Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Big_Al on 05 January 2014, 11:32:58
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hi guys
right this Neffin' omega is getting right up my nose now >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
This is a new thread carrying on from what was breakdown diagnosis
Oofers general opinion was crank sensor as was getting 0335 sometimes after car was cutting out.
Car cut out last week outside house so ordred new genuine bosch CS.
Yesterday wanted to get car up on ramps & it started 1st time but then cut out before I could get it on the ramps :(
Started raining really heavy so left it until this morning ::)
This morning it would not start so just jacked up N/S replaced C/S & rerouted cable as shown :y
Would not start with the new CS fitted >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
Ok so thought I would do pedal trick but this would not work . . . TC light was staying on which normally goes off on a pedal trick
code read & the spanner light would not flash at all just lit up all the time .
Tried several times but no good >:( >:( >:(
I was thinking that maybe it is an ECU problem like Toledodude Paul had last year ,as TC light came on before a recent breakdown .
So opened up ECU box & checked all connectors .They seemed all ok but released & re fitted to make sure .
Tried starting . . . .Hey presto . . .Magic on the button it starts . Have started it 20 times now & gone for a short drive
All OK. Pedal trick will now work showing 2 codes ,will have to re check the first one but second is 0335
Will now clear codes & see what happens .
Would you think it seems logical that a dodgy ECU connection will cause this problem I have had and not the CS after all .
CS was previously changed 35k ago
Any thoughts & advice on this . . before the car gets chucked ::) ::) ::)
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The sensor just originates the pulses. They've still got to get to the ECU.
CS is such a common problem with these (mine was temperature sensitive) that everyone immediately points there. There's no reason why you shouldn't be the first to have a connection problem elsewhere. The error-detection will not be able to tell the difference - just that pulses are missing.
Only time (and your patience if you have any left) ;D will prove your point.
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The sensor just originates the pulses. They've still got to get to the ECU.
CS is such a common problem with these (mine was temperature sensitive) that everyone immediately points there. There's no reason why you shouldn't be the first to have a connection problem elsewhere. The error-detection will not be able to tell the difference - just that pulses are missing.
Only time (and your patience if you have any left) ;D will prove your point.
Have been out & reconnected the old crank sensor . . .. car starts first time . . . tried for several starts . . all good
replaced again with new one & all still good . . car starts A1
Cleared codes this morning after getting car running with new sensor fitted . Pedal trick is now working & no codes showing
Only time will tell if it was a loose ECU connection i suppose. The fact that the pedal trick only won't work when the car will
not start, points to the ECU I would say . As soon as car is running & starting ok ,pedal trick will work :-\ :-\
Has anyone ever had the "pedal trick" fail to work & not give the code flashes with the spanner light, like this did when car does not
want to start . Just to confirm what has been occuring , car just cuts out & will then turn over as normal but will not fire . leave
for a while usually 30 mins or more & it will start.
Very frustrating this problem. :'( :'( . . . . . been looking at Volkwagen Phaetons . . as getting fed up with this now :-* :-*
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Is your car new enough to give freeze frame data? If you looked at it with a scan tool there maybe more useful info to be had.
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Is your car new enough to give freeze frame data? If you looked at it with a scan tool there maybe more useful info to be had.
'51 plate 2.6 MV6 . . . .but clueless with all that stuff . . . . I'm 57 for gods sake . . PC IT hopeless at it :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[
Can put fuel in & change oil though ;D ;D ;D ;D :y :y :y :y
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It will be then. When a fault code is set a snap shot of parameters at that point is taken. It includes rpm at that point. If you're getting crank sensor faults logged the rpm at which the fault occured may help you out.
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As requested you have pm Al :y
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Only time I've had the pedal trick fail is when I left the drive by wire plug off the throttle body on the plenum, Dbw needs to function to see the accelerator pedal position obviously.
Ecu needs to see the cs signal. Cs is most common failure so you have no choice but to start there. Any pins corroded on the loom plug or ecu pins?
Fingers crossed you've sorted it anyway. :)
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It will be then. When a fault code is set a snap shot of parameters at that point is taken. It includes rpm at that point. If you're getting crank sensor faults logged the rpm at which the fault occured may help you out.
Ok thanks ;). . . but will have to leave that to someone who understands how to do it etc. :-[ :-[
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Only time I've had the pedal trick fail is when I left the drive by wire plug off the throttle body on the plenum, Dbw needs to function to see the accelerator pedal position obviously.
Ecu needs to see the cs signal. Cs is most common failure so you have no choice but to start there. Any pins corroded on the loom plug or ecu pins?
Fingers crossed you've sorted it anyway. :)
Car is running fine again at the moment , new CS is fitted, although test run with old one re installed, was good, but will check all ECU pins & all loom connections .
It is looking like an "intermittant" wiring connection breakdown now though :-\
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Only time I've had the pedal trick fail is when I left the drive by wire plug off the throttle body on the plenum, Dbw needs to function to see the accelerator pedal position obviously.
Ecu needs to see the cs signal. Cs is most common failure so you have no choice but to start there. Any pins corroded on the loom plug or ecu pins?
Fingers crossed you've sorted it anyway. :)
Car is running fine again at the moment , new CS is fitted, although test run with old one re installed, was good, but will check all ECU pins & all loom connections .
It is looking like an "intermittant" wiring connection breakdown now though :-\
40 mile trip today & all running luvverly. . . .used electrical cleaner spray on engine ECU pins & main loom connections under
battery before I went . . . . never missed a beat & no "spooky" radio turning itself on etc. All good so fingers crossed ::) ::)
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Maybe some water got somewhere nasty giving you problems, there has been a lot about Al :)
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Maybe some water got somewhere nasty giving you problems, there has been a lot about Al :)
quite possible Paul . . . . as said running good again now ;) ;)
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These ageing omegas do test the patience! ;D
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I had some very odd probs with running then not, not starting then it would after half an hour with a MG Montego EFI. Turned out to be alternator on that
keith B
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I had some very odd probs with running then not, not starting then it would after half an hour with a MG Montego EFI. Turned out to be alternator on that
keith B
i'm sticking with fault on crank sensor & ECU /main loom connections at the moment Keith
Seems cured now . . . fingers crossed :P :P :P :P
As said above car is now running better than it ever has . Seems to pull much much better :-\ :-\ :-\
but will bear your suggestion in mind if we get a relapse :( :(
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Car is running fine again at the moment , new CS is fitted, although test run with old one re installed, was good, but will check all ECU pins & all loom connections .
It is looking like an "intermittant" wiring connection breakdown now though :-\
40 mile trip today & all running luvverly. . . .used electrical cleaner spray on engine ECU pins & main loom connections under
battery before I went . . . . never missed a beat & no "spooky" radio turning itself on etc. All good so fingers crossed ::) ::)
Nice one Al :y