Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: chrisgixer on 04 March 2014, 18:35:52
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Cable busted today on my current door, spent most of this avo battling with it, and replacing the roller on the side.
Screwed in fixings are rounding off and not holding in the wood frame. Spacers missing on the spring guides etc etc.
Its an up over and made of wood. Counterbalanced by two long springs on cables above the door. I've just painted it too. ::)
Being a single garage, space is at a premium. Stuff on the walls near the door and head room especially are an issue. Just ask Lazydocker :o ;D I've cracked me head on it a few times too.
I'm thinking a roller shutter would save the most space. They would need to bring the door frame in to the inner edge of the brickwork to clear the lintel I guess, no biggy, cars too big to go in there anyway. But the narrow slats tend to look naf and I'm betting they are the most expensive.
I,m not familiar with the descriptions of other designs, but cost may dictate something over head, which may not be worth the expense.
Thoughts gents please. :)
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Blow the garage up and claim for a new door on the insurance.
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Blow the garage up and claim for a new door on the insurance.
You need to work on your advice Esta. The garage is on the side of the house.
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Blow the garage up and claim for a new door on the insurance.
You need to work on your advice Esta. The garage is on the side of the house.
Wow! The claim could be huge :y
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I can imagine the scene: you and Jaime standing beside a wrecked house and you saying to him "You were only supposed to blow the bloody doors off". ;D
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Blow the garage up and claim for a new door on the insurance.
You need to work on your advice Esta. The garage is on the side of the house.
Wow! The claim could be huge :y
I quite like my house. Although a bigger garage would be nice. If we move it could be a waist of money.
It might be the Scouse way, but dodgy claims on insurance are not the done thing in Reading. [leaves room! nose in air! ;D ]
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I can imagine the scene: you and Jaime standing beside a wrecked house and you saying to him "You were only supposed to blow the bloody doors off". ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D
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Yours is classed a canopy type, vertical runners. Generally a constant PITA.
My old one was a fully retracting, horizontal runners. My preference, as tend to give less agro, and ideal for electric operators.
Roller, you know about.
That's about it, excluding old style hinged doors...
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Downside of fully retracting like mine is that high shelves right near the door may foul more than a canopy type. Obviously the upside is when open, the door is always horizontal, unlike canopy, where the front tends to be lower, perfectly head height ;D
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However, this thread has reminded me....!
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Any use...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GLIDEROL-Roller-Garage-Door-8ft-wide-x7ft-high-White-/161186337776?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Doors_LE&hash=item25877453f0
:y
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I had a spring fail on my canopy door a few years ago and fixed it, with a few tricks. Sounds like this one might be further gone, though?
Roller shutter would be what I would go for (and have actually been considering it, TBH). Beware that if you buy a second hand one you need to make sure you don't manually wind the roller round past the motor's limit, as it mullers the motor with no warning. :-X
I have a nice electric opener on my canopy door. Don't think they make them any more - called a cardale autoglide. Don't believe anyone who claims to be able to get a ceiling mounted opener to work with them. ::)
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The one I have is Cardale (in Brackley) according the badge on the handle. I have fixed it, to the point its useable. But its only a matter of time. It's the second time the cable on that side has broken, and I swore last time it would last until I sorted a roller. ::) oh how time cures the memory of pain. ;D
Looking at the plans for a roller door in Al's link (thanks Al) a roller isn't without space issues. TB's garage has two or three bricks extra width either side of the door for instance. Mine has a 3 inch wooden frame, then half a brick. Not much room for gubbins on the end.
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There isn't any gubbins on the end, certainly not on the type I was looking at. It all fits in the width between the two rails that guide the door up and down. :-\
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There isn't any gubbins on the end, certainly not on the type I was looking at. It all fits in the width between the two rails that guide the door up and down. :-\
There's usually a winder on the end, for when the power fails, or it over stresses the motor. (Motor being in the centre of the roller as you say) also depends how much overlap they need.
Just had an email quotation, remote controlled electric roller door. £1,600 pfffffff....siiiiigh.
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Just had an email quotation, remote controlled electric roller door. £1,600 pfffffff....siiiiigh.
Better get your name down on the OT list then ::) ::) ::) ::)
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Think I'll fix the old one. :(
(WHEN it breaks again)
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The one I linked to only needs an inch either side :y
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90mm I thought, looking at the chart. 125mm for a double.
Or bring the brackets in, but make the fixing wider. Narrows the opening, but who cares...?
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Replace the existing frame with 4"x4" posts :y
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Don't believe anyone who claims to be able to get a ceiling mounted opener to work with them. ::)
Little bro has, but they are a pain to set up, and the additional arm hangs low enough to cause scalp damage.
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TB's garage has two or three bricks extra width either side of the door for instance. Mine has a 3 inch wooden frame, then half a brick. Not much room for gubbins on the end.
Its no wider, nothing was wider than the door frame. Height, esp if you want to electrify it, could be an issue.
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The trouble with a roller shutter is that you have a large roller section at the top of the assembly so head room, particularly in domestic installs, is compromised.
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The height the roller door opens too may be very similar to the height of the up and over canopy door.
The difference being the new door will only be an inch wide strip across the opening I have to duck under. Where as the existing door is a 6 foot square area right over where I use the garage most. At the opening working on cars. I spend the entire time stooped over. ...it's not even useful when it rains as its wood and leaks through the slats.
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I quite like the American roller doors which follow a track on the ceiling. Easy to automate and no more problems with head clearance than a canopy type.
Are they available in the UK? :-\
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Just had an email quotation, remote controlled electric roller door. £1,600 pfffffff....siiiiigh.
Better get your name down on the OT list then ::) ::) ::) ::)
£1.6k :o :o
Sod that. It's only a door ;D
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I quite like the American roller doors which follow a track on the ceiling. Easy to automate and no more problems with head clearance than a canopy type.
Are they available in the UK? :-\
Yes, they are 'up n over doors' from memory.
They do result in 2.2m of your ceiling being covered with the door open so can obscure lights in that area.
But yes, they are probably the better solution in reality.
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I quite like the American roller doors which follow a track on the ceiling. Easy to automate and no more problems with head clearance than a canopy type.
Are they available in the UK? :-\
Yes, they are 'up n over doors' from memory.
They do result in 2.2m of your ceiling being covered with the door open so can obscure lights in that area.
But yes, they are probably the better solution in reality.
I recall many of the ones I have seen have a light included in the motor body to help with that, but yes you are right, that's a lot of ceiling to cover.
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Just had an email quotation, remote controlled electric roller door. £1,600 pfffffff....siiiiigh.
Better get your name down on the OT list then ::) ::) ::) ::)
£1.6k :o :o
Sod that. It's only a door ;D
I don't doubt that you could by the door and DIY fit it in a couple of hours for half that. ::)
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The trouble with a roller shutter is that you have a large roller section at the top of the assembly so head room, particularly in domestic installs, is compromised.
Yes, it does depend on having the height above the door frame. If you do have that height, though, it takes up less usable space than any other solution, IMHO.
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What's wrong with just a set of double doors, that open outwards?
Or even concertina doors if space is an issue?
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The ceiling beams are boarded out and plaster boarded, then there's a metal lintel about a foot high. Then the wood door frame.
Its standard practice to move the door frame in to give the door a straight run down. There by also giving opportunity to raise the roll as high as possible as the run to the runners is straighter and less likely to buckle, of course. This means minimal door can be left in the runners.
On first glance, 15" is plenty, it should then clear the door frame, where the current door hangs a good 6" lower than the door frame depending on where you position it. Even if the roller also hangs 6" lower giving 21" of depth as the current door, that's still a vast improvement on the current doors 6ft square head banging, plus I can hang stuff on the walls right near the door. :)
I'd be surprised if the roller was lower, I don't see an issue but a roller is the way for space. That just leaves cost.
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The trouble with a roller shutter is that you have a large roller section at the top of the assembly so head room, particularly in domestic installs, is compromised.
Yes, it does depend on having the height above the door frame. If you do have that height, though, it takes up less usable space than any other solution, IMHO.
Yes, if your fortunate to have some additional height inernaly then yes although you are likely to have the finished door set back further than the existing.
Had a few roller shutter doors fitted recently (three off in total), one monster one (think greater than double garage width and twice the height) was 1200 installed, two smaller ones (garage door ish size) were 700 notes each.
There not motorised though.
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What's wrong with just a set of double doors, that open outwards?
Or even concertina doors if space is an issue?
Doors that open out on a single drive restrict space on the drive and means parking further away to allow the doors to open. The ones I've seen also refuse to open more than 90 degrees. That's ok one one side as it opens on the house wall. But the other is the main access if there's a car on the drive. Space is a premium here.
However given cost, they may have to be considered.
Concertina one side might work, but runners across the top and multi hinges have proved unreliable in the past ime. Ditto these on cost.
Not my preference but as always, money decides.
Security strikes me as more of an issue with these too.
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My only concern on reliability with a roller is the motor. We had one at my old work. Went pop after a year. Replaced under warranty, but as it was getting business use with deliveries every half hour or so, only that amount of use meant it failed within the warranty period.
If the motor had been fitted in a residential location it would have been out of warranty and given the owner a large bill.
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You need to see what type of motor it is, an induction motor for example is pretty bulletproof, a universal motor on the other hand has more 'issues'.
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Sent an email enquiry. Only motor reference is somfy by the looks.
http://www.sws.co.uk/products/seceuroglide/?/garage-doors/
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Looks like a Universal motor....its basicaly a mains drill in a tube.