Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: feeutfo on 11 March 2013, 23:21:19
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If you have tyres with a 97 load rating please give us a review. With the specific emphasis on the presence of tram lining/wander lust/lack of directional stability in a straight line.
In other words, does the car drive straight with them fitted...? And if you have XL (Extra Load) please mention this too.
Along with the make and model. :y
Thankyou in advance. :)
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And apologies for flooding car chat with these tyre threads, there is a reason. :)
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Budget tyes westlake 235 45 17 97w xl. running straight with no problems so far :y
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Pretty sure the 205 / 65 / 15's on the old shed was 97's and always tracked very true.
Even if you did get seasick in corners.
In fact, once you got used to the rolly polly motion, it could be thrown around with great confidence :)
The 235/45/17's on the new shed dart around like a badger on heat with the slightest imperfection.
I tried dropping the pressure down from 34 psi to 32 psi and it made then much worse >:(
Not sure of the make but i'm pretty sure there is a mixture on there
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I'm sure mine are 97's. Those funny "triangle" named rubber. Seem ok no traming but god they are noisy
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Thanks guys, but next time your stood next to the car, can you varifying the exact load rating? In fact, may as well note everything while your there I guess.
Make, model, size, load rating, speed rating.
But we do need to be sure, I think. :) ( if that's not a contradiction ;D )
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Runway Enduro 916+ 97W XL in 225/55/16, 235/45/17 and 245/40/18
All three sizes drive true, although the 18s were a bit floaty at full load pressures, (other item notwithstanding), dropped to 34/40 psi and now much more planted :y
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In case anyone is wondering why I'm asking. Possibly not but anyway...
Reason behind it is TramLining related, surprise surprise. The causes of TL are said to be too rigid a side wall transmitting road imperfections through the side wall. Thus pushing the steering off line via the rim, which the driver has to correct, which is highly irritating and in extreme cases threatens safety.
I'm wondering if in fact, that the opposite is true. That if the sidewall is too soft, the tread of the tyre can be pulled out of line, where as a stiffer sidewall would keep the tread in line with the wheel and keep the car straighter, and irritating the driver less with less imperfections in direction.
There's seems to be alot of 97 load tyres that behave well with directional stability on this car.
Just a thought any way. :)
It could be that 97's misbehave As much as any other tyre. :-\
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I generally run XL tyres (in the past) because of towing but I've never had the geometry done on this car (it's not far out by the feel, but not perfect) so not in a position to comment.
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Sorry........but my MV6 sits on 94Y.
What is the practical difference between a 94Y and a 97Y?
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Not sure Opti.
Afaik the omega ideal load rating is 94/95, but with a continually fully loaded car, it might be sensible to increase that to 97, and if towing add XL.
But it's just a number really, it's what works that counts I suppose. Ultimately that's all we can do here I suspect, and as others have said.
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When I buy tyres I take very careful notice of the numbers on the end:
XXX/XX/XX XXx £45.00 ;D
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2.2 Saloon running:
Accelera Alpha
225/55ZR/16 99W XL
Don`t know whether it helps in your deductions/assumptions/thoughts but tyres are 99 load index as opposed to your request for 97 but they run true with absolutely no tramling, ditchfinding, "floatiness" or wandering. All running @ 32-33 psi
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2.2 Saloon running:
Accelera Alpha
225/55ZR/16 99W XL
Don`t know whether it helps in your deductions/assumptions/thoughts but tyres are 99 load index as opposed to your request for 97 but they run true with absolutely no tramling, ditchfinding, "floatiness" or wandering. All running @ 32-33 psi
Thinking about it, I found the same on my saloon with same tyres :y
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Was tempted not to reply, as not 97, but are XL
SC5 235/40/18 95Y XL. Yes, they tramline a tad ;D
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2.2 Saloon running:
Accelera Alpha
225/55ZR/16 99W XL
Don`t know whether it helps in your deductions/assumptions/thoughts but tyres are 99 load index as opposed to your request for 97 but they run true with absolutely no tramling, ditchfinding, "floatiness" or wandering. All running @ 32-33 psi
Same @ 34 psi all round on Elite Saloon and 34 F 36R on Elite Estate
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a softer sidewall will be your friend in reducing tramlining.
the road surface is the input, and how the whole width of the contact patch reacts is the key. A softer sidewall will allow more flex and mitigate the surface irregularities.
I have the MV6 on Forceum 235s at the moment - 97W and XL. No hint of tramlining. Indeed, it's one of the best-handling cars I've ever driven.
Prior to that, the car was on Accelera Alpha - again 97W. no hint of tramlining. I put those tyres on my 3.2 Estate afterwards, which didn't change its rampant tramlining.
hope this helps in your quest
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as you probably know, I'm convinced that the secret is in the car set-up. I could bring this set of tyres to airfield day for you to try on yours if you'd like
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a softer sidewall will be your friend in reducing tramlining.
the road surface is the input, and how the whole width of the contact patch reacts is the key. A softer sidewall will allow more flex and mitigate the surface irregularities.
I have the MV6 on Forceum 235s at the moment - 97W and XL. No hint of tramlining. Indeed, it's one of the best-handling cars I've ever driven.
Prior to that, the car was on Accelera Alpha - again 97W. no hint of tramlining. I put those tyres on my 3.2 Estate afterwards, which didn't change its rampant tramlining.
hope this helps in your quest
One might be lead to ask, regarding the set and condition of the estate...? But that could be a little insulting to someone who knows as much about these cars as yourself. But it does imply a fault on that car. :(
And to your second post, yes please. ANYTHING that helps nail this bugger down will be great.
We may have access to a tyre fitter, btw.
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a softer sidewall will be your friend in reducing tramlining.
the road surface is the input, and how the whole width of the contact patch reacts is the key. A softer sidewall will allow more flex and mitigate the surface irregularities.
I have the MV6 on Forceum 235s at the moment - 97W and XL. No hint of tramlining. Indeed, it's one of the best-handling cars I've ever driven.
Prior to that, the car was on Accelera Alpha - again 97W. no hint of tramlining. I put those tyres on my 3.2 Estate afterwards, which didn't change its rampant tramlining.
hope this helps in your quest
See... I agree with the physical reasons that stiffer sidewall would make a car more prone to tram line but it appears that the XL tyres are more stable :-\ :-\
Edit: And I also appreciate your experience and knowledge of car performance :y
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I would add, I am a cake and eat it type of guy, as I've said so often before. So I will expect to be able to keep my current set up, 18's etc. and have it drive straight. I appreciate that makes the job harder.
But I know you like a challenge. ;)
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One might be lead to ask, regarding the set and condition of the estate...? But that could be a little insulting to someone who knows as much about these cars as yourself. But it does imply a fault on that car. :(
And to your second post, yes please. ANYTHING that helps nail this bugger down will be great.
We may have access to a tyre fitter, btw.
The estate is the only car I've got that's been to WiM. I've had the set-up re-checked recently, too. There will be something wrong in the front suspension somewhere which is the cause of the tramlining. All pretty immaterial really as that car is now my steering rack experiment......
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The only reason I can see for the main tendency to tramline is collective play (if you exclude the potential for the rear thrust angle to throw things off by getting it right). The steering has what, 4 ball joints, 2 pivots, plus the play in the box... Plenty of scope for a little play in each component to add up to a lot
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I would add, I am a cake and eat it type of guy, as I've said so often before. So I will expect to be able to keep my current set up, 18's etc. and have it drive straight. I appreciate that makes the job harder.
But I know you like a challenge. ;)
if it were up to me, I'd look for a problem in the front suspension geometry ( including wishbone bushes ). I know you've had this done and are convinced there's nothing wrong - I really am not trying to start a riot here, that's my professional opinion.
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I would add, I am a cake and eat it type of guy, as I've said so often before. So I will expect to be able to keep my current set up, 18's etc. and have it drive straight. I appreciate that makes the job harder.
But I know you like a challenge. ;)
if it were up to me, I'd look for a problem in the front suspension geometry ( including wishbone bushes ). I know you've had this done and are convinced there's nothing wrong - I really am not trying to start a riot here, that's my professional opinion.
Yes, but as said, the difference is, when non tram lining tyres are fitted, it doesn't tram line. It IS the tyres.
However if the opposite where true, as in the car tramlines no matter what's fitted, that points to the car, to my mind.
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I would add, I am a cake and eat it type of guy, as I've said so often before. So I will expect to be able to keep my current set up, 18's etc. and have it drive straight. I appreciate that makes the job harder.
But I know you like a challenge. ;)
if it were up to me, I'd look for a problem in the front suspension geometry ( including wishbone bushes ). I know you've had this done and are convinced there's nothing wrong - I really am not trying to start a riot here, that's my professional opinion.
Yes, but as said, the difference is, when non tram lining tyres are fitted, it doesn't tram line. It IS the tyres.
However if the opposite where true, as in the car tramlines no matter what's fitted, that points to the car, to my mind.
to be sure of that you have to decrement the size 225, 215,205 .. if it doesnt decrease car is #1 candidate..
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I would add, I am a cake and eat it type of guy, as I've said so often before. So I will expect to be able to keep my current set up, 18's etc. and have it drive straight. I appreciate that makes the job harder.
But I know you like a challenge. ;)
if it were up to me, I'd look for a problem in the front suspension geometry ( including wishbone bushes ). I know you've had this done and are convinced there's nothing wrong - I really am not trying to start a riot here, that's my professional opinion.
Yes, but as said, the difference is, when non tram lining tyres are fitted, it doesn't tram line. It IS the tyres.
However if the opposite where true, as in the car tramlines no matter what's fitted, that points to the car, to my mind.
to be sure of that you have to decrement the size 225, 215,205 .. if it doesnt decrease car is #1 candidate..
If the tyres don't tram line on one omega, its not the tyre. If the estate has a set up issue or fault that causes tram lining, it won't matter what tyre is fitted.
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But 2woody doesn't need us lot teaching him to suck eggs. ;)
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I would add, I am a cake and eat it type of guy, as I've said so often before. So I will expect to be able to keep my current set up, 18's etc. and have it drive straight. I appreciate that makes the job harder.
But I know you like a challenge. ;)
if it were up to me, I'd look for a problem in the front suspension geometry ( including wishbone bushes ). I know you've had this done and are convinced there's nothing wrong - I really am not trying to start a riot here, that's my professional opinion.
Yes, but as said, the difference is, when non tram lining tyres are fitted, it doesn't tram line. It IS the tyres.
However if the opposite where true, as in the car tramlines no matter what's fitted, that points to the car, to my mind.
to be sure of that you have to decrement the size 225, 215,205 .. if it doesnt decrease car is #1 candidate..
If the tyres don't tram line on one omega, its not the tyre.
thats correct..
If the estate has a set up issue or fault that causes tram lining, it won't matter what tyre is fitted.
not with narrow tyres..
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I would add, I am a cake and eat it type of guy, as I've said so often before. So I will expect to be able to keep my current set up, 18's etc. and have it drive straight. I appreciate that makes the job harder.
But I know you like a challenge. ;)
if it were up to me, I'd look for a problem in the front suspension geometry ( including wishbone bushes ). I know you've had this done and are convinced there's nothing wrong - I really am not trying to start a riot here, that's my professional opinion.
Yes, but as said, the difference is, when non tram lining tyres are fitted, it doesn't tram line. It IS the tyres.
However if the opposite where true, as in the car tramlines no matter what's fitted, that points to the car, to my mind.
to be sure of that you have to decrement the size 225, 215,205 .. if it doesnt decrease car is #1 candidate..
If the tyres don't tram line on one omega, its not the tyre.
thats correct..
If the estate has a set up issue or fault that causes tram lining, it won't matter what tyre is fitted.
not with narrow tyres..
...so much.
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Can't agree about the width of tyres, I used to own a Carlton 3ltr 24v Gsi, the tyres on that were wider than the Omegas, and that didn't tramline.
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Continental Sports contact 3 Mo (Mercedes Only) 265 35 r18 97Y Extra load. Rear on a 9j sports star Rim.
No tram lining. At all. ;)
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Continental Sports contact 3 Ao1(Audi only)
235 45 ZR18 Extra load. ...no other markings to indicate load.
Same tread pattern as Mo. Tram lines but acceptable. Almost.
No idea what the load rating is for this tyre. What does ZR mean?
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Z is speed rating ;)
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How to read what load rating this is?
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/CF783626-4CC8-4B08-834D-DC6F79240301-3581-000001B6745F3701_zps0a189e0c.jpg)
Outer edge wear is the increased toe setting to minimise tram lining, it is a result of tramlining, not the cause...,and roundabouts, btw.
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Right I have 3 Talons 235/45/17 97 and one very old looking Michelin 235/45/17 94. Work on the car is rear air shocks 12 k miles. Rear poly donuts 1 k miles. New genuine rear springs 15k miles.Going through all the recites the car has had no work to the front suspension. Steering is very tight but the front suspension does groan and creek however front wheel bearings done within 300 miles. I suffer no tramlining. or twitchy handling. Mis matched tyres are on the rear. I have an LSD fitted but it was the same with an open diff. I'm not suffering any uneven wear in fact I've got to throw one of the tyres away because it's perished not worn out. Next I'm going to change the wheels for 18" Irmys and eventually I want to drop the suspension on MV6 FL springs but keep the air shocks to deal with the LPG tank. Oh and fitting the LPG tank the extra weight didn't make any difference. So really my front suspension is worn at 73k miles and needs new shocks and wishbones.
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How to read what load rating this is?
(http://i344.photobucket.com/albums/p326/chrisgixer/CF783626-4CC8-4B08-834D-DC6F79240301-3581-000001B6745F3701_zps0a189e0c.jpg)
Outer edge wear is the increased toe setting to minimise tram lining, it is a result of tramlining, not the cause...,and roundabouts, btw.
They're Extra Load but don't look to have the numerical figure in that shot :-\
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Continental Sports contact 3 Ao1(Audi only)
235 45 ZR18 Extra load. ...no other markings to indicate load.
Same tread pattern as Mo. Tram lines but acceptable. Almost.
No idea what the load rating is for this tyre. What does ZR mean?
Hope this helps you understand tyre markings, speed ratings, loadings etc - http://www.northstaffstyreandbattery.co.uk/tyre_markings_stoke_on_trent_5.html (http://www.northstaffstyreandbattery.co.uk/tyre_markings_stoke_on_trent_5.html) ;)
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In the (very) small print there should be a max load in kgs/lbs :-[
I would expect somewhere between 670 and 730kgs :y
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the load rating will be on the tyre - you just haven't photographed it.
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Ok, I'll have a look. Tomorrow. :)
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Linglongs 245 40 18 zr 97w. No tram lining. (Lethal in the wet, buz on the brakes)
P zero, 235 45 17 r 97w rear. Westlake 235 45 ZR17 97W M+S front, on Pauls 2.6 estate. No tram lining.
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In the (very) small print there should be a max load in kgs/lbs :-[
I would expect somewhere between 670 and 730kgs :y
Ao1 max load 690kg
Which according to Dbugs chart is 95 load rating.
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Thanks to Dbug btw. :y
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Thanks to Dbug btw. :y
No problem - couldn't have you recommending tyres without understanding tyre markings, speed ratings or loadings ;)
Pleased to have helped
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Thanks to Dbug btw. :y
No problem - couldn't have you recommending tyres without understanding tyre markings, speed ratings or loadings ;)
?...well, this is it, tram lining is caused by too firm a tyre. Too firm a side wall. Not absorbing road imperfections and transmitting them to the rim/steering/driver. (Plus the other reasons most of which we've covered) according to the trade and "general" rules accepted re tram lining. As I understand it anyway...?
But are we seeing the vast majority of tram lining issues occurring on load ratings at 95 and below....? Some 95's are fine, some 94s and 93s are fine. But perhaps we start delving into lower softer construction ratings that might give issues. Under rated tyres effectively.
Do we, in fact, need to be looking on average at a firmer side wall/load rating, for the weight of this car?
The danger there might be that we might get into the real harsh side wall that makes a tyre bump over when fully loaded with lateral grip, doesn't absorb small bumps but bounces off them etc.
SMD's issues aside for a minute.
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Thanks to Dbug btw. :y
No problem - couldn't have you recommending tyres without understanding tyre markings, speed ratings or loadings ;)
?...well, this is it, tram lining is caused by too firm a tyre. Too firm a side wall. Not absorbing road imperfections and transmitting them to the rim/steering/driver. (Plus the other reasons most of which we've covered) according to the trade and "general" rules accepted re tram lining. As I understand it anyway...?
But are we seeing the vast majority of tram lining issues occurring on load ratings at 95 and below....? Some 95's are fine, some 94s and 93s are fine. But perhaps we start delving into lower softer construction ratings that might give issues. Under rated tyres effectively.
Do we, in fact, need to be looking on average at a firmer side wall/load rating, for the weight of this car?
The danger there might be that we might get into the real harsh side wall that makes a tyre bump over when fully loaded with lateral grip, doesn't absorb small bumps but bounces off them etc.
SMD's issues aside for a minute.
You're just starting to get there, but thats only part of the story :y
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Dbug, do you know the answers to this, after all the agro we've had on here with tram lining, yet said nothing?
I fully appreciate that there's a number of factors involved btw. :)
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Dbug, do you know the answers to this, after all the agro we've had on here with tram lining, yet said nothing?
I fully appreciate that there's a number of factors involved btw. :)
Believe so but you thought you knew better, so I wasn't prepared to post as you become aggressive and rude when people disagree with you. As has been mentioned I used to be involved in projects re tyre rubber compositions, as well as practically testing tyres for Dunlop and a well known race and sports car manufacturer. But you know better. However I have pm'd my opinions, in confidence, to another OOF member a while back.
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Dbug, do you know the answers to this, after all the agro we've had on here with tram lining, yet said nothing?
I fully appreciate that there's a number of factors involved btw. :)
Believe so but you thought you knew better, so I wasn't prepared to post as you become aggressive and rude when people disagree with you. As has been mentioned I used to be involved in projects re tyre rubber compositions, as well as practically testing tyres for Dunlop and a well known race and sports car manufacturer. But you know better. However I have pm'd my opinions, in confidence, to another OOF member a while back.
Doesn't suprise me at all Dbug. I actually get hacked off with obnoxious unpleasant attitudes. Something you've displayed as long as I've been a member here. Trouble is, IMO, I tend to respond in kind when I encounter them. That much I will accept. Quite happily. Although clearly, you won't.
Anyway. Your info won't be relevant unless it was tested on an omega. So no worries there. ;) ;D
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Dbug, do you know the answers to this, after all the agro we've had on here with tram lining, yet said nothing?
I fully appreciate that there's a number of factors involved btw. :)
Believe so but you thought you knew better, so I wasn't prepared to post as you become aggressive and rude when people disagree with you. As has been mentioned I used to be involved in projects re tyre rubber compositions, as well as practically testing tyres for Dunlop and a well known race and sports car manufacturer. But you know better. However I have pm'd my opinions, in confidence, to another OOF member a while back.
Doesn't suprise me at all Dbug. I actually get hacked off with obnoxious unpleasant attitudes. Something you've displayed as long as I've been a member here. Trouble is, IMO, I tend to respond in kind when I encounter them. That much I will accept. Quite happily. Although clearly, you won't.
Anyway. Your info won't be relevant unless it was tested on an omega. So no worries there. ;) ;D
No problem mate - as my info is not relevant, you continue on your way as your knowledge and experience on tyres, and their performance and testing, is obviously far greater than mine. Glad to have helped you understand tyre markings, speed ratings and loadings.
I think the above highlights apply to you more than me ;)
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Dbug, do you know the answers to this, after all the agro we've had on here with tram lining, yet said nothing?
I fully appreciate that there's a number of factors involved btw. :)
Believe so but you thought you knew better, so I wasn't prepared to post as you become aggressive and rude when people disagree with you. As has been mentioned I used to be involved in projects re tyre rubber compositions, as well as practically testing tyres for Dunlop and a well known race and sports car manufacturer. But you know better. However I have pm'd my opinions, in confidence, to another OOF member a while back.
Doesn't suprise me at all Dbug. I actually get hacked off with obnoxious unpleasant attitudes. Something you've displayed as long as I've been a member here. Trouble is, IMO, I tend to respond in kind when I encounter them. That much I will accept. Quite happily. Although clearly, you won't.
Anyway. Your info won't be relevant unless it was tested on an omega. So no worries there. ;) ;D
No problem mate - as my info is not relevant, you continue on your way as your knowledge and experience on tyres, and their performance and testing, is obviously far greater than mine. Glad to have helped you understand tyre markings, speed ratings and loadings.
I think the above highlights apply to you more than me ;)
Oh ffs, would you like us to get a room together? Or prefer to take your toys off and play elsewhere. Man up.
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Dbug, do you know the answers to this, after all the agro we've had on here with tram lining, yet said nothing?
I fully appreciate that there's a number of factors involved btw. :)
Believe so but you thought you knew better, so I wasn't prepared to post as you become aggressive and rude when people disagree with you. As has been mentioned I used to be involved in projects re tyre rubber compositions, as well as practically testing tyres for Dunlop and a well known race and sports car manufacturer. But you know better. However I have pm'd my opinions, in confidence, to another OOF member a while back.
Doesn't suprise me at all Dbug. I actually get hacked off with obnoxious unpleasant attitudes. Something you've displayed as long as I've been a member here. Trouble is, IMO, I tend to respond in kind when I encounter them. That much I will accept. Quite happily. Although clearly, you won't.
Anyway. Your info won't be relevant unless it was tested on an omega. So no worries there. ;) ;D
No problem mate - as my info is not relevant, you continue on your way as your knowledge and experience on tyres, and their performance and testing, is obviously far greater than mine. Glad to have helped you understand tyre markings, speed ratings and loadings.
I think the above highlights apply to you more than me ;)
Oh ffs, would you like us to get a room together? Or prefer to take your toys off and play elsewhere. Man up.
I've given my reasons for not posting technically on these many tyre threads, yet you still make unpleasant and personal posts - so I won't be further goaded by you - as always I'll let you have the last word :)
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Any one else with input on load ratings?
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Only that if we're saying hi load ratings are causing tram lining how come the Falkerns suffer? They are 94/95 unless you buy the 453 will you get a 97 load ratings
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Only that if we're saying hi load ratings are causing tram lining how come the Falkerns suffer? They are 94/95 unless you buy the 453 will you get a 97 load ratings
Currently working on the theory that higher load ratings "might" TL "less", not checked Falkens listings, but I guess they do a range of a few different loads. I have a FALKEN 912 here with a 92 rating, for example.
Unfortunately I don't have records of the Falkens I owned, other than knowing they where 451, 452 and 912 in stock sizes. I don't know the load ratings of them but memory is telling me 93. But then my memory is not to be trusted.
All those models felt like water balloons on each corner from new to me. It might be in inherent FALKEN thing, or the load ratings where too low, and the structure degraded internally within the tyre. A more sedate driver might not work the tyre to the same level and not encounter the problem at all.
Afaik 93 is the lowest permissible load for omega. ..? Maybe Falkens 93 load isn't the same as the load designated to oem tyres for omega....?
FALKEN are an aftermarket manufacturer, I believe? Not aware of them supplying factory fit?
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To add, it looks like, on average, a 97 load tyre is less likely to tram line, than a tyre of 95 or lower.
So far anyway.
Hopefully I've understood your post correctly Doz?
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Aye it was me who got it the wrong way round :y
Just for info.
452's are 94 rated
453's are 97
912's are 94
914's are 94
All the above are for 235/45/17.
Not had any dealings with the 453's but maybe they would work ok however at 93 quid a corner it is and expensive experiment. I use 452's on the rear of the LC and don't suffer to bad (bearing in mind they are 265 wide) however they only have a 40 profile so not that much to give I guess.
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and just to muddle things up further. Load rating may not stay the same if you change the tyre size. ie 265/40/17 453's are 100 rated. What a mess
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Ok I'm a bit fuddled now.
Just for info.
452's are + 94 *
453's are + 97 *
912's are +. 94 *
914's are +. 94 *
Ok for clarity could you add the exact size and speed after the + sign. And what they are like for tram lining after the * sign. If you get a minute. :) Ta.
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and just to muddle things up further. Load rating may not stay the same if you change the tyre size. ie 265/40/17 453's are 100 rated. What a mess
So the 100 rated tyre tram lines less? On the LC ? Do I have that right? :)
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??? Hmm...
Just got back from an hour long drive on various types of roads, drove into ruts etc and trying to induce tramlining but nada.
There is one road in particular that is nasty for tramlining, car felt a bit unsteady but didn't tramline much. Although this could be because I got caught behind slower moving traffic both times so wasnt going as fast as I normally would.
Pressures 32psi all round.
Might drop it to 28psi all round tomorrow as TB suggested and see how it behaves
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Thank god for that. Glad your sorted. :y
So top of the scale could be 97xl at 34psi in oe 17 size. Enough to
Put the that Eagle f1 out of the sweet spot for the omega.
Or so SMD's ecperience might imply...?
Just purely as sn an Example. The other end of the scale might be An Eagle f1 with a 94 or 93 rating that needs to be above 34psi. Eg if the load rating is between those extremes the car should behave itself, on the eagle f1.
Wonder if Opti fancys playing with his pressures...? Do I recall he has 94 load..?
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Although, wouldn't want the tyre to over heat Opti. :-\
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The only changes between now and before are:
1. I went to WIM and although Tony couldn't find anything that would cause tramlining, small adjustments were made. I dont know what exactly because I was distracted by the leaking oil sump.
2. I bought a dedicated tyre pressure gauge and set all tyres to 32psi to within an accuracy of 0.5psi. Previously I used a footpump with a built in gauge
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The only changes between now and before are:
1. I went to WIM and although Tony couldn't find anything that would cause tramlining, small adjustments were made. I dont know what exactly because I was distracted by the leaking oil sump.
2. I bought a dedicated tyre pressure gauge and set all tyres to 32psi to within an accuracy of 0.5psi. Previously I used a footpump with a built in gauge
And that could well be the required change ;) ;)
Although garage air lines aren't accurate either they tend to be consistent which foot pump gauges generally aren't
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While the digital pressure gauges may or may not need calibrating, as dbug so eloquently suggests, a neighbour here had one calibrated at fair expense, and the two digital gauges we had to hand including mine, where perfectly accurate when compared.
More so than some of the cheap air tool pressure gauges and garage forecourt gauges .
Ime on the tyres I've had, 28 - 34psi range is enough to discover if pressure affects the way the tire tracks. You can go higher or lower, but any more and it gets dodgy on ride and concerns over dinged rims come into play.
I've just dropped my front ao1 to 28 to see of it makes any odds. It doesn't. I'll try 34 tomorrow.
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Should add, opposite to yours SMD. I felt the rear of mine have a little wander yesterday. Checked the pressures, down to 28.5 from 32psi on one side.
Hope its not a slow puncture or sumat stuck in the tyre. :-\ 265/35/19 ain't cheap.
Might have been the low psi, but they are also half worn now, so it might be that.
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This worries me too now that I spent £500+ on tyres. When I bought this car it had Eagle F1s on the rear axle. Every week it lost a bar pressure due to slash on the inside sidewall on one tyre.
Tyres for my humble 17" rims cost £130 a pop for decent ones. Still there's part worns if you can't afford another sport conti Chris. I paid £30 for my sportconti2 last year ;D
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This worries me too now that I spent £500+ on tyres. When I bought this car it had Eagle F1s on the rear axle. Every week it lost a bar pressure due to slash on the inside sidewall on one tyre.
Tyres for my humble 17" rims cost £130 a pop for decent ones. Still there's part worns if you can't afford another sport conti Chris. I paid £30 for my sportconti2 last year ;D
I don't want to start you know who off, but part worns, IMO, have a place for experimentation or for getting out of a tight spot... ...or for destroying on an airfield ;) ...although I have a few here that I'll be glad to see the back of.
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my experience with load ratings is that they have little to do with the construction of a tyre.
in many conversations with many tyre manufacturers it appears that they design the tyre with a target weight of vehicle in mind and post the load rating to suit, rather than design the tyre around an absolute load/speed index rating. Every time I've contacted them for a chat about running a vehicle above the load ratings, they've come back and said yes its fine, here's a letter allowing manufacturer "x" to run this vehicle at that weight on our tyres, "Y" kg above the load/speed index.
I've had permissions to run vehicles maybe 500kg above the labelled ratings before now, which leads me to believe the rating has little to do with the construction.
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my experience with load ratings is that they have little to do with the construction of a tyre.
in many conversations with many tyre manufacturers it appears that they design the tyre with a target weight of vehicle in mind and post the load rating to suit, rather than design the tyre around an absolute load/speed index rating. Every time I've contacted them for a chat about running a vehicle above the load ratings, they've come back and said yes its fine, here's a letter allowing manufacturer "x" to run this vehicle at that weight on our tyres, "Y" kg above the load/speed index.
I've had permissions to run vehicles maybe 500kg above the labelled ratings before now, which leads me to believe the rating has little to do with the construction.
Have a read of this mate - its the British Tyre Manufacturers’ Association Tyre Technical Advisory Committees report on Replacing Car Tyres, together with legal implications re "service description", which includes speed rating and load rating or index. http://www.btmauk.com/data/files/Replacing_Car_Tyres_1_June_2011.pdf (http://www.btmauk.com/data/files/Replacing_Car_Tyres_1_June_2011.pdf) ;)
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Early days and might be wishful thinking, but there appears to be some relevance to higher load ratings being more suitable. Well, in my mind anyway. :-\ ;D
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Have a read of this mate - its the British Tyre Manufacturers’ Association Tyre Technical Advisory Committees report on Replacing Car Tyres, together with legal implications re "service description", which includes speed rating and load rating or index. http://www.btmauk.com/data/files/Replacing_Car_Tyres_1_June_2011.pdf (http://www.btmauk.com/data/files/Replacing_Car_Tyres_1_June_2011.pdf) ;)
will do ! thanks.
I've only ever done this as a motor manufacturer getting specific permission from the tyre manufacturer to run outside the load/speed index on new vehicles.
all read now - and good stuff as an "aide-memoir" for tyre fitters, etc.
full of "may be illegal", too ::)
its because of this sort of stuff that I've approached the manufacturers for specific permission. It would all be easier if I could tell you the circumstances, etc.
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Lifted from another thread. Thanks to D. :y
Standard 17 Elite alloys on 3.2 Elite with LPG. GY F1 assym 2 XL
Cannot really complain except for the fact that they are quite noisy, esp over poorer surfaces. About 6k on them so far. No experience in the size you ask for though, so may be useless to you.
Could you post the size, speed and load ratings D, if you get a mo. :)
17" std elite alloys, so 235/45/17, XL 97 Y.
Edit: To confuse things, there is a F1 assym and a F1 assym 2 (i.e. 2 being the newer version).
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Due to the magnitude of these tyre tests I looked at my tyres today to post up. They are 99 load rated. Do you still want me to post up?
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Due to the magnitude of these tyre tests I looked at my tyres today to post up. They are 99 load rated. Do you still want me to post up?
Go for it Webby. :)
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Due to the magnitude of these tyre tests I looked at my tyres today to post up. They are 99 load rated. Do you still want me to post up?
Go for it Webby. :)
:y :y :y
225/55/16R 99XL - Suntek (lol, I know I've never heard of them either)
They are budget tyres from Scotts Tyres Northampton.
My driving style is the exact opposite from TB in the bends. However I do like to maintain fast straight line speed (average 85mph on my friends private track, going up to 100mph if clear)
However, one plus from a comparison point of view is that my car has been WIM'd. Actually Chris, you kindly replaced my springs prior to my alignment being done there! :)
Absolutely no tram lining (following the camber and having to driver adjust), drives straight and true, brakes hard and true if necessary, no tyre noise.
Had a vibrating at 80. this was fixed via a wheel balance being done... happened immediately so thinking a weight fell off.
Anything else you want mate just let me know ;)
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Ps, no idea if this helps but I thought it may be handy...
http://www.onlinetyres.net/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_copy_of_Firestone_Multihawk.html
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....scroll down a bit :y