Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: iansoutham on 10 June 2014, 21:21:42
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Hi guys, I understand that there are different software levels for the automatic gearboxes as discussed on this forum many a time..
Am I still correct in saying that version 9 is the highest level? Mine is as per info on the left.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/iansoutham/R169%20PNP%20Omega%20Estate/IMG_1445_zps6b080aec.jpg) (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/iansoutham/media/R169%20PNP%20Omega%20Estate/IMG_1445_zps6b080aec.jpg.html)
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/iansoutham/R169%20PNP%20Omega%20Estate/IMG_1443_zps71545082.jpg) (http://s10.photobucket.com/user/iansoutham/media/R169%20PNP%20Omega%20Estate/IMG_1443_zps71545082.jpg.html)
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Believe so.
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Good, good. Thankyou dear Dr Sir
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Can be up to 0A iirc.
You need to plug into TIS to be sure for your individual car.
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Version 9 is the latest I have seen for the 2.0 petrol
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V9 is latest for all GS820 varients
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Sorry to jump on this, but would mine benefit from having this update/upgrade? Is it even possible on mine, or is it too old as I believe it's pre tech2 even though it's got an 16 pin obd2 connector in the fuse box.
It does do the cycling up and down thing I've read about in other posts, also I've never really been happy with it's eagerness to drop down a cog or three at the slightest bit of load in comparison to my old senator(same gearbox??) which just cruised up the steepest of hills like they weren't there 8).
The oil and filter have been done a couple of times and the old oil looked to be in good condition each time. There is a leak from, I think the selector on the side of the box but that's all. Does this sound normal?(not the leak ::))
Could it be engine related? i.e. lack of low end toque that's causing the gearbox to respond as described?
What do you guys think or who do I need to be talking to?
Thanks in advance,
Simon
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What year is it?
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Well it's registered as a '97 but everything on it is dated '96.
Thanks for the quick response btw :y
Simon.
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Well it's registered as a '97 but everything on it is dated '96.
Thanks for the quick response btw :y
Simon.
Sounds too early. Last letter of VIN a S, T or V?
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It's V.
If it's too early for update is there any other help available?
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It's V.
If it's too early for update is there any other help available?
1997 Model Year. Too early for a firmware update. Not much you can do about it I'm afraid.
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Oh pants :'(....
Forgetting the gearbox, what options are available to me diagnostics wise? Is it possible to test for correct operation of all that air ram gubbins actuators and what not as it just doesn't seem to have much bottom end poke and "maybe" that's what is causing the car to drop gears early to maintain speed.
As far as I can tell there's no vac leaks and it seems to be plumbed correctly but might be wrong on that.
Car seems to go ok if you boot it, but I've no real reference to work from other than my old senator which would happily sit in top even towing a caravan up a gradient on the motorway where as this wants to use 2nd and a lot more petrol :'( :'( .As we're off to the alps in 5/6 weeks time I could do with all the help and advice that anyone would care to give :y
Thanks to The Boy for your timely response's.
Cheers,
Simon.
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No (low cost) generic code reader will speak to your car. There is an FAQ article on code readers which I wrote several years ago, but is still mostly valid.
The multirams can be checked in stages - firstly visually when revving - front should move with gentle revving, rear should move with a sharp rev to redline. Worth checking that the vac tanks can hold a good vac. Turn engine off, and 2 mins later pull off one of the vac feeds to multiram solenoid, you should here the vacuum hiss for a second or so.
//Edit: Does a 97 have 2 vac tanks?
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No (low cost) generic code reader will speak to your car. There is an FAQ article on code readers which I wrote several years ago, but is still mostly valid.
The multirams can be checked in stages - firstly visually when revving - front should move with gentle revving, rear should move with a sharp rev to redline. Worth checking that the vac tanks can hold a good vac. Turn engine off, and 2 mins later pull off one of the vac feeds to multiram solenoid, you should here the vacuum hiss for a second or so.
//Edit: Does a 97 have 2 vac tanks?
Mine does. :y
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Ok, what will talk to my car...tech1/2??
I did do a actuator test like that a few years ago and as far as I can remember that's how they responded but maybe I got it wrong, I'll run the test again asap.
I did fit a new vac tank (single only on mine) at the time as I managed to break the original pulling the pipes off, but this made no difference.
I gave up at that point because I had no way of moving forward and limited funds for a garage to tell me there wasn't anything wrong or they couldn't/didn't know what the cause was so I'm kinda hoping that now I have some very nice people who have intimate knowledge of the car to ask questions of I might stand a chance of getting the car it was meant to be.
The vac tank holds vacuum for days so at least something bloody works ;D.
Cheers,
Simon.
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For the engine, you'll find both tech1 and tech2 will work.
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I'll put a post up to see if there is anyone near me with that bit of kit.
Thank you very much TB for your help.
Simon.