Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: mantaray on 13 September 2014, 18:37:12
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I'm looking for your opinions, please.
I have a 1999 2.5 TD manual Omega that is starting to need a few bits sorting out on her.
1: Central locking not working properly . (Micro switches I hope)
2: Drivers door strap has snapped the weld and need welding back in place.
3: Injector seals need replacing
4: Front D/S top bearing is shot, and could possibly do with new shocks and springs as the car has done 173000 mile and feels a little squishy .
5: Body work is starting to look a bit shabby, could do with a bit of TLC.
6: What to chip it.
Now I reckon that do sort out all the bits, I'm looking at around the £1000 mark. My question is, do I spend the money on the Omega or get rid and buy something newer to replace it?
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I guess depends how bad the body is, as the rest should be straightforward and fairly cheap...
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It's the paint work really. Has a lot of scratches, a scrap on the drivers side rear wheel arch and half the black bump strip needs replaceing. Oh and the P/S mirror cover has a chunk missing.
I do like the Omega, and there are not meny estate car as big, they all seem to have sloping rear windows now a days which I don't understand as you are loosing half your carring space. But is it worth spending £1000 on a 14 year old car?
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You could spend a thousand in another car and still have to spend out on it. A case of out the frying pan? Surely spending on what you have now will give you a car that will stay as reliable as it obviously has been?
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My advice, if your budget can stretch to it, is find the nearest to last (2003) Omega built that has the lowest mileage with great service history. Then use your old Omega as a part exchange if, buying from dealer, to get the price down by even couple of hundred.
I believe in the long term that is your best option. But remember all Omega,s are now on a life expired path and only the best will be left on the road. It is all about economic viability, and that must be the equation facing you now with your current car :y
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I'm looking for your opinions, please.
I have a 1999 2.5 TD manual Omega that is starting to need a few bits sorting out on her.
1: Central locking not working properly . (Micro switches I hope)
2: Drivers door strap has snapped the weld and need welding back in place.
3: Injector seals need replacing
4: Front D/S top bearing is shot, and could possibly do with new shocks and springs as the car has done 173000 mile and feels a little squishy .
5: Body work is starting to look a bit shabby, could do with a bit of TLC.
6: What to chip it.
Now I reckon that do sort out all the bits, I'm looking at around the £1000 mark. My question is, do I spend the money on the Omega or get rid and buy something newer to replace it?
Worth a read if i have read no 6 correctly.
http://www.autoinform.co.uk/knowing-when-to-stop/
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I'm looking for your opinions, please.
I have a 1999 2.5 TD manual Omega that is starting to need a few bits sorting out on her.
1: Central locking not working properly . (Micro switches I hope)
2: Drivers door strap has snapped the weld and need welding back in place.
3: Injector seals need replacing
4: Front D/S top bearing is shot, and could possibly do with new shocks and springs as the car has done 173000 mile and feels a little squishy .
5: Body work is starting to look a bit shabby, could do with a bit of TLC.
6: What to chip it.
Now I reckon that do sort out all the bits, I'm looking at around the £1000 mark. My question is, do I spend the money on the Omega or get rid and buy something newer to replace it?
1. Microswitches about £1.50 each from RS : http://uk.rs-online.com/web/
2. Welding? PM Serek near you, won't be expensive.
3. Injector seals? About £8.00 each
4. £500 should get you a reasonable set of each.
5. Bodywork. name your price. ;D ;D ;D
6. Chip, about £70 for full fat version. Contact TB.
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I'm looking for your opinions, please.
I have a 1999 2.5 TD manual Omega that is starting to need a few bits sorting out on her.
1: Central locking not working properly . (Micro switches I hope)
2: Drivers door strap has snapped the weld and need welding back in place.
3: Injector seals need replacing
4: Front D/S top bearing is shot, and could possibly do with new shocks and springs as the car has done 173000 mile and feels a little squishy .
5: Body work is starting to look a bit shabby, could do with a bit of TLC.
6: What to chip it.
Now I reckon that do sort out all the bits, I'm looking at around the £1000 mark. My question is, do I spend the money on the Omega or get rid and buy something newer to replace it?
Worth a read if i have read no 6 correctly.
http://www.autoinform.co.uk/knowing-when-to-stop/
Doesn't apply to the TD which was detuned in the VX Omega to please BMW who supplied the lump. They would not have wished it to have been compared favourably to their own vehicles with the same engine.
I have been running the full fat chip for at least 5 years with no problems. :y
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I can confirm, even in auto format, a chipped tractor is so much more drivable then the GM software. Quite a hoot, yet not massively quick or fast (never got more than 125mph from mine, but then my private road isn't long enough ::)). But the power delivery is so much better.
Not talking mental chips here, just back to BMW spec, or just a little bit more. Due to the torque, though, it will wipe out an AR25 autobox quite quickly (Omegatoy's wife holds the record, 96 miles IIRC), and if you have too much fun, rear tyres (I hold the record, 4k from a set of Avon ZV3s ::))
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I can confirm, even in auto format, a chipped tractor is so much more drivable then the GM software. Quite a hoot, yet not massively quick or fast (never got more than 125mph from mine, but then my private road isn't long enough ::)). But the power delivery is so much better.
Not talking mental chips here, just back to BMW spec, or just a little bit more. Due to the torque, though, it will wipe out an AR25 autobox quite quickly (Omegatoy's wife holds the record, 96 miles IIRC), and if you have too much fun, rear tyres (I hold the record, 4k from a set of Avon ZV3s ::))
...which can be easily swapped for the more robust AR35 as fitted to the bigger V6 engines. :y :y :y
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Right going to put her in for mot and see just what she fails on, then re-access. been looking on web at something newer and not impressed, expencive and high milage comes to mind.
thanks for your input, I'll keep you informed.
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Think Chirs is able to do all the work needed i would thinks its more to do with spare time, hey Chris :y
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Well put her in for MOT today, she did fail but not on what I thourght. :-[
There is play in the n/s steering idler arm so that will need replaceing, but I am wondering if the idler arm bracket will also need changeing or is it just the idler arm bush that wares ?
The only other things it failed on were front dics, so pritty good me thinks. Looks like i'll be keeping her for at least another year. :D
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Just the arm itsellf :y guide hereaboots :y
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Omega now has a nice new MOT. ;D
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Nicely done :y