ran rough especially when accelerating. Again I could power through it.
Took to local garage. They couldn't find a fault, no codes. turned out to be the dispack. When they took it off it was cracked, causing the poor running
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On my old might I had similar problems, ran rough especially when accelerating. Again I could power through it.
Took to local garage. They couldn't find a fault, no codes. turned out to be the dispack. When they took it off it was cracked, causing the poor running
good idea mate but as mentioned earlier in thread-done.Car has NO throttle-just like disconnecting cable(this one is DBW) if you get what I mean :y
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::)
Whoops got here following a link by Symes ???
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all related to same miggy mate-Boggys 2.2 garden ornament :y
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If it weren't for Symes, It would be on Ebay by now in many parts! Cheers old boy ;)
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Right then get thinking you lot - Here goes!!!!
1-checked timing-exhaust cam 2 teeth out :'(
2-timing sorted out-It starts :y :y
3-NO repeat NO throttle-ITs DBW (rubbish IMO) :'(
4-What NOW!!!! :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
Anybody want to check with TECH 2-PM me for details
I know its not my car but REALLY REALLY STUCK now :'( :'(
Assume the connection on the TPS on the pedal has been checked. Has the throttle body been given a good clean as that incorporates the second TPS (sealed unit). Would normally get a 1555 code though for non responsive throttle ???
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Has the throttle baoy been reconnected since the cam belt cover was off for checking the timing?
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Well today found problem with cam sensor replaced that=now starts and revs to 3000 then dies? and for some reason coolant tank pressurising :o undo cap water flies out :o Even though cold????
am on the edge now tried everything I can-as said needs tech2 or I can see this one going into pieces-literally :'(
This one aint no easy problem-is it??
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I don't think it is, as the symptoms don't fit, but do you have a compression tester Symes?
The nagging doubt is the cam timing being significantly out. Wonder if that is responsible for the P0340 that it threw as well.
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Could the Exhaust Cam being out by 2 teeth maybe bend the valves? the reason I ask is because the problem has gradually gotten worse since the head was done
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Could the Exhaust Cam being out by 2 teeth maybe bend the valves? the reason I ask is because the problem has gradually gotten worse since the head was done
NO !!! Today took thermostat out-replace with new one and also changed EGR as plug socket was busted up-by previous NON-mechanic who did the head(timing out+broken cam tensioner) personally wouldnt let that person open my car door let alone work on it.
Well it starts and runs - bit fluffy at first but when warmed up its fine??? no EML light but car with spanner light on--any clues
I wondered if lamba?? maybe
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Lambda sensors don't come into the equation until they have warmed up so I doubt it.
Car with spanner light is the EML, IIRC. The one with the engine symbol indicates an emissions related problem. There should still be codes stored if wither light is on, so these need to be read, IMHO.
Given that a muppet has timed it up wrong in the past, I think a compression check would be worthwhile, just to rule out physical damage.
I would avoid replacing any more parts until the problem is found. Use the fault codes as guidance and see what they are pointing at.
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I am making a flying visit to Oxford this evening, if you're in Symes, I can lob the Tech2 in the boot for a quick plug-in and check
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Sorry mate it was my lads Birthday yesterday -BUT got code p0700 - have no Snow switch/Sports mode
Oil level ok so removing selector switch and cleaning-Then that should do it-Do you agree???
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Sorry mate it was my lads Birthday yesterday -BUT got code p0700 - have no Snow switch/Sports mode
Oil level ok so removing selector switch and cleaning-Then that should do it-Do you agree???
Need to read gearbox ecu, if you have the capabilities to do so :y
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If you dont, its a good start, though :)
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Will do as said mate- will be done over xmas holiday- if problem there afterwards will pm you ok :y :y
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Will do as said mate- will be done over xmas holiday- if problem there afterwards will pm you ok :y :y
:y
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Done :y :y :y :y :y :y :y
spray electrical cleaner on all switchs and earth points on base of gearshift under leather gaiter :y :y :y :y :y
So simple yet everyone thinks inside the (gear)box :y :y :y
got mate popping over later to plug in and check :y
But miggy does as it should=shifts thru gears no problem and sports/snow buttons/modes work :y :y
Am sure Boggy will be happy now :y :y
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Good news :y
If Range switch issues reoccur, might be worth replacing switch (with 2nd hand), as cleaning does not always work.
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:y Happy indeed but seeing is believing, Although I do believe ya! May have to go buy some Gnomes now :-\
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:y Happy indeed but seeing is believing, Although I do believe ya! May have to go buy some Gnomes now :-\
or get some old motorbike parts and I make you a sculpture-dont ask mate long story ;)
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Good news :y
If Range switch issues reoccur, might be worth replacing switch (with 2nd hand), as cleaning does not always work.
But range switch isn't under the leather gaitor. :-\ Can't think of much under there that would affect operation of the gearbox, the only switch is for key removal inhibit. Unless something was shorting the wiring to the winter / sport mode switches or the LED display? I can see that giving the autobox ECU the hump. Either way, not sure I'd expect a spray of cleaner to have effected a permanent cure. :-\ See how it goes, I guess.
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been out-took it to see my dad -No probs at all. Shake your head in disbelief BUT it did something!! cos it runs normal :y :y
Even tried sports mode and snow start modes=fine :y :y :y
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Could be a case of moisture in the wiring, leccy spray would possibly cure that? the car had been sat a while so could have added to the problems I already had, leave no stone unturned but the main issues have been rectified, simple problems which shouldn't have been there in the firt place so symes idea to go back to the beginning certainly paid off. Still, we shall see.
Just the Flex to readjust yeah Symes?
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Yes mate Granddaughter will weld it for you no mate not joking she got modded welding helmet to fit her :y :y
Told you start them young-she nearly 8 :y
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Yes mate Granddaughter will weld it for you no mate not joking she got modded welding helmet to fit her :y :y
Told you start them young-she nearly 8 :y
Flippin' Eck! that's tickled me pink symes! ;D
That kid will go far & no mistake! :y
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been out-took it to see my dad -No probs at all. Shake your head in disbelief BUT it did something!! cos it runs normal :y :y
Even tried sports mode and snow start modes=fine :y :y :y
Not shaking my head is disbelief, just pointing out that you don't know what you fixed, and therefore IF it's permanently fixed. ;)
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reckon all the damp on earths TBH and switch on side of selector was grubby not now though!!
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I'm just glad its fixed and even if its not permanently fixed, if it goes again, we know what it may be next time, Cheers Symes for your time, effort and patience :D and a very happy christmas
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Thinking what is under gaitor that could electrically affect things (pretty much nothing), so wondering...
...anyone spilt liquids near gearstick, eg coke got down into snow switch of LED panel?
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Actually, might still be worth a code read ASAP. If you can get it to me, I'll read them.
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Actually, might still be worth a code read ASAP. If you can get it to me, I'll read them.
Yep. Would be prudent to know what the ECU was complaining about. :y
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Forgot to mention that harness multi-plug(by battery) had loose connectors-small screw driver used to close up terminals a bit
cars fine-does everything right but got miss fire when warm-plugs breaking down-so new plugs and bye bye as far as i am concerned :y :y