Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: pauls on 06 June 2013, 22:23:30
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This one is for Robg. lost the link to the alloy wheel paint :'( It was germany i think.
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Wurth iirc. ;)
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http://www.performancemotorcare.com/acatalog/Wurth_German_Alloy_Silver_Wheel_Lacquer___400ml__1149.html
Did mine last year..
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=104617.0
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Is that OK to go straight onto the bare metal? Aluminium alloys normally require a special primer I thought, like Hammerite's water based special metals primer. If not the paint looks good for a year then starts coming off.
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I used Autoglym aerosol wheel silver off of the bay :y :y :y
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Cheers Chaps, Ordered some :y
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Is that OK to go straight onto the bare metal? Aluminium alloys normally require a special primer I thought, like Hammerite's water based special metals primer. If not the paint looks good for a year then starts coming off.
Any decent etch primer would do for alloy.
Or leave them bare for a few weeks so it oxidises
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any metal surface primer will do the job.. and its a must.. and if you want it to be stronger, sand the primed surface also (800,1200,1500)
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I would always use an etch on alloy (no point on steel unless you mix your own) as it bonds so much better
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Agreed, aluminium/aluminium alloy needs an etch primer for good paint adhesion ;)
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Agreed, aluminium/aluminium alloy needs an etch primer for good paint adhesion ;)
I always use epoxy and it never missed a beat :)
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Agreed, aluminium/aluminium alloy needs an etch primer for good paint adhesion ;)
I always use epoxy and it never missed a beat :)
Cost cem ;)
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Agreed, aluminium/aluminium alloy needs an etch primer for good paint adhesion ;)
I always use epoxy and it never missed a beat :)
Cost cem ;)
1 galon of good quality epoxy approx 60-70£.. once you buy, believe me its cheap ;D you can paint everything ;D ;D
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Is wurth trade only?i have a store nearby and my mate swears by their penetrating spray.
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here's how they look one year on :y
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=114643.msg1458624#msg1458624
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Is wurth trade only?i have a store nearby and my mate swears by their penetrating spray.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wurth-German-Alloy-Silver-Wheel-Spray-Paint-/271212945958?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item3f258d2226
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thanks for the link :y
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Agreed, aluminium/aluminium alloy needs an etch primer for good paint adhesion ;)
I always use epoxy and it never missed a beat :)
Cost cem ;)
1 galon of good quality epoxy approx 60-70£.. once you buy, believe me its cheap ;D you can paint everything ;D ;D
I've not had brilliant results with epoxy glue and aluminium. Not nearly as good as steel anyway. I suspect any paint or glue would stick better to clean oxidised aluminum than to freshly sanded alu. Alu is very keen to oxidise albeit only the surface.
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Agreed, aluminium/aluminium alloy needs an etch primer for good paint adhesion ;)
I always use epoxy and it never missed a beat :)
Cost cem ;)
1 galon of good quality epoxy approx 60-70£.. once you buy, believe me its cheap ;D you can paint everything ;D ;D
I've not had brilliant results with epoxy glue and aluminium. Not nearly as good as steel anyway. I suspect any paint or glue would stick better to clean oxidised aluminum than to freshly sanded alu. Alu is very keen to oxidise albeit only the surface.
painted 2 sets of alu wheels , not even a scratch or stone chip on epoxy but paint and laquer had small damages from stone chips as expected.. what brand you use ?
ps: I'm using glassurite brand , also tested on plastic parts without primer and no problems so far.. :-\
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as a general rule, epoxy primer is too much dependant on application rather than the surface..
hardener ratio and surface thickness and dry-up time (before actual painting) is critical,
if it didnt dry up properly you can remove even with your finger nail..
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here's how they look one year on :y
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=114643.msg1458624#msg1458624
wow that's pretty convincing that the paint works direct on freshly sanded aluminium with no primer.
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I painted one spoke and a section of rim on a set of Elite alloys I bought about 5 years ago . After a lot of searching I found that most German manufactured alloys wheels use Wurth paint . Here's a couple of photos of the repair , as you can see the flake size and shade are exactly as original . I used U-Pol UV resistent lacquer to finish.
There has been no deterioration in the finish over the years.
The painted spoke
(http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t261/olympia5776/Omega/FinepixuptoFeb2010194.jpg) (http://s162.photobucket.com/user/olympia5776/media/Omega/FinepixuptoFeb2010194.jpg.html)
(http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t261/olympia5776/Omega/FinepixuptoFeb2010196.jpg) (http://s162.photobucket.com/user/olympia5776/media/Omega/FinepixuptoFeb2010196.jpg.html)
(http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t261/olympia5776/Omega/FinepixuptoFeb2010210.jpg) (http://s162.photobucket.com/user/olympia5776/media/Omega/FinepixuptoFeb2010210.jpg.html)
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Nice Job! :y
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Can't see the join at all, great job. Can we take bets on which spoke it is in the final photo? £500 says it's the ten o'clock one ;)
Was that direct onto sanded ally as well or did you use a primer on the bare metal?
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I struck lucky buying a set of Elite wheels off E bay and when they arrived they were literally boxed and as new. One wheel had two light scratch marks which had went through the paint and into the alloy . I flatted back the scratches to the alloy base feathering the old paint filled and smoothed the scratches ,although as I said they were very light ,and then applied several light coats of U-Pol high build primer flattening back with wet 1200 grit after each coat . The remainder of the wheel was in such perfect condition I wanted to keep the painting to a minimum. I think there are three light coats of Wurth paint ( It must have been 6 years ago now although the photos are dated 2010 ) At that time I was using aerosols .
The lacquer is U-Pol UV resistent No 1 which I always used until I started spraying with a compressor , and found it absolutley clear with no taint. I would have applied six or eight light to medium coats of lacquer allowing time to flash off in between and wet flatted with 1200 or 1500 every second coat . The last coat was 2000 grit wet and then compounded and polished.The finish is still as day 1 .
The re painted spoke is at 11 o'clock in the last photo.( I think............. :-\ ) and the repair continues to the rim of the spoke on the other side of the valve port taking in the recess for the valve port and up to about 3/4 " from the rim .