Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: husky12 on 02 November 2013, 17:04:06
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i have a 2.5 v6 and the timing belt snapped and wrecked the engine. i got a 2.6 bare engine and changed every thing from my 2.5 on to it and fitted it. its messing about going then stopping again and was wondering should i use the 2.5 sensor because the brain is 2.5 or the 2.6 sensor because of the engine? cheers
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Don't know the answer but have a 2.6 ecu and chip/ key set for sale if needed
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2.6 sensor assuming same number of wires :y might need a tail of loom to connect it as the plug might not fit :-\
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If the 2.6 was undressed and you redressed it with all of the 2.5 sensors,it should run. Only problem would be the Sai system as a 2.6 dosnt have a egr/sai system.
so i would thing your crank sensor on the way out..
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just keeps putting up hall sensor high voltage? any thoughts
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Crank sensor,knackard
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"Hall Sensor" is the camshaft sensor, not the crank sensor, if memory serves, although neither is actually a Hall sensor. ::)
Can you get the numeric code from the code reader, as I suspect it's just giving you a generic description?
Crank sensor is P0335. Cam sensor is P0340. :y
You can just do the pedal trick to verify this.
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Could be a compatibility issue... Car built as a 2.5 which went bang. Engine replaced with a 2.6 lump running 2.5 sensors and management. Pedal trick won't work, paper clip might :-\
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Yes, of course, it'll be the old management so paper clip test.
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paperclip test?
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paperclip test?
Read all about it here Paperclip test & pedal trick (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90581.0)
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You should use the sensors that match the ECU you are using.
Crank sensor wiring runs close to the exhaust manifold and goes brittle in use. It is quite likely that yours has failed as a result of being disturbed.
A faulty crank sensor doesn't always bring up a code. Both the failures I have had gave no codes >:(
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i am using the 2.6 crank sensor and is starting and idling fine now. the 3 earths at back of engine had came lose somehow.now its starting but wen you accelerate its missing an choking like mad, and takes a wile to build revs. if you slowly accelerate its dosnt seem to be ass chokey but still misses, im gonna read the codes tomorrow but any ideas?
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sounds like a idle valve or throttle position sensor
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sounds like a idle valve or throttle position sensor
No ICV on a dbw engine ;)
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dbw engine? lol ???
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Drive by wire. :y
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sounds like a idle valve or throttle position sensor
No ICV on a dbw engine ;)
It is no longer a DBW engine ::) as per first post, 2.6 block/heads running 2.5 ancilliaries/management...
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sounds like a idle valve or throttle position sensor
No ICV on a dbw engine ;)
It is no longer a DBW engine ::) as per first post, 2.6 block/heads running 2.5 ancilliaries/management...
Whoops :)
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looked up codes on op com a china copy. it puts up the code 61 fuel tank vantalation valve voltage low.
wen i looked it up on the launch it reads 61 EVAP canister purge - present valve voltage low
same thing? and would it be lift pump in fuel tank?
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looked up codes on op com a china copy. it puts up the code 61 fuel tank vantalation valve voltage low.
wen i looked it up on the launch it reads 61 EVAP canister purge - present valve voltage low
same thing? and would it be lift pump in fuel tank?
Same thing.
Hidden above the front wheel arch liner, on the (UK) drivers side, is a carbon canister. The fuel tank ventilation pipe runs to this cannister and the carbon absorbs fumes from the fuel tank when the car is stationary.
When the engine is running (and up to temperature) the purge valve opens and allows a bleed of air to be sucked from the cannister into the inlet manifold. The carbon gives up the fuel fumes, which get burnt in the engine, and leaves the carbon ready to absorb more fumes.
Your code is probably due to forgetting to plug the solenoid valve in.
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Purge valve lives on the back of the 135 head next to the breather box :y
Middle sized pipe from plenum goes to it. The other two(three) got to the breather box :y
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Ok got the carbon canister sorted. The plug wasn't pushed it full, now changed the spark plugs and leads and it made the missing go away but still a bit chokey, wen put the foot Dow u can feel it dead the for split seconds you can feel it getting full power? Fuel problem?
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Ok got the carbon canister sorted. The plug wasn't pushed it full, now changed the spark plugs and leads and it made the missing go away but still a bit chokey, wen put the foot Dow u can feel it dead the for split seconds you can feel it getting full power? Fuel problem?
as your engine is 100cc larger-wonder if fuelling needs sorting? as ecu thinks its a 2.5?
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Should sort itself out :-\ but might be worth trying the fuel rail, including injectors from either the 2.6 or a 3.0...
Multirams working as expected? :-\
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To make it work correctly, you should only be using the bare engine of the 2.6, the sensors, actuators, loom and ecu need to be from the original 2.5.
ECU will work fine with the extra 100cc :y
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Ok got the carbon canister sorted. The plug wasn't pushed it full, now changed the spark plugs and leads and it made the missing go away but still a bit chokey, wen put the foot Dow u can feel it dead the for split seconds you can feel it getting full power? Fuel problem?
Did the throttle body, loom and ECU all come from the same donor? I've seen throttle position sensors wired up differently between different non-DBW setups. That would certainly cause it to hesitate.