Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: PAULCDX on 08 April 2013, 19:58:02
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Hi All,
Mrs has got a Vectra C 1.8 Z18XE 2003 with a few issues, is there anybody on here that can help me out or put me in touch with a man that can lol ;)
Cheers
Paul :y
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You've done well to break it ;D
What seems to be the problem?
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I miss my Omega TBH but seems we have turned a corner now and have gone onto the Veccy ::)
Few probs are :
Heaters don't work at all on any speed, all fuses checked and replaced anyway but no joy?
Engine light on and rough, erratic idle sometimes stalling?
Think that's all I've found so far ;)
Paul
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Have you tried the heater resistor :-\ worth double checking the scuttle drain beneath the pollen filter just to be safe.
What service history? Might be as simple as plugs/coilpack :-\ have you tried the pedal trick?
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I just got rid of my Vectra c :-X
Heater controls is a really common fault, didn't even bother to replace it as its that common almost like an optional extra ;D
It's ordinarily the resistor pack :y
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There is paperwork from the last owner for a coil pack last year but fault is still there :o
I'm thinking idle control valve or MAF maybe but until I find somebody to read the codes then I'ts all guess work ;D
I will attempt the pedal trick tomw if I'm confident enough ::)
Re the heaters, the motor / resistor is looking the likely culprit I think, hope they aren't expensive fixes :(
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Sorry missed the part about the idle
If you don't let all the dash lights go out and try to turn it over, does it struggle to start. Or does it appear worse when it's warm ?
I had the same issue with mine, it was the throttle positioning sensor but I had the throttle body replaced with a refurb item
Again common issue, mine started as erratic idle but got worse started to miss high rpm
I though coil pack, plugs but was proved wrong :)
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Hi Dazzer,
The idle problem seems to get worse once warm, when sitting static the needle fluctuates, revs drop to the point where it cuts out completely it then throws up the orange engine light >:(
I need to get both issues looked at asap I think, no air con / heaters and idle problem......... Finding somebody to help me out will be great ;) :y
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Open glovebox, 5 torx screws out and pull the glove box into the car, heater motor and resistor just there :y
Run 3 1.8s, done well over 380k, only newer one has been slightly troublesome. Key is sensible servicing. Ignore Vx schedules...
Oil and filter every 10k not 20k,
Plugs, air, pollen and fuel filter every 20k, should never miss a beat. Expect rad to fail at 100k ish. :y
Haynes book of blocks, whilst not quite as detailed as the Omega one, still useful...
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What is alarming is the car has full VX history but no mention of a cambelt change :o
Car is now on 140k so I'm hoping to god it's at least had one done in it's life.
Thanks for the advice everyone ;) :y
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Aircon not working, most likely a rotten condensor. Check when/if rad changed, easier to do both together, £110 for parts plus aircon regas :y
Fan not working, most likely resistor. Of the three cars, only one failed resistor, coincidentally scuttle drain blocked, flooding passenger footwell :-\
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Hi Dazzer,
The idle problem seems to get worse once warm, when sitting static the needle fluctuates, revs drop to the point where it cuts out completely it then throws up the orange engine light >:(
I need to get both issues looked at asap I think, no air con / heaters and idle problem......... Finding somebody to help me out will be great ;) :y
Hi Paul
Sounds identical to the issue I had.
If you have 5 minutes, remove the throttle body and give it a thorough clean with some carb cleaner or similar and a brush.
Replace, and it if it is defiantly that all being well should be fixed ?
I spoke to my local VX at length regarding mine and they advised that's all they would have done, for 48 quid.. Like I say mate 5 min job. The issue with the vec c the cambus system is a little to complex for its own good if you haven't got a "My Naff Code Reader" lying around disconnect the battery for a few moments prior to replacing the clean throttle body :y
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Cheers Al,
I can live without the air con / fans for now but it's the idle issue which causes me most worry, I will attempt the pedal trick but I think a trip to a garage for a diag check may help to pin point problem.
If anybody local to me has the software / computer then PM me please ;) :y
Cheers,
Paul :y
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Cheers for the advice Dazzer ;) :y
I will make a plan and get these issues sorted asap. :y
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What is alarming is the car has full VX history but no mention of a cambelt change :o
Car is now on 140k so I'm hoping to god it's at least had one done in it's life.
Thanks for the advice everyone ;) :y
Interval is 60k, had one run to 100k but luck rather than judgement, (someone else misread the service book).
Change water pump and thermostat at the same time, 2-3 hours labour plus parts :y
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I'm hoping at 140k It's at least had one done :-\
Looks like the Mrs has got to open her purse a bit more ;D :-X
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Update,
Re the heaters not working, have replaced Pollen Filter and cleared the scuttle drain although this was quite dry and unblocked TBH.
I'm guessing all is pointing towards a new heater motor / resistor replacement?
Any Vectra C specialists near me can take a look? Happy to come to you if nearby
Thanks
Paul :y
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If you're spanner friendly, I would suggest aquiring a new resistor and fitting it yourself :y
As said before, open glovebox, three screws along the top, one in each lower corner, then pull straight out.
Resistor should be obvious, especially with new one in the other hand ::)
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I'm not that confident and I wouldn't even attempt it mate but thanks for your help. Somebody near me may be able to help out?
Just realised I'm posting veccy probs on the OOF sorry :-[ ::)
Gosh I miss my Miggy
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;D I know what you mean :y
If you we're closer I'd gladly deal with it, but for the fuel cost you might as well get a local garage to do it.
Might be worth sending Dazzle a pm, get the cambelt etc done at the same time :-\
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Dazzle as in DLK? :D
Thanks for your help tho Al, just looking at prices for the heater motor including the resistor, unless it's just the resistor I should change first?
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Aye, the Pink Crusader himself :y
Motor won't run if the resistor is shot :y
If the pollen filter was dry, then chances are motor will be fine. Guessing resistor is significantly cheaper by itself :-\
Not sure how hard the blower unit is to change either...
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I've Pm'd him mate in the hope he can help me out
Thanks Al :y
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I would expect the motor to run at full speed if its the resistor but not at any lower speeds
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Just had one replaced on the '55 saloon. Motor wouldn't run at all, pattern resistor lasted two days, but it was then discovered that the scuttle was full of water ::)
Drained and dried, new resistor fitted and all well. I wasn't available to look at it, so only found out when it went in for it. Garage swallowed the cost of the second resistor because they had neither noticed the passenger footwell being wet, nor checked the scuttle ::)
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i was thinking a vectra c 1.8 would be a good replacement for my omega when the time comes. they arnt bad cars are they?
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i was thinking a vectra c 1.8 would be a good replacement for my omega when the time comes. they arnt bad cars are they?
I often wonder why they are so cheap , problematic maybe :-\
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Bit juicy perhaps, as the gearing isn't brilliant :-\ but we're talking 30+ mpg rather than 20 something :y
Alot more reliable than either the 2.2 petrol and the 1.9 diseasals :y
1.8 percieved to be the runt, so prices are always much more favourable :y
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i was thinking a vectra c 1.8 would be a good replacement for my omega when the time comes. they arnt bad cars are they?
I often wonder why they are so cheap , problematic maybe :-\
1.8 probably the pick of the bunch :y
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Is the 3.2 the same engine as the omega ?
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Yup, minus multirams iirc :y
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Yup, minus multirams iirc :y
Cheers for that , gives something different to look at ;)
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Yup, minus multirams iirc :y
Cheers for that , gives something different to look at ;)
Or of course the 3.0 v6 diesel 8)
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I would expect the motor to run at full speed if its the resistor but not at any lower speeds
That's how mine went only worked on number 4, diagnosed by VX themselves as resistor :y
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Seen as my heaters aren't working at all on any speed, scuttle is clear and dry am I still assuming it's the motor that has gone or just the resistor or both? ;)
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Just a thought, the previous owner last year had a new exhaust from Cat all the way back, could this be throwing up any faults are causing my EML light to come on and poor stuttering idle?
Just wondering whether to take it back to Kwik Fit and get them to check exhaust system as it's still under guarantee?
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Update, heres the codes that have come up which may explain the poor idling and Exhaust emissions light on.
p0170 - fuel trim system rich (11) - present
p0100 - mass or volume air flow circuit low input (06) - not present
p1525 - throttle control malfunction (65) - not present
p1550 - electronic throttle control engine stop (3a) - not prensent
Anybody know of these codes or where to start first?
Thanks as always,
Paul :y
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Update, heres the codes that have come up which may explain the poor idling and Exhaust emissions light on.
p0170 - fuel trim system rich (11) - present
p0100 - mass or volume air flow circuit low input (06) - not present
p1525 - throttle control malfunction (65) - not present
p1550 - electronic throttle control engine stop (3a) - not prensent
Anybody know of these codes or where to start first?
Thanks as always,
Paul :y
Hi mate, right bar the exhaust emissions light on I can relate to all bar po1000
I would strongly suggest this is the throttle body at fault as your symptoms are identical to what I had
It's to do withy the electronically controlled throttle control within body, you can hear it click when you turn the ignition on (that's the inlet opening)
I would recommend in the first instance removing the throttle body and giving it a good clean with a brush or similar and some carb cleaner as they can get coked up, whilst off check the function of the body by making sure when you push the plate inside it springs back as it should without hesitation
I am not exaggerating, to this it is a five min job only 2 bolts if I remember rightly,
The other option, diconnect the airflow meter while running And see if it runs differently for code 0100 this may be your afm at fault
It's a shame your not closer :y
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To right Daz I wish I was nearer mate, did you cure your Vectra doing what you did mate?
I've been out today and bought another MAF and a throttle body but need to fit to see if any changes ::)
Cheers mate, :y
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Most of those codes are showing not present, clear the codes then see what comes back.
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To right Daz I wish I was nearer mate, did you cure your Vectra doing what you did mate?
I've been out today and bought another MAF and a throttle body but need to fit to see if any changes ::)
Cheers mate, :y
Your welcome... I would put money on it running perfect with the new throttle body
Good luck :y
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To right Daz I wish I was nearer mate, did you cure your Vectra doing what you did mate?
I've been out today and bought another MAF and a throttle body but need to fit to see if any changes ::)
Cheers mate, :y
Your welcome... I would put money on it running perfect with the new throttle body
Good luck :y
If it has been running for some time with duff readings from the MAF and seeing as there is a code for mixture it is extremely likely that the long term trim is miles out.
If you can reset the long term trim you should see an immediate improvement otherwise it may take a while to return to normal (assuming that it ever does - I think the self learning is inhibited if there is an emissions code :-\)
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What is alarming is the car has full VX history but no mention of a cambelt change :o
Car is now on 140k so I'm hoping to god it's at least had one done in it's life.
Thanks for the advice everyone ;) :y
My Mig has full Vx service history too. No mentions of cam belt change in the service book either but the print out job receipts go in to more details inc cam belt.
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Those codes were read off OP COM device yesterday so I assume they are still present and my EML is still showing.
If I can get the parts changed I will then get someone to check the codes to see if they have cleared etc.
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Hi Andy, thanks for your input,
So if the parts clear the problem, would I still need someone to adjust the settings on the OP COM etc?
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The ones marked not present are old codes, there's only the 0170 that's still there.
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Oh I see,
What could be causing the 0170 code? something to do with the MAF, throttle body or is it pointing to exhaust or CAT problems?
Thanks for your help
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sound like ECU will need repair
we had few vectra B or C and astra 1.8 16v with similar problems
you reset codes and they come back soon but they not present at time when read codes
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Great that's just what I wanted to hear >:( ::)
Anybody know any ECU repair people that could help me if it turns out to be that? Not sure how I will know though
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Oh I see,
What could be causing the 0170 code? something to do with the MAF, throttle body or is it pointing to exhaust or CAT problems?
Thanks for your help
The 0170 code is a symptom rather than a cause.
Without any current codes to help you identify the problem you need to start looking at the live readings to work out what is going wrong.
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Thanks Andy,
Anybody local to me can help me with some readings? I'm not gonna spend a fortune going to garages if I can help it.
I will look after anybody that can help me? ;) :y
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Can anybody help a clueless member? :-[ ;)
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not local but can help if you come round mine I will read codes and see what in live data maybe will find where is problem, FOC but need to be weekend or evenings as we are very busy in workshop
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Thanks Serek, I will keep you in mind. It would be great to get some help and advice. ;) :y