Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: vauxsull on 27 February 2014, 17:48:06
-
I need to replace front pads on my V6 but have been told by local motor factors there's two possible types... One has inbuilt anti rattle spring and one type don't... Which is odd if you ask me... Would it matter which type i get as i really can't be bothered taking a wheel off just to check and put it back on again to buy them to take blummin wheel off again to change them... Don't want to come across as lazy but errrrr.
-
Think the ones without have a spring which sits in the outside face of the caliper and is quite obvious...
Tothers with have a spring rivetted to the backing plate :y
-
So can i fit either?
-
There are 2 types, incompatible with each other. One is for pre 1998 2.0l petrol, other is for all other models.
GM Tradeclub ones are about £15+VAT from dealer on Tradeclub, and come recommended, as the other cheap shite you get at factors are, errrrrr, "not very good".
-
Seen both types on ebay made by mintex so assume this brand is ok surely?? £18 delivered.. Seen both types listed but don't know what's fitted to my vehicle.
-
Seen both types on ebay made by mintex so assume this brand is ok surely?? £18 delivered.. Seen both types listed but don't know what's fitted to my vehicle.
Nope, Mintex pads are awful on Omegas. Been there, regretted it. And being ebay, they are probably a cheap clone of something that's crap to start with ;D
Honestly, the only consistently good cheap pad is the TC ones.
-
Aquired a set of EBC Ultimax for development purposes...
If you're on a budget then Apec are as good/bad as any :y If the discs are past their best then fitting any thing too pricey is a waste, might as well fit the TC disc/pad set as they cannot be beaten for value for money :y
-
Aquired a set of EBC Ultimax for development purposes...
If you're on a budget then Apec are as good/bad as any :y If the discs are past their best then fitting any thing too pricey is a waste, might as well fit the TC disc/pad set as they cannot be beaten for value for money :y
I had a brief fling with Apec as well, but just went back to TC, as for the same money, TC pads are so much better.
-
I only mentioned them as OP implied buying from factors, which suggested convenience...
Apec pads don't last quite as well as TC ones, and I only fit them to worn discs as a stop gap as I find the discs need changing every other pad change anyways :-\
-
I do genuine sets on ABS for £12
Keith B
-
I do genuine sets on ABS for £12
Keith B
Can't argue with that :y
-
I do genuine sets on ABS for £12
Keith B
Are they TC or OE ?? (he asked with interest ..... :) )
-
So what would i be paying for discs and pads at the stealers using a bahnstormers card?
-
About £100 for front disc/pad set :y
Ask nicerly at you nearest dealer and they might get close to TC prices :y
-
Try Autovaux as I get some good deals from them
Keith B
-
Seems to me proven answers by long standing members gathered by experience and trial and error over long periods, have to be re proven on every thread these days.
I very rarely use a factors for the omega. Trade club from the dealers carry oe parts with a good saving even over factor prices.
Trade club brake parts ARE the way. Anything cheaper simply doesn't cut it. I've seen pattern factor parts, like ferrodo pads , cause serious issues on squeal and brake quality.
It's really not worth the trying to find cheaper.
Generally, use trade club for everything except ignition parts and wishbones. Springs are cheaper elsewhere, but are invariably shite.
Anyway. Trade club pads where £14 last I looked.
-
Keith, I can always act as a go between for tradeclub stuff if you need :y
-
Here you go, £14.44 posted from a Vx dealer. :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-04-2003-FRONT-BRAKE-PADS-9192124-/271313721264?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Cars+Year%3A2000%7CCar+Make%3AVauxhall%7CCars+Type%3A2.5+V6%7CModel%3AOmega&hash=item3f2b8ed7b0
-
Good find :y
Free postage too 8)
-
I bought a set of Vx front pads for £9 posted a while back, so it's always worth a quick trawl through fleabay. :y
Does anyone know who supplies brake pads to GM/Vx? ??? :-\
-
I now know what pads i need however i expected to find them down to the metal as i have the " brake pad" warning on dash... But the pads have about 8mm left on them and the wires that plug into the pads are not even connected? And before anyone says they are not chaffing on anything metal..
-
I now know what pads i need however i expected to find them down to the metal as i have the " brake pad" warning on dash... But the pads have about 8mm left on them and the wires that plug into the pads are not even connected? And before anyone says they are not chaffing on anything metal..
Is the pad warning on the info display or in the cluster :-\
-
Its in the display.. Wasn't aware there was a seperate warning in cluster?
-
Just checking :y the one on the cluster is brake fluid level...
Is the warning intermittent?
-
At first yes but on whenever i start car... Goes off after a few minutes.
-
Try Autovaux as I get some good deals from them
Keith B
The trouble with them is they are full of lies. They try to make out stuff is genuine, or by the OEM that makes the genuine part, when the stuff usually isn't.
Having been caught out by them on more than one occasion, I cannot recommend them any more, nor will I ever use them again.
-
At first yes but on whenever i start car... Goes off after a few minutes.
Its the circuit has been broken. As the pads get to about 2/3rds worn, it wears through the (separate) sensor that clips into the pad, popping up the warning.
TBH, at 2/3rds wear, I'd bin the pads anyway, as their ability to disperse heat is spent. Actually, I change my pads long before the sensors get touched, as after about half worn, they can't take the abuse I put them through for long.
-
Would the brake pad warning come on if the piston travels further than it would like and set off the warning anyway despite the pad sensors not being connected? Like a kind of secondary warning? I don't know what I'm actually talking about here..
-
The sensors are not attached.. They are zip wired up out of the way
-
The sensor wire earthing is what puts the light on :y
break all to do with piston travel ::)
-
Shall i just snip the wires off at the base and tape the remaining bit up?
-
You could try unplugging the sensor flylead, then tape it up...
-
Ok what's a flylead?
-
The wire that goes from the plug to the pad :y
-
You meen the end metal thing? I shall do it tomorrow... :y
-
Plug should be clipped to the front strut...
-
Shall i just snip the wires off at the base and tape the remaining bit up?
No, the circuit needs to be complete to keep the warning off. That's how it works. As the pad material wears it eventually meat the disc, this wears through the porcelain and breaks the sensor circuit. Disconnect sensor/break the sensor wire or circuit/wear through the sensor as designed, all bring the warning on.
If the sensor is connected up and plugged in, but not fitted to the calliper it should never bring the warning on. If the warning is on under these circumstances then the electrical circuit is broken for some other reason than a worn through sensor due to pad wear.
In which case remove the sensor and find a spare piece of wire, like house hold flex, to join the connections in the sensor socket.
If the warning is then still on, then there's an issue with the car loom.
-
Would setting fire to this money pit sort it out once and for all? :-\
-
Would setting fire to this money pit sort it out once and for all? :-\
£14 for pads and a bit of wire/flex is hardly expensive.
...and your welcome. Btw ::)
-
I bought a set of Vx front pads for £9 posted a while back, so it's always worth a quick trawl through fleabay. :y
Does anyone know who supplies brake pads to GM/Vx? ??? :-\
Suspect pagid supply oe pads.
Tc pads being very different . But no idea who supplies those. But that's exactly the way to source parts. Find the oe supplier. :y
However, buying through ebay gives cheap copy parts a chance to enter the system. :(
-
Haha sorry... Thank you for your advice.... I shall have a better look at it tomorrow .. I don't do wires and cables n stuff as it confuses me ( as its obvious).. Small niggles like this really get on my t**s.. Like to see obvious problems...
-
If its Brakepad in the MID, (or the orange light under the TID on TID cars), then that is simply the circuit is broken. Piston travel, brake fluid, voodoo have no effect.
If its the red light on dash, same as handbrake light, that's either the handbrake switch or low fluid (which can be caused by low pads)
-
Haha sorry... Thank you for your advice.... I shall have a better look at it tomorrow .. I don't do wires and cables n stuff as it confuses me ( as its obvious).. Small niggles like this really get on my t**s.. Like to see obvious problems...
It's really easy. Make a piece of wire in a u shape and plug it in. Simples. ;)
-
Yup... Warning in the info display... Going to change pads anyway as they are half gone so shall see if there's a break in the painfully thin wires and with my diminishing eyesight too ;D
-
If its Brakepad in the MID, (or the orange light under the TID on TID cars), then that is simply the circuit is broken. Piston travel, brake fluid, voodoo have no effect.
If its the red light on dash, same as handbrake light, that's either the handbrake switch or low fluid (which can be caused by low pads)
...and hence fitting new pads might push the fluid back up the system and raise the level in the brake fluid tank. (Although opening the calliper nipple is the best when pushing the pitons back in, before Master Dtm goes off on one ;) ;D )
-
Plug it in what? Am i missing something silly and need to be ashamed of myself and need to sit in a corner and have a good chat to myself? :D
-
Plug it in what? Am i missing something silly and need to be ashamed of myself and need to sit in a corner and have a good chat to myself? :D
Yup ::)
-
Right.. From beginning... Two lose wires that " should" be connected to brake pads are not just tied up out of the way doing sod all... Nothing electrical at all connected to pads...
-
Unplug that wire at the plug and replace the plug with a single length of wire, each end inserted into the two holes on the socket still attached to the car :y
-
Ive seen that method rust up leaving the car sensorless for life.
If there is a sensor attached, just cut the end off and join the wires, secure out the way, and job done and easily swap outable should you want sensors again.
-
Right.. From beginning... Two lose wires that " should" be connected to brake pads are not just tied up out of the way doing sod all... Nothing electrical at all connected to pads...
The sensor is a shielded pair of wires in a thing cable, which goes to an L shaped "sensor" (which is just a loop of wire, which breaks (wears through) when the pads are worn). This L shaped sensor plugs into the rivet hole where the antirattle springs are attached, but friction material side.
If you don't want to replace the sensors, you need to short out the 2 wires in the cable that goes to the pad, so the system thinks the "sensor" is still in tact.
-
Haha ive just had the eureka moment... I understand fully now hahaha sorry for being stupid guys...
-
Haha ive just had the eureka moment... I understand fully now hahaha sorry for being stupid guys...
:y
Now go and stand in the corner, and have a good talking with yourself :P ;D