Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: omega2018 on 21 January 2014, 01:18:08
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hi my alternator packed up at the weekend it looks very like the 140a one not the bosch 120a. defo not like the one in the guide here.
i cant see a part number but bosch is printed on the black plastic back (regulator?)
am i going to have to get another 140a to fit or will any others fit? 140s seem to be hard to find. anyone know the bosch part number for the 140?
no bearing noise so i guess the regulator is gone, is the reg standard and is it possible to fit a new regulator with removing the alternator?
its a 2001 elite V2.6 full face lift
thanks
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You can pick up pattern regulators for those for around £30.
Mine came from here:
http://www.rotatingelectrics.co.uk/ (http://www.rotatingelectrics.co.uk/)
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Mine's gone too and I've chickened out of rebuilding mine so have bought a reconditioned one from ebay for £70. ::)
Here's another company I found for alternator parts. :)
http://www.jcrsupplies.co.uk/products/ALTERNATOR_REBUILD_PARTS
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I'll have a 140 amp alternator if you want one
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just took the sump guard off and managed to read the back of the old one - it is a 120a xa. this is as vauxhall say it should be for my car but the alternator looks like the 140a xj not the 120a xa in their catalogue, very odd. the xa diagram shows the mounting holes 180 degrees apart at opposite ends of the body, mine has holes much closer 120 degree approx
part number i read is 091 0 124 515 049
decision now is
1 buy scrap one £30 and take the chance it will last
2 buy a refurb regulator £20 and hope that was the problem
3 buy a new pattern alternator or remanufactured £50-£60
4 buy a new bosch one £480!
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all of the V6 alternators have the same mounting lugs
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Yep, mountings on the V6 are all the same.
Regulator repair is dead easy on them, bearing change a little more involved.
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are the connectors the same on all V6 alternators though?
if i go down the recon myself route, do i need to change the diode as well as the reg and bearings?
thanks
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are the connectors the same on all V6 alternators though?
if i go down the recon myself route, do i need to change the diode as well as the reg and bearings?
thanks
I'd put money on it being just the regulator that's faulty. Bearings you will probably get away with but if you've got an hour or two to spare to strip it down and swap them it might be worth doing. See how they feel when you get the alternator off.
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are the connectors the same on all V6 alternators though?
if i go down the recon myself route, do i need to change the diode as well as the reg and bearings?
thanks
I'd put money on it being just the regulator that's faulty. Bearings you will probably get away with but if you've got an hour or two to spare to strip it down and swap them it might be worth doing. See how they feel when you get the alternator off.
'orrible job! :(
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Dead easy to get off, 45 mins to change one :y
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Dead easy to get off, 45 mins to change one :y
With practice ::) bleddy show off ;) ;D
Took me a lot longer than that. :(
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Dead easy to get off, 45 mins to change one :y
Smartarse!! ::) See my tale of woe in Car Chat. :(
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The key is being able to feel your way to the nuts at the back of the alternator, 'cos you can't see anything. A background in gynaecology might be an advantage, it has to be said. ;D
I've certainly done worse jobs.
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alternator is out now wasn't as difficult as I expected. in fact getting the bag pipes out was the worst bit. i had already taken the rad bottom cover off but that was not needed i could get a small drive and 11mm socket round the back ok from above. had to put a crowbar on the alt to move it mind.
the two long bolts were in opposite ways torx end at back on top bolt and at front on bottom one is that normal? no spring washers either.
now its out it the bearing seem fine no play i can feel. im tempted to skip bearing replacement and just replace the reg. are they any other things to replace eg diodes?
im new how long do i have to keep filling in this verification code for? its annoying.
Type the letters shown in the picture:
How many road wheels are fitted to the car (digit, not spelled out)?:
What colour is the indicator on European cars, also a fruit?:
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thanks to the helpful jcrsupplies.co.uk i now know that there are 3 things that could need replacing in my alternator
bearings (2 off)
regulator
rectifier
the rectifier is the large black plastic and ally thing on the back that the reg attaches to. it is expensive £38? and seems to just be some potted diodes i assume I can test it simply with a diode check. i also assume it very rarely fails? im still tempted to only replace the reg.
Type the letters shown in the picture:
What do the letters OOF (our forums initials) stand for? See image at top left of page.:
How many road wheels are fitted to the car (digit, not spelled out)?:
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regulator from M.U.R.E arrived yesterday so today i fitted it and re-fitted the alternator, all fine now. it is quite easy to test the rectifier and regulator with a multimeter, could even be done while the alt is in place.
changed the aux belt too there is no way a gates 6PK2020 belt fits my car. fitted a 6PK2030 instead and that was very tight had to slide it on with a cutlery knife and the belt tensioner is still almost on max.
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As already mentioned, the rectifiers never fail on these......and get the beraings elsewhere for known quality at a simialr or lower price (e.g. simplybearings)
.....as for the belt length, are you absolutely confident that the alternator is fitted correctly with the bolt through both block mounts. Last time I saw the 'correct' belt not fit was after somebody had replaced the alternator and the top bolt was only resting against the top mount and resulting in a longer belt run.
When re-fitting these alternators, its useful to tap the sliding shim in the alternator mount outwards so its loose on the block mount, tightening the bolt will then 're-adjust' the shim to the correct size.
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yes you are right and the alternator top bolt is not through the engine, thanks. i did realise this after searching the forum. it might be worth adding that 'gotcha' to the alternator change article especially your shim tip as the alternator is a tight fit - crowbar required to remove it.
now i have to do it again luckily the bagpipes are not fixed in yet.
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Maintenance guide edited, thanks!
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alternator is out now wasn't as difficult as I expected. in fact getting the bag pipes out was the worst bit. i had already taken the rad bottom cover off but that was not needed i could get a small drive and 11mm socket round the back ok from above. had to put a crowbar on the alt to move it mind.
the two long bolts were in opposite ways torx end at back on top bolt and at front on bottom one is that normal? no spring washers either.
now its out it the bearing seem fine no play i can feel. im tempted to skip bearing replacement and just replace the reg. are they any other things to replace eg diodes?
im new how long do i have to keep filling in this verification code for? its annoying.
Type the letters shown in the picture:
How many road wheels are fitted to the car (digit, not spelled out)?:
What colour is the indicator on European cars, also a fruit?:
Same on our 2.6V6 Estate - spring washers not needed - the nuts on ours were deliberately "slightly" out of round to prevent accidental loosening - think they're referred to distorted thread locknuts ;)