Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Jim on 21 August 2014, 16:24:44
-
What is the full engine oil capacity of 3.2 V6 2002 Elite Saloon Auto
-
What is the full engine oil capacity of 3.2 V6 2002 Elite Saloon Auto
You've had a V6 how long? ................ and now you're asking how much oil!!!! :o :o ;D
-
6 litres :y
http://images.omegaowners.com/documents/UserGuides/OmegaOct2002.pdf page 230 :y
-
What is the full engine oil capacity of 3.2 V6 2002 Elite Saloon Auto
You've had a V6 how long? ................ and now you're asking how much oil!!!! :o :o ;D
I knew it was around 5.5 or 6 litres'ish, I just couldn't remember exactly ;D ;D
-
"a shade over 5l" if doing and oil and filter change. Based on my experiences of ignoring the Haynes BoB
-
"a shade over 5l" if doing and oil and filter change.
+1
with oil change 5l goes in easily, and then jus need to keep an eye on the dipstick, as goes down with a bit of driving, and top up accordingly at most 2/10 of a litre to get it upto halfway of the dipstick again.
-
Get about 5.5 in mine.
Takes just over 5L then run the engine for a couple of mins, wait 5 mins and top up again.
-
Leave mine to drain down for several hours when doing oil/filter change and on refill takes 5.25ltrs then after a short drive and on level ground normally get a further 0.5 ltrs to bring up to full mark on dipstick...5.75ltrs seems the capacity of my 3.2
-
Mine doesn't give much change from 6 litres... not sure if the far superior spin on filter makes a difference or not :-\
-
5.75 I thought. If doing filter as well, all topped up, run and checked.
But you'll need 6litres to buy.
-
Mine doesn't give much change from 6 litres... not sure if the far superior spin on filter makes a difference or not :-\
Is conversion from this paper filter nonsense a simple task?
-
Yup :y hardest bit is trying to figure out which fixing was used to hold the old housing to the block... either a 14mm hex or a 23?mm bolt.
Takes all of five mins, but the thread needs to be perfectly clean/degreased/dry to allow the thread lock on the threaded tube to set in the block :y
Guide here...
Fitting the far superior oil filter (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90579.0)
-
Thanks :y Looks like the connector is NLS.
Now I'm really not looking forward to changing the filter. :-\ Never had to contend with this mickey mouse cheese-metal canister type before. :P
-
Thanks :y Looks like the connector is NLS.
Now I'm really not looking forward to changing the filter. :-\ Never had to contend with this mickey mouse cheese-metal canister type before. :P
Easy enough to get an engineering firm/someone with a lathe to reverse engineer one/several :y
-
Apart from the tendency for the alloy cap to glue itself on if oil changes are left too long, there really is no difference.
In fact, assuming in doesn't stick, I prefer the metal cap with paper filter, as you can wiz the cap off with an air ratchet, which due to the length of the air ratchet means your arms are not up in the gubbins getting coveted in oil. ...so much ;D
-
Whereas you can change the spin on with barely a drop escaping ::)
-
Whereas you can change the spin on with barely a drop escaping ::)
Really? Teach TB that trick could you. When ever I see him change the (rusty bullet ?) oil he ends up drinking most of it ;D
Iirc rusty has spin on, superior Elite has paper.
-
Apart from the tendency for the alloy cap to glue itself on if oil changes are left too long, there really is no difference.
I'm gonna give up before I start I think. :( ;D
-
Whereas you can change the spin on with barely a drop escaping ::)
Yeah, and there's a certain je ne sais quoi about the satisfaction of spinning a nice new filter on until it mates with the block... mmm yeahhh :D
-
Whereas you can change the spin on with barely a drop escaping ::)
Yeah, and there's a certain je ne sais quoi about the satisfaction of spinning a nice new filter on until it mates with the block... mmm yeahhh :D
Have to agree with that! When they first thread up and you they spin a few turns on their own. mmmmmmmmmmmmm.
-
Whereas you can change the spin on with barely a drop escaping ::)
Really? Teach TB that trick could you. When ever I see him change the (rusty bullet ?) oil he ends up drinking most of it ;D
Iirc rusty has spin on, superior Elite has paper.
Thing is, with the spin on you can have the new filter, seal greased ready, to hand so that you simply spin the old one off, quick wipe of a rag and spin the new one on. Job jobbed.
Cartridge type, eventually get the cap unscrewed, whilst it drains down your arm, remove old filter, clean cap, replace old seal with new oiled one, fit new filter, get back under car, lie down in the puddle of old oil, clean the housing and reassemble. That sounds like fun... Not ;D
-
Ah, but you assume the new spin on will actually spin on. I've had new spin on filters, Mann and other cheap shite admittedly , where the filter threads are buggered from new.
Usually having had to puncture the thing with a screw driver to get it off for want if the correct tool. Where as the canister cap is the original thread and has no need for any other tool than a socket to remove it. :)
-
Only use genuine filters, and never had to butcher a spin on that I have fitted to remove it...
That said I never had a problem with the cannister type... My issues with it being the mess and the faff of unscrewing/refitting the cap. Not everyone has an air ratchet ;D
-
What do you use to undo them? ;)
-
Spin on by hand, cannister half inch ratchet :y
-
When folk bring me their cars to do services and I've worked on them before the canister ones are great cos I know I can just spin them off by hand.
However, I've had some that are done up so tight and with nothing to grip on to have been a pain getting off. And yeah the screw driver method works but I don't like it.
Why do some people tighten them to within an inch of breaking? :-\
-
Spin on filter fitted/removed by hand, cartridge cap with a half inch ratchet :y
Edited for clarity :y
-
When folk bring me their cars to do services and I've worked on them before the canister ones are great cos I know I can just spin them off by hand.
However, I've had some that are done up so tight and with nothing to grip on to have been a pain getting off. And yeah the screw driver method works but I don't like it.
Why do some people tighten them to within an inch of breaking? :-\
Having just done my neighbour's VW Golf, some spanner monkey had done the spin-on up so tight that the welded nut on the end of the case sheared off, and I had difficulty getting it off with the chain wrench, and nearly had to resort to the screwdriver for the first time in xx years! Also the sump plug (30Nm) was on so tight I had to use an extended torque wrench. How the thread wasn't sheared I don't understand. >:( :y
-
When folk bring me their cars to do services and I've worked on them before the canister ones are great cos I know I can just spin them off by hand.
However, I've had some that are done up so tight and with nothing to grip on to have been a pain getting off. And yeah the screw driver method works but I don't like it.
Why do some people tighten them to within an inch of breaking? :-\
Having just done my neighbour's VW Golf, some spanner monkey had done the spin-on up so tight that the welded nut on the end of the case sheared off, and I had difficulty getting it off with the chain wrench, and nearly had to resort to the screwdriver for the first time in xx years! Also the sump plug (30Nm) was on so tight I had to use an extended torque wrench. How the thread wasn't sheared I don't understand. >:( :y
I swear they must use a buzz gun >:(
My mums Ford was on so tight I took it over to 4x4 and we ended up chiselling it round it was that tight >:(
-
Ive used one of these for over 20 yrs to remove tight filters :)
Chain strap (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Easy-Oil-Filter-Remover-Removal-Tool-Chain-Strap-Wrench-Silverline-/130482239488?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e6158f800)
-
Can't say I have an issue with the canister type, just unscrew the lid until it starts to dribble and ensure you have your washing up bowl (or if your posh, oil drain pan) underneath and leave it to drain, when it stops just wind it off a little more.
-
Ive used one of these for over 20 yrs to remove tight filters :)
Chain strap (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Easy-Oil-Filter-Remover-Removal-Tool-Chain-Strap-Wrench-Silverline-/130482239488?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e6158f800)
What I have, but still had trouble!
-
Why the flip couldn't they have made the square key in the middle of the canister cap a 1/2 " sq drive? The awkward buggers. >:(
-
Why the flip couldn't they have made the square key in the middle of the canister cap a 1/2 " sq drive? The awkward buggers. >:(
Been discussed on here before - using that square usually splits the lid if it's tight, far better to use a socket :y
-
I currently own 2 Omegas, one of each type.
I prefer the paper element type over the spin on, as its less messy - crack the seal, let it drain straight down into a container for a few seconds, wipe, remove.
The spin-on, the oil runs down the block, onto the webbing, then randomly runs across the engine, subframe and steering rod, and drips everywhere, esp if you have only jacked up one side.
Rather than convert the paper element to the spin on type, I'm more likely to do the opposite... ...but it doesn't bug me enough to warranty the work.
Gixer and Tax Al - I've had a faulty GM spin on filter before, although I'd always try to use GM oil filters as they give less grief than many of the pattern ones... ...and cheap on TC as well.
-
I always raise the front of the car, either on ramps (if the bumper is off for summat), or on axle stands. My drive has a bit of a slope on it, and raising the front enough to have access means the car ends up level :y
That said, you can almost change a spin on filter from above...
-
Having owned and serviced countless vehicles over the years I've never had " 1. Go buy 24mm Hex Impact socket " at the top of my Saturday to do list. ::)
and " 2. Have angle grinder plugged in ready for when the red mist descends " ;)
-
I always raise the front of the car, either on ramps (if the bumper is off for summat), or on axle stands. My drive has a bit of a slope on it, and raising the front enough to have access means the car ends up level :y
That said, you can almost change a spin on filter from above...
I noticed that once i had arm full of oil lying underneath ::)
-
Having owned and serviced countless vehicles over the years I've never had " 1. Go buy 24mm Hex Impact socket " at the top of my Saturday to do list. ::)
and " 2. Have angle grinder plugged in ready for when the red mist descends " ;)
Neither have I. ;)
-
Having owned and serviced countless vehicles over the years I've never had " 1. Go buy 24mm Hex Impact socket " at the top of my Saturday to do list. ::)
and " 2. Have angle grinder plugged in ready for when the red mist descends " ;)
Neither have I. ;)
Both sound perfectly reasonable to me! Having the gas-axe handy has its moments too.
-
Having finally aquired a suitable 24mm hex socket that won't chew the cheese metal cap... Now when significant torque is applied to the cap, the supposedly "captive" filter housing starts to rotate. Marvellous. ::)
Will the housing spin off completely if I keep going or will things just get ugly? ???
-
As the housing is held in place by a bolt inside it will just rotate and not come off .I believe there should be a notch of some sort to stop it turning probably broken off. Grip the body and unscrew the cap. Sounds easy :'(
-
I must've been 'lucky' with my proper paper element filter set-up then. I changed the oil every year / 5000 miles or so over about 85000 miles & never ever came close to having a problem with the filter body spinning :-\
Maybe I'm just better with spanners ::) ::)
-
Spin on filter anyone... ::)
-
Maybe I'm just better with spanners ::) ::)
Looks like we gotta ourselves a volunteer... ;D
-
Maybe I'm just better with spanners ::) ::)
Looks like we gotta ourselves a volunteer... ;D
But I never got to the stage of needing to hold the body ;) ;) ...... I managed to undo the cap ( & I admit to never using a torque wrench ::))
-
Maybe I'm just better with spanners ::) ::)
Looks like we gotta ourselves a volunteer... ;D
But I never got to the stage of needing to hold the body ;) ;) ...... I managed to undo the cap ( & I admit to never using a torque wrench ::))
I'll settle for you undoing the cap... I'll devise some means of preventing the body rotating *giggity* :y
-
...
I'll settle for you undoing the cap... I'll devise some means of preventing the body rotating *giggity* :y
I believe the tool of choice is a strap type filter remover :-\
-
...
I'll settle for you undoing the cap... I'll devise some means of preventing the body rotating *giggity* :y
I believe the tool of choice is a strap type filter remover :-\
I do have one, but I suspect it would mash a hole in the side of the can long before enough force was excerted to prevent rotation. (Ignoring the fact I don't have enough hands/strength to turn both in opposite directions at once :( )
-
....., but I suspect it would mash a hole in the side of the can long before enough force was excerted to prevent rotation. (Ignoring the fact I don't have enough hands/strength to turn both in opposite directions at once :( )
:( :( Oh! :( :(
-
Well, all's well that ends well. Spent some more hard earned cheese on a proper chain wrench instead of the nasty draper "can-opener" one I previously owned as well as an 18"
breaker bar torque wrench (it was cheaper) and attacked it whilst it was still warm/hot and it decided discretion was the better part of valour ;)
Oil filter was manufacture dated 03.2010 and the oil was like 15w40 soy sauce ::)
-
....
Oil filter was manufacture dated 03.2010 and ....
It'll have been sat on a shelf somewhere ....... ::) ;)
-
....
Oil filter was manufacture dated 03.2010 and ....
It'll have been sat on a shelf somewhere ....... ::) ;)
Indeed... until at least... May 2010 ;D ;D *ahem*