Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tidla on 16 December 2012, 21:49:00
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I assume the front camber alters with a mixture of deterioration, age and suspension settle.
This also has an affect on toe settings?
Does a change occur with the rear suspension? If so, having a basic wheel alignment using four wheel alignment equipment without knowing whether the rear toe is correct could be a waste of time.
Marks dtm settings for the front camber is 1.20'
The rear camber is suggested at 1.35' and toe at 0.15' which are a compromise/adjusted together?
thanks
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-1.10 at the front, but theory sounds Prety good to me tbh.
Order of set up is, caster camber toe on the front. Camber and toe at the rear. So any set up that doesn't take camber into account is utterly pointless on this car.
Settle over time, ESP on new suspension, and bush wear are the real buggers to keep an eye on IME.
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If you have too much camber, we stock an off-set camber bush and a Urethane version which has on-board camber adjustability to help reduce the amount of camber while keeping the ride height that you desire and your normal toe adjustability.
The Pedders rubber camber offset version is the 5803
(http://www.pedders.co.uk/images/wmfixed/Pedders/5803-1440-1440.jpg)
And the Pedders Urethane adjustable version is the 5403 (which I need to ask the Omega listing on the website!).
(http://www.pedders.co.uk/images/wmfixed/Pedders/5403-1440-1440.jpg)
We'd like to offer the OOF members 10% off on our Omega products. Please contact me via PM for the discount code that you'll need to enter on the check out page for this 10% discount. (Note, members must have 50 posts of more to be entitled to the discount).
Regards
Michael @ Pedders
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Thanks for the info.
Hopefully when the polly bushes eventually turn and get fitted (standard ride height) i should be able to get it set up without further complication.
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I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know? :)
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?
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.....
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?
<shakes head in disbelief>
::) ::) ::) ;)
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.....
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?
<shakes head in disbelief>
::) ::) ::) ;)
;D 'av it! ;D
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I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know? :)
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?
Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.
For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.
Roger (Michael is away today)
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I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know? :)
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?
Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.
For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.
Roger (Michael is away today)
Omega does have a toe tie rod. :)
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I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know? :)
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?
Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.
For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.
Roger (Michael is away today)
Omega does have a toe tie rod. :)
I assume that is all of them?
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I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know? :)
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?
Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.
For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.
Roger (Michael is away today)
Omega does have a toe tie rod. :)
I assume that is all of them?
springs and shocks aside, omega b suspension is the same accross the range, within estate and saloon variants obviously. So yes all the same.
So Rubber ones only for us lot.
Can't speak for Carlton (omega a) though.
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I can see the use of two bolts and spring washers per bush on the rubber bushes, but why the two nuts, and only two lock washers on the poly ones Mike, do you know? :)
And is that a c spanner tap round with a hammer and punch adjustment?
Basically, the long bolt bottoms out in the centre bar and has a lock nut fitted. With the lock nut undone (and the bolt the other side slackened off) you can then use a spanner to turn the long bolt (clockwise) as it is bottomed out. Once in the right place, tighten up the lock nut and the short bolt the other side.
For clarity, the poly version is only recommended for use where there is NO toe control link. If you have a toe control link, then we recommend the use of the rubber version.
Roger (Michael is away today)
Omega does have a toe tie rod. :)
I assume that is all of them?
springs and shocks aside, omega b suspension is the same accross the range, within estate and saloon variants obviously. So yes all the same.
So Rubber ones only for us lot.
Can't speak for Carlton (omega a) though.
Sounds like it :) There isn't really enough "give" in the poly ones to absorb the deflection imparted by the toe control link.
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Morning all!
I looked up the specs for the Omega thought that the tie-rod was fitted after a certain chassis number. Did they all receive this from 1994?
Regards
Michael @ Pedders
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Omega A
No tie-rod :-
all four-cylinder cars
early six-cylinder cars
Tie-rod
later six-cylinder cars
all 24V cars
Omega B
all cars have tie-rods
Cars with a tie-rod MUST NOT have anything other than the original ( flexy ) inner bush fitted, otherwise the suspension will bind up as it rises and falls.
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Omega A
No tie-rod :-
all four-cylinder cars
early six-cylinder cars
Tie-rod
later six-cylinder cars
all 24V cars
Omega B
all cars have tie-rods
Cars with a tie-rod MUST NOT have anything other than the original ( flexy ) inner bush fitted, otherwise the suspension will bind up as it rises and falls.
Thanks Woody, that's great information. We agree with regard to the poly bush and tie-rod cars. They don't work together.
I'll update the website with the above information.
Regards
Michael @ Pedders
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:y
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........still on the site under Omega B! ;)
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Thanks,
I haven't had a chance to change the settings yet on the website.
I'll get it changed asap.
Regards
Michael @ Pedders
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Thanks,
I haven't had a chance to change the settings yet on the website.
I'll get it changed asap.
Regards
Michael @ Pedders
:y :y :y
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Inclinometer arrived today.
The polys for the omega only arrived yesterday after good old royal mail took a shine to the first set posted.
So eager to test the newly fabricated floor plates and camber gauge,decided that the golf would be the guinea pig, here goes.
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121221_154302_zps02794029.jpg)
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121221_154531_zps02b71f7f.jpg)
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121221_162847_zps1bff038a.jpg)
specs for the camber on the golf are .0.20' = 0.33 in decimal. ( some spec say 0.40')
As you can see its well out of spec.
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121221_163027_zps81ccf685.jpg)
The 13mm dust cap fitted to get near vertical shows how that translates in real terms.
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121221_170935_zpse48d17de.jpg)
Final setting after a re roll = 0.25 decimal 0.15'
Time to get the mig set up and tyres fitted :y
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good stuff, so now for toe setting?
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Toe setting coming up.
Toe setting spec for the golf is 0.00' +-10'
This was done at a local tyre place using four wheel alignment equipment just three weeks ago, No mad kurbing has occurred since. To make sure there was no issues with adjustment , all the adjustment points were freed off and copperslipped prior to visit.
You can see in the piccy, since the camber has been corrected the alignment is way out at 8.00' !!
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121223_122926_zpsfd8086ad.jpg)
As the wheel alignment equipment is not four wheel, i needed a centre line. A laser line and some all thread provided particularly accurate.
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121223_155402_zps4faf539f.jpg)
All set up. Drives straight. New tyres please.
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121223_155339_zps6edecc35.jpg)
As soon as i get the poly bushes fitted to the omega i will post the set up results .
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piccy of the front omega wishbone bush. Looks perfectly m.o.t able.
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121228_113017_zpsadf9af5d.jpg)
video of how much play is in the bush once you put some pressure on them.
http://s1114.beta.photobucket.com/user/tidla1/media/20121228_113608_zpsbc553586.mp4.html
camber measured before work
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121228_112756_zpsd8768cd3.jpg)
polys fitted
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121228_143519_zps6b696263.jpg)
camber set up
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121228_181529_zpsf0a741fd.jpg)
video of the play available in the camber bolts
http://s1114.beta.photobucket.com/user/tidla1/media/20121228_171727_zpsab384861.mp4.html
polys fitted and tracked
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121228_191026_zps372952ad.jpg)
rear camber at the moment 1.85'
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121228_191347_zpse7aa6827.jpg)
rear toe at the moment
(http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k536/tidla1/20121228_192007_zps45334ffb.jpg)
2.00' toe in
reasons for the change from spec on the rear?
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Is the ride height the same?
Anything in the boot?
Inaccurate self levelling?
Did you bounce the suspension to let it settle... ?
Busted spring since last set?