Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: megaomega123 on 01 May 2013, 18:11:12
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Hi all.
Car was in today for ABS ECU change. I have a 2.5v6 manual and purchased a 2.6 abs unit, knowing that it may need to go on tech2. The mechanic decided that it would be better just to change the whole unit as opposed to just the ecu. He phoned me to say there was a problem, so I went to see.
The symptoms now are:
TC light remains on. ABS light goes out.
Engine Management light on.
Rev counter flicks between 5-7000rpm
Code says no rpm signal
Car does not start.
A lot more and different symptoms to standard ABS ECU failure.
Has something been unplugged somewhere? He did stretch the main ECU out of the way.
Does the ABS unit have differing setup if manual or auto. Extra rpm signal maybe?
Hope this is enough info for someone to diagnose. If anymore info needed just ask.
:'( :'(
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Hi all.
Car was in today for ABS ECU change. I have a 2.5v6 manual and purchased a 2.6 abs unit, knowing that it may need to go on tech2. The mechanic decided that it would be better just to change the whole unit as opposed to just the ecu. He phoned me to say there was a problem, so I went to see.
The symptoms now are:
TC light remains on. ABS light goes out.
Engine Management light on.
Rev counter flicks between 5-7000rpm
Code says no rpm signal
Car does not start.
A lot more and different symptoms to standard ABS ECU failure.
Has something been unplugged somewhere? He did stretch the main ECU out of the way.
Does the ABS unit have differing setup if manual or auto. Extra rpm signal maybe?
Hope this is enough info for someone to diagnose. If anymore info needed just ask.
:'( :'(
If code is 0335 then it won`t start (crank sensor). Has your mechanic dislodged the CS connector.
Different config on manual & auto
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[/quote]
If code is 0335 then it won`t start (crank sensor). Has your mechanic dislodged the CS connector.
Different config on manual & auto
[/quote]
Not sure of exact code as he just plugged in cheap reader which said no rpm signal.
I know the replacement abs unit came from a facelift 2.6 y26se. Not sure if it was manual or auto. Would this produce these symptoms if it came from an auto?
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A 31 no rpm signal is normal when the engine isn't running.
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A 31 no rpm signal is normal when the engine isn't running.
True. I should have paper clipped it.
The rev counter only jumped around when he had the battery booster attached, as he flattened the battery trying to start it.
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Replaced my abs unit last month. Part no of the replacement unit was the same but described as a unit taken from a 2.5.
Only replaced the electronic bit, a bit pointless to change the valve block.
I did expect issues, have found non.
Non start sounds more like crusty crank sensor wiring has given up after a nudge.
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I had a slightly similar issue after changing my ABS/TC ECU last year - TC light on, multiple codes, rev counter all over the shop - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quz54rqVmvg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quz54rqVmvg)
Turned out to be one or more poor connections in the big round connectors (X5 from memory....) next to the battery. I'd undone these to get access to the ECU. So I cleaned up the connectors with a fine needle file, made sure all the pins were seated and the problem went away.
I assume the new unit is a know good item?
/m.
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The old unit has been put back in and back to normal. Intermittent failure. Cost me £301 for the privilege of not getting it fixed :'( :'( :'(
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I had a slightly similar issue after changing my ABS/TC ECU last year - TC light on, multiple codes, rev counter all over the shop - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quz54rqVmvg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=quz54rqVmvg)
Turned out to be one or more poor connections in the big round connectors (X5 from memory....) next to the battery. I'd undone these to get access to the ECU. So I cleaned up the connectors with a fine needle file, made sure all the pins were seated and the problem went away.
I assume the new unit is a know good item?
/m.
those plugs can throw gearbox/abs/ecu faults-I reckon heat opens the spade part-losing contact IMHO :y
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The old unit has been put back in and back to normal. Intermittent failure. Cost me £301 for the privilege of not getting it fixed :'( :'( :'(
omg £301 to put back your old part!!! was this a vx dealer?
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The old unit has been put back in and back to normal. Intermittent failure. Cost me £301 for the privilege of not getting it fixed :'( :'( :'(
omg £301 to put back your old part!!! was this a vx dealer?
Surprisingly not. Just a single premises, local place. 8 hours labour
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I appreciate they've spent a long time on it but £301???? you expect that cost if they fix it! lol what do others think about this? :-\
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ABS faults are tricky! Not solved mine yet.
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I appreciate they've spent a long time on it but £301???? you expect that cost if they fix it! lol what do others think about this? :-\
Not the mechanics fault - swapped a part supplied by the owner!! However 8 hours is a bit steep for abs ecu swap IME ;)
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i tell him hes a pleb and i want money back hour and a half max to remove and refit ecu if that with many Coffey and fags and gasing
no way id pay for 8hours labour on that while he scratch his ass working what to undo
he dint know what he was doing
remover battery fuse box pass ress un do round connector plugs and any wires in way loosen nuts on abs unit and lift gently get m8 to undo 4 tox bolts/screwed with flexible driver while you hold it up a bit on pipes
sould have done it your self
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Pm incoming
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I agree with Elite Dave, one hour should do the job. However, it is tricky, and the way Haynes recommends, or the OOF guide, are both difficult and time consuming. A small garage doing it from a Haynes manual for the first time, might well take eight hours if he was unlucky.
I took an hour last change, having done one a few days earlier. Piece of cake (on 2 litre).
Battery out, power steering fluid reservoir out, remove exhaust gas recirculation pipe, unclip ABS hydraulic pipes from bulkhead; loosen 2 ABS unit heat shield torx screws, remove engine side ABS mounting nut and pull heat shield off screw, slacken wing side mounting nut. Slide ABS ECU connector violet clamp out towards the wing, remove connector.
Grasp ABS assembly firmly, pick it up and tilt it ECU end upwards until you can see the 6 torx screws that attach the ECU to pump block. Prop it there on the heat shield or block of wood. Unplug cable from ECU, remove 6 torx screws, pull off ECU. Half an hour, without assistance.
Have cup of coffee, chat to wife.
Put on new or repaired ECU, reassemble. Pray fault has gone away.
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Hi Malcy_p of Suffolk. Good to meet you again in cyberspace.
We must have changed a few ABS ECUs over the years. I have changed 6 or more. I thank you for the technique, which you taught me originally, and which I published above without acknowledgement. I hereby attribute it to you, tested and often used by me.
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Hi all.
Car was in today for ABS ECU change. I have a 2.5v6 manual and purchased a 2.6 abs unit, knowing that it may need to go on tech2. The mechanic decided that it would be better just to change the whole unit as opposed to just the ecu. He phoned me to say there was a problem, so I went to see.
The symptoms now are:
TC light remains on. ABS light goes out.
Engine Management light on.
Rev counter flicks between 5-7000rpm
Code says no rpm signal
Car does not start.
A lot more and different symptoms to standard ABS ECU failure.
Has something been unplugged somewhere? He did stretch the main ECU out of the way.
Does the ABS unit have differing setup if manual or auto. Extra rpm signal maybe?
Hope this is enough info for someone to diagnose. If anymore info needed just ask.
:'( :'(
My first thought is that 2.5 implies pre-facelift therefore 3 channel ABS and 2.6 implies facelift therefore 4 channel ABS & incompatible with original ECU and probably incompatible with engine ECU as well. :-\
It isn't that simple of course but I would assume that they were incompatible until part numbers & chassis numbers had been checked
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Hi all.
Car was in today for ABS ECU change. I have a 2.5v6 manual and purchased a 2.6 abs unit, knowing that it may need to go on tech2. The mechanic decided that it would be better just to change the whole unit as opposed to just the ecu. He phoned me to say there was a problem, so I went to see.
The symptoms now are:
TC light remains on. ABS light goes out.
Engine Management light on.
Rev counter flicks between 5-7000rpm
Code says no rpm signal
Car does not start.
A lot more and different symptoms to standard ABS ECU failure.
Has something been unplugged somewhere? He did stretch the main ECU out of the way.
Does the ABS unit have differing setup if manual or auto. Extra rpm signal maybe?
Hope this is enough info for someone to diagnose. If anymore info needed just ask.
:'( :'(
My first thought is that 2.5 implies pre-facelift therefore 3 channel ABS and 2.6 implies facelift therefore 4 channel ABS & incompatible with original ECU and probably incompatible with engine ECU as well. :-\
It isn't that simple of course but I would assume that they were incompatible until part numbers & chassis numbers had been checked
Both are facelift models. Can only think the 2.6 was an auto. Just need to source a good 2.5 module then probably attack it myself and try to recuperate some of my loss.