Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: 05omegav6 on 13 April 2014, 18:06:49
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Would it be suitable for caliper use?
Need one to accept an M10x 1.5 banjo bolt. How would I select a suitable one?
Ever so slightly miffed of Sussex...
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Looking at the picture, if you pop the piston out,that might give you acces to the hole and then you could run a tap thro from the back,thus restoring the thread,use lots of grease,when cutting the thread.
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That pic was taken post tapping, basically the thread on hollow bolt is only about 3mm longer than the depth of the stripped portion when fitted with the brake hose, so with the chamfer on it, it doesn't really get a grip, and so won't tighten :-\
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You can buy longer banjo bolts.
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You can buy longer banjo bolts.
:y Not on a Sunday apparently ::)
Should have taken a picture of the yoofs face when I asked in Halfrods ;D
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Mmmm. Always hated alloy calipers for the reason you have found,
other way is clean the banjo bolt up,lots of grease and slowly thread it in, 1 turn up then half a turn back,might work. You will be using the bolt as the tap,thread cleaner.
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Trouble is that first 6mm is now M10.5+... the bolt is barely an interference fit for the first 7mm. Put another way, once screwed in, you can pull it out with minimal jiggling :-\
A bolt another half inch longer with threadlock should be deep and stable enough to remain leak free and secure...
In defence of the aluminium cheese, considering that they're twice the size of the standard Omega caliper, they weigh about the same 8)
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We use Time-Serts or similar in Aluminium at work but that would mean going over-size. We use finished size of M8 otherwise I would have grabbed a couple for you. You'd really need the insert tool as well but you can put some types in with a flat blade screwdriver. :-\
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We use Time-Serts or similar in Aluminium at work but that would mean going over-size. We use finished size of M8 otherwise I would have grabbed a couple for you. You'd really need the insert tool as well but you can put some types in with a flat blade screwdriver. :-\
Would they be fluid tight :-\
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We use Time-Serts or similar in Aluminium at work but that would mean going over-size. We use finished size of M8 otherwise I would have grabbed a couple for you. You'd really need the insert tool as well but you can put some types in with a flat blade screwdriver. :-\
Would they be fluid tight :-\
Fair point. :-\
Could be an issue if they seal on a taper. :-\ Tightness wouldn't be an issue but some types have a shoulder and some are continuous. Is it the feed pipe inlet that you've stripped?
Edit:
Ah, just looked at pics and it sits on a shoulder so the seal is on the shoulder. That would involve slight counter-bore for shoulder type insert or a 'continuous' would keep going until it bottomed out. Any fluid back-tracking up the thread should still not be able to pass the seal.
Just a suggestion Al but best to double check, as per your post, as I've not used them where fluids are concerned. :y
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Would it be suitable for caliper use?
Need one to accept an M10x 1.5 banjo bolt. How would I select a suitable one?
Ever so slightly miffed of Sussex...
Shouldn't that be M10 x 1.25?
I don't like timeserts because they can come loose.
I would try Helicoil/Recoil first. Timesert requires a larger tapping size drill (so keep as a last resort)
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Thanks for that :y will try the longer bolts first and go from there...
Andy H, measured at 1.5 using the gauge supplied with the tap/die set :y
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I presume the caliper isn't easily replaceable? I doubt that a Helicoil or any of the similar products will work for a hydraulic fitting, and you don't want a suspect thread thread there.
A proper repair would be to bore and tap a much bigger hole, and insert a machined plug into it to replicate the original fitting. That is not a cheap solution unless you know a decent machinist. I'd risk it on my own stuff, but wouldn't on anyone elses. A friend reckoned that doing a similar job on his dad's Lamborghini calipers paid for the cost of the milling machine.
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Would it be suitable for caliper use?
Need one to accept an M10x 1.5 banjo bolt. How would I select a suitable one?
Ever so slightly miffed of Sussex...
Shouldn't that be M10 x 1.25?
I don't like timeserts because they can come loose.
I would try Helicoil/Recoil first. Timesert requires a larger tapping size drill (so keep as a last resort)
and a helicoil doesn't ??? ??? ??? ??? Use a thread lock on a timesert & it's unlikely to come loose ;)
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I don't like timeserts because they can come loose.
I would try Helicoil/Recoil first. Timesert requires a larger tapping size drill (so keep as a last resort)
We have to use Time Sert or similar as they are for fixture bolts which are tightened and removed daily. Helicoils simply couldn't hack the torque we were throwing at them on a daily basis. Just my opinion but we found Helicoil more suited to one-off fix, but we need a replacement thread so we use the inserts. :y
Horses for courses I suppose. :y
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We have to use Time Sert or similar as they are for fixture bolts which are tightened and removed daily. Helicoils simply couldn't hack the torque we were throwing at them on a daily basis. Just my opinion but we found Helicoil more suited to one-off fix, but we need a replacement thread so we use the inserts. :y
Horses for courses I suppose. :y
Agreed with all of the above. :y :y :y
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Worst case, I could ask the people who tweaked the discs to rustle up an adaptor... that said, the place I will try for the longer bolts might also have a ready made solution :y
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Try a local hydraulic pipe place eg pirtek, they have different sizes of banjo bolt,and can make up the pipe if you need to change it.be easier than trying to get goodrige to make with out diagram etc and they are in Exeter (nxt to the airport)
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Would it be suitable for caliper use?
Need one to accept an M10x 1.5 banjo bolt. How would I select a suitable one?
Ever so slightly miffed of Sussex...
Shouldn't that be M10 x 1.25?
I don't like timeserts because they can come loose.
I would try Helicoil/Recoil first. Timesert requires a larger tapping size drill (so keep as a last resort)
and a helicoil doesn't ??? ??? ??? ??? Use a thread lock on a timesert & it's unlikely to come loose ;)
Is threadlock OK for use with brake fluid?
I am suspicious about the thread pitch - I thought calliper banjo bolts had a fine pitch :-\ Using an M10x1.5 tap might be what destroyed the old thread :-\
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Would it be suitable for caliper use?
Need one to accept an M10x 1.5 banjo bolt. How would I select a suitable one?
Ever so slightly miffed of Sussex...
Shouldn't that be M10 x 1.25?
I don't like timeserts because they can come loose.
I would try Helicoil/Recoil first. Timesert requires a larger tapping size drill (so keep as a last resort)
and a helicoil doesn't ??? ??? ??? ??? Use a thread lock on a timesert & it's unlikely to come loose ;)
Is threadlock OK for use with brake fluid?
I am suspicious about the thread pitch - I thought calliper banjo bolts had a fine pitch :-\ Using an M10x1.5 tap might be what destroyed the old thread :-\
Me too,1.5 pitch is a pretty coarse thread at that diameter
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Measured and remeasured... Tapping the hole initially to clean the threads was effortless. The bolt was the one fitted to the Omega caliper.
I might have stripped the thread over torquing it, but the nearside one is far tighter with no issue :-\
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I'd be inclined to helicoil it and be done, if it's sealing on the flat face with copper washers you should still have enough meat left to seal on without problem.
If you wanted to timesert it I'd be looking to drill & tap appropriate for the insert, apply Loctite 567 (brake fluid safe thread sealant), timesert it, run the face under a mill to make sure it's completely flat and bolt back up with the original banjo and washer. I'd put good money on that sealing..
If I'd bought the little mill for my Myford I'd say bring it over, but I didn't (d'oh) and I don't think a whole caliper waving about in the four jaw chuck on the lathe would be a good idea ;D
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Helicoil it is :y specifically an M10 X 1.5 pitch X 1.5D apparently... Being fitted tomorrow.
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Just checked in Zeus book, M10x1.5 is ISO Metric coarse & M10x1.25 is ISO Metric fine, HTH. :y
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I'd be testing that with full pedal pressure before driving anywhere, personally.
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I'd be testing that with full pedal pressure before driving anywhere, personally.
Have discussed with the machinist :y consensus is that the helicoil will be inside the inner diameter of the copper seal, and therefore unable to leak...
Apparently whenever they make summat from aluminium, they fit helicoils from new, as it enables dismantling/refitting. Whereas manufacturers don't bother as, in their eyes, their workshops will never need to undo the fixing ::)
It's not the first set they've done by a long margin :y
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Have discussed with the machinist :y consensus is that the helicoil will be inside the inner diameter of the copper seal, and therefore unable to leak.
It's not the first set they've done by a long margin :y
Hopefully it will be fine Al. Providing the wire coil has something to hang on to, others seem to have been successful in using coils. :y
It's not as if they are removed on a regular basis. If they were, an insert would have been a safer bet. Similar example of yours below. :y
(http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac142/Alan-Hearn/Random%20Pics/349c9327-0269-4602-8375-4a08bb0dd7bc_zps3aa39938.jpg) (http://s894.photobucket.com/user/Alan-Hearn/media/Random%20Pics/349c9327-0269-4602-8375-4a08bb0dd7bc_zps3aa39938.jpg.html)
(http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac142/Alan-Hearn/Random%20Pics/4189694b-a6f8-489f-9cfa-dfab506a9420_zpsfa627144.jpg) (http://s894.photobucket.com/user/Alan-Hearn/media/Random%20Pics/4189694b-a6f8-489f-9cfa-dfab506a9420_zpsfa627144.jpg.html)
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That top pic looks familiar... Will find out later today :y
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Helicoil won't leak and will be stronger than the original thread, it's a fit once or twice application so perfectly suited.
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Helicoil won't leak and will be stronger than the original thread, it's a fit once or twice application so perfectly suited.
Pleased to confirm, definitely leak free :y