Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: TheBoy on 28 January 2013, 11:32:34
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Anyone tried them on the Omega?
I hate being the ginueau pig, as I was for SC5s - which I don't recommend.
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Nope... But I'm looking forward to your results :-X ::)
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Give me size and i'll give you the new ratings if that helps
Andy
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<Cem mode on>
http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Dunlop/SportMaxx-RT.htm
<Cem mode off>
;D
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Give me size and i'll give you the new ratings if that helps
Andy
Those ratings are absolutely meaningless, sadly, and are detracting from what the tyre manufacturers should be aiming for - grip and longevity, or a sensible compromise thereof. Not wanking around over fuel efficiency, which nobody gives a nants piss over.
Rant over, and breath ;D
The fuel efficiency difference between the very lowest and very highest ratings is around 5%. So, in an Omega, about 1mpg. As most tyres fall in the middle, it makes absolutely break all difference, apart from allowing the greenies to copitulate up their favourite tree.... ....while the rest of us are sliding into said tree, causing far more damage to the environment, if you believe that 'dangle berries'.
Thanks for the offer AndyC, but not required, I have them. Unless you have access to proper comparisons (to Sport Maxx TT)
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Imo if you want more fuel efficiency from your tyres,inflate them a bit more - seemples. ;D
Btw,if anyone wants a long term report on Jinyus finest,im your man. :y ;D
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Imo if you want more fuel efficiency, buy a shitbox - seemples. ;D
fixed.
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he'd get better fuel use, if he had more than 2 throttle settings ::)
I'm on target for 3 sets of tyres to last me 100,000 miles :D
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Imo if you want more fuel efficiency, buy an old deisel and run it on veggie oil - seemples. ;D
fixed.
Fixed properly.
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<Cem mode on>
http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Dunlop/SportMaxx-RT.htm
<Cem mode off>
;D
thanks , I was tired to click more links :)
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http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre)
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http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre)
Absolutely no use, I'm afraid. Neither of those test cars are anything like Omegas. If one was a 5 series, maybe I'd take some notice.
These same reviews said SC5s were great. They're not. They are complete shit. That shit, I am very seriously considering scrapping £700 of tyres after 1000 miles.
Lastly, I think that review is a cut and paste from several other sites. Sounds like the same words, and it was under very strict Dunlop supervision.
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Dont scrap them.I will give you £100 for them.*
*Providing you can give assurances that the car hasnt visited your local BP station during the 1000 miles. ::) ;D
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Dont scrap them.I will give you £100 for them.*
*Providing you can give assurances that the car hasnt visited your local BP station during the 1000 miles. ::) ;D
;D
150 + postage ;D :y
ok.. just joking :y
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he'd get better fuel use, if he had more than 2 throttle settings ::)
I'm on target for 3 sets of tyres to last me 100,000 miles :D
But you're demands and needs for tyres are very different ;)
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Me thinks we need an OOF tyres test.
...no...seriously, we REALLY DO. Right royal pain in the 'arris to sort out, but if a bad tyre choice is costing £700, I don't know about you, but that's unacceptable, given the resourcefulness of this particular forum.
I'd bet Dunlop win mind. In the performance category anyway. :)
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Me thinks we need an OOF tyres test.
...no...seriously, we REALLY DO. Right royal pain in the 'arris to sort out, but if a bad tyre choice is costing £700, I don't know about you, but that's unacceptable, given the resourcefulness of this particular forum.
I'd bet Dunlop win mind. In the performance category anyway. :)
Thats only for you lot with Chav me alloys!
Lot to be said for using spares from OOF, £25 a corner for Kumo31's including the alloy! ;D
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Me thinks we need an OOF tyres test.
...no...seriously, we REALLY DO. Right royal pain in the 'arris to sort out, but if a bad tyre choice is costing £700, I don't know about you, but that's unacceptable, given the resourcefulness of this particular forum.
I'd bet Dunlop win mind. In the performance category anyway. :)
Thats only for you lot with Chav me alloys!
Lot to be said for using spares from OOF, £25 a corner for Kumo31's including the alloy! ;D
Most quality tyres are going to be in the region of £140 to £180 a corner, depending on size.
As you know, I lack faith in 2nd hand tyres. Also, unless they are really cheap, they are false economy (if they don't come with the wheel).
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Me thinks we need an OOF tyres test.
...no...seriously, we REALLY DO. Right royal pain in the 'arris to sort out, but if a bad tyre choice is costing £700, I don't know about you, but that's unacceptable, given the resourcefulness of this particular forum.
I'd bet Dunlop win mind. In the performance category anyway. :)
Thats only for you lot with Chav me alloys!
Lot to be said for using spares from OOF, £25 a corner for Kumo31's including the alloy! ;D
Most quality tyres are going to be in the region of £140 to £180 a corner, depending on size.
As you know, I lack faith in 2nd hand tyres. Also, unless they are really cheap, they are false economy (if they don't come with the wheel).
More than happy with my set of Kumo 31's & Dunlop Winter 3D sport winters. Kumos had very little use previously, I don't push my tyres that hard so very happy. Dunlop winters as I've just shown, 1.6k miles blasting through Euroland in fairly extreme temps. However, if it was for MrsT or MotherT/FatherT I would have to vote new. Its my choice to run these, but they are good well known brands of tyres from good members here.
£100 for set suddenly made 2.2 back on road a viable option again.
Considering most Omegas are worth less than 4 figures, where is the sense in spending close or more than their entire value in just tyres?
Also having had Nexen's N6000 "professionally" fitted new to my 3.2, they have been worse than second hand. One tyre would loose 50% of its pressure over night, had to go back, others easily loose 3/4 PSi a week, clearly not great. Thats brand new £90 a corner, my Kumos have not lost pressure in months.
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Also having had Nexen's N6000 "professionally" fitted new to my 3.2, they have been worse than second hand. One tyre would loose 50% of its pressure over night, had to go back, others easily loose 3/4 PSi a week, clearly not great. Thats brand new £90 a corner, my Kumos have not lost pressure in months.
Thats poor, who did that?
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Also having had Nexen's N6000 "professionally" fitted new to my 3.2, they have been worse than second hand. One tyre would loose 50% of its pressure over night, had to go back, others easily loose 3/4 PSi a week, clearly not great. Thats brand new £90 a corner, my Kumos have not lost pressure in months.
Thats poor, who did that?
Place on the industrial estate, near chicken factory. Think the alloys need a refurb, they bashed them on too quick. Remember that thread of me finding a weight on drive? Entire sticky weight dropped off >:(
Shit experience. At some point I plan to have tyres taken off, wheels sorted an tyres re-fitted.
What I'm trying to say is just because you get brand new, does not guarantee superiority or reliability. Its all down to the fitter....
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Also having had Nexen's N6000 "professionally" fitted new to my 3.2, they have been worse than second hand. One tyre would loose 50% of its pressure over night, had to go back, others easily loose 3/4 PSi a week, clearly not great. Thats brand new £90 a corner, my Kumos have not lost pressure in months.
Thats poor, who did that?
Place on the industrial estate, near chicken factory. Think the alloys need a refurb, they bashed them on too quick. Remember that thread of me finding a weight on drive? Entire sticky weight dropped off >:(
Shit experience. At some point I plan to have tyres taken off, wheels sorted an tyres re-fitted.
What I'm trying to say is just because you get brand new, does not guarantee superiority or reliability. Its all down to the fitter....
yep.. agreed..
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Me thinks we need an OOF tyres test.
...no...seriously, we REALLY DO. Right royal pain in the 'arris to sort out, but if a bad tyre choice is costing £700, I don't know about you, but that's unacceptable, given the resourcefulness of this particular forum.
I'd bet Dunlop win mind. In the performance category anyway. :)
Thats only for you lot with Chav me alloys!
Lot to be said for using spares from OOF, £25 a corner for Kumo31's including the alloy! ;D
Most quality tyres are going to be in the region of £140 to £180 a corner, depending on size.
As you know, I lack faith in 2nd hand tyres. Also, unless they are really cheap, they are false economy (if they don't come with the wheel).
Ive spent £75 on tyres since I bought my car two and a half years ago. 4 tyres from OOFers,fitted them to the rims myself,4 tyres with plenty of tread on the elite alloys from my breaker when I fitted them. :D
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I spent a total of £50 or £60 in the last two years for two part worns. Now I have a 8 y/o Pirelli and contisport2 on the fronts and a Goodyear eagle and Goodyear excellence on the rear. All with different treads depths.
I can't justify spending close to the value of my car on tyres either but part worns is an option I will no longer consider and ditch finders? Forget it.
Is there a tyre out there that is cheap and gives good performance?
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Me thinks we need an OOF tyres test.
...no...seriously, we REALLY DO. Right royal pain in the 'arris to sort out, but if a bad tyre choice is costing £700, I don't know about you, but that's unacceptable, given the resourcefulness of this particular forum.
I'd bet Dunlop win mind. In the performance category anyway. :)
making a tyre test not that easy.. you can measure brake distances probably but you will need a dry track, wet track, lateral g measurement devices .. :-\
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Nope,don't need any equipment. Except to measure breaking, cones? wet and dry perhaps, but just what weather is on the day will do. Hopefully it will be consistent.
I'll wager, if we group drivers honestly, say 3 groups for arguments sake. Each group will come to the same conclusion, given the chance to drive the same car on each set.
We'll need 3 models of omega in sound mechanical order re suspension and steering and set up.
Mv6
Cdx or CD or Gls etc
Elite
Measure;
ride feel(comfort)
No of corrections at the steering wheel(tramlining)
Braking. (Difficult to get both wet and dry tbh. Wet might mean more)
Lateral load (speed on a constant curve, eg roundabout)
Noise (we have ears)
Easy! :) :-\ ;D
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By measure I mean marks out of 10, speed in cornering and distance for braking.
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Now, who has access to a large empty car park area, and some covered power?
No top speed stuff required. We could do a road test any time.
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Nope,don't need any equipment. Except to measure breaking, cones? wet and dry perhaps, but just what weather is on the day will do. Hopefully it will be consistent.
I'll wager, if we group drivers honestly, say 3 groups for arguments sake. Each group will come to the same conclusion, given the chance to drive the same car on each set.
We'll need 3 models of omega in sound mechanical order re suspension and steering and set up.
Mv6
Cdx or CD or Gls etc
Elite
Measure;
ride feel(comfort)
No of corrections at the steering wheel(tramlining)
Braking. (Difficult to get both wet and dry tbh. Wet might mean more)
Lateral load (speed on a constant curve, eg roundabout)
Noise (we have ears)
Easy! :) :-\ ;D
I'm not sure.. if you dont have exact measuring devices , results will be highly discussable.. :-X
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Nope,don't need any equipment. Except to measure breaking, cones? wet and dry perhaps, but just what weather is on the day will do. Hopefully it will be consistent.
I'll wager, if we group drivers honestly, say 3 groups for arguments sake. Each group will come to the same conclusion, given the chance to drive the same car on each set.
We'll need 3 models of omega in sound mechanical order re suspension and steering and set up.
Mv6
Cdx or CD or Gls etc
Elite
Measure;
ride feel(comfort)
No of corrections at the steering wheel(tramlining)
Braking. (Difficult to get both wet and dry tbh. Wet might mean more)
Lateral load (speed on a constant curve, eg roundabout)
Noise (we have ears)
Easy! :) :-\ ;D
I'm not sure.. if you dont have exact measuring devices , results will be highly discussable.. :-X
opinion is all that counts cem. And there is only one way to find out. :)
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Slight flaw is some members have to bring new rubber paid for themselves almost at the same time. Within a thousand miles of new maybe.
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same car, same tyre sizes and same wheels and same drivers..
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same car, same tyre sizes and same wheels and same drivers..
Pretty much, yes.
As we have three basic suspension set ups on the omega.
Three basic groups of drivers. Chavs, Plodders and Daisy's
Three basic tyre groups. Cheapo, mid range and performance.
Could be a long day. ;D
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and dry where conti is #1.. if you skip it :-X :-\
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Smd has said he's happy to be involved with his elite, new wishbones, set up, and eagle f1s.
TB mite have his mv6 sorted by then.... Might. ;D
Would Taxi Als ex plod count? :-\
Trying to keep to stock wheel sizes too, although we might get a Chav car or two. ;D
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Smd has said he's happy to be involved with his elite, new wishbones, set up, and eagle f1s.
TB mite have his mv6 sorted by then.... Might. ;D
Would Taxi Als ex plod count? :-\
Trying to keep to stock wheel sizes too, although we might get a Chav car or two. ;D
Ideally you need to stick to same body too so all Saloons or all Estates :-\
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http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre)
Absolutely no use, I'm afraid. Neither of those test cars are anything like Omegas. If one was a 5 series, maybe I'd take some notice.
These same reviews said SC5s were great. They're not. They are complete shit. That shit, I am very seriously considering scrapping £700 of tyres after 1000 miles.
Lastly, I think that review is a cut and paste from several other sites. Sounds like the same words, and it was under very strict Dunlop supervision.
;D
ok.. Funlops owned by Goodyear and Sumitomo which was originally a British company.. They are rich companies and have serious research funds.. so no chance to go wrong.. Besides I have the feeling that funlops sold in Britain and rest of Europe mostly tuned for wet.. which is another plus for UK weather
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http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre)
Absolutely no use, I'm afraid. Neither of those test cars are anything like Omegas. If one was a 5 series, maybe I'd take some notice.
These same reviews said SC5s were great. They're not. They are complete shit. That shit, I am very seriously considering scrapping £700 of tyres after 1000 miles.
Lastly, I think that review is a cut and paste from several other sites. Sounds like the same words, and it was under very strict Dunlop supervision.
;D
ok.. Funlops owned by Goodyear and Sumitomo which was originally a British company.. They are rich companies and have serious research funds.. so no chance to go wrong.. Besides I have the feeling that funlops sold in Britain and rest of Europe mostly tuned for wet.. which is another plus for UK weather
Sumitomi own Dunlop Japan only.
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Smd has said he's happy to be involved with his elite, new wishbones, set up, and eagle f1s.
TB mite have his mv6 sorted by then.... Might. ;D
Would Taxi Als ex plod count? :-\
Trying to keep to stock wheel sizes too, although we might get a Chav car or two. ;D
Ideally you need to stick to same body too so all Saloons or all Estates :-\
Saloons then, on numbers and handling(?). I don't think it will matter too much though as the results of one should be relevant to the other.
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Smd has said he's happy to be involved with his elite, new wishbones, set up, and eagle f1s.
TB mite have his mv6 sorted by then.... Might. ;D
Would Taxi Als ex plod count? :-\
Trying to keep to stock wheel sizes too, although we might get a Chav car or two. ;D
Ideally you need to stick to same body too so all Saloons or all Estates :-\
Saloons then, on numbers and handling(?). I don't think it will matter too much though as the results of one should be relevant to the other.
Agreed... But for fair comparison they should all be the same ;)
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http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre)
Absolutely no use, I'm afraid. Neither of those test cars are anything like Omegas. If one was a 5 series, maybe I'd take some notice.
These same reviews said SC5s were great. They're not. They are complete shit. That shit, I am very seriously considering scrapping £700 of tyres after 1000 miles.
Lastly, I think that review is a cut and paste from several other sites. Sounds like the same words, and it was under very strict Dunlop supervision.
;D
ok.. Funlops owned by Goodyear and Sumitomo which was originally a British company.. They are rich companies and have serious research funds.. so no chance to go wrong.. Besides I have the feeling that funlops sold in Britain and rest of Europe mostly tuned for wet.. which is another plus for UK weather
Sumitomi own Dunlop Japan only.
similiar weather , so co-operative development.. and japan have very good test tracks..
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http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre)
Absolutely no use, I'm afraid. Neither of those test cars are anything like Omegas. If one was a 5 series, maybe I'd take some notice.
These same reviews said SC5s were great. They're not. They are complete shit. That shit, I am very seriously considering scrapping £700 of tyres after 1000 miles.
Lastly, I think that review is a cut and paste from several other sites. Sounds like the same words, and it was under very strict Dunlop supervision.
;D
ok.. Funlops owned by Goodyear and Sumitomo which was originally a British company.. They are rich companies and have serious research funds.. so no chance to go wrong.. Besides I have the feeling that funlops sold in Britain and rest of Europe mostly tuned for wet.. which is another plus for UK weather
Sumitomi own Dunlop Japan only.
similiar weather , so co-operative development.. and japan have very good test tracks..
According to Dunlop technical help line we don't get any Sumitomi tyres in Europe.
Make of that what you will.
But it makes sense, why have your Japanese factory supplying Europe, when you have a European factory?
I suspect either Dunlop, or Goodyear will win anyway.
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Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
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Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
The point of this is, that tyres that seem to get reasonable reviews on other cars, seem to handle very badly on the omega on occasion. Falkens and TheGroomers sc5 for example.
So modern tests on modern tyres are going to be completely irrelevant to us, with omegas.
-
Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
The point of this is, that tyres that seem to get reasonable reviews on other cars, seem to handle very badly on the omega on occasion. Falkens and TheGroomers sc5 for example.
So modern tests on modern tyres are going to be completely irrelevant to us, with omegas.
complete nonsense..
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http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre)
Absolutely no use, I'm afraid. Neither of those test cars are anything like Omegas. If one was a 5 series, maybe I'd take some notice.
These same reviews said SC5s were great. They're not. They are complete shit. That shit, I am very seriously considering scrapping £700 of tyres after 1000 miles.
Lastly, I think that review is a cut and paste from several other sites. Sounds like the same words, and it was under very strict Dunlop supervision.
;D
ok.. Funlops owned by Goodyear and Sumitomo which was originally a British company.. They are rich companies and have serious research funds.. so no chance to go wrong.. Besides I have the feeling that funlops sold in Britain and rest of Europe mostly tuned for wet.. which is another plus for UK weather
Sumitomi own Dunlop Japan only.
similiar weather , so co-operative development.. and japan have very good test tracks..
According to Dunlop technical help line we don't get any Sumitomi tyres in Europe.
Make of that what you will.
But it makes sense, why have your Japanese factory supplying Europe, when you have a European factory?
I suspect either Dunlop, or Goodyear will win anyway.
its not meaningful to have different research sites for Japan and Europe..
-
Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
The point of this is, that tyres that seem to get reasonable reviews on other cars, seem to handle very badly on the omega on occasion. Falkens and TheGroomers sc5 for example.
So modern tests on modern tyres are going to be completely irrelevant to us, with omegas.
complete nonsense..
So please explain to TheGroomer why his sc5 tramline all over the place with new sc5, and worn out TT handle almost perfectly with a lot less, almost zero tram lining?
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http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre (http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/41010/dunlop-sport-maxx-rt-tyre)
Absolutely no use, I'm afraid. Neither of those test cars are anything like Omegas. If one was a 5 series, maybe I'd take some notice.
These same reviews said SC5s were great. They're not. They are complete shit. That shit, I am very seriously considering scrapping £700 of tyres after 1000 miles.
Lastly, I think that review is a cut and paste from several other sites. Sounds like the same words, and it was under very strict Dunlop supervision.
;D
ok.. Funlops owned by Goodyear and Sumitomo which was originally a British company.. They are rich companies and have serious research funds.. so no chance to go wrong.. Besides I have the feeling that funlops sold in Britain and rest of Europe mostly tuned for wet.. which is another plus for UK weather
Sumitomi own Dunlop Japan only.
similiar weather , so co-operative development.. and japan have very good test tracks..
According to Dunlop technical help line we don't get any Sumitomi tyres in Europe.
Make of that what you will.
But it makes sense, why have your Japanese factory supplying Europe, when you have a European factory?
I suspect either Dunlop, or Goodyear will win anyway.
its not meaningful to have different research sites for Japan and Europe..
<cem mode on>
Well, I suggest you ring Dunlop and tell them.... ???
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The problem with setting cars up is no two drivers will use the same setup,the same for tyres different peoples have different styles,
Me i hate stiffly set up cars,i prefer a slightly soft setup.
Also tyres are a very emotive supject on all car fourums.
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So, we need to measure the G circle for each tyre. I have a box that should be able to do that. ;)
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The problem with setting cars up is no two drivers will use the same setup,the same for tyres different peoples have different styles,
Me i hate stiffly set up cars,i prefer a slightly soft setup.
Also tyres are a very emotive supject on all car fourums.
Hence the groups suggested. If nothing else comes of it at all, it will hopefully give members a chance to compare other tyres and find something that works for them. Even if everyone else hates that tyre. Opinion is everything IMO.
-
Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
The point of this is, that tyres that seem to get reasonable reviews on other cars, seem to handle very badly on the omega on occasion. Falkens and TheGroomers sc5 for example.
So modern tests on modern tyres are going to be completely irrelevant to us, with omegas.
complete nonsense..
So please explain to TheGroomer why his sc5 tramline all over the place with new sc5, and worn out TT handle almost perfectly with a lot less, almost zero tram lining?
Tramlining is not a part of tests and I have never ever seen it included anywhere.. its a natural function of Chavy wide tyre grip which in force is greater than your front setup can handle.. Physic forces apply anywhere ,everywhere even you go to the other end of universe and drive a UFO..
-
Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
The point of this is, that tyres that seem to get reasonable reviews on other cars, seem to handle very badly on the omega on occasion. Falkens and TheGroomers sc5 for example.
So modern tests on modern tyres are going to be completely irrelevant to us, with omegas.
complete nonsense..
So please explain to TheGroomer why his sc5 tramline all over the place with new sc5, and worn out TT handle almost perfectly with a lot less, almost zero tram lining?
Tramlining is not a part of tests and I have never ever seen it included anywhere.. its a natural function of Chavy wide tyre grip which in force is greater than your front setup can handle.. Physic forces apply anywhere ,everywhere even you go to the other end of universe and drive a UFO..
cem, please, think more carefully about this. Take my issue with mo and ao1 sc3. THE WIDER TYRE TRAMLINED THE LEAST.
there's something else at play than width, offset, tread pattern, and profile. It's not that simple. And this is exactly why a tramline test is needed.
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So, we need to measure the G circle for each tyre. I have a box that should be able to do that. ;)
<cem mode off>
Speed not accurate enough? :-\
-
Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
The point of this is, that tyres that seem to get reasonable reviews on other cars, seem to handle very badly on the omega on occasion. Falkens and TheGroomers sc5 for example.
So modern tests on modern tyres are going to be completely irrelevant to us, with omegas.
complete nonsense..
So please explain to TheGroomer why his sc5 tramline all over the place with new sc5, and worn out TT handle almost perfectly with a lot less, almost zero tram lining?
Tramlining is not a part of tests and I have never ever seen it included anywhere.. its a natural function of Chavy wide tyre grip which in force is greater than your front setup can handle.. Physic forces apply anywhere ,everywhere even you go to the other end of universe and drive a UFO..
cem, please, think more carefully about this. Take my issue with mo and ao1 sc3. THE WIDER TYRE TRAMLINED THE LEAST.
there's something else at play than width, offset, tread pattern, and profile. It's not that simple. And this is exactly why I tramline test is needed.
Chris I have no intention to repeat all those long physic threads .. You understand it or not.. Your car is an ordinary car with 4 wheels like all other million cars.. and is subject to same forces only changing in magnitude.. you accept the tests or not is up to you but as an engineer I care only about them.. not the irrelevant personal views.. end of..
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Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
The point of this is, that tyres that seem to get reasonable reviews on other cars, seem to handle very badly on the omega on occasion. Falkens and TheGroomers sc5 for example.
So modern tests on modern tyres are going to be completely irrelevant to us, with omegas.
complete nonsense..
So please explain to TheGroomer why his sc5 tramline all over the place with new sc5, and worn out TT handle almost perfectly with a lot less, almost zero tram lining?
Tramlining is not a part of tests and I have never ever seen it included anywhere.. its a natural function of Chavy wide tyre grip which in force is greater than your front setup can handle.. Physic forces apply anywhere ,everywhere even you go to the other end of universe and drive a UFO..
cem, please, think more carefully about this. Take my issue with mo and ao1 sc3. THE WIDER TYRE TRAMLINED THE LEAST.
there's something else at play than width, offset, tread pattern, and profile. It's not that simple. And this is exactly why I tramline test is needed.
Chris I have no intention to repeat all those long physic threads .. You understand it or not.. Your car is an ordinary car with 4 wheels like all other million cars.. and is subject to same forces only changing in magnitude.. you accept the tests or not is up to you but as an engineer I care only about them.. not the irrelevant personal views.. end of..
<cem mode on>
So as you, an engineer, clearly can't explain the problem, do you mind if we carry on?
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Dunlip do a lot of testing at mira.road and race tyres and commercial.
The point of this is, that tyres that seem to get reasonable reviews on other cars, seem to handle very badly on the omega on occasion. Falkens and TheGroomers sc5 for example.
So modern tests on modern tyres are going to be completely irrelevant to us, with omegas.
complete nonsense..
So please explain to TheGroomer why his sc5 tramline all over the place with new sc5, and worn out TT handle almost perfectly with a lot less, almost zero tram lining?
Tramlining is not a part of tests and I have never ever seen it included anywhere.. its a natural function of Chavy wide tyre grip which in force is greater than your front setup can handle.. Physic forces apply anywhere ,everywhere even you go to the other end of universe and drive a UFO..
cem, please, think more carefully about this. Take my issue with mo and ao1 sc3. THE WIDER TYRE TRAMLINED THE LEAST.
there's something else at play than width, offset, tread pattern, and profile. It's not that simple. And this is exactly why I tramline test is needed.
Chris I have no intention to repeat all those long physic threads .. You understand it or not.. Your car is an ordinary car with 4 wheels like all other million cars.. and is subject to same forces only changing in magnitude.. you accept the tests or not is up to you but as an engineer I care only about them.. not the irrelevant personal views.. end of..
<cem mode on>
So as you, an engineer, clearly can't explain the problem, do you mind if we carry on?
thats your conclusion.. do the tests as you wish but please include measurements.. :)
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Sigh....
<cem mode off>
So all we need is an area to test in.
Anyone...?
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Can provide 17" and 18"s for the Runways, LD might need to bring the 16"s though :-\
The firm I did my hgv licence with rents a site at the western end of Ford aerodrome... bit south perhaps.
Iirc, there's a test facility near Brooklands, though given the 22 years sinced I last went there, it might now be Mercedes Benz Land.
Will be fitting 'those' arms to mine next week, along with the clutch and ARB polys :y
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Didn't joshwyatt say he had access to a private runway?
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Text sent.
(although he is extremely buzy)
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Didn't joshwyatt say he had access to a private runway?
Has it got any bends in it? ;)
Or are we just testing Vmax? ;D
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can i bring my wanli's ;D
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Looks like we might be on for an airfield. With a small fee for insurance purposes. :)
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I need to order some tyres then ::)
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Good news :y
I'll have new Eagle F1's
taxi al in runways enduros
TB in his SC5?
Who will turn up in dunlops? ;D
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Also having had Nexen's N6000 "professionally" fitted new to my 3.2, they have been worse than second hand. One tyre would loose 50% of its pressure over night, had to go back, others easily loose 3/4 PSi a week, clearly not great. Thats brand new £90 a corner, my Kumos have not lost pressure in months.
Thats poor, who did that?
Place on the industrial estate, near chicken factory. Think the alloys need a refurb, they bashed them on too quick. Remember that thread of me finding a weight on drive? Entire sticky weight dropped off >:(
Shit experience. At some point I plan to have tyres taken off, wheels sorted an tyres re-fitted.
What I'm trying to say is just because you get brand new, does not guarantee superiority or reliability. Its all down to the fitter....
Tyre Warehouse? They are awful. Bad advice, and bad workmanship. Every tyre I've had done there has either leaked at the rim, or the valve because they haven't replaced it. Yet to get them to balance a wheel accurately.
Needless to say, I avoid them.
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Tramlining is not a part of tests and I have never ever seen it included anywhere..
Yes, showing the tests are rubbish. Esp with the new Euro ratings which are meaningless to all.
It should be part of the tests. Its a bloody useless tyre that is impossible to keep in a straight line.
its a natural function of Chavy wide tyre grip which in force is greater than your front setup can handle.. Physic forces apply anywhere ,everywhere even you go to the other end of universe and drive a UFO..
Cobblers. Its a function of tyre rigidity. Admittedly that can change with width and profile, but not due to width and profile per se.
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TB mite have his mv6 sorted by then.... Might. ;D
Already sorted :y
SC5s off, virtually bald Sport Maxx TT back on. Bliss, despite the rain. It goes where you point it, and runs straight. And stops straight.
SC5s back on TBE, so I dread the day I have to use that again :'(
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But back on topic, have I got to be the bloody guineau pig again :'(
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Tramlining is not a part of tests and I have never ever seen it included anywhere..
Yes, showing the tests are rubbish. Esp with the new Euro ratings which are meaningless to all.
It should be part of the tests. Its a bloody useless tyre that is impossible to keep in a straight line.
its a natural function of Chavy wide tyre grip which in force is greater than your front setup can handle.. Physic forces apply anywhere ,everywhere even you go to the other end of universe and drive a UFO..
Cobblers. Its a function of tyre rigidity. Admittedly that can change with width and profile, but not due to width and profile per se.
please read my tramlining thread..
ps: if you eliminate grip you will solve tramlining eternally ;D
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Too much theory. A bit more hands in experience perhaps?
Finding answers via google to a perceived issue, as opposed to a hands on issue with hands on trial and error, are two very different things.
The reality is, well, everything. :)
You may remember a thread of mine? Same subject. An oddity, further to that described by google, that didn't make sense. Ie, a tyre, same model, same make, behaving differently on the same car with same wheels, same set up, same driver.
There where only two differences.
1 different sub model
2 the poorly handling tyre was 10mm narrower.
Difference no 2, being the oddity to any fact raised via google in relation to tramlining. Hence my questions on here in that thread.
Still looking for an answer to that one.
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But back on topic, have I got to be the bloody guineau pig again :'(
I did pm you.
Might have been a text?
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Too much theory. A bit more hands in experience perhaps?
Finding answers via google to a perceived issue, as opposed to a hands on issue with hands on trial and error, are two very different things.
The reality is, well, everything. :)
You may remember a thread of mine? Same subject. An oddity, further to that described by google, that didn't make sense. Ie, a tyre, same model, same make, behaving differently on the same car with same wheels, same set up, same driver.
There where only two differences.
1 different sub model
2 the poorly handling tyre was 10mm narrower.
Difference no 2, being the oddity to any fact raised via google in relation to tramlining. Hence my questions on here in that thread.
Still looking for an answer to that one.
::) Chris , did you know that google is just a tool.. and not only you many people , racers, mechanics, tyre shops, tyre producers and even scientists dealing with the same subject.. so no need to re-invent things again.. just read :y
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Too much theory. A bit more hands in experience perhaps?
Finding answers via google to a perceived issue, as opposed to a hands on issue with hands on trial and error, are two very different things.
The reality is, well, everything. :)
You may remember a thread of mine? Same subject. An oddity, further to that described by google, that didn't make sense. Ie, a tyre, same model, same make, behaving differently on the same car with same wheels, same set up, same driver.
There where only two differences.
1 different sub model
2 the poorly handling tyre was 10mm narrower.
Difference no 2, being the oddity to any fact raised via google in relation to tramlining. Hence my questions on here in that thread.
Still looking for an answer to that one.
::) Chris , did you know that google is just a tool.. and not only you many people , racers, mechanics, tyre shops, tyre producers and even scientists dealing with the same subject.. so no need to re-invent things again.. just read :y
Oh the irony...
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please read my tramlining thread..
I have. It's generalisations, and makes some assumptions to give not necessarily correct impressions. And wrong in places.
Tramlining of a tyre is 100% down to tyre rigidity. Obviously suspension has an impact if you vary the chassis (and why tyre reviews are a waste of time, unless its on the same/similar chassis), but for different tyres on the same chassis, this is not relevent.
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That post is a bit back to school tbh. Putting it politely. :)
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Was it 245/40/18 for the 8J s :-\ I've slept since I last looked ::)
By the way, Wikipedia is a third fact, a third gossip and a third imaginary ::)
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Was it 245/40/18 for the 8J s :-\ I've slept since I last looked ::)
By the way, Wikipedia is a third fact, a third gossip and a third imaginary ::)
245 where the ones that behaved. 235 tramlined.
Both recommended sizes.
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By the way, Wikipedia is a third fact, a third gossip and a third imaginary ::)
And 100% wrong when I'm running online quizzes :-X
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Tramlining of a tyre is 100% down to tyre rigidity. Obviously suspension has an impact if you vary the chassis (and why tyre reviews are a waste of time, unless its on the same/similar chassis), but for different tyres on the same chassis, this is not relevent.
Think this test may be harder to resolve than originally thought. :-\
We have two allegedly identical cars, same age, same colour, same model, same wheels and tyres and both are only a few weeks old with only a few hundred miles on the clock, so no wear at all on any components to account for. One of them suffers from no noticable tramlining but the other, which sits about an inch higher and has a very slightly softer ride, suffers from mild tramlining. :-\
Incidentally, as far as the tyres go, with up to 580Nm of torque, I can lose grip on acceleration very easily, even on kick-down at around 25-30mph, but the straight-line braking ability of the same tyre is very good. So, a tyre that is relatively 'unloaded' is shite for grip on acceleration but is great for 'loaded' braking stopping distance. :-\
Good luck with the tests. :y
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please read my tramlining thread..
I have. It's generalisations, and makes some assumptions to give not necessarily correct impressions. And wrong in places.
Tramlining of a tyre is 100% down to tyre rigidity. Obviously suspension has an impact if you vary the chassis (and why tyre reviews are a waste of time, unless its on the same/similar chassis), but for different tyres on the same chassis, this is not relevent.
Mr Admin.. Today , I have read many pages about the subject.. And have notes from serious tyre sites, discussion groups where people agree on and some other helpful sites.. And later I summarize my notes and give some brief.. And it was not surprising to see their views were highly parallel..
By the way , most of the heated debates on tramlining were on BMW sites ;D ::)
And I must add, your conclusion is highly personal and not reflecting the physic rules where general consensus is focused on..
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Tramlining of a tyre is 100% down to tyre rigidity. Obviously suspension has an impact if you vary the chassis (and why tyre reviews are a waste of time, unless its on the same/similar chassis), but for different tyres on the same chassis, this is not relevent.
Think this test may be harder to resolve than originally thought. :-\
We have two allegedly identical cars, same age, same colour, same model, same wheels and tyres and both are only a few weeks old with only a few hundred miles on the clock, so no wear at all on any components to account for. One of them suffers from no noticable tramlining but the other, which sits about an inch higher and has a very slightly softer ride, suffers from mild tramlining. :-\
Incidentally, as far as the tyres go, with up to 580Nm of torque, I can lose grip on acceleration very easily, even on kick-down at around 25-30mph, but the straight-line braking ability of the same tyre is very good. So, a tyre that is relatively 'unloaded' is shite for grip on acceleration but is great for 'loaded' braking stopping distance. :-\
Good luck with the tests. :y
set up?
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please read my tramlining thread..
I have. It's generalisations, and makes some assumptions to give not necessarily correct impressions. And wrong in places.
Tramlining of a tyre is 100% down to tyre rigidity. Obviously suspension has an impact if you vary the chassis (and why tyre reviews are a waste of time, unless its on the same/similar chassis), but for different tyres on the same chassis, this is not relevent.
Mr Admin.. Today , I have read many pages about the subject.. And have notes from serious tyre sites, discussion groups where people agree on and some other helpful sites.. And later I summarize my notes and give some brief.. And it was not surprising to see their views were highly parallel..
By the way , most of the heated debates on tramlining were on BMW sites ;D ::)
And I must add, your conclusion is highly personal and not reflecting the physic rules where general consensus is focused on..
Once again cem, no body is questioning your googling.
These are oddities that don't fit the normal rules. Hence the issues we've had, and the need for hands on approach.
The Chav wheel sizes you mention are indeed more likely to tramline. Fully accepted. Has been for years.
But look more closely within that statement, and my sc3 issue defies the accepted explanation.
Because the wider tyre of the two did not tramline AT ALL. EVEN WHEN WORN OUT.
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Further more TB's TT don't tram line. Until 3/4 used.
TB's completely odd set of worn out, old, one mud and snow, 3 summer, one split side wall, one Autogrip utterly shite "set" of tyres didn't tram line. Where as his brand spanking new sc5 tramline more than his clown car michelins did.
Now I know that you personally have recommended sc5 to me on here. Perhaps you can advise us where the problem is?
Lets start with TB's sc5's. why do they have no directional stability at all? They tramline all over the place! Cem?
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I've always had tramlining towards the end of a tyre's life, so probably due to lack of compliance when the tread blocks are
non-existent 1.6mm high. ;)
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cem, I accept there is a language barrier as English is not your first language (but you've really got to grips with it :y), but you are completely missing the point.
Do they describe why wider tyres cause more tramlining? No. Its purely down to the tyres construction. Yes, the rigidity of a tyre will vary with width/profile if the construction and materials are identical. But that doesn't simply mean that a wider tyre must tramline more.
Additionally, it doesn't explain why 4 matched SC5 tyres, 235/40/18 are so much more unstable in both a straight line, and under braking than 4 different branded, mixed summer/winter 235/40/18 tyres. On the same chassis. Remember, these are the same SC5s that Golf and Mondeo owners piss their pants over. I've done the £700 experiment, and can categorically say, they are most definately not suitable for our Omegas, whatever irrelevent reviewers say.
It doesn't explain why the current 235/45/17 tyres on my MV6 provide the most tramline-resistant ride of every single Omega I have ever driven, and I've driven an awful lot of them. Yet has the widest, lowest profile of the standard Omega sizes.
Beware, there is an awful lot of bullshit out on the Internet. I know, I posted some of it ;D. I know you work in IT, so you are aware that 99% of IT journalists are full of shit. I have no reason so believe that automotive journalists have a better ratio.
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please read my tramlining thread..
I have. It's generalisations, and makes some assumptions to give not necessarily correct impressions. And wrong in places.
Tramlining of a tyre is 100% down to tyre rigidity. Obviously suspension has an impact if you vary the chassis (and why tyre reviews are a waste of time, unless its on the same/similar chassis), but for different tyres on the same chassis, this is not relevent.
Mr Admin.. Today , I have read many pages about the subject.. And have notes from serious tyre sites, discussion groups where people agree on and some other helpful sites.. And later I summarize my notes and give some brief.. And it was not surprising to see their views were highly parallel..
By the way , most of the heated debates on tramlining were on BMW sites ;D ::)
And I must add, your conclusion is highly personal and not reflecting the physic rules where general consensus is focused on..
Once again cem, no body is questioning your googling.
These are oddities that don't fit the normal rules. Hence the issues we've had, and the need for hands on approach.
The Chav wheel sizes you mention are indeed more likely to tramline. Fully accepted. Has been for years.
But look more closely within that statement, and my sc3 issue defies the accepted explanation.
Because the wider tyre of the two did not tramline AT ALL. EVEN WHEN WORN OUT.
there is no oddity in science Chris.. if there is an oddity , either your theory suffers from a bad equation with lacking/wrong parameters or it fails in general (=utter boll*x ;D )
I have no doubt your issues are somewhere in those parameters which are defined (anyway they dont leave any parameter behind )
I ordered them from highest to lowest importance..
Unfotunately, I havent seen anywhere any measurement device for the degree of tramlining (which must measure force).. so we are talking about unmeasurable sense??? units.. may be there is tramlining , its compansated and you dont feel who knows..
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I suspect the "wide tyres CAUSE tramlining" is a tyre shop get out clause tbh.
Again accepting the likeyhood is increased with Chav sizes. But it is absolutely not the categorical answer. Because 245 40 18 sc3 mo do not tram line AT ALL. THIS SIZE IS WAY BIGGER, than some smaller sizes that do tram line.
Please explain? :)
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Unfotunately, I havent seen anywhere any measurement device for the degree of tramlining (which must measure force).. so we are talking about unmeasurable sense??? units.. may be there is tramlining , its compansated and you dont feel who knows..
Hence, my stand that tyre reviews/stats are useless (useless in the practical sense, but they sell magazines ::))
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please read my tramlining thread..
I have. It's generalisations, and makes some assumptions to give not necessarily correct impressions. And wrong in places.
Tramlining of a tyre is 100% down to tyre rigidity. Obviously suspension has an impact if you vary the chassis (and why tyre reviews are a waste of time, unless its on the same/similar chassis), but for different tyres on the same chassis, this is not relevent.
Mr Admin.. Today , I have read many pages about the subject.. And have notes from serious tyre sites, discussion groups where people agree on and some other helpful sites.. And later I summarize my notes and give some brief.. And it was not surprising to see their views were highly parallel..
By the way , most of the heated debates on tramlining were on BMW sites ;D ::)
And I must add, your conclusion is highly personal and not reflecting the physic rules where general consensus is focused on..
Once again cem, no body is questioning your googling.
These are oddities that don't fit the normal rules. Hence the issues we've had, and the need for hands on approach.
The Chav wheel sizes you mention are indeed more likely to tramline. Fully accepted. Has been for years.
But look more closely within that statement, and my sc3 issue defies the accepted explanation.
Because the wider tyre of the two did not tramline AT ALL. EVEN WHEN WORN OUT.
there is no oddity in science Chris.. if there is an oddity , either your theory suffers from a bad equation with lacking/wrong parameters or it fails in general (=utter boll*x ;D )
I have no doubt your issues are somewhere in those parameters which are defined (anyway they dont leave any parameter behind )
I ordered them from highest to lowest importance..
Unfotunately, I havent seen anywhere any measurement device for the degree of tramlining (which must measure force).. so we are talking about unmeasurable sense??? units.. may be there is tramlining , its compansated and you dont feel who knows..
its very very measurable
1 Number of corrections at the steering wheel required over a set distance at a set speed.
2 highest speed the driver ( the same driver ) feels safe to travel at on the same poor stretch of road.
Note, I also seem to remember you have over size wheels, no?
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I have a section of road I test member cars over locally.
groomers sc5, 30 odd corrections. On his well sorted mv6 chassis btw. The same chassis that doesn't tram line with TT fitted.
Smd's odd ball set of tyres after fitting new wishbones and poly donuts. 10 tp 15 corrections and his car needed set up.
My sc3 mo. zero corrections, same stretch of road. My sc3 ao1 10-15 corrections. Same chassis, set up, wheels, driver.
Cem please explain? :)
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Ps. Taxi Als Runway enduro stock 17 size, poly front and back. Same stretch 5 or 6 corrections.
Good for the money. Btw. :y
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cem, I accept there is a language barrier as English is not your first language (1.but you've really got to grips with it :y ), but you are completely missing the point.
Do they describe why wider tyres cause more tramlining? No. Its purely down to the tyres construction. Yes, the rigidity of a tyre will vary with width/profile if the construction and materials are identical. 2.But that doesn't simply mean that a wider tyre must tramline more.
4.Additionally, it doesn't explain why 4 matched SC5 tyres, 235/40/18 are so much more unstable in both a straight line, and under braking than 4 different branded, mixed summer/winter 235/40/18 tyres. On the same chassis. Remember, these are the same SC5s that Golf and Mondeo owners piss their pants over. I've done the £700 experiment, and can categorically say, they are most definately not suitable for our Omegas, whatever irrelevent reviewers say.
3.It doesn't explain why the current 235/45/17 tyres on my MV6 provide the most tramline-resistant ride of every single Omega I have ever driven, and I've driven an awful lot of them. Yet has the widest, lowest profile of the standard Omega sizes.
Beware, there is an awful lot of bullshit out on the Internet. I know, I posted some of it ;D . I know you work in IT, so you are aware that 99% of IT journalists are full of shit. I have no reason so believe that automotive journalists have a better ratio.
1.yes and thanks :y
2. question a: if there is no friction between the tyre and surface , will there be tramlining or not ?
question b: is the surface of area of contact patch effects the sidewall pressure or not ?
question c : is the surface area of contact patch changes surface heat (so rubber properties change) resulting with friction force change ?
3. You dont feel any tramlining doesnt mean there is not (see my post to Chris).. A tramlining tyre doesnt mean its a bad tyre.. A tramlining car doesnt mean its a bad car..
4. You dont have any mesurement device in your hand to see the values of parameters and you dont have any F1 team mechanics backing you as far as I know.. How can you solve an equation with n parameters with n unknowns ???
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And not one single solution offered cem.
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please read my tramlining thread..
I have. It's generalisations, and makes some assumptions to give not necessarily correct impressions. And wrong in places.
Tramlining of a tyre is 100% down to tyre rigidity. Obviously suspension has an impact if you vary the chassis (and why tyre reviews are a waste of time, unless its on the same/similar chassis), but for different tyres on the same chassis, this is not relevent.
Mr Admin.. Today , I have read many pages about the subject.. And have notes from serious tyre sites, discussion groups where people agree on and some other helpful sites.. And later I summarize my notes and give some brief.. And it was not surprising to see their views were highly parallel..
By the way , most of the heated debates on tramlining were on BMW sites ;D ::)
And I must add, your conclusion is highly personal and not reflecting the physic rules where general consensus is focused on..
Once again cem, no body is questioning your googling.
These are oddities that don't fit the normal rules. Hence the issues we've had, and the need for hands on approach.
The Chav wheel sizes you mention are indeed more likely to tramline. Fully accepted. Has been for years.
But look more closely within that statement, and my sc3 issue defies the accepted explanation.
Because the wider tyre of the two did not tramline AT ALL. EVEN WHEN WORN OUT.
there is no oddity in science Chris.. if there is an oddity , either your theory suffers from a bad equation with lacking/wrong parameters or it fails in general (=utter boll*x ;D )
I have no doubt your issues are somewhere in those parameters which are defined (anyway they dont leave any parameter behind )
I ordered them from highest to lowest importance..
Unfotunately, I havent seen anywhere any measurement device for the degree of tramlining (which must measure force).. so we are talking about unmeasurable sense??? units.. may be there is tramlining , its compansated and you dont feel who knows..
its very very measurable
1 Number of corrections at the steering wheel required over a set distance at a set speed.
2 highest speed the driver ( the same driver ) feels safe to travel at on the same poor stretch of road.
Note, I also seem to remember you have over size wheels, no?
1..Eh.. not bad.. finally some measurable things ;D :y
2.back to square one ;D
if you call 225/45 17 as oversize , yes.. but smaller than the size latest omegas use factory fitted..
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Ah, a tyre thread. Should I say something???........... :-X
I might just add that the tyre test suggested may not really add true meaning. I say that purely because handling/tyres/steering feel is so subjective. In a way it is a trained/learned sensation/emotion. What feels right to one person, will not be appreciated the same way by someone else. Most of the population here belong to a normal group of drivers with varying driving styles, requirements and training. On the other hand if you were to say take a group of F1 drivers, then you might get some concordance in results. Yet you will get diversity even in those opinions. Then throw in suspension setup, predominantly 10+ year old cars which throws in another confounding factor. Lastly each persons estimation of what sort of driver they are. There is lots of research out there to suggest that self evaluation often produces a skewed picture, particularly with something as manly/egoistic/testosterone driven as driving.
I see cem's view point of just measuring physics; a very much a scientific way of doing things. But then driving is such an emotive subject, that perception just cannot be ruled out of the equation. I suspect this argument could go on for ever.
Back to the OP, I have driven on a full set of RT's up to Scotland and back. But this was on a BMW E39. Cannot for the life of me remember the wheel size, but they felt very planted on the cold and wet roads. But then I wasnt really testing them, just happened to be those tyres and my usual style of driving.
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3. You dont feel any tramlining doesnt mean there is not (see my post to Chris).. A tramlining tyre doesnt mean its a bad tyre.. A tramlining car doesnt mean its a bad car..
No, but if on the same car, one tyre tramlines and another doesn't, which tyre is best from a non-tramlining perspective?
And, if that same test using the same tyres is 100% repeatable on a 2nd car?
Surely, that shows its a bad tyre choice (for that car)?
The fact that the SC5 suffers less grip as well is just salt in the wound ;)
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And not one single solution offered cem.
Chris, to solve a problem, you need lab(track wet & dry) , curves, gps, g measuring devices, different tyres and some electronic devices..
if you can have them solution is easy.. at least for a specific car and driver..
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What feels right to one person, will not be appreciated the same way by someone else. Most of the population here belong to a normal group of drivers with varying driving styles, requirements and training. On the other hand if you were to say take a group of F1 drivers, then you might get some concordance in results. Yet you will get diversity even in those opinions.
But find a really suited one, I bet everyone will notice :y. I reckon that Sport Maxx TT is as close as you can get to the perfect tyre for the Omega (ignoring wear)
Back to the OP, I have driven on a full set of RT's up to Scotland and back. But this was on a BMW E39. Cannot for the life of me remember the wheel size, but they felt very planted on the cold and wet roads. But then I wasnt really testing them, just happened to be those tyres and my usual style of driving.
Just what I was after, D, as per original post, thanks.
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And not one single solution offered cem.
Chris, to solve a problem, you need lab(track wet & dry) , curves, gps, g measuring devices, different tyres and some electronic devices..
if you can have them solution is easy.. at least for a specific car and driver..
You just said there is no test for tramlining, yet here you are telling us to get lots of equipment. (Non of which the driver uses when driving)
And D, you've not read the full thread. All your points I covered earlier, on groups.
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Although best feed back on rt yet.
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For D.
Nope,don't need any equipment. Except to measure breaking, cones? wet and dry perhaps, but just what weather is on the day will do. Hopefully it will be consistent.
I'll wager, if we group drivers honestly, say 3 groups for arguments sake. Each group will come to the same conclusion, given the chance to drive the same car on each set.
We'll need 3 models of omega in sound mechanical order re suspension and steering and set up.
Mv6
Cdx or CD or Gls etc
Elite
Measure;
ride feel(comfort)
No of corrections at the steering wheel(tramlining)
Braking. (Difficult to get both wet and dry tbh. Wet might mean more)
Lateral load (speed on a constant curve, eg roundabout)
Noise (we have ears)
Easy! :) :-\ ;D
Although I'd accept completely the points on personal preference. As said earlier, if nothing else drivers can pick something out for themselves.
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Although best feed back on rt yet.
Though still not an Omega.... ...but not a massively different car...
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3. You dont feel any tramlining doesnt mean there is not (see my post to Chris).. A tramlining tyre doesnt mean its a bad tyre.. A tramlining car doesnt mean its a bad car..
No, but if on the same car, one tyre tramlines and another doesn't, which tyre is best from a non-tramlining perspective?
And, if that same test using the same tyres is 100% repeatable on a 2nd car?
Surely, that shows its a bad tyre choice (for that car)?
The fact that the SC5 suffers less grip as well is just salt in the wound ;)
when evaluating a tyre, none of the tests include tramlining ;D
ok.. seriously, did you compare their brake distances in wet and dry.. curve abilities.. and whats the percentage of roads in total that cause tramlining ?
I'm afraid tramlining is not the single parameter to evaulate a tyre.. :-\
you dont answer my questions ;)
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Although best feed back on rt yet.
Though still not an Omega.... ...but not a massively different car...
I did say so far. (Spit) ;D
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by the way Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetrics dont tramline ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D or do they ???
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by the way Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetrics dont tramline ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D or do they ???
. And makes you completely unqualified to cure tramlining. ;D
Goodyear own Dunlop, or vice versa.
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by the way Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetrics dont tramline ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D or do they ???
. And makes you completely unqualified to cure tramlining. ;D
Goodyear own Dunlop, or vice versa.
they do ;D rarely ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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but 195 winter tyres never.. :)
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
I cant sleep at nights :( ;D
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
I cant sleep at nights :( ;D
Excellent, I'm off work for a week. :y
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And where's that lightweight D gone. ;D
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So, Cem, this equipment for testing tramlining you said we need but doesn't exist...?
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
I cant sleep at nights :( ;D
Excellent, I'm off work for a week. :y
Good.. Enjoy to spend your time with your family.. :y
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Although best feed back on rt yet.
Though still not an Omega.... ...but not a massively different car...
?...a close enough comparison to warrant £500 plus?
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
I cant sleep at nights :( ;D
Excellent, I'm off work for a week. :y
Good.. Enjoy to spend your time with your family.. :y
No, I will stay up, just to talk to you. Our uk climate expert in Turkey. ;)
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
I cant sleep at nights :( ;D
Excellent, I'm off work for a week. :y
Good.. Enjoy to spend your time with your family.. :y
No, I will stay up, just to talk to you. Our uk climate expert in Turkey. ;)
Here we go again ;D
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
I cant sleep at nights :( ;D
Excellent, I'm off work for a week. :y
Good.. Enjoy to spend your time with your family.. :y
No, I will stay up, just to talk to you. Our uk climate expert in Turkey. ;)
Here we go again ;D
Been saying that since your first post in this thread cem. ::)
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For D.
Nope,don't need any equipment. Except to measure breaking, cones? wet and dry perhaps, but just what weather is on the day will do. Hopefully it will be consistent.
I'll wager, if we group drivers honestly, say 3 groups for arguments sake. Each group will come to the same conclusion, given the chance to drive the same car on each set.
We'll need 3 models of omega in sound mechanical order re suspension and steering and set up.
Mv6
Cdx or CD or Gls etc
Elite
Measure;
ride feel(comfort)
No of corrections at the steering wheel(tramlining)
Braking. (Difficult to get both wet and dry tbh. Wet might mean more)
Lateral load (speed on a constant curve, eg roundabout)
Noise (we have ears)
Easy! :) :-\ ;D
Although I'd accept completely the points on personal preference. As said earlier, if nothing else drivers can pick something out for themselves.
I suppose its possible, if you account for everything. But being a clinical researcher myself, I am aware of the poor concordance when one tries to align subjective feelings. The mechanical aspects are probably easier to account for.
I am obviously comparing symptoms people experience in illness or health, like pain, breathlessness, depression, quality of life etc. Its very hard to find a linear correlation.
Certainly worth trying out though.
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For D.
Nope,don't need any equipment. Except to measure breaking, cones? wet and dry perhaps, but just what weather is on the day will do. Hopefully it will be consistent.
I'll wager, if we group drivers honestly, say 3 groups for arguments sake. Each group will come to the same conclusion, given the chance to drive the same car on each set.
We'll need 3 models of omega in sound mechanical order re suspension and steering and set up.
Mv6
Cdx or CD or Gls etc
Elite
Measure;
ride feel(comfort)
No of corrections at the steering wheel(tramlining)
Braking. (Difficult to get both wet and dry tbh. Wet might mean more)
Lateral load (speed on a constant curve, eg roundabout)
Noise (we have ears)
Easy! :) :-\ ;D
Although I'd accept completely the points on personal preference. As said earlier, if nothing else drivers can pick something out for themselves.
I suppose its possible, if you account for everything. But being a clinical researcher myself, I am aware of the poor concordance when one tries to align subjective feelings. The mechanical aspects are probably easier to account for.
I am obviously comparing symptoms people experience in illness or health, like pain, breathlessness, depression, quality of life etc. Its very hard to find a linear correlation.
Indeed. I'd fully expect a range of opinions within each group, onbiously. With some oddities, ESP if any aturkish members attend. ;) ;D
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cem's not that bad. He just doesnt listen to anyone other than Dr Google. ;D
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
I cant sleep at nights :( ;D
Excellent, I'm off work for a week. :y
Good.. Enjoy to spend your time with your family.. :y
No, I will stay up, just to talk to you. Our uk climate expert in Turkey. ;)
Here we go again ;D
Been saying that since your first post in this thread cem. ::)
You started the subjects of old discussions Chris..not me !
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Cem your being argumentative. ;D
I cant sleep at nights :( ;D
Excellent, I'm off work for a week. :y
Good.. Enjoy to spend your time with your family.. :y
No, I will stay up, just to talk to you. Our uk climate expert in Turkey. ;)
Here we go again ;D
Been saying that since your first post in this thread cem. ::)
You started the subjects of old discussions Chris..not me !
We have never been this close to a tyre test before. Never.
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cem's not that bad. He just doesnt listen to anyone other than Dr Google. ;D
;D maybe Siri can help? ;D
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You two are like a married couple! Stop bickering! ;D
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cem's not that bad. He just doesnt listen to anyone other than Dr Google. ;D
plus his logic filter :y
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You two are like a married couple! Stop bickering! ;D
;D ;D he is my sleep drug ;D :y
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cem's not that bad. He just doesnt listen to anyone other than Dr Google. ;D
plus his logic filter :y
Explains all. ;D
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You two are like a married couple! Stop bickering! ;D
Love him. ::)
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cem's not that bad. He just doesnt listen to anyone other than Dr Google. ;D
plus his logic filter :y
Explains all. ;D
yep.. at least I dont try testing without equipment ;D
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cem's not that bad. He just doesnt listen to anyone other than Dr Google. ;D
plus his logic filter :y
Explains all. ;D
yep.. at least I dont try testing without equipment ;D
that doesn't exist apparently :;)
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cem's not that bad. He just doesnt listen to anyone other than Dr Google. ;D
plus his logic filter :y
Explains all. ;D
yep.. at least I dont try testing without equipment ;D
that doesn't exist apparently :;)
And that was way too slow for such a short reply ;D
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cem's not that bad. He just doesnt listen to anyone other than Dr Google. ;D
plus his logic filter :y
Explains all. ;D
yep.. at least I dont try testing without equipment ;D
that doesn't exist apparently : ;)
And that was way too slow for such a short reply ;D
they exist .. only not for tramlining..
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Chris, playing game words whole night may be ok for you but I have other things.. bye :y
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Chris, playing game words whole night may be ok for you but I have other things.. bye :y
Bye cem. :y
Notifications set ;) phone on silent.
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I wonder what dbug has to say? ;D
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Crikey! This is worse than discussing the merits of gold plated 13A plugs on a Hi-Fi forum. ;D
Damn this subjective stuff. ::)
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Give me size and i'll give you the new ratings if that helps
Andy
Those ratings are absolutely meaningless, sadly, and are detracting from what the tyre manufacturers should be aiming for - grip and longevity, or a sensible compromise thereof. Not wanking around over fuel efficiency, which nobody gives a nants piss over.
Rant over, and breath ;D
The fuel efficiency difference between the very lowest and very highest ratings is around 5%. So, in an Omega, about 1mpg. As most tyres fall in the middle, it makes absolutely break all difference, apart from allowing the greenies to copitulate up their favourite tree.... ....while the rest of us are sliding into said tree, causing far more damage to the environment, if you believe that 'dangle berries'.
Thanks for the offer AndyC, but not required, I have them. Unless you have access to proper comparisons (to Sport Maxx TT)
They are Fuel efficiency: E Wet grip: A Noise: 1 bar 68 dB. Query answered, why are there 10 pages on this? :-*
The new EU tests are brilliant and are scaring some manufacturers witless. Or at least their advertising departments.
The difference in fuel use between an A and a G is 7.5%. That's about £370 a year if you do 20,000 miles a year at 25mpg.
The problem with http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk is that the 'reviews' are just owners saying what they think their tyres behave like. It's not scientific at all.
My guess looking at them is lovely in the wet (top wet grip rating), crap in mud and snow and wet grass.
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Give me size and i'll give you the new ratings if that helps
Andy
Those ratings are absolutely meaningless, sadly, and are detracting from what the tyre manufacturers should be aiming for - grip and longevity, or a sensible compromise thereof. Not wanking around over fuel efficiency, which nobody gives a nants piss over.
Rant over, and breath ;D
The fuel efficiency difference between the very lowest and very highest ratings is around 5%. So, in an Omega, about 1mpg. As most tyres fall in the middle, it makes absolutely break all difference, apart from allowing the greenies to copitulate up their favourite tree.... ....while the rest of us are sliding into said tree, causing far more damage to the environment, if you believe that 'dangle berries'.
Thanks for the offer AndyC, but not required, I have them. Unless you have access to proper comparisons (to Sport Maxx TT)
They are Fuel efficiency: E Wet grip: A Noise: 1 bar 68 dB. Query answered, why are there 10 pages on this? :-*
The new EU tests are brilliant and are scaring some manufacturers witless. Or at least their advertising departments.
The difference in fuel use between an A and a G is 7.5%. That's about £370 a year if you do 20,000 miles a year at 25mpg.
The problem with http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk is that the 'reviews' are just owners saying what they think their tyres behave like. It's not scientific at all.
My guess looking at them is lovely in the wet (top wet grip rating), crap in mud and snow and wet grass.
Problem is, the sc5 where purchased by looking at very similar info. Based on a previous older model working well.
And turned out to be a nightmare. Would you spend another £5-700 odd quid again based in that experience? No I wouldn't either, hence the post for first hand experience.
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::)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIy8VBYZiJM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIy8VBYZiJM)
do I see correct ??? its reaching lateral 1.0g :o
give me this tyre anyday ;D :y
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::)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIy8VBYZiJM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIy8VBYZiJM)
do I see correct ??? its reaching lateral 1.0g :o
give me this tyre anyday ;D :y
Maybe TB should complain, his omega didn't turn into a Porsche when he fitted sc5 ;D
I'm here all week. ;)
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And anyway, TB would kicks his arse on TT. ;D
-
::)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIy8VBYZiJM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIy8VBYZiJM)
do I see correct ??? its reaching lateral 1.0g :o
give me this tyre anyday ;D :y
Maybe TB should complain, his omega didn't turn into a Porsche when he fitted sc5 ;D
I'm here all week. ;)
Fine, you have time to read this(these) :) ;D
"Most writers call this quantity `slip angle.' I think this name is misleading because it suggests that a tire works by slipping and sliding. The truth is more complicated. Near maximum loads, the contact patch is partly gripping and partly slipping. The maximum net force a tire can yield occurs at the threshold where the tire is still gripping but is just about to give way to total slipping. Also, I have some difficulties with the analyses of slip angle in the literature. I will present these difficulties in these articles, unfortunately, probably without resolution. For these reasons, I give the quantity a new name.
A tire is an elastic or deformable body. It delivers forces to the car by stretching, compressing, and twisting. It is thus a very complex sort of spring with several different ways, or modes, of deformation. The hypothetical tire implied by (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/physics_racing/part10_files/_9409_tex2html_wrap69.gif) with constant (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/physics_racing/part10_files/_9409_tex2html_wrap65.gif) would be a non-elastic tire. Anyone who has driven hard tires on ice knows that non-elastic tires are basically uncontrollable, not just because (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/physics_racing/part10_files/_9409_tex2html_wrap65.gif) is small but because regular tires on ice do not twist appreciably.
The first and most obvious mode of derformation is radial. This deformation is along the radius of the tire, the line from the center to the tread. It is easily visible as a bulge in the sidewall near the contact patch, where the tire touches the ground. Thus, radial compression varies around the circumference.
Second is circumferential deformation. This is most easily visble as wrinkling of the sidewalls of drag tires. These tires are intentionally set up to deform dramatically in the circumferential direction.
Third is axial deformation. This is a deflection that tends to pull the tire off the (non-elastic) wheel or rim.
Last, and most important for cornering, is torsional deformation. This is a difference in axial deflection from the front to the back of the contact patch. Fundamentally, radial, circumferential, and axial deformation furnish a complete description of a tire. But it is very useful to consider the differencesin these deflections around the circumference.
Let us examine exactly how a tire delivers cornering force to the car. We can get a good intuition into the physics with a pencil eraser. Get a block eraser, of the rectangular kind like `Pink Pearl' or `Magic Rub.' Stand it up on a table or desk and think of it as a little segment of the circumference of a tire. Think of the part touching the desk as the contact patch. Grab the top of the eraser and think of your hand as the wheel or rim, which is going to push, pull, and twist on the segment of tire circumference as we go along the following analysis. "
from
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/physics_racing/part10.htm (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/physics_racing/part10.htm)
total
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/physics_racing/ (http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/physics_racing/)
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and I find this post quite interesting
"The school physics books tell you that the coefficient of friction is a constant, but in reality this is an oversimplification. In the case of tyres, the coefficient of friction drops off as you increase the weight on the wheel. This is why you can tune a car's handling by adjusting the anti-roll bar, and also why you *can't* tune with anti-roll bars if the load on the tyres is too small (the vehicle is overtyred).
Because of this, the bigger the contact patch the more grip you can get. In a drag race, dropping the tyre pressure increases the contact patch area and increases grip. Even on road bikes you will see people dropping the tyre pressure to almost nothing for the absolute maximum grip down the strip.
BUT, when you look at lateral grip (side force) other factors start to matter. The tyre develops side force because of the slip angle between the tyre and the road. This slip angle means the tread is being pulled sideways by the road surface. At the front of the contact patch the deflection is relatively small. As you move back along the contact patch the deflection increases steadily. At some point, the sideways forces in the tyre exceed the friction between the tread and the road and the tread starts to slip relative to the road. When the tread is slipping like this it produces less grip on the road. Now imagine increasing the slip angle and imagine what effect this has on the side force. As the slip angle increases the sideways deflection builds up quicker so the front of the contact patch works harder. But more and more of the back of the contact patch is sliding and losing grip. At some point you reach a maximum point where more slip angle means less side force because you are losing more grip at the rear of the contact patch that you are gaining at the front. This is often referred to as 'breaking away' where you ask the tyre for more grip and end up getting less.
The longer the contact patch is, the more gradually this break away occurs. If you shorten the contact patch, the break away occurs more abruptly but you get more absolute grip at the peak. This is because there is less variation in sideways distortion between the front and back of the contact patch, more of the contact patch reaches maximum grip and starts to slide at the same point. Having a shorter contact patch also means you get less self-aligning torque so there is less feedback through the steering about how close the tyres are to breaking away.
When you fit wider tyres, what you're doing is making the contact patch wider and shorter for the same tyre pressure. This means you get a more abrupt breakaway but more grip right on the limit. The disadvantage is more expensive tyres, more tramlining and steering kickback, more wind and rolling resistance and noise, less grip in slippery conditions, a more abrupt breakaway to catch out the unwary driver and less warning through the steering about how close the tyres are to breaking away. "
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Not read it yet, cut and paste helps no one.
Having spoken to Dunlop, again, matching tyres to a specific chassis is absolutely key. Hence manufacturers approve a tyre specific to that model.
Eg ...There is no guarantee a tyre that works on a golf, will work on an omega.
Now to read. :)
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Not read it yet, cut and paste helps no one.
Having spoken to Dunlop, again, matching tyres to a specific chassis is absolutely key. Hence manufacturers approve a tyre specific to that model.
Eg ...There is no guarantee a tyre that works on a golf, will work on an omega.
Now to read. :)
dont know who you talk to but he did tell you story ;D
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Cem quoting random segments from google helps nobody, we know enough about slip angle. Thanks.
I'll ask again, how do you explain the tram lining oddity on sc3 mo /ao1?
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Not read it yet, cut and paste helps no one.
Having spoken to Dunlop, again, matching tyres to a specific chassis is absolutely key. Hence manufacturers approve a tyre specific to that model.
Eg ...There is no guarantee a tyre that works on a golf, will work on an omega.
Now to read. :)
dont know who you talk to but he did tell you story ;D
Again your an expert on something you have no experience of.
A term In uk " knows everything, knows nothing" almost aplies.
As always, every answer under the sun except a helpful one.
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::)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIy8VBYZiJM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIy8VBYZiJM)
do I see correct ??? its reaching lateral 1.0g :o
give me this tyre anyday ;D :y
And this clip shows straight line stability for about 2 seconds. While the passenger has clearly never been on a circuit before ;D
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Not read it yet, cut and paste helps no one.
Having spoken to Dunlop, again, matching tyres to a specific chassis is absolutely key. Hence manufacturers approve a tyre specific to that model.
Eg ...There is no guarantee a tyre that works on a golf, will work on an omega.
Now to read. :)
dont know who you talk to but he did tell you story ;D
You kniw something Dunlop uk technical support don't?
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I think its safe to say this is a tram-lining problem.
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Cem quoting random segments from google helps nobody, we know enough about slip angle. Thanks.
I'll ask again, how do you explain the tram lining oddity on sc3 mo /ao1?
look at my answer post to Mr Admin.. n unknowns ..
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Cem quoting random segments from google helps nobody, we know enough about slip angle. Thanks.
I'll ask again, how do you explain the tram lining oddity on sc3 mo /ao1?
look at my answer post to Mr Admin.. n unknowns ..
Not sure which one? Can you post a link or quote? :)
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Hence the need for a tyre test to establish which tyres in each price group are well suited to the Omega ::)
If budget tyres perform comparably then those who usually spend more on tyres might save something. Equally, if budget tyres are useless, then people might consider spending more on tyres that cost a bit more...
But that won't mean that tyres found to be good will suit other cars/chassis arrangements :y
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im getting some barum bravuris 2 fitted to the front of my mv6 today, so will see later how they perform
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Hence the need for a tyre test to establish which tyres in each price group are well suited to the Omega ::)
If budget tyres perform comparably then those who usually spend more on tyres might save something. Equally, if budget tyres are useless, then people might consider spending more on tyres that cost a bit more...
But that won't mean that tyres found to be good will suit other cars/chassis arrangements :y
forget about that.. its all down to rubber..
-
Hence the need for a tyre test to establish which tyres in each price group are well suited to the Omega ::)
If budget tyres perform comparably then those who usually spend more on tyres might save something. Equally, if budget tyres are useless, then people might consider spending more on tyres that cost a bit more...
But that won't mean that tyres found to be good will suit other cars/chassis arrangements :y
forget about that.. its all down to rubber..
....and suspension, geometry, bushes. The Chassis.
Here is the number for Dunlop technical. 0845 3453 453. Ring them.
....and god help them if you do. ;D
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Hence the need for a tyre test to establish which tyres in each price group are well suited to the Omega ::)
If budget tyres perform comparably then those who usually spend more on tyres might save something. Equally, if budget tyres are useless, then people might consider spending more on tyres that cost a bit more...
But that won't mean that tyres found to be good will suit other cars/chassis arrangements :y
forget about that.. its all down to rubber..
....and suspension, geometry, bushes. The Chassis.
Here is the number for Dunlop technical. 0845 3453 453. Ring them.
....and god help them if you do. ;D
;D I'm a capricorn.. ;D sadly :-\
-
Hence the need for a tyre test to establish which tyres in each price group are well suited to the Omega ::)
If budget tyres perform comparably then those who usually spend more on tyres might save something. Equally, if budget tyres are useless, then people might consider spending more on tyres that cost a bit more...
But that won't mean that tyres found to be good will suit other cars/chassis arrangements :y
forget about that.. its all down to rubber..
....and suspension, geometry, bushes. The Chassis.
Here is the number for Dunlop technical. 0845 3453 453. Ring them.
....and god help them if you do. ;D
;D I'm a capricorn.. ;D sadly :-\
Do the stars give the answer to tramlining per chance? Mr factual engineer google bot. :)
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Hence the need for a tyre test to establish which tyres in each price group are well suited to the Omega ::)
If budget tyres perform comparably then those who usually spend more on tyres might save something. Equally, if budget tyres are useless, then people might consider spending more on tyres that cost a bit more...
But that won't mean that tyres found to be good will suit other cars/chassis arrangements :y
forget about that.. its all down to rubber..
....and suspension, geometry, bushes. The Chassis.
Here is the number for Dunlop technical. 0845 3453 453. Ring them.
....and god help them if you do. ;D
;D I'm a capricorn.. ;D sadly :-\
Do the stars give the answer to tramlining per chance? Mr factual engineer google bot. :)
nope.. you know what , if we had the F1 equipment , we could solve..Mr Admin is not that far from the track.. may be a night visit can sort the problem ;D
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Does google tell us which tyres will tramline on omegas, and which ones don't?
-
Not yet ::)
-
Does google tell us which tyres will tramline on omegas, and which ones don't?
all wide tyres will tramline, less or more..
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Not yet ::)
As Rutger Hauer said in blade runner.
"THAT'S THE SPIRIT" :y
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Does google tell us which tyres will tramline on omegas, and which ones don't?
all wide tyres will tramline, less or more..
Does google give the definition of an idiot cem?
Let me save you the trouble. Its;
Doing the exact same thing over and over, and expecting a different result.
Again, please explain why a wider 245 does not ram line, and the narrower 235 sc3 does.
?... explain why sc5 tram line on omega. And TT don't in the EXACT SAME SIZE.
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Does google tell us which tyres will tramline on omegas, and which ones don't?
all wide tyres will tramline, less or more..
Does google give the definition of an idiot cem?
Let me save you the trouble. Its;
Doing the exact same thing over and over, and expecting a different result.
Again, please explain why a wider 245 does not ram line, and the narrower 235 sc3 does.
?... explain why sc5 tram line on omega. And TT don't in the EXACT SAME SIZE.
Your next post will define idiocy.
-
Does google tell us which tyres will tramline on omegas, and which ones don't?
all wide tyres will tramline, less or more..
Does google give the definition of an idiot cem?
Let me save you the trouble. Its;
Doing the exact same thing over and over, and expecting a different result.
Again, please explain why a wider 245 does not ram line, and the narrower 235 sc3 does.
?... explain why sc5 tram line on omega. And TT don't in the EXACT SAME SIZE.
be calm Chris.. give me those 245s , I will show you how it will tramline on a proper road..
-
Does google tell us which tyres will tramline on omegas, and which ones don't?
all wide tyres will tramline, less or more..
Does google give the definition of an idiot cem?
Let me save you the trouble. Its;
Doing the exact same thing over and over, and expecting a different result.
Again, please explain why a wider 245 does not ram line, and the narrower 235 sc3 does.
?... explain why sc5 tram line on omega. And TT don't in the EXACT SAME SIZE.
be calm Chris.. give me those 245s , I will show you how it will tramline on a proper road..
yeah, that's what I thought.
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OK, this is going nowhere fast.
We know that tyre review sites that are not testing on Omegas are of no use to us - I have a £700 credit card bill, and awful tyres to prove that. People saying they were a good tyre without even trying them didn't help in my decision making for this expensive mistake :'(
I get to drive lots of Omegas, some really a credit to their owners, some are sheds. I have a fantastic route around these parts, made up of rough country lane, fast road with sweepers, and some fast, windey lanes. Completed with speed bumps. This tests all aspects.
The best tyres I have found for the Omega have been Dunlop Sport SP9000, and its successor, Dunlop Sport Maxx TT. The worse I've found is Michelin PS2 (tramline, low lateral grip, awesome braking), SC5 (tramline, unstable under braking, average grip) and Avon ZV3 (low grip).
Based on that, just shy of £500 worth of RT are going on the Silver Bullet at the weekend. That will be £1200 in 5 months on tyres >:(