Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: P6UL K on 27 June 2014, 10:16:51
-
Can anyone tell me the above?
Having serious issues with my 3.2 and this misfire I'm having, when it happens it's like having the brakes slammed on!! It literally throws you forward! I have to come off the gas, dip the clutch and start as per normal.
Happens with no real pattern either, very irregular!
Help!!
-
Can anyone tell me the above?
Having serious issues with my 3.2 and this misfire I'm having, when it happens it's like having the brakes slammed on!! It literally throws you forward! I have to come off the gas, dip the clutch and start as per normal.
Happens with no real pattern either, very irregular!
Help!!
Crank Sensor (if thats what your referring to) is normally a no start problem, or Ive heard in some cases, Engine cut out, followed by no start. As for the slamming you foward bit, no idea, does the TC or ABS light flash up at all?
-
As usual, any Codes?
-
Nope there's no codes and no fault lights either, I've had all the issues resolved that made the dash like a Xmas tree!
-
Nope there's no codes and no fault lights either, I've had all the issues resolved that made the dash like a Xmas tree!
ignition related.. which the ecu cant resolve..
-
Any thoughts then Cem?
-
When was the fuel filter last changed :-\
What mods have you made to the fuel/air delivery sides?
-
A 3.2 ECU is intelligent enough to create cylinder misfire codes if ignition problems cause a misfire, unlike the 2.5/3.0. :-\
-
Nope there's no codes and no fault lights either, I've had all the issues resolved that made the dash like a Xmas tree!
Hmm, must admit any DBW potential Miss Fires even small hic up ones have always thrown a fault light, be it only briefly sometimes. when was the last time the Codes were read with a Reader?
-
When was the fuel filter last changed :-\
What mods have you made to the fuel/air delivery sides?
Fuel filter was done within the last year.
Only mods are the air box and K&N filter, has had new Vx coilpacks, plugs, oil and filter in the last 3 months
-
A 3.2 ECU is intelligent enough to create cylinder misfire codes if ignition problems cause a misfire, unlike the 2.5/3.0. :-\
Which is why I didn't say loom, as that definitely generates codes...
Another thought, is the fuel light on/less than 1/4 tank :-\ what speed are you doing when this happens? Accelerating?
Top of the red to run out is about 5 miles at full chat :-X and fuel starvation is about the only thing which won't put a light on...
-
Nope there's no codes and no fault lights either, I've had all the issues resolved that made the dash like a Xmas tree!
Hmm, must admit any DBW potential Miss Fires even small hic up ones have always thrown a fault light, be it only briefly sometimes. when was the last time the Codes were read with a Reader?
Quite a while ago Chris, bloody typical this is as I'm driving to Devon on Monday for family hols! >:(
-
A 3.2 ECU is intelligent enough to create cylinder misfire codes if ignition problems cause a misfire, unlike the 2.5/3.0. :-\
Which is why I didn't say loom, as that definitely generates codes...
Another thought, is the fuel light on/less than 1/4 tank :-\ what speed are you doing when this happens? Accelerating?
Top of the red to run out is about 5 miles at full chat :-X and fuel starvation is about the only thing which won't put a light on...
Fuel very rarely goes below 1/4 of a tank and I always try to use Shell or Esso fuels if I can.
Yes always happens under acceleration albeit light or heavy footed, I did wonder if the signal from the pedal is breaking up on route to the ECU?
-
When was the fuel filter last changed :-\
What mods have you made to the fuel/air delivery sides?
Fuel filter was done within the last year.
Only mods are the air box and K&N filter, has had new Vx coilpacks, plugs, oil and filter in the last 3 months
Is it Oil'ed, Maf needs cleaning? :-\
-
When was the fuel filter last changed :-\
What mods have you made to the fuel/air delivery sides?
Fuel filter was done within the last year.
Only mods are the air box and K&N filter, has had new Vx coilpacks, plugs, oil and filter in the last 3 months
Is it Oil'ed, Maf needs cleaning? :-\
It's brand new mate, came oiled up already. I cleaned the MAF before fitting the filter but could there be a chance that the MAF is on it's way out?
-
That should put a light on, being electrical... basically whenever the ecu sees summat it doesn't like, it will try to compensate, and failing that put a light on. No lights means one of two things... either the bulb has blown or the issue is in a system that the ecu cannot see.
I'd be surprised if the output from the throttle pedal isn't monitored in some way, but it's essentially a variable resistor which might be failing, causing odd throttle responses :-\ sticking throttle body might be another cause...
-
Could be Maf, but as said that should put alight on, might not if the Maf still reading, be it inaccurately, but I wouldn't expect a Maf fail to give those symptoms your describing.
-
Im trying to picture in my mind what would cause your sudden stopping (being slammed forward) during a miss fire, without any braking involved, the only thing I can think off is your miss fire is total Ing. fail (no spark on all pots), or as Al's thinking, total Fuel fail, although I would have thought enough fuel pressure left in the system to run it down rather than a complete cut out. May be not if being hammered.
I wondering if its worth checking and re installing the 2 ECU plugs and checking the main wiring connectors under the battery, you could also swap the purple relays over, see if that does anything (if was me I would pop the covers off and have a look at the relay contacts), and generally checking, wiring loom, pushing relays fuses in the box.
Other thoughts, ECU??, I have had 2 go now on 3.2's without fault codes, one intermittent, the other total fail over night. :-\
-
Could be Maf, but as said that should put alight on, might not if the Maf still reading, be it inaccurately, but I wouldn't expect a Maf fail to give those symptoms your describing.
If the MAF gets oil on it it may still be OK electrically but feed duff readings to the ECU. Worth checking the long term fuel trims to see if the ECU has tried to adapt to misleading air flow readings.
-
Just disconnet maf and see if it cures fault - if it does replacement maf required ;)
-
Do you still have the old airfilter and a spare MAF for testing? Oiled filters are known to destroy MAFs - on the 2.6/3.2 this tends to be an under reading, rather than a "not working", hence no codes.
What are long term fuel trims doing?
-
Do you still have the old airfilter and a spare MAF for testing? Oiled filters are known to destroy MAFs - on the 2.6/3.2 this tends to be an under reading, rather than a "not working", hence no codes.
What are long term fuel trims doing?
The what now?
Yeah I still have it all but it's been doing this long before the fitting of the K&N
-
A 3.2 ECU is intelligent enough to create cylinder misfire codes if ignition problems cause a misfire, unlike the 2.5/3.0. :-\
Which is why I didn't say loom, as that definitely generates codes...
Another thought, is the fuel light on/less than 1/4 tank :-\ what speed are you doing when this happens? Accelerating?
Top of the red to run out is about 5 miles at full chat :-X and fuel starvation is about the only thing which won't put a light on...
I tought similiar but once started fuel starvation problems wll show very frequently and you can easily guess
I still think the ignition feed is cut completely for some reason :-\
-
Could be a left over from the runlock wiring I suppose :-\
-
I still think the ignition feed is cut completely for some reason :-\
Knowing the Motronic 3.1.1, I'd expect ignition codes for that, unless the entire ECU is shutting down.
-
Ime the 3.2/2.6 ecu shuts off a cylinder(s) completely until ignition off and re start.
So I doubt its ignition, unless the loom plug is loose? But again, no codes.... Have you seen constant flashing from the pedal trick/car spanner light?
If experiencing loss of drive under full power or firm acceleration, that would throw you forward, so to speak. Without braking. Especially in a manual as reverse load is more severe.
Fuel trims are a figure allocated to the amount of mixture adjustment the ecu is applying to get fuel air ratio correct. Normally around zero, if they are off you might see +5 or -10 as a variance for example. If the maf is miss reporting air volume, a fuel trim figure of more than, say, +or- 5 might support a faulty maf diagnosis.
But them again, if the trims go out by +/- 25 that would bring a warning light on, and the pedal trick would show the specific code.
Has the engine management light bulb been removed? Say to hide a pre cat code 0420/0430?
-
Fuel trims are a figure allocated to the amount of mixture adjustment the ecu is applying to get fuel air ratio correct. Normally around zero, if they are off you might see +5 or -10 as a variance for example. If the maf is miss reporting air volume, a fuel trim figure of more than, say, +or- 5 might support a faulty maf diagnosis.
But them again, if the trims go out by +/- 25 that would bring a warning light on, and the pedal trick would show the specific code.
To update that, for a non-LPG car, long term trims more that -1% - +1% indicates a problem with mixture, as seen by ECU.
Code gets stored around +-20%, EML on at 25%
:y
(LPG adds its own complications that we'll ignore as not relevant to OP)
-
Interesting information regarding the Fuel trims but how would I go about seeing the figures to be able to advise you as to what they are?
Car came to a complete standstill on the A2 last night, misfire got so bad that the car was struggling to run and pull its own weight up a slight hill. Its seriously over fuelling as well, I drove roughly 20 or so miles last night and managed to use just over a quarter of a tank! It's popping and banging on gearchange almost like the car has anti-lag! Okay might not be to that extreme but that's the best example I can think off to explain what is happening.
It's been suggested to me that because I have altered the air intake system the car is drawing in too much air now and the MAF can't monitor it's enough to adapt the Fuel Settings? And to make matters worse I meant to be driving to Cornwall on holiday on Monday morning so I've now got to try and sort out a doner or hire car!!
-
Interesting information regarding the Fuel trims but how would I go about seeing the figures to be able to advise you as to what they are?
Car came to a complete standstill on the A2 last night, misfire got so bad that the car was struggling to run and pull its own weight up a slight hill. Its seriously over fuelling as well, I drove roughly 20 or so miles last night and managed to use just over a quarter of a tank! It's popping and banging on gearchange almost like the car has anti-lag! Okay might not be to that extreme but that's the best example I can think off to explain what is happening.
It's been suggested to me that because I have altered the air intake system the car is drawing in too much air now and the MAF can't monitor it's enough to adapt the Fuel Settings? And to make matters worse I meant to be driving to Cornwall on holiday on Monday morning so I've now got to try and sort out a doner or hire car!!
Should the Air Intake increase the ECU will compensate for it and add the correct fuel ratio. As asked a few posts up, is the K and N heavily Oiled?
-
Interesting information regarding the Fuel trims but how would I go about seeing the figures to be able to advise you as to what they are?
Car came to a complete standstill on the A2 last night, misfire got so bad that the car was struggling to run and pull its own weight up a slight hill. Its seriously over fuelling as well, I drove roughly 20 or so miles last night and managed to use just over a quarter of a tank! It's popping and banging on gearchange almost like the car has anti-lag! Okay might not be to that extreme but that's the best example I can think off to explain what is happening.
It's been suggested to me that because I have altered the air intake system the car is drawing in too much air now and the MAF can't monitor it's enough to adapt the Fuel Settings? And to make matters worse I meant to be driving to Cornwall on holiday on Monday morning so I've now got to try and sort out a doner or hire car!!
In that case, refit the old induction system and see if that cures it
-
Interesting information regarding the Fuel trims but how would I go about seeing the figures to be able to advise you as to what they are?
Car came to a complete standstill on the A2 last night, misfire got so bad that the car was struggling to run and pull its own weight up a slight hill. Its seriously over fuelling as well, I drove roughly 20 or so miles last night and managed to use just over a quarter of a tank! It's popping and banging on gearchange almost like the car has anti-lag! Okay might not be to that extreme but that's the best example I can think off to explain what is happening.
It's been suggested to me that because I have altered the air intake system the car is drawing in too much air now and the MAF can't monitor it's enough to adapt the Fuel Settings? And to make matters worse I meant to be driving to Cornwall on holiday on Monday morning so I've now got to try and sort out a doner or hire car!!
In that case, refit the old induction system and see if that cures it
You would need to change the Maf as well in order to completely prove.
I have used K and N before in Omegas and other cars including my Cossie, never had any issues at all, but I do tend to keep the Filters quiet dry' ish.
-
Chris the K&N was fitted straight from the box, was oily but not excessively
-
Interesting information regarding the Fuel trims but how would I go about seeing the figures to be able to advise you as to what they are?
If you have an Android phone get a bluetooth OBD adapter (Bluetooth OBD (http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=bluetooth+obd2+android&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=28639833900&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11176464499505746758&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_49lm43dd2r_b))for about £15 and download the pro version of ScanMyOpel (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ScanMyOpel.Main) from the google play store (£6.99)
If you have an Apple phone it won't work with bluetooth so you would need a more expensive wireless/IP adapter. (I don't know what software is available for Apple but I am sure someone here will know)
-
Chris the K&N was fitted straight from the box, was oily but not excessively
You up my way at all this weekend Paul?
-
Interesting information regarding the Fuel trims but how would I go about seeing the figures to be able to advise you as to what they are?
If you have an Android phone get a bluetooth OBD adapter (Bluetooth OBD (http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=bluetooth+obd2+android&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=28639833900&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11176464499505746758&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_49lm43dd2r_b))for about £15 and download the pro version of ScanMyOpel (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ScanMyOpel.Main) from the google play store (£6.99)
If you have an Apple phone it won't work with bluetooth so you would need a more expensive wireless/IP adapter. (I don't know what software is available for Apple but I am sure someone here will know)
I have an iPhone but the woman has a Galaxy Pad so I'll use that, those Bluetooth OBD things reliable?
-
Chris the K&N was fitted straight from the box, was oily but not excessively
You up my way at all this weekend Paul?
Probably not mate as at work all weekend, why do you ask?
-
Chris the K&N was fitted straight from the box, was oily but not excessively
You up my way at all this weekend Paul?
Probably not mate as at work all weekend, why do you ask?
Could read the Codes with a cheapo reader, dont have many 3.2 spares but I need to put one of my 3.2's back on the road for Monday, dont mind temporally swapping Maf or other bits etc, to see if it helps.
All depends how often your fault pops up really.
-
Thanks Chris but to be honest I just won't have the time to be able to get up to you and I'm not sure I really want to drive the car any amount of distance for fear of breaking down or making any potential problems worse
-
Interesting information regarding the Fuel trims but how would I go about seeing the figures to be able to advise you as to what they are?
If you have an Android phone get a bluetooth OBD adapter (Bluetooth OBD (http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=bluetooth+obd2+android&tag=googhydr-21&index=aps&hvadid=28639833900&hvpos=1s1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11176464499505746758&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_49lm43dd2r_b))for about £15 and download the pro version of ScanMyOpel (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ScanMyOpel.Main) from the google play store (£6.99)
If you have an Apple phone it won't work with bluetooth so you would need a more expensive wireless/IP adapter. (I don't know what software is available for Apple but I am sure someone here will know)
I have an iPhone but the woman has a Galaxy Pad so I'll use that, those Bluetooth OBD things reliable?
There are lots available. All seem to be made in China. Some are stupidly cheap and don't work reliably.
The one I bought cost about £15 and does work. The best advice I can give is to read the reviews of the product & vendor before you place your order.
-
Cheers Andy, I did just all that on Amazon and found quite a good one for under £10 which is now winging its way to my home
-
Thanks Chris but to be honest I just won't have the time to be able to get up to you and I'm not sure I really want to drive the car any amount of distance for fear of breaking down or making any potential problems worse
No worries mate, offers there if you change your mind. ;)
-
Just had the codes read, there was:
P0100 - Not detected
P0110 - Not Present
P0420 - Intermittent
P0170 - Intermittent
P0173 - Intermittent
Also watched throttle pedal and the % were accurate enough for the foot position but the load was showing idle then straight to Full Load at low to medium pedal position %'s
Anyways codes cleared and car took for a short run, misfire still persists so left car to be looked at while I'm on holiday next week.
-
Just had the codes read, there was:
P0100 - Not detected
P0110 - Not Present
P0420 - Intermittent
P0170 - Intermittent
P0173 - Intermittent
Also watched throttle pedal and the % were accurate enough for the foot position but the load was showing idle then straight to Full Load at low to medium pedal position %'s
Anyways codes cleared and car took for a short run, misfire still persists so left car to be looked at while I'm on holiday next week.
P0100 Mass or volume air flow circuit high input
P0100 Mass or volume air flow circuit low input
P0100 Mass or volume air flow circuit range/performanceProblem
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0170 Fuel trim malfunction (Bank 1)
P0173 Fuel trim malfunction (Bank 2)
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
All points to MAF imo. Was the odd engine load reading with the engine running? That would be an extra pointer to the MAF being fubar.
-
OK the P0100 and P017x (all should show on pedal test, BTW) point to a buggered MAF, and the trims cannot compensate enough for it (based on the feedback from the lamdas).
Shove the original airbox/filter back on, and a known good MAF, reset the trims (or clear the codes, which will reset trims), and run it like that for a few weeks to ensure it behaves. Then consider putting the K&N back on if you really want to, though personally I wouldn't.
-
*Slight update...
I'm still on my hols but my mechanic had reported that a replacement MAF has been fitted, car is still almost undriveable! All codes cleared and no new ones are being produced which is bloody odd!! And very frustrating! 😩
-
*Slight update...
I'm still on my hols but my mechanic had reported that a replacement MAF has been fitted, car is still almost undriveable! All codes cleared and no new ones are being produced which is bloody odd!! And very frustrating! 😩
Have the long term fuel trims been reset? (I think TB said that clearing the codes reset the trims but not certain :-\)
-
Everything has been cleared AFAIK, BTW this is only a generic code reader like a Snap-On device
-
Everything has been cleared AFAIK, BTW this is only a generic code reader like a Snap-On device
Hmm. Maybe, maybe not, then. I think the fuel trim tables get lost if you disconnect the battery on these, so it might be worth trying that. Disconnect and leave off for half an hour or so. :y
-
*Slight update...
I'm still on my hols but my mechanic had reported that a replacement MAF has been fitted, car is still almost undriveable! All codes cleared and no new ones are being produced which is bloody odd!! And very frustrating! 😩
Replacement. New? Used? Genuine Gm?
-
*Slight update...
I'm still on my hols but my mechanic had reported that a replacement MAF has been fitted, car is still almost undriveable! All codes cleared and no new ones are being produced which is bloody odd!! And very frustrating! 😩
Replacement. New? Used? Genuine Gm?
No idea Chris, like I said I'm on holiday in Newquay currently so I'll find out more over the weekend upon my return.
Kevin - I'll disconnect battery also and try that 👍
-
Everything has been cleared AFAIK, BTW this is only a generic code reader like a Snap-On device
Hmm. Maybe, maybe not, then. I think the fuel trim tables get lost if you disconnect the battery on these, so it might be worth trying that. Disconnect and leave off for half an hour or so. :y
Just about to go and collect the car - if i can get it home, i'll disconnect the battery and leave over night to see if it clears the fuel trim tables
-
Car won't even run now! >:( >:( >:(
-
Car won't even run now! >:( >:( >:(
Wont run or wont start? any new codes since it was cleared?
-
Fires but struggles to run, runs briefly but then stalls.
Going to try my old coilpacks tomorrow even though they have started to break down
-
Any Relay or Throttle Body clicking when it stalls?
Is it pissing Fuel?, pop the fuel feed left off below Penlium (19mm one from Memory)
Did you get around to checking the below (Highlighted)?
Im trying to picture in my mind what would cause your sudden stopping (being slammed forward) during a miss fire, without any braking involved, the only thing I can think off is your miss fire is total Ing. fail (no spark on all pots), or as Al's thinking, total Fuel fail, although I would have thought enough fuel pressure left in the system to run it down rather than a complete cut out. May be not if being hammered.
I wondering if its worth checking and re installing the 2 ECU plugs and checking the main wiring connectors under the battery, you could also swap the purple relays over, see if that does anything (if was me I would pop the covers off and have a look at the relay contacts), and generally checking, wiring loom, pushing relays fuses in the box.
Other thoughts, ECU??, I have had 2 go now on 3.2's without fault codes, one intermittent, the other total fail over night. :-\
-
Fires but struggles to run, runs briefly but then stalls.
Going to try my old coilpacks tomorrow even though they have started to break down
Any Codes Paul first.
-
Fuel pump?
-
To recap - we don't know if the long term trims have been cleared, you have a new MAF fitted, engine runs like poop.
What does it do with the MAF disconnected?
-
Ok, just got back home with the car after a mission trying to get it to fire up.... Had a chat with my mechanic friend who confirmed that he had used a spare MAF with the same part No that he had in his box of odds'n'sods but the car ran the same with this fitted so he refitted the old one.
Had to jump the car as the batt was low, managed to get the car to start but it would not rev at all and idled really badly (make a machine gun noise with your tongue, it sounded like that!) After a few minutes it seem to settle and idle but wouldn't rev at all, so i unplugged the MAF and suddenly it revs like it should - freely!
So jumped in after letting it idle for 10 or so minutes (thankfully I only live four streets away from him) and pulled away, but no such luck! Car was misfiring again, couldn't pull its own weight and kept wanting to die so i was forever dipping the clutch, coasting so the engine would idle then building the revs up and bringing the clutch in to get some momentum.
Managed to get back to mine but it seems the issue still persists! I think i'll get another MAF from ECP for piece of mind and cross that off the list, i'll also disconnect the battery tonight to clear those fuel thingies and also get any codes, should there be any!
My only issue is while i'm doing all these things with the advice from you guys i am really in way over my head, I know the main dealer wouldn't have a clue and my local garage has done all they can with the experience they have.... Should i be looking at a specialist who would deal with mapping & ECU issues?
-
Should i be looking at a specialist who would deal with mapping & ECU issues?
Maybe - the difficulty is finding someone who knows the Omega as well as the key people on OOF.
I think you have more than one issue which means that the fault finding requires an even more methodical approach than normal.
The symptoms described in your last post sound like a classic fuel starvation issue so fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator and pipework all need to be checked and proven before being discounted.
-
Ok, just got back home with the car after a mission trying to get it to fire up.... Had a chat with my mechanic friend who confirmed that he had used a spare MAF with the same part No that he had in his box of odds'n'sods but the car ran the same with this fitted so he refitted the old one.
Had to jump the car as the batt was low, managed to get the car to start but it would not rev at all and idled really badly (make a machine gun noise with your tongue, it sounded like that!) After a few minutes it seem to settle and idle but wouldn't rev at all, so i unplugged the MAF and suddenly it revs like it should - freely!
So jumped in after letting it idle for 10 or so minutes (thankfully I only live four streets away from him) and pulled away, but no such luck! Car was misfiring again, couldn't pull its own weight and kept wanting to die so i was forever dipping the clutch, coasting so the engine would idle then building the revs up and bringing the clutch in to get some momentum.
Managed to get back to mine but it seems the issue still persists! I think i'll get another MAF from ECP for piece of mind and cross that off the list, i'll also disconnect the battery tonight to clear those fuel thingies and also get any codes, should there be any!
My only issue is while i'm doing all these things with the advice from you guys i am really in way over my head, I know the main dealer wouldn't have a clue and my local garage has done all they can with the experience they have.... Should i be looking at a specialist who would deal with mapping & ECU issues?
Another Known Good Maf would help to rule out Maf issues, or could be if your maf is oil'ed up its still working but giving inaccurate signals, may be the ECU has tried to learn from it, and didn't wont to play ball with your mates Maf, or that could be faulty also.
Did you check the Fuel flow feed? when did you last check spark plug condition.
As said leave the Batt off over night or diss the 2 ECU Plugs.
Wouldn't go down the specialist ECU route just yet, could be putting a red herring into the equation and wont be cheap!, although I have suggested possible ECU issue, easiest way would be to do a ECU swap out (10 min job with Key Chips and Immobiler ECU), shame you not a bit closer Paul. :-\
-
Should i be looking at a specialist who would deal with mapping & ECU issues?
Maybe - the difficulty is finding someone who knows the Omega as well as the key people on OOF.
I think you have more than one issue which means that the fault finding requires an even more methodical approach than normal.
The symptoms described in your last post sound like a classic fuel starvation issue so fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator and pipework all need to be checked and proven before being discounted.
I appreciate the Omega is a bit of a niché but i'd like to assume that the problems i'm having would be shared, to a certain extent but other model Vauxhalls...? No?
The frustrating part in all this is the time factor, living on my own, working 5 days a week and i have my daughter the other 2 days of the week - getting outside to work on the car is practically impossible so taking the easy option of getting a garage to do the work is very appealing, but no doubt costly.
I'll try to check those items highlighted in the morning, the car had a new fuel pump 2/3 years ago and when the pump went before, it just went and left me stranded!
I have a Bluetooth OBD connector arriving anyday soon which will be a great help!
-
Another Known Good Maf would help to rule out Maf issues, or could be if your maf is oil'ed up its still working but giving inaccurate signals, may be the ECU has tried to learn from it, and didn't wont to play ball with your mates Maf, or that could be faulty also.
Did you check the Fuel flow feed? when did you last check spark plug condition.
As said leave the Batt off over night or diss the 2 ECU Plugs.
Wouldn't go down the specialist ECU route just yet, could be putting a red herring into the equation and wont be cheap!, although I have suggested possible ECU issue, easiest way would be to do a ECU swap out (10 min job with Key Chips and Immobiliser ECU), shame you not a bit closer Paul. :-\
I'll price up a new MAF tomorrow but i cant afford to be replacing stuff willy-nilly, I'll end up going down the same route as the bloody DTi :o :(
Battery is now disconnected, I'll go pull the ECU plugs too just to be sure!
Spark plugs are new but i suppose checking them will show which cylinders are not playing ball!
-
Don't know if it would help, but I have a spare known good MAF if you need to borrow one :y
-
Another Known Good Maf would help to rule out Maf issues, or could be if your maf is oil'ed up its still working but giving inaccurate signals, may be the ECU has tried to learn from it, and didn't wont to play ball with your mates Maf, or that could be faulty also.
Did you check the Fuel flow feed? when did you last check spark plug condition.
As said leave the Batt off over night or diss the 2 ECU Plugs.
Wouldn't go down the specialist ECU route just yet, could be putting a red herring into the equation and wont be cheap!, although I have suggested possible ECU issue, easiest way would be to do a ECU swap out (10 min job with Key Chips and Immobiliser ECU), shame you not a bit closer Paul. :-\
I'll price up a new MAF tomorrow but i cant afford to be replacing stuff willy-nilly, I'll end up going down the same route as the bloody DTi :o :(
Battery is now disconnected, I'll go pull the ECU plugs too just to be sure!
Spark plugs are new but i suppose checking them will show which cylinders are not playing ball!
That was the whole idea of a meet up Paul, so you didn't have to go down that route.
As expressed earlier I have a fully working, faultless 3.2 Manual Ex Thames Valley Estate sitting here. Not suggesting for one minute that you can help yourself to parts willy nilly, but we can go through a typical diagnostic routine, read and clear codes with the potential to swap parts one by one (and back again) to eliminate possible sensors or causes, with the view that the part or parts you need to replace is going to sort the issue.
-
Appreciated Chris, but with a car that won't move under it's own power without wanting to conk out it's an option I can't even consider mate.
-
Appreciated Chris, but with a car that won't move under it's own power without wanting to conk out it's an option I can't even consider mate.
Ok Paul, I'll give you a shout tomorrow with some other possibilities, but wont be able to do anything this week or next weekend due to personal and other issues, if that helps, but not too sure what your time scales are?
Have your Mobile number from way back, if its changed Txt or pm the new No. as need some shut eye now. ;)
-
Hi guys, hope you're well.
Don't want to come here and be like ''could be this, could be that'' etc.
However one thing that hasn't been mentioned which, for a misfire of such magnitude, can I ask has a compression test and/or cylinder leakage test been done?
in this situ it would give me some piece of mind to know that I'm definitely chasing a fuel, air or spark issue as opposed to an issue with the block or heads.
-
Can we get some live data or trouble codes from the engine ECU?
If it's really struggling to run you have a problem that's common to all cylinders, IMHO. Ignition / coil pack / compression issues would affect a single cylinder and cause it to run but with a misfire.
Complete lack of go suggests to me that it's MAF / Crank sensor or a basic fuel supply problem (pump, filter or pressure regulator).
-
Wonder if the purge valve has failed :-\ is there a hiss when the filler cap is opened? If there is, try starting it with the cap off...
Tech2 should be able to show purge valve function, if it has stuck open you might get a vacuum back to the tank :-\
-
Can we get some live data or trouble codes from the engine ECU?
If it's really struggling to run you have a problem that's common to all cylinders, IMHO. Ignition / coil pack / compression issues would affect a single cylinder and cause it to run but with a misfire.
Complete lack of go suggests to me that it's MAF / Crank sensor or a basic fuel supply problem (pump, filter or pressure regulator).
How would i go about doing that Kevin?
-
Wonder if the purge valve has failed :-\ is there a hiss when the filler cap is opened? If there is, try starting it with the cap off...
Tech2 should be able to show purge valve function, if it has stuck open you might get a vacuum back to the tank :-\
Usual rules apply, no-one in Kent with a Tech2 and the car won't move very far under its own steam to be able to get it to Kevin for instance
-
Can we get some live data or trouble codes from the engine ECU?
If it's really struggling to run you have a problem that's common to all cylinders, IMHO. Ignition / coil pack / compression issues would affect a single cylinder and cause it to run but with a misfire.
Complete lack of go suggests to me that it's MAF / Crank sensor or a basic fuel supply problem (pump, filter or pressure regulator).
Fair comment Kev,
Timing out perhaps? That obviously would also affect all
-
Wonder if the purge valve has failed :-\ is there a hiss when the filler cap is opened? If there is, try starting it with the cap off...
Tech2 should be able to show purge valve function, if it has stuck open you might get a vacuum back to the tank :-\
Usual rules apply, no-one in Kent with a Tech2 and the car won't move very far under its own steam to be able to get it to Kevin for instance
You can unplug it to rule it out electrically... This will produce a code so might be best to leave it plugged in. It can also be physically disconnected it by removing the larger of the two centre pipes on the breather bridge. Simply pull the hose off and plug the nozzle on the breather bridge. Leave the hose unblocked and the valve plugged in.
If you try any free checks and report back, then items can be ruled out. At some point it will need plugging in to see what is actually going on, even if that means arranging a mutually convenient time to get it plugged in to a tech 2 by someone who knows how to use it...
-
And its......... FIXED!! 8)
Place your guesses here, you'll never get it!! ::)
It had nothing to do with ANY of the replies or ideas of what the issue could of been, also she's running spot on as well which says that all the mods I've done under the bonnet have no issue with the running of the engine :o :D ;D
-
And its......... FIXED!! 8)
Place your guesses here, you'll never get it!! ::)
It had nothing to do with ANY of the replies or ideas of what the issue could of been, also she's running spot on as well which says that all the mods I've done under the bonnet have no issue with the running of the engine :o :D ;D
Cam Belt Broke...(again)
-
And its......... FIXED!! 8)
Place your guesses here, you'll never get it!! ::)
It had nothing to do with ANY of the replies or ideas of what the issue could of been, also she's running spot on as well which says that all the mods I've done under the bonnet have no issue with the running of the engine :o :D ;D
Cam Belt Broke...(again)
Huh? My cambelt has never broken mate! But your wait is over..... Finally got the laptop fired up!! Sorry for keeping you all hanging on :D
Well after all the its this, its that, try this, try that it turned out to be......
A STONE!!!! About 3-5mm in size!! :o >:( :o :-(
Basically said stone had found its way into the fuel tank, sat in the swirl pot in the tank directly under the pump. When the car was idling or pootling around it was fine as the pump was drawing enough fuel to pick the stone up and cause any issues BUT when i drove at my normal 'Ar$e is on fire' manner the fuel pump was under more load creating more suction and drawing the stone up into the pump and blocking the impeller?
When the garage found the problem there was a massive amount of swarf sitting directly below the pump and the pump itself was buggered! The stone had chewed up the insides of the pump and really was having serious issues trying to draw fuel up, so a new pump, filter and the tank removed, drained and cleaned out and now all is good!! Well chuffed!! But the downside was the agro with 3 different garages in the first place, various costs with the intial 2 garages, being fobbed off by the Main Stealer (And them busting my BNIB manual gearstick I'd recently just fitted) and then the final bill!! Inc the culprit of Mr Stone....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0603/billycabrio/Vauxhall%20Omega%20Estate%20V6/EDF328F9-4ABF-4E69-B7AE-22CF8664CD23_zpsqlww2h75.jpg)
So, Omegatron is BACK to her happy old self! 8) :y 8) :y 8) :y 8) :y 8) :y 8) :y
-
Good job that garage, I reckon.
Who'd have guessed at a stone? ;D
-
A 3.2 ECU is intelligent enough to create cylinder misfire codes if ignition problems cause a misfire, unlike the 2.5/3.0. :-\
Which is why I didn't say loom, as that definitely generates codes...
Another thought, is the fuel light on/less than 1/4 tank :-\ what speed are you doing when this happens? Accelerating?
Top of the red to run out is about 5 miles at full chat :-X and fuel starvation is about the only thing which won't put a light on...
I tought similiar but once started fuel starvation problems wll show very frequently and you can easily guess
I still think the ignition feed is cut completely for some reason :-\
::) the oscar goes to.. ;D ;D ;D
I think we have an unusual case in OOF history, dirty fuel tank ;D
glad to hear you sorted :y
but 208£ for work :o its eye watering.. :(
-
£52/hr is pretty reasonable for garage work here, Cem.. a main dealer for a prestige marque could easily be twice that!