Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Shackeng on 07 April 2014, 09:59:53
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Although not leaking, this area on the manifold outlet pipe on my 3.2 attracted an advisory last year. Same both sides. It is only a matter of time before it goes right through.The outer section of this looks as though it is clipped round the bend in the main pipe. If so is it replaceable independently? The exhaust pipe around which this is wrapped appears to be all one containing cat and sensors. Presumably an expensive section to replace. Any advice, tips, prices etc. would be welcome. :-\ :-\ :-\
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k631/Shackeng1/Exhaust005.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Shackeng1/media/Exhaust005.jpg.html)
(http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k631/Shackeng1/Exhaust004-1.jpg) (http://s1119.photobucket.com/user/Shackeng1/media/Exhaust004-1.jpg.html)
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Incidentally, I do know about the missing bolt in the lower pic. I removed it while dealing with some tin worm on the chassis leg. :y
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Not a lot you can do TBH
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Not a lot you can do TBH
Except replace the whole lot, cat included??? :( :( :(
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try a post in the parts wanted for a secondhand pair :y if it aint leaking then it will be another advisory
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I'm still trying to establish if the whole section including the catalyser has to be replaced, or are these rusty shields replaceable? I'm sure someone else has suffered from this problem. :-\ :-\ :-\
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I can't see it being an MOT issue unless there's a leak of exhaust gases. It looks like most of the issue is the heat shields, so I'd be inclined to let them rot away and hope for the best. I'd be surprised if the cats are on the brink of rotting through as well, TBH. If they do, then a 2nd hand pair would be your best bet, as genuine will be an arm and a leg, and pattern cats are simply not worth bothering with.
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It's just the heat shield that's rusted, the pre cat will be fine, don't worry, they all do it to an extent.
As your handy with spanners, maybe worth a jubilee clip or two, to hold it on. And of bothering with that, fashion a heat shield out of thin plate to cover the rusted parts.
They catch any water as it runs down between the heat shield and the cat section. You can see the cats under the layers.
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Is ther a bolt missing, above the steering idler, btw?
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It's just the heat shield that's rusted, the pre cat will be fine, don't worry, they all do it to an extent.
As your handy with spanners, maybe worth a jubilee clip or two, to hold it on. And of bothering with that, fashion a heat shield out of thin plate to cover the rusted parts.
They catch any water as it runs down between the heat shield and the cat section. You can see the cats under the layers.
Shows how much I know, I didn't realise the cat was under there. :-[ :-[ :-[
Thanks for the advice KW and CG. It is not leaking at present, so I think a bit of tin ware is required. Back in the day it was gun gum, wire gauze and locking wire, maybe its time to try it again. ::) ::) ::)
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Is ther a bolt missing, above the steering idler, btw?
Well spotted, see reply#1. :y :y :y
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It's just the heat shield that's rusted, the pre cat will be fine, don't worry, they all do it to an extent.
As your handy with spanners, maybe worth a jubilee clip or two, to hold it on. And of bothering with that, fashion a heat shield out of thin plate to cover the rusted parts.
They catch any water as it runs down between the heat shield and the cat section. You can see the cats under the layers.
Shows how much I know, I didn't realise the cat was under there. :-[ :-[ :-[
Thanks for the advice KW and CG. It is not leaking at present, so I think a bit of tin ware is required. Back in the day it was gun gum, wire gauze and locking wire, maybe its time to try it again. ::) ::) ::)
Its the starting cat (aka, pre-cat) behind that lot - that's the one that gives all us 3.2 owners those pesky codes.
The main cat is further back, and far more obvious :)
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It's just the heat shield that's rusted, the pre cat will be fine, don't worry, they all do it to an extent.
As your handy with spanners, maybe worth a jubilee clip or two, to hold it on. And of bothering with that, fashion a heat shield out of thin plate to cover the rusted parts.
They catch any water as it runs down between the heat shield and the cat section. You can see the cats under the layers.
Shows how much I know, I didn't realise the cat was under there. :-[ :-[ :-[
Thanks for the advice KW and CG. It is not leaking at present, so I think a bit of tin ware is required. Back in the day it was gun gum, wire gauze and locking wire, maybe its time to try it again. ::) ::) ::)
Its the starting cat (aka, pre-cat) behind that lot - that's the one that gives all us 3.2 owners those pesky codes.
The main cat is further back, and far more obvious :)
Ah, I thought there was only one!!! :-[ What does the pre-cat do exactly?
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It's just the heat shield that's rusted, the pre cat will be fine, don't worry, they all do it to an extent.
As your handy with spanners, maybe worth a jubilee clip or two, to hold it on. And of bothering with that, fashion a heat shield out of thin plate to cover the rusted parts.
They catch any water as it runs down between the heat shield and the cat section. You can see the cats under the layers.
Shows how much I know, I didn't realise the cat was under there. :-[ :-[ :-[
Thanks for the advice KW and CG. It is not leaking at present, so I think a bit of tin ware is required. Back in the day it was gun gum, wire gauze and locking wire, maybe its time to try it again. ::) ::) ::)
Its the starting cat (aka, pre-cat) behind that lot - that's the one that gives all us 3.2 owners those pesky codes.
The main cat is further back, and far more obvious :)
Ah, I thought there was only one!!! :-[ What does the pre-cat do exactly?
Allows it to meet modern emissions (not tested at MOT). As its smaller, it heats better, thus becomes more effective quicker, meeting a requirement for emissions to be under a threshold after a threshold amount of time after starting. I believe the Y series engines were Euro3 compliant.
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Thanks Jaime. :y :y :y
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...and when it becomes less efficient, as they all do eventually, due the hard life they get, they raise the error codes 0430 0420 that brings the car spanner light on.
(Unless mater has moved the second lambdas to behind the main cat, of course. ;) )
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I have heard it suggested that late 3.2s actually meet Euro 4 :-\
Summat to do with German environmental charging in various cities was the context iirc :y
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...and when it becomes less efficient, as they all do eventually, due the hard life they get, they raise the error codes 0430 0420 that brings the car spanner light on.
(Unless mater has moved the second lambdas to behind the main cat, of course. ;) )
I wondered what that was for. :-X
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Never could work out why the EML intermittent test system needed two codes :D
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If I decide to replace the front sections, will the 3.0 pipes fit the 3.2, and if so what, if any, modification is required? :-\ :y
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I'm not sure my 2.5 has pre cats, although it does have the same rusty sheild as in your photos. Is that because it has SAI instead? If so same may apply to 3L cats.
Sure someone who actually knows will be along soon!
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The pipes inside will be solid so no need to replace.
If the heatshields have come loose and are rattling you could put a jubilee clip around each end to hold them in place.
If really rotten then cut them off and wrap the down pipes in an exhaust heat-shield bandage - lots available on the bay- this keeps the heat away from the bulkhead etc and reduces the noise level. Got to say that this is best done with the pipes unbolted and lowered down though, nigh on impossible in-situ.
You may find some 2.5/3l pipes in good condition but would have to fit another lambda boss after the main cat to fool the ecu.
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I suspect that earlier models may not have the pre-cats. Mine has a sensor before and after these 'boxes', and I would like to know what, if anything, I would need to do if I replace the front sections with those for a 3.0L, which are much cheaper, and appear not to have the pre-cats. :-\ :-\ :-\
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The pipes inside will be solid so no need to replace.
If the heatshields have come loose and are rattling you could put a jubilee clip around each end to hold them in place.
If really rotten then cut them off and wrap the down pipes in an exhaust heat-shield bandage - lots available on the bay- this keeps the heat away from the bulkhead etc and reduces the noise level. Got to say that this is best done with the pipes unbolted and lowered down though, nigh on impossible in-situ.
You may find some 2.5/3l pipes in good condition but would have to fit another lambda boss after the main cat to fool the ecu.
I am advised that they are the pre-cats. :y
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I suspect that earlier models may not have the pre-cats. Mine has a sensor before and after these 'boxes', and I would like to know what, if anything, I would need to do if I replace the front sections with those for a 3.0L, which are much cheaper, and appear not to have the pre-cats. :-\ :-\ :-\
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=104510
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Thanks Rob, I'm still not quite clear. If I fit 3.0l pipes, I need to move the existing sensors that are fitted before the pre-cats to where on the 3.0l pipes? It appears that 3.0's only have one sensor. Unfortunately the pics don't show the finished article. :y