Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Kate on 22 January 2014, 10:31:13
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Hi all.
My speedometer isn't working. Are there any guides about this issue that I could have a look at? Or does any know how to fix it?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. :y :-* :-* :-*
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Are there any warning lights on?
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Are there any warning lights on?
No, there's no warning lights on.
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And ABS light comes on at start up and then goes off and stays off?
Any wierdness with steering going really heavy from time to time?
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And ABS light comes on at start up and then goes off and stays off?
Any wierdness with steering going really heavy from time to time?
Yes I think that ABS light comes on then goes off and stays off.
Never noticed any steering problems yet but I'll check again today.
Thanks for helping me. :y
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Speed sensor or the gauge fubar'd. I'd look at speed sensor first.
Is it auto? If so is it shifting ''oddly''?
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I was only thinking it might be the dreaded ABS ECU failure.
My guess is it isn't. That is good news.
You would know if the steering had gone heavy at any stage.
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Easiest place start would be to pull the Clocks Housing out. re fit making sure the Main Centre Connector is home properly.
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Easiest place start would be to pull the Clocks Housing out. re fit making sure the Main Centre Connector is home properly.
What he said :y
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Been out in it today. The ABS light never came on at all and neither did the TC light.
Does that make any difference?
Steering and gearbox are perfect.
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Yes it's an auto.
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Been out in it today. The ABS light never came on at all and neither did the TC light.
Does that make any difference?
Steering and gearbox are perfect.
Someone might have whipped the bulbs out to hide the fact the abs ecu is duff ::)
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So how do I fix it?
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First thing is to establish that neither the ABS nor TC lights illuminate when the key is turned to position 2.
If they don't, then pop the cluster out to confirm whether the bulbs are there or not.
If not, what you do next depends on a couple of things, where you bought the car from and how much you paid for it...
Did you test drive the car, and was the speedo working then?
Lots of questions, I know, but the answers will help find the right solution :y
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First thing is to establish that neither the ABS nor TC lights illuminate when the key is turned to position 2.
If they don't, then pop the cluster out to confirm whether the bulbs are there or not.
If not, what you do next depends on a couple of things, where you bought the car from and how much you paid for it...
Did you test drive the car, and was the speedo working then?
Lots of questions, I know, but the answers will help find the right solution :y
Thanks Al.
No the ABS an TC lights never light up at any time. Is it difficult to take the cluster out?
I bought the car cheap, knowing that it needed work. I only did a short test drive so didn't notice if the speedo was working or not.
It was a private sale.
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There is a guide for removing the dash. Its quite easy, certainly easier than it sounds.
Sounds like the bulbs were removed to hide a possible ABS ECU failure, which is relatively common on post 1998 V6 models. Replacing the ECU is "challenging" I'm afraid, not a job I ever want to repeat!
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Kate .. the seller will "probably" say you drove it, it's your problem ... "Caveat emptor" ... which is of little help...
IF the bulbs have been deliberately removed to hide the fault, you "might" have a case under the sale of goods act, best advice would be to talk to your local Trading Standards Office, or you could say the sale was fraudulent ... however, proving this could be very difficult.. all the seller has to say is "it was like that all the time I had it" or words to that effect .....
SO, lets talk about fixing it ... replacing the bulbs is a 30 minute job, easy to do and there's a guide
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90618.0
If that results in the TC and ABS lights being on with no speedo its the ABS ECU that's failed .. a known problem.
You have 2 options .. get yours fixed .. about £130, or get a 2nd hand one, be cheaper BUT it "might" be about to suffer exactly the same fault .. you just don't know. The actual job is pretty simple, but very frustrating, as you are working blind on the screws that hold the ECU to the pump body. I got mine off OK, but the last 2 screws took some getting in .. and lots of cash in the swear box !!
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90627.0
HTH
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As TB says, removing the cluster is easy enough takes ten minutes to remove and refit :y
I take it the ABS ecu wasn't mentioned in the list of bits it needs... did you buy it through here, or a local advert?
Ecu can be sent away for repair for £100 or so, so not the end of the world, but a pita nonetheless :-\
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Thanks for all the advice. :y
The seller was pretty clueless TBH. He was in his 20's with a drink driving conviction and he thought he'd be able to get insurance on a 3 litre Mig. :o :o :o
I'll have a look at the bulb situation first.
Wow I've missed having an Omega. ;D
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Your never bored with an Omega ;D ;D
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Your never bored with an Omega ;D ;D
Very true. ;D
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Hi Kate,
I suspect this is an ABS problem as well, however, if its a cluster problem then I have several available and you are welcome to one for postage cost.
What age Omega, PFL/MFL/FL, there are differences.
Thanks, & good luck
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Your never bored with an Omega ;D ;D
Nope not at all lol. Ive had 6 of them and say to the miss no more migs but just cant live with out it lol. :-)
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Might just be worth checking the ABS fuse, although, if memory serves, the warning light fails safe and lights up if the ECU has no power. :-\
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Hi Kate,
I suspect this is an ABS problem as well, however, if its a cluster problem then I have several available and you are welcome to one for postage cost.
What age Omega, PFL/MFL/FL, there are differences.
Thanks, & good luck
Thanks Rob that's so kind of you. :y :-* :-* :-*
I noticed a connector that wasn't connected in the engine bay yesterday. It's on the drivers side near the windscreen.
Could that have anything to do with it?
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Hi Kate,
I suspect this is an ABS problem as well, however, if its a cluster problem then I have several available and you are welcome to one for postage cost.
What age Omega, PFL/MFL/FL, there are differences.
Thanks, & good luck
Thanks Rob that's so kind of you. :y :-* :-* :-*
I noticed a connector that wasn't connected in the engine bay yesterday. It's on the drivers side near the windscreen.
Could that have anything to do with it?
Where exactly is it? If it's hanging down off the top of the suspension turret then it could be the cruise control connector - but it being an Elite it should have cruise which is connected .....
How many wires & can you take a picture maybe?
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Yes, I'll take a picture today.
Thanks for helping. :y
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Car is 2000 Elite Estate. I'll put a picture of it on here soon.
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This is the connector.
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo200/maisyhoneybunny/230114-1506_zps73c73580.jpg) (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/maisyhoneybunny/media/230114-1506_zps73c73580.jpg.html)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo200/maisyhoneybunny/230114-1507_zpscd2d3d29.jpg) (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/maisyhoneybunny/media/230114-1507_zpscd2d3d29.jpg.html)
And the car.
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo200/maisyhoneybunny/230114-1508_zps9895ad99.jpg) (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/maisyhoneybunny/media/230114-1508_zps9895ad99.jpg.html)
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More pics.
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo200/maisyhoneybunny/230114-1509003_zpsa2d1ac2a.jpg) (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/maisyhoneybunny/media/230114-1509003_zpsa2d1ac2a.jpg.html)
(http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo200/maisyhoneybunny/230114-1509_zpsaeb72652.jpg) (http://s375.photobucket.com/user/maisyhoneybunny/media/230114-1509_zpsaeb72652.jpg.html)
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Is there any wires going to the brakefluid cap,if not it could be from there...
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Some of the facelift cars seem to have wiring for two bonnet alarm switches. They eventually moved the switch to the driver's side but left the original wiring on the passenger side. The spare plug seems to pre-date a driver's side switch but the wiring was there ready.
that's my guess ;)
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It's not the brake fluid connector as that's already attached but you can't see it in the picture.
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What Andy said or power sounder has been removed and plug left dangling :-\
Looks nice btw :y
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What Andy said or power sounder has been removed and plug left dangling :-\
Looks nice btw :y
Thanks.
Is a working speedo an MOT requirement?
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What Andy said or power sounder has been removed and plug left dangling :-\
Looks nice btw :y
Thanks.
Is a working speedo an MOT requirement?
I have absolutely no actual knowledge ... so, using t'internet link to the test manual ..
there appears to be no actual check of its operation in the Test itself ... so my guess is it is not .... it has to be there, the glass must not be cracked, and its illumination must work .... but no actual check of it working !!
http://www.ukmot.com/mot%20manual/index.asp?MOT=Speedometer&MOT_Number=6.7&MOT_Section=Body
:-\ :-\
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Thanks for that.
I suppose it depends on how much attention the inspector pays if he moves the car.
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He will probably notice when he's testing the brakes
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Further research ... the AA website
http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/car-servicing-repair/mot-changes-2012.html
says
"Speedometer
The car will fail if a speedometer is not fitted, is incomplete, inoperative, has a dial glass broken/missing or cannot be illuminated."
so implies that it is checked .. but I can't find it in the schedule ... :(
EDIT
although I now have something relevant
http://www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm
Hit "Inspection Manual for Classes 3, 4, 5 and 7 Vehicles" - Browse
then contents, then next page, then Section 6, then section 6.7 Speedometer
3rd column
"2. Speedometer incomplete, clearly inoperative or the dial glass broken or missing."
so if the Inspector sees it is "clearly inoperative" ?? then he can fail it.
I guess if it doesn't move as he drives it onto the test patch, or during the brake checks .. it's "clearly inoperative" ???
:(
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What Andy said or power sounder has been removed and plug left dangling :-\
Looks nice btw :y
Thanks.
Is a working speedo an MOT requirement?
It didn't used to be ...... but I believe it is now
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Still try to figure out this problem.
The ABS TC never light up so it is possible that the bulbs have been removed.
Is that right?
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Still try to figure out this problem.
The ABS TC never light up so it is possible that the bulbs have been removed.
Is that right?
Yup .. they should light up for about 3 seconds when you turn the ignition on without staring the engine ... :( and that's what the MOT man will look for as well ...
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Still try to figure out this problem.
The ABS TC never light up so it is possible that the bulbs have been removed.
Is that right?
Yup .. they should light up for about 3 seconds when you turn the ignition on without staring the engine ... :( and that's what the MOT man will look for as well ...
So I need to remove the instrument cluster and check the bulbs?
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Still try to figure out this problem.
The ABS TC never light up so it is possible that the bulbs have been removed.
Is that right?
Yup .. they should light up for about 3 seconds when you turn the ignition on without staring the engine ... :( and that's what the MOT man will look for as well ...
So I need to remove the instrument cluster and check the bulbs?
yup .. there's a couple of guides in the maintenance section ...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90505.0
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90618.0
not sure which is the best .. as I just remove it !!.... :)
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Thanks, that's really helpful. :y
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My guess is that bulbs have been removed - that's by far the easiest thing to do and is often done by Mssrs Bogit & Scarper. I was the victim of a clever bodge when I bought my 2.5 estate. The EML bulb was disconnected from the ECU and reconnected to the ignition light feed. This was to mask the fact there was a sensor fault bringing the EML on. Fooled me for months and only highlighted by DTM plugging a Tech2 in.
Another option would be to cut wiring further down the loom - although less likely as it would require the perp to be able to identify the correct wires and then cut.
Although my spare clusters are all MFL, I can't see GM changing the bulbs between MFL & FL ..
I'll send you a complete set of instrument panel bulbs, PM me your address & I'll get stuck in .....
Be warned though, I suspect that when replaced the bulbs will then be ON - allowing you to home in on the ABS unit as the most likely culprit ........
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My guess is that bulbs have been removed - that's by far the easiest thing to do and is often done by Mssrs Bogit & Scarper. I was the victim of a clever bodge when I bought my 2.5 estate. The EML bulb was disconnected from the ECU and reconnected to the ignition light feed. This was to mask the fact there was a sensor fault bringing the EML on. Fooled me for months and only highlighted by DTM plugging a Tech2 in.
Another option would be to cut wiring further down the loom - although less likely as it would require the perp to be able to identify the correct wires and then cut.
Although my spare clusters are all MFL, I can't see GM changing the bulbs between MFL & FL ..
I'll send you a complete set of instrument panel bulbs, PM me your address & I'll get stuck in .....
Be warned though, I suspect that when replaced the bulbs will then be ON - allowing you to home in on the ABS unit as the most likely culprit ........
Thanks so much Rob. :y
I can't believe the lengths these scammers will go to to sell cars. :o
I really like the mig that I bought though. Black migs with black leather look excellent IMO. I know it needs work but it's exactly the car that I wanted.
I'll PM my address.
Thanks again for helping. :y
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Kate every so often my speedo stops working as well, i just give the dash above the speedo a thump with my hand and it starts working again, ::) so i took the clocks out and cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner and all seems to be good again. check that first and whilst out check all the bulbs.
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Kate every so often my speedo stops working as well, i just give the dash above the speedo a thump with my hand and it starts working again, ::) so i took the clocks out and cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner and all seems to be good again. check that first and whilst out check all the bulbs.
Well I hope mine isn't a more complicated problem like the abs ecu. I need a wheel bearing doing and the cambelt so an easy fix on this would be very welcome.
Thanks for the advice! :y
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Well I decided to have a go at removing the cluster today to check the bulbs but it didn't quite go according to plan.
I managed to remove it but I snapped the piece of plastic under the clocks then the screw fell under the driving column plastic. I tried to retrieve it to no avail. Would it be alright to leave?
It turns out that a lot of you were right and the bulbs had been removed. I replaced them and finally put everything back. Well sort of. ;D
Thanks to Lincs Robert for sending me a set of bulbs. :y
The abs and tc light now stay on all the time when driving.
Is it normal for the pixels to go a bit funny on the info screen after this job?
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Were the pixels ok before Kate?
If so then maybe a connector hasn't been properly seated or is a poor connection which needs to be plugged/unplugged a couple of times to make it work?
I've got a number of spare displays here - but are from MFL cars with CCR800 radios, also the smaller displays from CCRT700 - will need an expert opinion as to whether they will work or not. You are welcome to one if the view is that it will help .....
You can remove the shrouding around the column which should allow you to get to the screw - it probably wont do any harm - but may end up somewhere untoward - so best to remove if you can.
TTFN & glad to be of service :y
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Thanks Rob I'll have another look at it tomorrow. :y
With regards to the speedo not working - is there a guide on how to check the ABS sensors on each wheel?
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Thanks Rob I'll have another look at it tomorrow. :y
With regards to the speedo not working - is there a guide on how to check the ABS sensors on each wheel?
It's not working cos the abs ecu is shot
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Thanks Rob I'll have another look at it tomorrow. :y
With regards to the speedo not working - is there a guide on how to check the ABS sensors on each wheel?
It's not working cos the abs ecu is shot
Thanks James. :y
In the guide it says to check the sensors. Do I not need to do that then?
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Thanks Rob I'll have another look at it tomorrow. :y
With regards to the speedo not working - is there a guide on how to check the ABS sensors on each wheel?
It's not working cos the abs ecu is shot
Thanks James. :y
In the guide it says to check the sensors. Do I not need to do that then?
Nothing to be lost but its unlikely to help
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The ABS produces a speed signal based on the average speed of all four wheels. One or even three duff sensors won't stop the speedo from working. A dodgy sensor would put the light on.
If you're really lucky you might find the sensors unplugged or covered in muck, but realistically, light on and no speedo = dead ABS ecu :'(
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Is it possible to buy an ABS ECU or is it best to repair the one that's on the car?
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Is it possible to buy an ABS ECU or is it best to repair the one that's on the car?
Either/or or both :y
Might as well get yours repaired, and if you find a working one in the meantime then great...
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Is it possible to buy an ABS ECU or is it best to repair the one that's on the car?
The one you buy second hand might just be about to fail, as this is a fairly common fault. £130 for a repaired one with a two year warranty is, IMHO, the most economic solution.
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Is it possible to buy an ABS ECU or is it best to repair the one that's on the car?
The one you buy second hand might just be about to fail, as this is a fairly common fault. £130 for a repaired one with a two year warranty is, IMHO, the most economic solution.
I wouldn't be able to remove the old one so that's a big problem.
Can the car run without one installed btw while the part is being repaired?
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Is it possible to buy an ABS ECU or is it best to repair the one that's on the car?
The one you buy second hand might just be about to fail, as this is a fairly common fault. £130 for a repaired one with a two year warranty is, IMHO, the most economic solution.
I wouldn't be able to remove the old one so that's a big problem.
Can the car run without one installed btw while the part is being repaired?
Removal is "only" 6 bolts .. takes about 30 minutes !! - you only remove the ECU from the end of the ABS pump block and unplug it .. :) (refitting takes a while longer and fills the swear box)
As yours is not working and you are happily driving then that will continue ... :) Once you get the new one fitted BE CAREFUL .. you'll suddenly find the power steering now works as well !!! :)
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Is it possible to buy an ABS ECU or is it best to repair the one that's on the car?
The one you buy second hand might just be about to fail, as this is a fairly common fault. £130 for a repaired one with a two year warranty is, IMHO, the most economic solution.
I wouldn't be able to remove the old one so that's a big problem.
Can the car run without one installed btw while the part is being repaired?
Removal is "only" 6 bolts .. takes about 30 minutes !! - you only remove the ECU from the end of the ABS pump block and unplug it .. :) (refitting takes a while longer and fills the swear box)
As yours is not working and you are happily driving then that will continue ... :) Once you get the new one fitted BE CAREFUL .. you'll suddenly find the power steering now works as well !!! :)
The PAS is already working.
Have I been looking at the wrong guide as it sounds complicated?
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90627.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90627.0)
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As there is no ABS input, the servotronic PAS is giving a constant "default" assistance .. not the variable with speed assistance you should be getting :)
as Jimbob says in #3 ..it sounds alot but is easier than you think ..
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90627.0
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Had a look at the connector on the info screen today and it's fine.
The screen must just be dodgy. :-\
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Had a look at the connector on the info screen today and it's fine.
The screen must just be dodgy. :-\
Can you post a picture(s) up of it please Kate - showing as much on the screen as poss - I'll be able to see if mine will do the job.
Its a shame its back in (I assume) as a part number would be useful .........
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Had a look at the connector on the info screen today and it's fine.
The screen must just be dodgy. :-\
Can you post a picture(s) up of it please Kate - showing as much on the screen as poss - I'll be able to see if mine will do the job.
Its a shame its back in (I assume) as a part number would be useful .........
It looks exactly like this one on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2001-4-MODEL-PIXEL-DASH-DISPLAY-PART-NUMBER-24400698-BL-/231141867280?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35d120ff10 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2001-4-MODEL-PIXEL-DASH-DISPLAY-PART-NUMBER-24400698-BL-/231141867280?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35d120ff10)
I can take it out and find the part number if that's more accurate?
Thanks for helping. :y
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The key is the number and colour of any plugs on the back of it :y
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Replacement MID has to have right config... ...tech2 to change config.
You may have blown one of the 3 or 4 bulbs (depending on type), making one part look brighter or dim?
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The key is the number and colour of any plugs on the back of it :y
If computer lines are above radio info line, its single grey connector. These types are uber reliable, and fitted to post 1998 cars.
If computer lines are below radio info line, its the twin black/yellow connector, and suffer lines of pixels failing. Fitted from 1994-1997.
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Replacement MID has to have right config... ...tech2 to change config.
You may have blown one of the 3 or 4 bulbs (depending on type), making one part look brighter or dim?
No I tried changing the bulbs but it had no affect.
Some of the pixels in the centre part of the screen have died so the letters look incomplete.
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Like this but the top and bottom parts are nearly perfect:
(http://www.pixelfix.net/eng/images/opel_b_011.jpg)
The display on mine has the grey connector.
So how would I fix it?
Thanks TB. :y
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I'd replace it Kate. So reliable, the grey connector ones are worthless. Sadly, I lost all my spares in the fire, else I'd post you one.
Config needs to match - press both S and R together for 5s, you should get 3 numbers, post these up.
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I'd replace it Kate. So reliable, the grey connector ones are worthless. Sadly, I lost all my spares in the fire, else I'd post you one.
Config needs to match - press both S and R together for 5s, you should get 3 numbers, post these up.
Thanks. :y
Just been out in the car and the screen has returned to normal!
I always wanted a self repairing car. ;D
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I'd replace it Kate. So reliable, the grey connector ones are worthless. Sadly, I lost all my spares in the fire, else I'd post you one.
Config needs to match - press both S and R together for 5s, you should get 3 numbers, post these up.
Thanks. :y
Just been out in the car and the screen has returned to normal!
I always wanted a self repairing car. ;D
Loose connection somewhere from when you checked the bulbs ??
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Would this part be compatible?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-V6-24V-1998-2-5-ABS-PUMP-MODULATOR-CONTROL-UNIT-/181303200867?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AOmega&hash=item2a36834c63 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-V6-24V-1998-2-5-ABS-PUMP-MODULATOR-CONTROL-UNIT-/181303200867?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AOmega&hash=item2a36834c63)