Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: kluku5 on 11 June 2013, 16:58:19
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I asked about it in another thread, but it got quite long and messy, so decided to make another, fresh one with most current problems.
Anyway, from a scrapyard I got a new engine block, which they said was 3.0. However, it turned out to be a 3.2.
The thing is, I'd like to use my cylinder heads, which are being skimmed at the moment, since I don't have 3.2 heads.
I've searched about this matter, and found a topic with the same question, but it didn't have any answers.
A man in Estonia's forum says I shouldn't do it, because the compression ratios are too different, and that cylinder edge and combustion chamber won't match exactly and cause problems. Then again, if I used a 3.2 head gasket, it won't be over the combustion chamber edge.
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines-transmission/413779-3-0-heads-2-5-block-problems.html (http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines-transmission/413779-3-0-heads-2-5-block-problems.html) post no 15?
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=111254.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=111254.0) second post?
Also what difference is in the injectors of 3.0 and 3.2?
The whole thing would go together like this:
3.2 engine block
Everything else from my old 3.0 (including the flywheel)
So, will the 3.0 heads and cams cause problems, or should it work fine?
Thank you!
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Also, should I replace fuel pressure regulator for a 3.2 one, or would one from a 3.0 do well?
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I have a feeling the extra combustion area in the 3.2 is taken up by dished pistons so you might well find that the combustion chambers are the same size.
The fuel pressure regulators and injectors are different, so stick with the original ones that were on the car.
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So I'm fine if I slap the 3.0 heads on there and use 3.2 HG's? Thank you, this was the answer I was looking for so long ;)
I don't have anything else from the 3.2 engine, so I really have no choice at the moment but to put on fpr and injectors from the original, 3.0 engine.
I don't need to get ECU remapped do I?
http://www.clubcalibra.com/engine-tuning-nitrous-(nos)-turbo-boost/y32se-into-calibra-turbo-questions/ (http://www.clubcalibra.com/engine-tuning-nitrous-(nos)-turbo-boost/y32se-into-calibra-turbo-questions/)
Check the last post on page one and top 4 posts on page two.
If he's running 3.2 with 2.5 ECU, I believe I'll be fine with 3.0 ECU?
You've been a huge help anyway so Thanks again.
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Early 3.0L heads dont have the holes for the coil packs,drilled were as later ones did,
There is a guide in help section i think.
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I'm going to put the 3.0 DIS pack, leads and plugs on the 3.2. Well I guess the plugs are the same, but they are fairly new, so I'm gonna use them.
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Engine is together, still not good.
It runs poorly and shakes on idle, and wont go over 2500 rpm. Could this mean I have a blocked exhaust, which is the easiest/fastest way to check it?
Got the following codes:
89 O2 Sensor 2 Open Circuit
73 Mass Air Flow Sensor Voltage Low <-- Replaced with a known good one, still got it
13 O2 Sensor 1 Open Circuit
144 Immobiliser No Signal <-- Can this be because I only put in 3.2 block, EVERYTHING else from my old 3.0?
57 Idle Air Control Voltage Low
21 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Voltage High
129 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Feedback Voltage Low
86 Injector Valve 6 Voltage Low
31 No Engine RPM Signal
Also, badly enough I just noticed, that the old exhaust manifold gasket won't cover one of the SAI holes completly on neither side, and unfortunately I know the new ones are exactly the same. There's also smoke coming from that area from both sides...
(http://s11.postimg.org/jt2guao0z/IMAG0067.jpg) Bottom right of centre exaust.
Why I say uncovered? Because the gaskets don't even have holes for the SAI system, neither the old ones nor the new. Are they supposed to be like this?
The SAI system is removed, and the pipes from exhaust manis blocked. Found that the fuse has been removed before me.
I'm thinking I need to check the exhaust for blockage and rip half the engine apart again, and find a way to seal the SAI pipes :S
Needless to say I'm desperate about this already, ANY help is very much welcome.
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Update.
I crawled under, hoping that maybe I'll find something wrong.
Both of the cats are hot, but I can hold my hand on one of them, but the other is too hot to touch. Does this mean that the cooler cat is blocked, or could it hint that that bank is not working correctly?
The cat that's cooler is passenger side in your country.
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So, yes, the cooler cat was completely blocked. I cut it open, emptied and welded it.
The car is now running like a dream.
Except the whistle from the empty cat :P
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Good result......... :y :y
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Yeah, as it turns out, this combination of heads and block does work, no leaks detected so far.
I remember I found a post about re-tensioning a cambelt after some mileage, but cannot find it anymore. Can someone confirm it needs to be checked and re-tensioned some time?
Thank You!
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Yeah, as it turns out, this combination of heads and block does work, no leaks detected so far.
I remember I found a post about re-tensioning a cambelt after some mileage, but cannot find it anymore. Can someone confirm it needs to be checked and re-tensioned some time?
Thank You!
I have never needed to retension the cambelt. Easy enough to check if you are concerned though, auxiliary belt off, cambelt cover off and check that the pointer on the spring loaded tensioner is still pointing at the lug on the backplate. (it will be)
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Yeah, as it turns out, this combination of heads and block does work, no leaks detected so far.
I remember I found a post about re-tensioning a cambelt after some mileage, but cannot find it anymore. Can someone confirm it needs to be checked and re-tensioned some time?
Thank You!
I have never needed to retension the cambelt. Easy enough to check if you are concerned though, auxiliary belt off, cambelt cover off and check that the pointer on the spring loaded tensioner is still pointing at the lug on the backplate. (it will be)
It needs to be checked at the No.1 TDC position for accuracy. :y
But agreed, if the belt was fitted correctly, no need to check it.