Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: P6UL K on 06 September 2013, 11:53:59
-
Yes, yes I know it's been covered a million times before!
I've recently bought Twiglets old Black DTi Estate off of him which came with a box of replacement vacuum solenoid parts, I've replaced the one by the N/S suspension turret and the two down on the O/S by the rad.
Now my actual question is, is there a specific solenoid that causes the actual problem of causing no boost? I have one solenoid left and a medium sized thing with a gear wheel on it? Where would that go?
I've also been replacing the vacuum tubing as I've gone along just in case the rubber joiners are split somewhere.
-
Have you checked the big rubber connector on the vacuum pump at the back of the block? Is the EGR working? What codes do you have?
-
Have you checked the big rubber connector on the vacuum pump at the back of the block? Is the EGR working? What codes do you have?
I'm new to this diesel malarkey so alas I haven't done much other than go on what James has told me... So no I haven't got any codes - but will get them over the weekend, when you say back of the block do you mean between the bulk head and the head it's self? I wasn't aware of this big rubber connecter but I'll check it - what does it look like? EGR?! Oh dear! Where's that? :-\
-
The vac pump is on the back of the head, driven by the cam, you can see it if you look from the O/S, there's a big rubber connector connected to this.
EGR easy to spot if you take the black ecotec cover off (though not necessary), held on with two Torx bolts.
-
Ok thanks :y
With regard to the rubber connector, am I just checking for splits etc...? What about the EGR? What am I looking for with that? :-\
-
Ok thanks :y
With regard to the rubber connector, am I just checking for splits etc...? What about the EGR? What am I looking for with that? :-\
Usually it falls apart when you touch it.
Remove it and check it can hold a vacuum.
And have you checked the 90 degree joint on the back of the turbo actuator?
-
If the EGR is stuck open then the exhaust gas velocity drops and any boost from the turbo tends to dissipate to the exhaust.
The result is no go and often black smoke
-
Ok thanks :y
With regard to the rubber connector, am I just checking for splits etc...? What about the EGR? What am I looking for with that? :-\
Usually it falls apart when you touch it.
Remove it and check it can hold a vacuum.
And have you checked the 90 degree joint on the back of the turbo actuator?
Okay-doke I'll check that rubber elbow when I'm over my garage on Sunday, also the vacuum pipe is new to the turbo actuator - replaced it with new pipe to be sure.
-
If the EGR is stuck open then the exhaust gas velocity drops and any boost from the turbo tends to dissipate to the exhaust.
The result is no go and often black smoke
I'll whip that off on Sunday too and give it a good clean with some carb cleaner :y
-
Keeps your eyes open I could be scrapping my 2.2 dti if your interested just found myself a nice 3.2 elite what ive always wanted ;-).
-
If the EGR is stuck open then the exhaust gas velocity drops and any boost from the turbo tends to dissipate to the exhaust.
The result is no go and often black smoke
I'll whip that off on Sunday too and give it a good clean with some carb cleaner :y
Never made it over there today because of the weather so i'm heading over there in the morning.
-
Ok thanks :y
With regard to the rubber connector, am I just checking for splits etc...? What about the EGR? What am I looking for with that? :-\
Usually it falls apart when you touch it.
Remove it and check it can hold a vacuum.
And have you checked the 90 degree joint on the back of the turbo actuator?
Right I've checked the EGR, removed it and have it a good clean up with carb cleaner... Seems to be moving in and out ok with some sprung force to it.
Have also checked vacuum, there is vacuum there but not what I'd call a strong vacuum...
-
Out if my box of bits supplied by someone on here who I can't recall is...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/billycabrio/2F987D3C-4DDC-4EAE-9ED0-FE4640013E30-1652-000001B9BA65CFA3_zps88a6153e.jpg)
Any hints on where these go?
-
Top dunno
Middle boost pressure senor
Bottom vac pump
-
Think i might change the vac pump too - Just in case...
Also, do you get the feeling that people are fed up helping issues with the 2.2DTi...? :D ;D
-
There's not that many people on here who've got them to be honest and when the fuel pump fails they are generally scrapped.
-
There's not that many people on here who've got them to be honest and when the fuel pump fails they are generally scrapped.
Its not the pump that fails, the mechanics are bullet proof, its the drive transistors in the electronic module. These can be replaced by some outfits for a few hundred notes.
-
There's not that many people on here who've got them to be honest and when the fuel pump fails they are generally scrapped.
Its not the pump that fails, the mechanics are bullet proof, its the drive transistors in the electronic module. These can be replaced by some outfits for a few hundred notes.
About £400 at every place I spoke too, bigger problem with my car was that I could see no way to remove the EDC (specifically to get at cutting the two black wires) with the pump in situ, so that means removing the pump, which in turn means locking the crank etc... and on a 170K car it raises the question of replacing the chain guides and what if the turbo or something else expensive was to die next... do you really spend that sort of money on an 11 year old car? On a V6 I wouldn't question it, on a DTi it was a different conclusion for me.
Should add though, parts of my DTi live on in various other cars :y
-
Last one I had done was 200 notes by a company in Cannock (Tachosoft? on a Vectra C), wires were tricky to cut but managed it, I simply extended the wires befreo re-fit to make soldering easier.
These engines do intergallactic miles so not much to worry about with the rest.
The trick is the priming bulb with one way valve for EDU longevity
-
Last one I had done was 200 notes by a company in Cannock (Tachosoft? on a Vectra C), wires were tricky to cut but managed it, I simply extended the wires befreo re-fit to make soldering easier.
These engines do intergallactic miles so not much to worry about with the rest.
The trick is the priming bulb with one way valve for EDU longevity
Yep, I spoke to them at the time, I think they are quoting £380 now if it's the usual issue.
Where did you install the priming bulb? Only obvious place to me was at the front of the engine (In an Omega with the engine facing North / South) as it is away from the hot turbocharger and manifold, Guessing that would be awkward on a FWD car though.
-
The bulb is just by the fuel filter on my Vectra. Just sits nicely out the way but not used since I replaced the top injector seals, but I wont remove it.
-
Just checked, still two hundred :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frontera-DTi-TD-Bosch-VP44-VP30-Diesel-Pump-EDC-EDU-Module-Repair-Service-VOR-/121173471953?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c368072d1
-
There's not that many people on here who've got them to be honest and when the fuel pump fails they are generally scrapped.
im no help to your problem but I love my dti wish I could find spares a bit a little cheaper though :y
-
Just checked, still two hundred :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frontera-DTi-TD-Bosch-VP44-VP30-Diesel-Pump-EDC-EDU-Module-Repair-Service-VOR-/121173471953?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c368072d1
Interesting! They quoted me £380 on the phone, couldn't find anything on eBay when I was looking.
-
Just checked, still two hundred :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frontera-DTi-TD-Bosch-VP44-VP30-Diesel-Pump-EDC-EDU-Module-Repair-Service-VOR-/121173471953?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c368072d1
Interesting! They quoted me £380 on the phone, couldn't find anything on eBay when I was looking.
I recall that being the price for a full pump
-
Bottom line is that these diesel setups are simple.
A very useful diag tool is a Gunsons Lo-Gauge, this allows you to measure the vac in the system be it pre or post actuator valve.
You can also use the 'suck' method to test things by sucking on certain pipes to ensure the actuators operate.
-
Just checked, still two hundred :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frontera-DTi-TD-Bosch-VP44-VP30-Diesel-Pump-EDC-EDU-Module-Repair-Service-VOR-/121173471953?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c368072d1
Interesting! They quoted me £380 on the phone, couldn't find anything on eBay when I was looking.
I recall that being the price for a full pump
Oh well, too late now, far too much required to resurrect my DTi as most of it's parts are in other Omega's now! Shame as it was a decent car before the fuel pump issue.
-
Bottom line is that these diesel setups are simple.
A very useful diag tool is a Gunsons Lo-Gauge, this allows you to measure the vac in the system be it pre or post actuator valve.
You can also use the 'suck' method to test things by sucking on certain pipes to ensure the actuators operate.
There's a couple of Vac tanks that can get missed while trying to diagnose issues - one in the drivers wing (where the carbon canister would be on a V6) and one behind the pollen filter. Most vac issues seem to be traceable to those rubber elbows imho.
-
Bottom line is that these diesel setups are simple.
A very useful diag tool is a Gunsons Lo-Gauge, this allows you to measure the vac in the system be it pre or post actuator valve.
You can also use the 'suck' method to test things by sucking on certain pipes to ensure the actuators operate.
There's a couple of Vac tanks that can get missed while trying to diagnose issues - one in the drivers wing (where the carbon canister would be on a V6) and one behind the pollen filter. Most vac issues seem to be traceable to those rubber elbows imho.
Ah right, back on topic! Ha ha :D :D ;D
Thanks VXL V6, I'll check them out as well... :y
-
Sorry for the thread drift :-[ :)
-
No worries, good to know for the future!
I might start a 'DTi Owners Roll Call' thread, at least we'll all know who's who out of the few of us that own them.
-
Ive just got a omega 2.2 dti lol and love it much cheaper to run then all my petrol omegas ive had :y
-
I'm looking forward to getting this issue sorted and driving her around! Been parked up for around 2 years now!
-
Bottom line is that these diesel setups are simple.
A very useful diag tool is a Gunsons Lo-Gauge, this allows you to measure the vac in the system be it pre or post actuator valve.
You can also use the 'suck' method to test things by sucking on certain pipes to ensure the actuators operate.
There's a couple of Vac tanks that can get missed while trying to diagnose issues - one in the drivers wing (where the carbon canister would be on a V6) and one behind the pollen filter. Most vac issues seem to be traceable to those rubber elbows imho.
Is this the one in the drivers wing you speak of...?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/billycabrio/null_zpsadfb5893.jpg)
-
Thast the diesel pre-heater.
Been looking for one of these to play with if anybody has a spare
-
I noticed there's a couple if vacuum hoses going into the cabin through the bulkhead on the drivers side... Should I be concerned about these?
-
I've also found the little vacuum box thing by the pollen filter, does it come out? As its a bugger to get at >:(
-
The only thing to go wrong with the vacuum reservoir on the pollen filter box is the two rubber elbows on the top perishing...
-
Is the management light on, if not does it flash on when you start up?
-
Best way to test the vacuum system is with a vacuum gauge. It should read at least 25 inches. Flick / wobble all the rubber connectors. Any drop in the vacuum reading when you disturb a rubber connector means its split or perished. The U shaped vacuum bridge at the back of the head in particular suffers from the heat and perishes or collapses, which is critical because it supplies everything other than the brake servo and causes all sorts of nasties.
The turbo is a variable geometry unit, so it doesn't need a wastegate. The device the vacuum pipe feeds is to adjust the vanes. With vacuum applied the vanes are fully extended, This is the normal operating condition at idle. When the boost sensor towards the back of the inlet manifold senses the boost approaching 2 bar, the vacuum is cut off, the vanes retract and boost is controlled.
Also, in the event of the ECU (or EDC) picking up a critical malfunction, limp mode is activated, one feature of this is that the boost solenoid is deactivated, the turbo actuator gets no vacuum so boost is inhibited.
Are you getting vacuum to the turbo actuator at idle? You should see the actuator pull towards the drivers side of the car upon starting the engine?
-
P.S. The 2 vacuum pipes that disappear into the car, one comes from the vacuum reservoir on the pollen filter housing, feeds into the car as a vacuum feed for the air recurculator valve for the climate, and the other comes back out of the same grommet and feeds the heater bypass valve below the exhaust.
So, The vacuum system is split 3 ways. The brake servo, The climate control feed, and the engine systems feed. Hence the need for 2 reservoirs.
-
Andy where have you been?! Amazing info, thank you very much!! I'm at work at the mo but will reply in full tomorrow once I've been to the car and tried your suggestions :y :y
-
Had my 2.2Dti for 4 years and all i can say about that engine is it was bomb proof never missed a beat the only major issue i had is that they only come in the three pedal versoin pitty no one can covert them to the two pedal version
-
Had my 2.2Dti for 4 years and all i can say about that engine is it was bomb proof never missed a beat the only major issue i had is that they only come in the three pedal versoin pitty no one can covert them to the two pedal version
Now that would be a pointless conversion! 4 pot, auto, diesel! Really?
Each to their own I suppose! ???
-
Had my 2.2Dti for 4 years and all i can say about that engine is it was bomb proof never missed a beat the only major issue i had is that they only come in the three pedal versoin pitty no one can covert them to the two pedal version
Now that would be a pointless conversion! 4 pot, auto, diesel! Really?
Each to their own I suppose! ???
It wouldn't be pointless for me as i have a damaged left shoulder and the gear changing is very painful at times i now have the vec c 2.2dti auto and apart from the injector seals leaking a little it does drive quite well for a vec c its nothing compaired to the omega tho
-
The only thing to go wrong with the vacuum reservoir on the pollen filter box is the two rubber elbows on the top perishing...
I've inspected both these and they seem ok, but I might renew just for peace of mind
-
Is the management light on, if not does it flash on when you start up?
Nope all seems fine on that front, all the idiot lights come on and go off fine... No EML at all :-/
-
Best way to test the vacuum system is with a vacuum gauge. It should read at least 25 inches. Flick / wobble all the rubber connectors. Any drop in the vacuum reading when you disturb a rubber connector means its split or perished. The U shaped vacuum bridge at the back of the head in particular suffers from the heat and perishes or collapses, which is critical because it supplies everything other than the brake servo and causes all sorts of nasties.
The turbo is a variable geometry unit, so it doesn't need a wastegate. The device the vacuum pipe feeds is to adjust the vanes. With vacuum applied the vanes are fully extended, This is the normal operating condition at idle. When the boost sensor towards the back of the inlet manifold senses the boost approaching 2 bar, the vacuum is cut off, the vanes retract and boost is controlled.
Also, in the event of the ECU (or EDC) picking up a critical malfunction, limp mode is activated, one feature of this is that the boost solenoid is deactivated, the turbo actuator gets no vacuum so boost is inhibited.
Are you getting vacuum to the turbo actuator at idle? You should see the actuator pull towards the drivers side of the car upon starting the engine?
Dragged SWHMBO round with me this morning just to start the car while I watch the actuator and it does move completely in like you said it should... Took it out for a quick drive but still no boost - very strange!
-
Out if my box of bits supplied by someone on here who I can't recall is...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/billycabrio/2F987D3C-4DDC-4EAE-9ED0-FE4640013E30-1652-000001B9BA65CFA3_zps88a6153e.jpg)
Any hints on where these go?
I've just changed the boost sensor and its still the same, not going to bother with the vac pump - although I've not measured the vacuum strength it seems to be working ok.
Which just leaves that other part? Any idea what it does and where it goes?
-
When you start the car, and the actuator pulls inwards, rev the engine quite heavily. You should see the actuator swing towards the passenger side of the car to control the boost as it reaches 2 bar, and the hose from the intercooler to the inlet manifold "blow up" under boost pressure, and the actuator should pull in again upon return to tickover.
Any loud hissing noises and black smoke from the exhaust indicate a leak of boost pressure, from a burst hose or damaged intercooler?
The actuator pulled in and no increase in boost with engine revs, would suggest a defective turbo, stuck vanes maybe? With the engine switched off, take the hose off the silver end, look inside and see if you can spin the spool, and that it doesn't have excessive movement up and down?
-
The vacuum feeling OK isn't enough... It should be measured with a gauge and have at least 20 inches.
The two most indispensable tools for the miggy 2.2 dti :-
- A handheld vacuum pump / gauge
- "O P Com", and a OBD-II extension lead with a right angle male connector to make driving whilst "O P Com" is connected possible...
-
When you start the car, and the actuator pulls inwards, rev the engine quite heavily. You should see the actuator swing towards the passenger side of the car to control the boost as it reaches 2 bar, and the hose from the intercooler to the inlet manifold "blow up" under boost pressure, and the actuator should pull in again upon return to tickover.
Any loud hissing noises and black smoke from the exhaust indicate a leak of boost pressure, from a burst hose or damaged intercooler?
The actuator pulled in and no increase in boost with engine revs, would suggest a defective turbo, stuck vanes maybe? With the engine switched off, take the hose off the silver end, look inside and see if you can spin the spool, and that it doesn't have excessive movement up and down?
Hi Andy,
Upon starting the car the actuator does as you say it should, pulling across to the drivers side but under hard revving it doesn't seem to move at all - although the boost pipe onto the inlet definitely swells quite a bit. I had the N/S boost pipe off to see if it was split but its also seems ok, i did consider maybe the intercooler has collapsed or there is something blocking it?
Funny you mentioning a defective turbo as its actually a brand new unit from Essex Turbos, not sure when it was renewed as i dont have any paperwork for it but James/Twiglet told me about it but the car has sat on and off since Aug 2011... I have fully serviced the car.... New oil, filters etc to cover that base - I'm really stumped tbh!
-
The vacuum feeling OK isn't enough... It should be measured with a gauge and have at least 20 inches.
The two most indispensable tools for the miggy 2.2 dti :-
- A handheld vacuum pump / gauge
- "O P Com", and a OBD-II extension lead with a right angle male connector to make driving whilst "O P Com" is connected possible...
A mechanic friend is coming over tonight with his vacuum measuing tool, so i'll let you know on that one chap :y
-
The actuator should react to boost pressure readings from the sensor in the inlet manifold, that you've changed. If the hoses are blowing up, it is boosting, but if the actuator doesn't limit it, that says the turbo isn't giving enough pressure, or its escaping somewhere?
-
Am i right in saying that you wouldn't get normal boost running like you would if the car was under load?
I'll check the other boost pipes later but there isn't the normal 'boost leaking' noise that you get like I've experienced on previous turbocharged petrol cars.
Its a bit cheeky, but could i call you later this evening when i'm back at the car with my mate? Prob be around 8pm-ish.
Perhaps its not a vacuum issue after all, still a frustrating one tho!!
-
Right mechanic friend has been and gone and he is as frustrated as i am now! :o
We swapped the AFM over, unplugged this and checked all number of things, really strange now that all the vacuum issues are done and this is still happening.
He has said that its almost like the car has gone into limp mode but there is no lights on the dash, so tomorrow he's going to plug in his Code Scanner and take the car for a drive to get some live readings as to what maybe up with the car - May have logged some fault codes.
I'll report back in due course.
-
No lights suggests that the bulb(s) are missing/dead. No telling what had been fiddled with before Twiglet bought it either :-\
-
I did suspect that but as it was a funeral car I dismissed it
-
When I get a mo ishall rummage for the oruginal query
-
When I get a mo ishall rummage for the oruginal query
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=102831.msg1286717#msg1286717 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=102831.msg1286717#msg1286717)
The trouble with it was present long before Twiglet bought it... had been suggested that someone had been meddling when they went to view the car :-X
-
After Sam had a look,but before Twiglet bought it ,I went and had a look at it.The guy drove me around the block in it,and I had the impression the turbo was chiming in at some point,but the road he drove on was way too short to get a realistic impression of exactly how well it was running.
He was under the impression that it had a problem with a vacuum pipe,but I don't think he knew much about engines tbh.
I don't think Twiglet ever got round to investigating it in any serious way. Too many projects on the go,as usual. ;D
-
Nothing new there ;D ;D ;D
Duff or wrong turbo maybe, but could it be a compression issue creating the illusion of the turbo not kicking in :-\
-
Nothing new there ;D ;D ;D
Duff or wrong turbo maybe, but could it be a compression issue creating the illusion of the turbo not kicking in :-\
I'm thinking duff turbo as well,it does happen :-X
-
A cheapo recon/second hand rather than new maybe :-\
-
A cheapo recon/second hand rather than new maybe :-\
A mate of mine bought a new turbo for his A4 tdi,when it wouldn't go he replaced just about everything as he was sure it couldn't be the “new” turbo,you can guess the rest ::)
-
My brother had an issue with his turbo not boosting on his td Renault traffic and it turned out to be a leaky inlet manifold gasket. Maybe no any use to you. :)
-
When I get a mo ishall rummage for the oruginal query
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=102831.msg1286717#msg1286717 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=102831.msg1286717#msg1286717)
The trouble with it was present long before Twiglet bought it... had been suggested that someone had been meddling when they went to view the car :-X
Cheers, I'd seen Sam's thread when i was using the search initially to see what might be up with the car
-
Nothing new there ;D ;D ;D
Duff or wrong turbo maybe, but could it be a compression issue creating the illusion of the turbo not kicking in :-\
I'll get in touch with Essex Turbos in the morning and see if they can shed any light on when this turbo was fitted as it still has all their labels on! ???
If the car hasn't moved or done many miles since it was fitted i might be able to get them to have a look if i can get the car to them.... Gotta be worth a phone call?
-
Dropped the hearse off at my mates garage thus morning, but on the drive there the car came on boost about 5x and pulled really well but other than that was the normal sluggish self. My brain is wondering if a gummed up EGR would cause this issue?
I literally replaced all and sundry to do with the boost issues now! I've even been on the phone to Essex Turbos who are going to dig through their paperwork and let me know why the car went into them for a new unit.
-
ive just got a omega 2.2 dti cd its a lovely car its my 3rd omega but i think theres a problem with the turbo side of it i can feel the turbo kick in at around 2000rpm but it goes away after 3000 and then doesnt seem to have any go in it im wondering if the turbo has gone or it could be some other problem ive only just got the car and its been stood for a while so its probs in need of a service but is there any commen problem that it could be
-
Dropped the hearse off at my mates garage thus morning, but on the drive there the car came on boost about 5x and pulled really well but other than that was the normal sluggish self. My brain is wondering if a gummed up EGR would cause this issue?
I literally replaced all and sundry to do with the boost issues now!
2 weeks later the car is still there....
The plot thickens!
-
Guess what.....?
Yup, it's still there :-\
-
Welcome to DTI ownership, vac problems can be an absolute pain to trace without a proper gauge I've found. :'(
-
Welcome to DTI ownership, vac problems can be an absolute pain to trace without a proper gauge I've found. :'(
Remind me what gauge I'd need again? It's so frustrating as it can only be something so simple! And to add to the annoyingness it still boosts intermittently! ::)
-
Gunsons Lo-Gauge
-
I've finally picked the car up from the garage complete with an MOT! All that was needed was anew exhaust, headlamp self-levelling motor, rear indicator bulbs & a battery clamp!
And now the bad news... Its still not boosting >:( ::) :'( :D
-
The vacuum feeling OK isn't enough... It should be measured with a gauge and have at least 20 inches.
The two most indispensable tools for the miggy 2.2 dti :-
- A handheld vacuum pump / gauge
- "O P Com", and a OBD-II extension lead with a right angle male connector to make driving whilst "O P Com" is connected possible...
Hi Andy,
Finally got myself a vacuum gauge, on idle the needle is showing 20-22Ins Hg - Is that right?
-
Yep, thats full vac
-
Brilliant...
What now...? :(
-
Brilliant...
What now...? :(
Break it for parts ;D
-
I think if I had the space to do that I would as I'm getting towards the end of my tether with the car! But issues aside the car is brilliant for an elite spec
-
got another good turbo here ,
-
This one is nigh on brand new mate, just waiting to hear back from Essex Turbos re the history of what/where/when it was fitted.
Cheers tho...
-
This one is nigh on brand new mate, just waiting to hear back from Essex Turbos re the history of what/where/when it was fitted.
Cheers tho...
it does look like its the turbo playing silly buggers though,nearly new or not :-\
-
I'll chase up Essex Turbos tomorrow, see what they have to say for themselves....
-
Well, we had a look at this today.
A couple of fault codes stored (none were "present"):
P0195 Malfunction code 1:
Coolant temperature is greater than 80 °C (176 °F)
Engine oil temperature is less than 70 °C (158 °F)
Note:
Engine-oil temperature and coolant temperature have no comparable characteristic curve.
P0400 Malfunction code 2:
Actual exhaust gas recirculation quantity is too low
Coolant temperature between 40 °C (104 °F) and 100 °C (212 °F)
Intake air temperature between -5 °C (23 °F) and 45 °C (113 °F)
Atmospheric pressure between 900 hPa ( 0.9 bar ) and 1100 hPa ( 1.1 bar )
Above conditions must be fulfilled for at least 10 s .
Effect:
Maximum performance will be reduced.
Exhaust gas recirculation valve is switched off
P1125 Malfunction code 1:
Ignition ON
Coolant temperature between 40 °C (104 °F) and 100 °C (212 °F)
The air mass calculated from the boost pressure is implausible with the measured air mass
Above condition must be fulfilled for at least 4.5 s .
Effect:
Maximum performance will be reduced.
Exhaust gas recirculation valve is switched off
Boost pressure control is not longer possible.
The above were cleared and did not return during a lengthy test drive during which time it performed with all the urgency of a slug on its' way to receive root canal treatment! It will apparently occasionally take off normally but, unfortunately, we were unable to persuade it to do so while watching the live data.
All vacuum actuators and corresponding valves were checked IAW TIS and performed correctly. MAF response to the EGR actuation was as specified as was boost pressure commanded by the boost pressure control actuator with the engine held at 3000 rpm. Swirl valve actuator could be observed operating correctly.
Coolant, oil and fuel temperature appeared plausible and responding to driving conditions although oil temperature remained 8 or 9 degrees C below reported coolant temperature and coolant temp as indicated by the engine was a good bit higher than reported by the instrument panel (100 deg. C from engine ECU with <90C at the panel). Curious that oil temp was lower than coolant but it was hardly being stretched. It was hardly performing at all, in fact.
During a test drive boost pressure was present whenever the engine was under load and probably about normal (bearing in mind I have no real experience of the live data to expect from this engine). It followed about 0.1-0.2 BAR below target boost pressure throughout and was making just under 2 BAR under full throttle. Throttle position was correctly reported in live data.
Injection start and quantity were following the desired values. Engine and pump speed looked correct. High pressure diagnosis sat at 0 throughout.
The MAF was reading around 400-430 at idle and only peaked to around 560 while driving. This struck me as strange, but, as said, I'm not that familiar with the ways of the tractor. :-\
Induction system was free of any obvious leaks and rubber intake hoses swelled when boost was present.
Power delivery was completely flat. No evidence of any boost-related power delivery whatsoever despite the fact that boost was there.
Engine started, idled and drove perfectly, just without significant power delivery.
So, conclusions?
Hmm <rubs chin>
Vacuum system is all working fine. We have boost pressure controllable by the actuator on the turbo, so suspect that's fine too. EGR is doing what it should, at idle, at least. If it were coming open under boost, I'd expect boost pressure to be bled away.
We have a code related to oil temperature and coolant temperature being inconsistent and this looks plausible given that the oil is consistently being reported cooler than oil. The code didn't return during a test drive, however.
We have a couple of codes suggesting a MAF issue - not plausible with boost pressure and the EGR quantity (which is presumably based on MAF response to EGR). MAF was reading as expected at idle and responded to EGR actuation, but surely if it's reading 430 ish at 800 RPM, it shouldn't top out at 560 at 3000 RPM with a BAR of boost? Codes didn't return during a run, so assume it hadn't gone into a deliberate limp at this stage
MAF has previously been replaced with a new genuine GM sensor to no avail.
No leaks in the induction system that could bypass the MAF.
Nevertheless, could a MAF issue be reducing the injection quantity, and thus limiting the power output despite the fact that the correct boost pressure is present?
I have a data log from the test drive.
I have a feeling that this is "something simple" but have no real experience with the dti, so little sense of what live data from a properly functioning example looks like, unfortunately.
Anyone got any ideas? :-\
-
Thanks very much for your time tonight Kevin it has been very much appreciated and has helped extinguish a few concerns I had about replacing other components, one of the keywords you mentioned while diagnosing was the swirl valve.... This word for some reason floated in my mind for quite awhile and I was pondering about it during the drive home.
It made me think of the issue some BMWs have with the swirl flaps shattering and entering the engine causing all sorts of damage, so with a little bit of Google searching I've come across this thread on the Vauxhall Owners network Forum:
http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/index.php?threads/vectra-2-2-dti-egr-valve-problems.325741/
Which had a few basic issues discussed but what caught my attention was this link to a video on YouTube regarding the swirl valve and what it controls:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZG9qFC1p_o
So this has led me to wonder if there is a massive carbon buildup within that chamber which is not allowing the valve flaps too close correctly so the EGR is operating correctly, the boost is entering and leaking away because these valves aren't closed correctly because of a possible carbon buildup?
What do you think?
-
Looks like they just blank off one intake valve to keep the flow velocity up, so their effect if not working would probably only be subtle. Doesn't mean the EGR isn't also gunked up, I suppose. Then again, we're getting decent boost.. :-\
-
Has the car had any of the following replaced...
Oil temp sensor
Ecu Coolant temp sensor
Coolant gauge sensor (if different to above)
Oil cooler (if fitted)
Thermostat
If the coolant/oil temp discrepancy could cause under fueling, then the fault must lie there if everything else appears in order :-\
-
Looks like they just blank off one intake valve to keep the flow velocity up, so their effect if not working would probably only be subtle. Doesn't mean the EGR isn't also gunked up, I suppose. Then again, we're getting decent boost.. :-\
I think, this weekend - weather providing I'll whip all the intake off and give it a good clean up, chances are after 164k I'd imagine it will be quite fouled up, whatever the issue is tho is causing very bad MPG! To your house and back I used a third of a tank of diesel and averaged MPG was 27-29!!
-
Has the car had any of the following replaced...
Oil temp sensor
Ecu Coolant temp sensor
Coolant gauge sensor (if different to above)
Oil cooler (if fitted)
Thermostat
If the coolant/oil temp discrepancy could cause under fueling, then the fault must lie there if everything else appears in order :-\
Hi Al,
Since I've owned the car, none if the above have been replaced. I don't mind changing a few sensors as their overall cost won't come to much. Need to try and research what of those sensors the DTi has as my trade counter at the local stealers is hard work at times :-/
-
My only issue with the temperature sensors is that, if it went into limp-home due to inconsistent oil / coolant temperature, it should have stored the code again, and it didn't. Engine ECU remained clear of codes after being initially cleared. :-\
Also, should have said that MAF figure at idle was with EGR disabled. With the EGR valve active MAF is at about 250 at idle.
Cleaning out the intake can't hurt, but I think the fault lies elsewhere. I reckon that gunked up one on the video had suffered a turbo oil seal failure to get that manky. It would provide an opportunity to check all the components on the intake side of the engine, though.
Wiring to the temperature sensors and security of connectors would be worth a check.
Don't suppose anyone has a working 2.2dti near me from which I could collect some live data for comparison purposes?
-
Don't suppose anyone has a working 2.2dti near me from which I could collect some live data for comparison purposes?
I can let you know next time Mark is over at mine with his much abused 2.2DTi (which will probably be when we do his rear bearings) if that's any use..
[edit] I should add - despite all the abuse it runs & drives just fine ;) all the interior trim is falling off but that seems to be a usual facelift problem ;D
-
My only issue with the temperature sensors is that, if it went into limp-home due to inconsistent oil / coolant temperature, it should have stored the code again, and it didn't. Engine ECU remained clear of codes after being initially cleared. :-\
Also, should have said that MAF figure at idle was with EGR disabled. With the EGR valve active MAF is at about 250 at idle.
Cleaning out the intake can't hurt, but I think the fault lies elsewhere. I reckon that gunked up one on the video had suffered a turbo oil seal failure to get that manky. It would provide an opportunity to check all the components on the intake side of the engine, though.
Wiring to the temperature sensors and security of connectors would be worth a check.
Don't suppose anyone has a working 2.2dti near me from which I could collect some live data for comparison purposes?
On way to work this morning the EML came on for about 10secs then went out, but on the way home it came on for a good 10min or so then went out again. How do i get the error codes up? Something to do with the key/brake pedal isn't it?
-
**And went into limp mode :-\
-
My only issue with the temperature sensors is that, if it went into limp-home due to inconsistent oil / coolant temperature, it should have stored the code again, and it didn't. Engine ECU remained clear of codes after being initially cleared. :-\
Also, should have said that MAF figure at idle was with EGR disabled. With the EGR valve active MAF is at about 250 at idle.
Cleaning out the intake can't hurt, but I think the fault lies elsewhere. I reckon that gunked up one on the video had suffered a turbo oil seal failure to get that manky. It would provide an opportunity to check all the components on the intake side of the engine, though.
Wiring to the temperature sensors and security of connectors would be worth a check.
Don't suppose anyone has a working 2.2dti near me from which I could collect some live data for comparison purposes?
On way to work this morning the EML came on for about 10secs then went out, but on the way home it came on for a good 10min or so then went out again. How do i get the error codes up? Something to do with the key/brake pedal isn't it?
not on the DTi
-
My only issue with the temperature sensors is that, if it went into limp-home due to inconsistent oil / coolant temperature, it should have stored the code again, and it didn't. Engine ECU remained clear of codes after being initially cleared. :-\
Also, should have said that MAF figure at idle was with EGR disabled. With the EGR valve active MAF is at about 250 at idle.
Cleaning out the intake can't hurt, but I think the fault lies elsewhere. I reckon that gunked up one on the video had suffered a turbo oil seal failure to get that manky. It would provide an opportunity to check all the components on the intake side of the engine, though.
Wiring to the temperature sensors and security of connectors would be worth a check.
Don't suppose anyone has a working 2.2dti near me from which I could collect some live data for comparison purposes?
All DTi's i've had looked like that when cleaning inlet manifold after 100K ???
-
Don't suppose anyone has a working 2.2dti near me from which I could collect some live data for comparison purposes?
I can let you know next time Mark is over at mine with his much abused 2.2DTi (which will probably be when we do his rear bearings) if that's any use..
[edit] I should add - despite all the abuse it runs & drives just fine ;) all the interior trim is falling off but that seems to be a usual facelift problem ;D
Sorry for the delay - that would be very useful. Always good to have a few datalogs from cars that aren't broken. ;D
-
My only issue with the temperature sensors is that, if it went into limp-home due to inconsistent oil / coolant temperature, it should have stored the code again, and it didn't. Engine ECU remained clear of codes after being initially cleared. :-\
Also, should have said that MAF figure at idle was with EGR disabled. With the EGR valve active MAF is at about 250 at idle.
Cleaning out the intake can't hurt, but I think the fault lies elsewhere. I reckon that gunked up one on the video had suffered a turbo oil seal failure to get that manky. It would provide an opportunity to check all the components on the intake side of the engine, though.
Wiring to the temperature sensors and security of connectors would be worth a check.
Don't suppose anyone has a working 2.2dti near me from which I could collect some live data for comparison purposes?
On way to work this morning the EML came on for about 10secs then went out, but on the way home it came on for a good 10min or so then went out again. How do i get the error codes up? Something to do with the key/brake pedal isn't it?
not on the DTi
Anyway of obtaining without an OBD reader?
-
last time i put my reader on i got a big fat zero. Anyone by you with Tech2? I have a good Turbo off of a 2.2dti in my garage if you get to the point you want to try it out. :y
-
I have had the EML come on on mine in the past few weeks, always just after a night shift and a around 2.5 deg C. limp mode until i could stop turn off engine and re-start then all was fine, when i get 5 min to look at my own car i will see if anything not as it should be, must be 6K since i last did inlet manifold but i also have the copper seal on injector one to do yet (and that is a cam shaft out job) nice. :y it does help having a spare 2.2dti engine with only 48K on the clock in the garage for the odd part now and again
-
last time i put my reader on i got a big fat zero. Anyone by you with Tech2? I have a good Turbo off of a 2.2dti in my garage if you get to the point you want to try it out. :y
Unfortunately Kevin is the nearest person to me so it's 160 mile round trip if I want to get my ECU read again... The results from the Tech2 show that the turbo is spooling up nicely and giving the required amount of boost its just that the boost is disappearing between the turbo and the engine somewhere...?
-
I have had the EML come on on mine in the past few weeks, always just after a night shift and a around 2.5 deg C. limp mode until i could stop turn off engine and re-start then all was fine.
Strange you should bring that up as that is exactly what my car done yesterday and again this morning! Never done it before either!
I'll have to see if I can borrow a generic code reader to see what codes have been stored with the EML coming on yesterday & today.
-
is your intercooler OK ? ??? no small holes ?
-
The system hasn't been pressure tested but James (Twiglet) has informed me it had a new intercooler by the previous owner when he also had the turbo and EGR renewed.
-
The whole intake from airbox to inlet manifold was sound as far as I could see. :y
-
The whole intake from airbox to inlet manifold was sound as far as I could see. :y
So Tech 2 is showing boost being produced but its not getting to the cylinders,its gotta be going somewhere ???
-
Butterfly valves in inlet manifold covered in carbon ???
-
The whole intake from airbox to inlet manifold was sound as far as I could see. :y
So Tech 2 is showing boost being produced but its not getting to the cylinders,its gotta be going somewhere ???
That's exactly it mate
-
Butterfly valves in inlet manifold covered in carbon ???
That and the valves on that YouTube link I am yet to inspect and de-carbon this weekend - Weather depending
-
Im with intercooler,remove and check it,had 1 go on my renault 11 turbo,used to run very high boost,then 1 day it dropped to hardly anything and the intercooler was no good :y
-
Im with intercooler,remove and check it,had 1 go on my renault 11 turbo,used to run very high boost,then 1 day it dropped to hardly anything and the intercooler was no good :y
The boost pipe work is holding the pressure though, as Kevin said there doesn't appear to be any boost leaks as the pipe from the intercooler to the inlet swells up
-
I think the boost is getting to the engine. There's nothing that could be stopping it. There is just not the fuel delivery to develop more than a fraction of the available power.
-
I think the boost is getting to the engine. There's nothing that could be stopping it. There is just not the fuel delivery to develop more than a fraction of the available power.
ECU issue perhaps?
-
Try pressure testing the inlet. Take the hose off the outlet of the turbo amd pressure it up to about 10 psi. I found a blowing manifold top cover gasket.
-
Try pressure testing the inlet. Take the hose off the outlet of the turbo amd pressure it up to about 10 psi. I found a blowing manifold top cover gasket.
That sounds easier than what it probably is to do... I have nothing to pressurise it with :-\
-
*Small update...
Oil & Coolant sensors on the ECU side replaced inbetween the bloody rain showers - issue still persists.... Changed oil too as it was as runny as water, black as soot and smelt of fuel!
Will check I/C next weekend for any air leaks, hopefully will get the inlet de-coked during the week.
-
*Small update...
Oil & Coolant sensors on the ECU side replaced inbetween the bloody rain showers - issue still persists.... Changed oil too as it was as runny as water, black as soot and smelt of fuel!
Will check I/C next weekend for any air leaks, hopefully will get the inlet de-coked during the week.
hmm thats a clue then,if fuel getting in the oil it isnt being burnt, does begin to sound very much like the boost sensor see the boost,ecu pumps more fuel in,but boost does not get to cylinders,ergo its leaking somewhere?
-
I have had the EML come on on mine in the past few weeks, always just after a night shift and a around 2.5 deg C. limp mode until i could stop turn off engine and re-start then all was fine, when i get 5 min to look at my own car i will see if anything not as it should be, must be 6K since i last did inlet manifold but i also have the copper seal on injector one to do yet (and that is a cam shaft out job) nice. :y it does help having a spare 2.2dti engine with only 48K on the clock in the garage for the odd part now and again
Did you get a chance to do this Joff?
-
Has the car had any of the following replaced...
Oil temp sensor - DONE
Ecu Coolant temp sensor - DONE
Coolant gauge sensor (if different to above) - DONE
Oil cooler (if fitted) - None fitted IIRC
Thermostat - Current one seems to be fine as the fans cut in okay
If the coolant/oil temp discrepancy could cause under fuelling, then the fault must lie there if everything else appears in order :-\
Any other thoughts....? :-\
-
I took a datalog from a working DTi this weekend but haven't had a change to look at it in detail yet. What was immediately obvious was that the MAF reading was much higher when pressing-on but about the same at idle. Boost pressure was very slightly higher but there was a lot more power being delivered.
Theories?
The MAF is lazy and not reporting true airflow to the ECU, so fuel quantity is low, hence power output is low.
The actual airflow is low for some reason despite boost pressure being there. Guessing boost pressure is measured at the manifold, though, so pretty much eliminates a leak or blockage upstream of that.
-
So pressure is there but not flow.....
Well the turbo pressure is controlled and the variable vanes will be modulated to achieve this.
So the question is why isnt the engine consuming the air, does the MAF reading v revs match (it should as its a diesel engine) ?
-
As said, haven't looked closely yet but MAF was roughly the same at idle. P1ULK's was topping out at about 600 at mid revs and MAP at just under 2 BAR whereas the working example was showing a MAF reading well over 1000 and a shade over 2 BAR.
-
So, that to me says that the MAF is ok...I wonder if the MAP sensor is over reading and the turbo is being knocked back.
I suspect the mechanics may well be working as expected given that the lack of apparant physical boost from the turbo is contradicted by a manifold pressure reading which is correct.
It would be interesting to see a pressure gauge put on the manifold to allow the ECU MAP reading to be compared with a real manifold pressure reading.
If the MAP is correct then the next thing to consider is what could seriously reduce the air consumption of the engine.....or is there a shed load of air getting into the inlet between the MAF and turbo (cant be post turbo or boost pressure would be lost). This would result in the MAF reading backing fueling off.
-
Was thinking EGR stuck open but, that would affect the boost pressure I suspect (or maybe not!)
-
The EGR and turbo vane actuators were checked manually as described in TIS procedure.
MAF readings at idle with EGR open and closed were about what TIS indicates, as were the boost pressure readings under the conditions described in TIS (IIRC, hold the engine at 3000 RPM and check indicated boost pressure builds when you apply vacuum to the actuator). Electrical vacuum valves were working fine too.
The intake hoses on both sides of the intercooler swelled and the turbo could be heard to spool up, and there was a change in engine note when operating the vane actuator. Intake hoses couldn't be squashed by hand at this point, so boost pressure was there to some extent although it would indeed have been nice to have measured that with a gauge as well.
I think the fact that the readings follow what TIS indicates gives me some confidence that the MAP and MAF inputs are OK and that the EGR is working, under those test conditions, at any rate. The rubber hose between the MAF and the turbo inlet was checked and found to be sound.
EGR might be popping open under boost, of course. Maybe that's causing the low MAF reading, but not bleeding off enough boost to make the pressure look obviously low? :-\
-
Then again, I guess the EGR opening uncommanded is going to do one of two things: bleed boost into the exhaust and increase the MAF reading, or introduce exhaust gas into the intake, reduce MAF, reduce O2 into the engine and boost will probably be about the same? Depends on relative pressure between exhaust system and intake.
Given that it's well down on power, boost is normal-ish, MAF is down and it's diluting the oil maybe the second of the above is most plausible?
-
When EGR sticks open you generaly get the turbo spool down as the exhaust gas speed drops (gases passing into inlet) and the MAF value then drops (so fueling follows it)
-
Ahh, OK. No sign of that whatsoever. Boost was there reliably and from lowish RPM - according to the MAP sensor, at any rate.
-
OK, some graphs of the engine parameters under full load, I've picked a point passing through around 2500 RPM on full throttle.
Good engine : https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26795734/Omega/DTIGraphGood.bmp (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26795734/Omega/DTIGraphGood.bmp)
Bad Engine: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26795734/Omega/DTIGraphBad.bmp (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/26795734/Omega/DTIGraphBad.bmp)
So, actually, there is considerably more boost on the good engine (well above the "boost pressure command" value!), which I hadn't initially spotted on the live data. MAF and fuel delivery are up in proportion with this increase in boost - so maybe it's simply down to a lack of boost.
-
... and I suppose I should have plotted the vane actuator signal on that graph, to see if it's the ECU holding back the boost pressure or something else. ::)
-
Ok, now this is all going right over my head!
If I knew where the map sensor was I'd remove it and give it a clean :-\
-
Weather wasn't too bad here today so i stripped down the intake and de-coked it all and with the help from a parts washer it all looked new again in no time at all, tbh it wasn't all that bad & wouldn't have been causing any problems... But its another thing ticked off the 'possible issue list'
-
Hmm. Had another look at the data logs and the ECU certainly isn't holding back the boost via the actuator.
I think it's not making the boost for some reason. Coming back to thinking it's the EGR leaking or a problem with the turbo itself, assuming the exhaust hasn't blocked. :-\
-
Hmm. Had another look at the data logs and the ECU certainly isn't holding back the boost via the actuator.
I think it's not making the boost for some reason. Coming back to thinking it's the EGR leaking or a problem with the turbo itself, assuming the exhaust hasn't blocked. :-\
Only thing I haven't replaced as yet is the EGR valve, but the exhaust is a complete new system as it was needed for the MOT and the DPF/Cat has been cut open and the honeycomb removed as the initial thought was that had collapsed.
-
That was an interesting drive home from work...
Left the yard expecting the EML light to come on as per usual as the temperature is pretty cold out and it always comes on after about five minutes into the journey... As expected on it came so while I was on a dead quiet road I just flipped the ignition key back turning the engine off and waitted a couple of seconds then turn on again waiting for the idiot lights to come on then drop the clutch bump starting the car back into life.
EML light extinguished and was already in third gear and the car was feeling quite lively so I accelerated and I could feel the car coming on boost, there was slight hesitation and then BANG lots of black smoke and the EML light was on again! Managed to limp it to the next petrol station where I popped the bonnet to have a look expecting the worst...
The top boost hose from the intercooler to the inlet had popped off of the intercooler!! Managed to get it back on again as I didn't have any tools on me but then two minutes from home going up a hill it popped off again... So I just limped it home at 10mph and I'll sort it out when I get up in the morning.
I have noticed that on hard revving when the car is stood still that particular boost hose does swell up quite a lot! In fact more than I'd expected it to... Could it be that the EGR valve is not opening and not allowing the boost through thus making the pipes swell as it does?
-
On the diesel, those pipes do swell a lot!
-
Joff was kind enough to send me his working EGR valve from his 2.2 today, fitted it with that butterfly feeling in my stomach that it 'might' actually fix the problem......
Nope.
Back to the drawing board ::) :'( >:(
-
The chap on the parts counter at my local WJ Kings Vx dealer has recommended a local garage where 2 ex-Vx technicians have set-up their own business, they both worked at Vx during the lifetime of the Omega and have the 'possible' knowledge I've been looking for to try and overcome this bloody issue!!
Watch this space for either good OR bad news! (Prob the latter lol)
-
It's an Omega... what's the worst that could happen... ::) fingers crossed though, must be doing your bonce in :-\
-
Does the 2.2DTi have a mechanical wastegate or is it controlled by the ECU?
Have you cleaned out the intercooler and all the hoses? I'm wondering whether a little pipe to either the wastegate or the MAP (manifold pressure sensor) is blocked causing the ECU to think there is no turbo boost when there is actually enough to blow the inlet hose off :-\
-
1. Does the 2.2DTi have a mechanical wastegate or is it controlled by the ECU?
2. Have you cleaned out the intercooler and all the hoses? I'm wondering whether a little pipe to either the wastegate or the MAP (manifold pressure sensor) is blocked causing the ECU to think there is no turbo boost when there is actually enough to blow the inlet hose off :-\
1. That i couldn't tell you i'm afraid :-\
2. Intercooler is fairly new, but no i haven't. All the vacuum pipes are new - as replaced by me not so long ago.
-
Does the 2.2DTi have a mechanical wastegate or is it controlled by the ECU?
Have you cleaned out the intercooler and all the hoses? I'm wondering whether a little pipe to either the wastegate or the MAP (manifold pressure sensor) is blocked causing the ECU to think there is no turbo boost when there is actually enough to blow the inlet hose off :-\
No waste gate, its a Garret GT1849V which is an early variable vane variant
-
Does the 2.2DTi have a mechanical wastegate or is it controlled by the ECU?
Have you cleaned out the intercooler and all the hoses? I'm wondering whether a little pipe to either the wastegate or the MAP (manifold pressure sensor) is blocked causing the ECU to think there is no turbo boost when there is actually enough to blow the inlet hose off :-\
No waste gate, its a Garret GT1849V which is an early variable vane variant
OK.
Is that turbo prone to seized vanes?
Do you know if the vanes are controlled by the ECU? or directly by manifold pressure?
I still think it is worth checking that the ECU is measuring the correct manifold pressure. (and if it is reading right that it isn't getting a delayed reading due to a partial blockage or crap in the sensor)
-
Vane actuator is vacuum operated based on an electrical signal from the ECU.
Manifold pressure is reading atmospheric pressure as expected and manually operating the vanes with the engine held at 3,000 RPM gives the correct response at the manifold pressure sensor as expected in the TIS diagnostic procedure.
The whole vacuum system has been tested and found to be working OK.
That said, from the live data I posted earlier in this thread, boost is down on a "working" example of this engine, but the ECU doesn't appear to be modulating the vane actuator to limit boost. Possibly, the actuator is only moving over part of its' travel (although it felt free enough) or another fault is preventing the boost building further.
-
Vane actuator is vacuum operated based on an electrical signal from the ECU.
Manifold pressure is reading atmospheric pressure as expected and manually operating the vanes with the engine held at 3,000 RPM gives the correct response at the manifold pressure sensor as expected in the TIS diagnostic procedure.
The whole vacuum system has been tested and found to be working OK.
That said, from the live data I posted earlier in this thread, boost is down on a "working" example of this engine, but the ECU doesn't appear to be modulating the vane actuator to limit boost. Possibly, the actuator is only moving over part of its' travel (although it felt free enough) or another fault is preventing the boost building further.
I still think the turbo is the problem,saw similar on an A4 Pd a few years back,supposedly new(reman) turbo but similar symptoms to this one,a new turbo fixed it
-
Vane actuator is vacuum operated based on an electrical signal from the ECU.
Manifold pressure is reading atmospheric pressure as expected and manually operating the vanes with the engine held at 3,000 RPM gives the correct response at the manifold pressure sensor as expected in the TIS diagnostic procedure.
The whole vacuum system has been tested and found to be working OK.
That said, from the live data I posted earlier in this thread, boost is down on a "working" example of this engine, but the ECU doesn't appear to be modulating the vane actuator to limit boost. Possibly, the actuator is only moving over part of its' travel (although it felt free enough) or another fault is preventing the boost building further.
I still think the turbo is the problem,saw similar on an A4 Pd a few years back,supposedly new(reman) turbo but similar symptoms to this one,a new turbo fixed it
As already said Henry, the Turbo is a new/recon unit.
-
Vane actuator is vacuum operated based on an electrical signal from the ECU.
Manifold pressure is reading atmospheric pressure as expected and manually operating the vanes with the engine held at 3,000 RPM gives the correct response at the manifold pressure sensor as expected in the TIS diagnostic procedure.
The whole vacuum system has been tested and found to be working OK.
That said, from the live data I posted earlier in this thread, boost is down on a "working" example of this engine, but the ECU doesn't appear to be modulating the vane actuator to limit boost. Possibly, the actuator is only moving over part of its' travel (although it felt free enough) or another fault is preventing the boost building further.
I still think the turbo is the problem,saw similar on an A4 Pd a few years back,supposedly new(reman) turbo but similar symptoms to this one,a new turbo fixed it
As already said Henry, the Turbo is a new/recon unit.
As was the one on the A4,shame no-one has one that you could try :-\
-
i got one , don't forget :y
-
i got one , don't forget :y
See what this Vx garage says chap and I'll go from there?
-
**UPDATE**
Popped upto the garage where the 2 ex-Vx technicians work and after a weeks diagnoses the results are in!!
It would appear that although most things seem to be working as they should, the vacuum isn't getting from the turbo actuator vacuum solenoid to the turbo actuator itself which would indicate a wiring issue or the ECU. I'm going to get the ECU tested i think and then maybe look at the wiring loom in the engine bay as it was pointed out to me that there is a fair amount of rat droppings in various places.
Is the engine bay loom separate like it is in Cavaliers, Novas etc...? One big multi-plug and it all disconnects?
The possible loom issues confirms some other issues i have been having with the head up display saying that the O/S Headlamp has a bulb gone, the coolant level sensor and the brake pad sensor - All have been replaced and are working fine.
Thoughts....?