Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: amba on 17 February 2014, 23:21:11
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Are the regulator packs the same in all V6 alternators as having difficulty explaining to supplier what is required as havent removed old unit yet.
Picture in Marks "repairing an alternator" gives picture of cover removed but just wanted to know if all are the same
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No, they changed at or around the time of the 2.6/3.2 being introduced.
The regulator is very different on the new unit.
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Thanks Kevin. :y
Dont suppose anybody who has replaced a later type regulator pack has a picture or maybe a link to a picture as I assume they are different from that in Marks guide/picture
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Yes, a link to one on Ebay was posted within the last week, if memory serves.
They look similar to this:
(http://www.rotatingelectrics.co.uk/uploads/images/pages/getimage1_20131029145019.jpg)
Google "Mid Ulster Rotating Electrics" for a source at a reasonable price.
I can dig out the part no. etc. tomorrow if required.
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Thanks again Kevin
MURE was the supplier I had been advised by RobG to use although they were unable to advise without part number of availability and cost
Marks detailed repair guide showed a different unit which was the reason for my request of advise
We have an old fashion alternator/starter motor rebuild workshop in town close to me so will see if they can help out
Part number would be great though and assume the wired connectors on the end are eyelet and nut in place of the plug connection on the image you kindly supplied as reference although except it was for illustration only
Thanks again Kevin
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Yep, the image isn't exact. The Omega model has 2 screw stud terminals.
The Bosch reference for the regulator is BR14-T3 F 00M 145 257.
I think this is the MURE replacement I bought:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-12V-ALTERNATOR-REGULATOR-TO-FIT-BOSCH-VAUXHALL-OPEL-GM-139044-/180991771387 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-12V-ALTERNATOR-REGULATOR-TO-FIT-BOSCH-VAUXHALL-OPEL-GM-139044-/180991771387)
Also, if you want to change the bearings, these are what you'll need for the new style alternator:
1 x 6303 2RS C3
1 x 6003 2RS C3
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I've added the above information to the alternator repair maintenance guide. I think I've also got some pictures to add somewhere.
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Cheers Kevin. :y
Thats the part so will get that ordered later today and hopefully get it replaced over weekend,weather permitting. ;D
Bearings sound quite so will leave them alone,just very low charge rate so pointing to regulator.Assume Bosch is the better choice but see they list Cargo as supplier/manufacturer
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Yes, the Cargo part is a pattern part. I've refurbed a couple of alternators with it and, as far as I know, they are not giving any trouble. The Bosch genuine part is more then double that price IIRC.
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All stripped down ,just need to remove both mounting bolts and electrical connecters,but need a little bit more advise please.
Is it easier or even necessary to get at the back of the 2 mounting bolts from under the car,as top bolt is in the reverse to the bottom and whilst I can feel the nut on 1 and the bolt head on the other ,think getting the correct size socket/spanner is going to be a bit hit,n,miss as only by feel.
The 2 electrical connecters are advised as being easier to get at with alternator removed ,would these be accesable with the actual alternator body swung over sligthly.
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I found getting under it didn't help. Unclip the expansion tank and shift it aside, then you can get your arm round the back. IIRC, one of the bolts was easiest with a ratchet and extension, the other with a ring spanner. It's easier than it first looks. Once the alternator is loose, you can remove the wiring from the cable tray that runs round the side of the cam cover the turn the alternator round and remove the wiring.
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Cheers
Can feel both bottom and top bolt heads so will do as suggested with coolant chamber.
Just need to get the right size of socket/spanner then sure all will work.
From the front 1 is a E14 and other is taking a 15mm socket so will assume they are similar on each then go from there.
Looked like alternator body would pivot once undone so hopefully can get at the wired connections.
Another day tomorrow and forecast dry so will crack on as only spent less than 1 hour this afternoon before rain stopped play
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Oh, and disconnect the battery first, of course. Don't mean to teach you to suck eggs, but the battery can deliver a lot of current through that thick cable. :y
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I found this really awkward to get the top bolt undone. Took a combination of over and under for me. :(
But remove the two bolts first, then the alternator can be moved and set down so you can easily access the connectors.
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It can all be done from the top, do the top bolt first, I recall using a cranked ring spanner on the rear fixing (find the right size by offering it upto the bottom front fitting first).
On re-fitting, tap the sliding adjusters in the alternator body outwards slightly so its easier to get onto the mounts.
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Thanks for all the extra "tips" guys.
Just witing for the rain to pass over ;D then will start again.
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I've found a couple of dead V6 alternators if anyone fancies a practice. Yours for the cost of postage
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Old unit removed which wasn't as bad as expected although imagine getting bolts and nuts back in blind could be fun and will probably involve some bad language bit it is dry now
Fitted new regulator pack and had unit tested at little local shop and putting out healthy voltage so hopefully will be up and running later today
Cheers guys for words of wisdom much appreciated
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For re-fit, fit the bottom bolt first and then hinge up to fit the top one.....makes it a lot easier
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Job completed after several "domestic breaks " ;D so recon all in around 3 hours total job which as I have never replaced one before was quite pleased with and actually not half as bad as I had thought.
One hopefully helpfull tip for others in a similar situation. :y
Whilst alternator can be removed without taking off the aux belt tensioner,when refitting the alternator the job is a whole lot easier with it removed and is only 2 extra bolts to undo and makes access and even sight a whole lot easier.On mine the bolt head was an E14 and the nut was a 16mm and quite accessable with 3/8 deep socket on small stubby ratchet from the back bottom nut and top bolt head,and standard ratchet on the front set.
Small electrical terminal on alternator reg pack was 9/32 nut as a perfect fit and larger wire had a 13mm nut for future reference also for anybody doing the job on a 3.2.