Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: VXL V6 on 04 September 2014, 13:19:40
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Quick questions for those with LPG installs.
I'm planning to install the vapouriser on the O/S inner wing where the aux pump used to reside (I believe this is where most have put it), I haven't got the kit as yet but wondered how this is fixed? Can you utilise the studs that are present on the inner wing?
Running the power feed to the ECU (planning to mount it where the self leveling pump currently resides) whats the best route for those wires? I'm a little concerned that running them around the slam panel area will cause them to go brittle over time with the heat from the radiator and condensor.
Diag connection - has anyone extended the lead and run it into the cabin fuseboard area? Just want to keep it tidy?
Injector loom - presumably the neatest way to do this is too graft the two looms together removing the piggy back connectors and original loom injector connectors and soldering them together.
TIA
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They generally have a single bolt fixing which is fitted through from the wheel arch...
No reason why you couldn't fabricate a bracket to fit the existing mountings, but be careful not to get too close o the engine as it's about exhaust manifold level and the engine does move :y
Bolting to the wheel arch directly does ensure that the vaporiser is as far from the exhaust as possible :y
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On my first install I used one if those spare studs, it failed inspection. A no no as they aren't solid enough, which made sense tbh. Drill a hole, weather proof it, bolt it up, spray with under seal from the wheel arch side.
Running the diag port I a good idea and one I've considered but not implemented. It would help greatly if your having set up issues. Although might be a waste of time if all goes well.
Loom I ran in front if the the rubber fans (?) seal directly behind the slam panel. It's forward of heat flow although does get some residual heat from the metal work. There isn't enough slack to run it in front if the rad iirc plus there's the concern over accidental damage. Loom plug can pass through the holes in the body under the air box without issue.
Injector loom, one for the electrical experts. I never bothered as the time taken to connect up the loom is equal (or longer ? ) to that taken to install it without. Although being more electrically qualified it's probably going to swing it back in favour. :y
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I'm planning to install the vapouriser on the O/S inner wing where the aux pump used to reside (I believe this is where most have put it), I haven't got the kit as yet but wondered how this is fixed? Can you utilise the studs that are present on the inner wing?
I didn't. The vapourisers generally have a threaded hole or two on the back and I just added an extra hole in the wing to bolt it up. You can also use a bracket, but unless you fabricate something yourself I'd say that mounting clearance is limited enough that it's unlikely that you'll be able to re-use an existing stud.
Running the power feed to the ECU (planning to mount it where the self leveling pump currently resides) whats the best route for those wires? I'm a little concerned that running them around the slam panel area will cause them to go brittle over time with the heat from the radiator and condensor.
Mine runs across the front of the radiator under the slam panel and has caused no issues.
Diag connection - has anyone extended the lead and run it into the cabin fuseboard area? Just want to keep it tidy?
Not tried this but it should be feasible. It's only RS232 so it should cope with a wire of that length OK.
Injector loom - presumably the neatest way to do this is too graft the two looms together removing the piggy back connectors and original loom injector connectors and soldering them together.
Yep, get another pair of the multiway connectors that connect the injector loom to the main loom and wire these to the LPG ECU, then you can just plug and play.
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On my first install I used one if those spare studs, it failed inspection. A no no as they aren't solid enough, which made sense tbh. Drill a hole, weather proof it, bolt it up, spray with under seal from the wheel arch side.
Eh?
How does a welded stud mounted on the structural inner wing not meet the requirements when compared to a cheap tat Chinese nut n bolt?
Weird
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On my first install I used one if those spare studs, it failed inspection. A no no as they aren't solid enough, which made sense tbh. Drill a hole, weather proof it, bolt it up, spray with under seal from the wheel arch side.
Eh?
How does a welded stud mounted on the structural inner wing not meet the requirements when compared to a cheap tat Chinese nut n bolt?
Weird
This is UKLPG we're talking about. Common sense not required here. ;)
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On my first install I used one if those spare studs, it failed inspection. A no no as they aren't solid enough, which made sense tbh. Drill a hole, weather proof it, bolt it up, spray with under seal from the wheel arch side.
Eh?
How does a welded stud mounted on the structural inner wing not meet the requirements when compared to a cheap tat Chinese nut n bolt?
Weird
This is UKLPG we're talking about. Common sense not required here. ;)
No, I don't agree, think it through chaps. The vap has to be solidly mounted. Those are the rules.
So how do you mount a vapourisor on a single stationary welded in stud? Spin it on? The thread is too small so you use a bracket that involves using two or more studs. So unless your using 8mm flat bar it will flap about, and add leverage with all the pipes hanging off it to those studs.
I wasn't happy with the original mounting point and the tester pointed it out. I have to say, while I agree with Kevs view on the uklpg generally, I agreed with the tester fully on most of his observations, including this one, it has to be said.
Look at the weight of the original items that are heald by those studs. Although some are unused, they are not designed to take that amount of weight.
The studs are too far back anyway. It makes adjusting the vap pressure tricky against a hot exhaust manifold. And for Andy, the engine needs to up to temp to set it up correctly. ;)
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VXL V6 - if you're passing, you're more than welcome to poke about under my bonnet... ...or if not in a hurry, I could swing past some time :)
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Cheers TB
I don't think I'm likely to get started on the LPG until the Christmas break. Unfortunately 3 MOTs a tax disc and jobs to do before the MOTs sees my budget spent for the next couple of months.
I thought I might try and get hold of the front end stuff in December and start mounting bits and bobs slowly.
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I took some pictures of my install for B4ndit a few weeks back.
If you pm me a email address, i'll send them to you
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Cheers, on it's way :y
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When fitting the vap, do so with the Allen key fitted in the adjuster nut, IMO, so you can see how much access is available, and what will burn your hand, or hopefully not. ;)
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When fitting the vap, do so with the Allen key fitted in the adjuster nut, IMO, so you can see how much access is available, and what will burn your hand, or hopefully not. ;)
Okey Dokey....
I'll have loads of questions soon I'm sure!
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In fact, next question - Is the grommet that allows you to feed the wires into the cabin for the gauge and buzzer the one that sits just behind the brake servo?
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In fact, next question - Is the grommet that allows you to feed the wires into the cabin for the gauge and buzzer the one that sits just behind the brake servo?
Yep.
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Was that originally the throttle cable routing :-\ or is there a second, larger grommet to the right of it?