Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: BobCoombs on 26 March 2013, 09:38:06
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Hi fellas, new to the site but with a common problem I think. Changed the fuel filter in my 2.2dti & it won't start, have cranked it for hours with no joy to the point where I may have damaged the starter motor. Many of you seem to have fitted the squeezy bulb type primer to the 'out' line on the filter but can I ask what size pump you used as the seem to come in 6,8,10 & 12mm sizes? Did you just cut the plastic fuel line & secure with jubilee clips?
Many thanks for your help. Bob
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Hi Bob and welcome to the forum.
I didn't know the pumps came in different sizes, I just bought one, cut the plastic pipes and fitted it with jubilee clips but I put mine on the feed to the pump.
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Hi, many thanks, this is my first 2.2, I had the 2.5s before this. So you put yours in the pipe that runs from the filter to the pump? My filter is full of diesel but I'm getting almost nothing at the injectors so I've been reading up on here & it seems to be a VERY common problem which most cure with one of the squeezy bulb type primers. I was looking on eBay & they're only a fiver so thought it would be worth a go before I destroy ( if I haven't already) my starter motor
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The only thing I look for is to make sure the bulb has metal ends and not plastic. I've never had a problem starting my 2.2DTi after a filter change once the bulb is installed ;)
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I have long suspected that fitting a priming bulb with a non-return valve would save quite a few VP44's!
I think I would have one fitted to the feed side to the filter though....
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So just to clarify, fit the primer pump between the tank & the inlet to the diesel filter or to the outlet of the diesel filter?
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Your choice buy I connect to the filter inlet so I can bleed the system from feed through to injector pump easily.
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Right, just bought one off fleabay, I'll connect to the inlet side of the filter so it draws from the tank & pumps through the filter to the injector pump & let's see if she goes :)
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When i changed mine the other week, i simply took a leakback pipe off and applied vacuum to it until diesel flowed out and put it back on the injector sharpish...
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... I got this idea when I realised the injector pipework wont bleed when slackened off without the leak back pipes connected...
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would towing the car down the road solve the problem or easy start just to get it running ??
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I was thinking tow start as long as its manual
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Be warned easistart is the tool of the lowest form of bodger.
Bottom line is there is air in the fuel system which needs to be removed, until this is done it won't run.
The method is to use a priming bulb to pump fuel through. Crack the feed pipe to the fuel pump and pump fuel until air stops coming out.
Then if possible, crack the injector pipes and crank until fuel appears, retightenand then go for a start.
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surley if the car needed a primer bulb vx would have fit them at the factory or is it a retro fit to over come worn parts somewhere ?
i agree with the easistart comment its not the best stuff to put in your engine
cant see why towing the car in 3rd or 4th gear would be a problem
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The vp44 pump is supposed to be able to self prime due to the integration of a priming pump. Reality is that doing this puts a lot of stress on the internals.
Tow starting just means you run the pump for a period of time with no lubrication, not good.
Easistart is an engine destroyer, I have seen to many goosed rings and even bent rods from it
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MarkDTMcalib is absolutely right.
The diesel fuel also acts as a lubricant for the fuel pump and for the injectors (hence the need for leak back...). Running the pump with no fuel in it can be disastrous, therefore tow starting to overcome an airlock shouldn't be attempted.
All I did when I changed my filter was disconnect the push fit pipes and lift the complete filter body out from its cradle, change the (sludge coated!!!) filter and cleaned the filter bowl out, fitted the filter, and filled the filter casing with clean diesel, and put back together (not forgetting the two O rings!!) and installed it back into the car and reconnected the pipes.
Removed one of the leak back pipes and used a vacuum pump (use your mouth and spit out the fuel as a one off...) to suck the pipe leading down to the pump, air came out and then fuel... I quickly reconnected the leakback pipe and the car started straight back up. Ran ok for 5 seconds or so, hunted for a few seconds while the small amount of remaining air purged, and then ran perfectly.
If you need to slacken the injector unions to purge air out, make sure you reconnect the leak back pipes, even though it makes access to the 17mm injector nuts awkward. It won't purge with the leak back circuit open...
Good luck