Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: elitedave on 29 April 2013, 16:07:35
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re my arches there going but aint reall bad yet
what your guy opinions on grinding off and much rust off as possible treating with best rust stopper you can get ie stuff restorers use
filling then priming with a zink etch primer , a filer primer smoothhing out a bit and paint or spray a good underseal
then fitting some chrome/stainless arches over the top because it aint past line they would cover yet
and there a polish place on ebay that ones for omegas and seal em on with that body kit glue and caulke gun
rather fully cut em out and welding i repair paneli have and spraying wings
does sound like a sensible plan
i have got a compressor and can get buy doing not too bad a job all be im no expert sprayer
ill spray primer and acrillic base and 1k clear but wont lay 2k and i spray with charchole mask ad aint got anywhere to do it safe or a air feed mask
so it has to be 1k or get body shop to spray 2k clear but easy to mist the clear coat window doing that
im getting too old to try the old cross your fingers hold you breath , drink lots of milk and spray and pray way of spraying 2k now lol
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no need to be an expert sprayer to spray (of course prof job results will be better) , just practice on some test metal surfaces several times before you actually apply on car..
check the mix ratios of thinner-hardener and other substances.. try to match the exact color with a shop.. and another problem is when you spray outside, too much dust and insects stick onto paint.. so you have to apply every layer seperately , a bit thicker than usual and wet sand each after dry-up including laquer.. also you can use cheaper home type epoxy but its poisionous so at least use a cheapo mask.. (but you wont die for one time painting, I didnt ;D )
ps: take the water from the compressor by draining it (frequently after every use and dont let air inside) and while spraying wait between layers and dont use full pressure , decrease a bit so you can control the amount of paint thrown
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and sanding numbers for surfaces:
metal : no less than 150 (you need to apply thick primer otherwise sanding scratches will be visible) but 360 better for a beginner
primer : 800 old/used
paint : 1200 old/used
laquer : 1200 old or 1500
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and sanding numbers for surfaces:
metal : no less than 150 (you need to apply thick primer otherwise sanding scratches will be visible) but 360 better for a beginner
primer : 800 old/used
paint : 1200 old/used
laquer : 1200 old or 1500
I would use a scouring pad(wet) on paint to flat it and then 2000 grade(wet) on top coats(laquer) ;)
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in my personal opinion if you do it yourself youll notice the bits you mess up where as if you saved up and took it to the shop they'll do it properly and bang its done :y
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in my personal opinion if you do it yourself youll notice the bits you mess up where as if you saved up and took it to the shop they'll do it properly and bang its done :y
bodyshop not cheap around here mate TBH
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and sanding numbers for surfaces:
metal : no less than 150 (you need to apply thick primer otherwise sanding scratches will be visible) but 360 better for a beginner
primer : 800 old/used
paint : 1200 old/used
laquer : 1200 old or 1500
I would use a scouring pad(wet) on paint to flat it and then 2000 grade(wet) on top coats(laquer) ;)
I would happily use 2000 on laquer but it depends on the hardness.. a very hard good quality laquer wont be effected by 2000 :-\
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im just out of pratice iv sprayed whole cars before out doors
iv got awarter trap on compressor and in line
yea 2k clear i would use 1500grit
when blendint and doing spot repiares i normaly just clean good clear and scuff pannel with a scotch pad
normally ill do a light coat of base two normal coats at 50/50 and do the final coat at 70 thinner and 30 paint
with clear ill do a tack coat two full coats and wet sand cut and pollish it
or if i want real nice ill do a wet sand and another slightly thinned coat of clear or two then buff
wit arches i want planing to spray wing as rust aint far just fit chrome arches over repair
ill need to spray bumper spliter and bottom of back passenger door may as well do driver side sill as theirs a few scratches on it
and ill have to blend to bottom of drivers door as its a silver car for a good blend
ill usually use a filler primmer and use a gide coat and 600 grit for taking off guide coat
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im just out of pratice iv sprayed whole cars before out doors
iv got awarter trap on compressor and in line
yea 2k clear i would use 1500grit
when blendint and doing spot repiares i normaly just clean good clear and scuff pannel with a scotch pad
normally ill do a light coat of base two normal coats at 50/50 and do the final coat at 70 thinner and 30 paint
with clear ill do a tack coat two full coats and wet sand cut and pollish it
or if i want real nice ill do a wet sand and another slightly thinned coat of clear or two then buff
wit arches i want planing to spray wing as rust aint far just fit chrome arches over repair
ill need to spray bumper spliter and bottom of back passenger door may as well do driver side sill as theirs a few scratches on it
and ill have to blend to bottom of drivers door as its a silver car for a good blend
ill usually use a filler primmer and use a gide coat and 600 grit for taking off guide coat
::) no need for lessons then ;D :y
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yea i was more asking for opinions on how long the bog and arch cover would last to save with cutting out welding in a arch repair panel and spraying arches and clearing the whole of wings would last
as as others have said got to do it out side and it a pain sanding and buffing out dust a fly legs
and picking the right day when it aint to humid for clear if a bit to cold i can warm up panel a bit with a heat gun
bumper if got to do i can get buy spraying but cant say i enjoy it lol
when i do bumpper i get the frount in mates garaged and soak the floor to keep dust down