Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: SR-71Blackbird on 13 March 2013, 14:01:00
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Hi all,
I changed a bulb on the passenger side area and removed the battery because it was in the way.
Now the cars starting ability is not as good after I have put the battery back. It has less power then a few days ago and the weather has been cold for all of it so thats not a factor.
I'm thinking I didn't clamp it to the cables properly or well enough and maybe the connection to the battery is not as strong, perhaps it is not charging fully or when the starter motor needs all the power it is not flowing properly anymore.
Here are the specs of the battery, it is 1 1/2 years old and was excellent until I removed it :(
12V 950 CCA, 100 Ah,
Does anyone have any pictures or tips to fitting them properly.
I thought I put the terminals back on far down enough and then tightened up the clamps as much as I could but maybe not.
Thanks guys
Alex
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Also, just thinking in general, do trickle chargers work on Omegas, the ones that plug into the 12v socket?
Thanks
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Also, just thinking in general, do trickle chargers work on Omegas, the ones that plug into the 12v socket?
Thanks
No... The socket is only live with the ignition on ;)
Check the readings with a multimeter as per the guide :y
I'd be suspicious of the crimps personally
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OK understood about the charger.
Yes my thinking too.
What is the best procedure for doing this?
Should I remove the battery again and then install it again but with some helpful hints ... ( that I am hoping you can provide now if possible :) )
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You can't really go far wrong... If the terminals are all the way down on the battery posts and tight (not stupidly tight) then that part's OK. Check to see if they get very hot when the engine is running then it points at bad crimp where the wires go into the clamps ;)
Don't forget though, in the cold weather the battery takes a beating and if it's not had a decent run (at least 20-30 mins) then it will be less than fully charged anyway
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Hiya,
OK thanks very much for that.
Next question,
How do I know if my battery cables are good, I suspect they are originals and may not be the best.
I can see that places offer replacement cables but I don't know where the cable would attach to at the other end?
Thanks
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Hiya,
OK thanks very much for that.
Next question,
How do I know if my battery cables are good, I suspect they are originals and may not be the best.
I can see that places offer replacement cables but I don't know where the cable would attach to at the other end?
Thanks
Rare to need to replace the whole cable... Worst case is just needing to sort the crimp at the clamp :y
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OK, I shall take a close look and report back.
Thanks
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Hi all,
I have just ordered a multi meter so when it arrives I will test out the voltage and report back with my findings.
Just out of interest.
Is there a how to guide for replacing the cables that go from the battery to the alternator? Mine look kinked and not in the best condition and they will be originals so 14-15 years old now.
I'm not going to replace anything before testing and checking on here but I just wanted to know how to do it if need be.
Thanks
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Hi all,
I have just ordered a multi meter so when it arrives I will test out the voltage and report back with my findings.
Just out of interest.
Is there a how to guide for replacing the cables that go from the battery to the alternator? Mine look kinked and not in the best condition and they will be originals so 14-15 years old now.
I'm not going to replace anything before testing and checking on here but I just wanted to know how to do it if need be.
Thanks
Hi,
The multi-meter will be good for a static test and a dynamic test (when car off and with it running) but from what I've learned at school (and guys here will correct me if I'm wrong :)) but the battery can still be bad.
Your problem though started straight after you did something... so i'd guess the battery's good.
You did remove neg. first, then positive... and on replacement positive first, then neg.? I've heard (although not seen it personally) that bad things can happen to the batt. if this isn't done.
if all done correct i'd try cleaning the posts and the terminals with a wire brush..... good connection is essential :)
hth
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This kind of thing.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Battery-Terminals-1-Pos-1-Neg-Brand-New-/310323217045?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item4840b48295
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Hi all,
I have just ordered a multi meter so when it arrives I will test out the voltage and report back with my findings.
Just out of interest.
Is there a how to guide for replacing the cables that go from the battery to the alternator? Mine look kinked and not in the best condition and they will be originals so 14-15 years old now.
I'm not going to replace anything before testing and checking on here but I just wanted to know how to do it if need be.
Thanks
Hi,
The multi-meter will be good for a static test and a dynamic test (when car off and with it running) but from what I've learned at school (and guys here will correct me if I'm wrong :)) but the battery can still be bad.
Your problem though started straight after you did something... so i'd guess the battery's good.
You did remove neg. first, then positive... and on replacement positive first, then neg.? I've heard (although not seen it personally) that bad things can happen to the batt. if this isn't done.
if all done correct i'd try cleaning the posts and the terminals with a wire brush..... good connection is essential :)
hth
Safety first, thats all. with the negative still attached, removing the positive first could result in a spanner short to the bodywork situation.
Remove the negative first, you have risk assessed your way out of trouble.
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Ok thanks for the tips all. I hope to be able to look at it soon and report back. I agree that it is very likely me not doing something right as is generally the case, very annoying as it had great power before seeing as the CCA is so large and now it is kinda rubbish. Hopefully an easy fix somewhere.