Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 27 September 2014, 13:54:10
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Question ( can hear Taxi Al sighing ::) ;D)
If for arguments sake i feel my 0-60 tests (on my friends' private track aren't convincing me) and I wanted to test EXACTLY my car's power would the above be the best option? E.g. instead of me saying ''oooh it FEELS lacking'' or ''oooh it FEELS powerful''.
And would they be able to highlight where in the rev range there's a lack / enhancement of power?
As I've never been / seen / done one is there any forewarning things I should know about? Are they expensive? There a good franchise company that would be an option etc etc.
And finally if they say ''Right Mr. Bear, your car's producing 150bhp'' then due to the cars age is the drop off from original 170 expected due to age, or should it be there or thereabouts?
:)
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Sigh :P
Not worth the time of day... unless you are looking to tune it. In which case, you would have runs done before and after, using the same machine, with the same operator and ideally the same temperature and humidity.
And call me cynical, but if the people who run the dyno have any involvement with the actual tuning, then expect an improvement in the before/after figures as they will want to make their magic smoke look good, even if the car drives like a bag of poo afterwards :-\
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Sigh :P
Not worth the time of day... unless you are looking to tune it. In which case, you would have runs done before and after, using the same machine, with the same operator and ideally the same temperature and humidity.
And call me cynical, but if the people who run the dyno have any involvement with the actual tuning, then expect an improvement in the before/after figures as they will want to make their magic smoke look good, even if the car drives like a bag of poo afterwards :-\
Ok, fair enough Al. May I ask why you think that? Surely it would be concrete evidence?
And no tuning intended (just checking stock performance)
:y
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Dyno'ing an Auto is always a waste of time. I'll save you a few quid......
Think of a number of horses you would like your car to have,
Halve it,
Ta Da!!!!!! ;D
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Dyno'ing an Auto is always a waste of time. I'll save you a few quid......
Think of a number of horses you would like your car to have,
Halve it,
Ta Da!!!!!! ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Ooooooook! lol
The reason I ask.
The car has definitely improved. And yesterday took it for a blast and wow thought it was a new motor. Drove it todayand it seems fast in some places and not so in others. But I know it's not tangible to keep coming on here saying ''I think its down on power''.
I'm considering lending it to TB to see what he thinks........ :-X ;D
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Unless the dyno is properly calibrated and in a controlled environment, then it will only be an approximate guess as to what is going on tbh...
It will give you a torque curve and a power curve which will resemble reality. But in the main, 'public' dynos are usually set to flatter both the car owner and the tuner :-\
The TB school of testing is probably the most reliable benchmark wrt Omegas :y
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Not worth the time of day... unless you are looking to tune it.
This.
Dyno'ing an Auto is always a waste of time. I'll save you a few quid......
And this.
There are so many ways to fiddle the results and so many muppets running rolling roads that it's a waste of time, IMHO. On a well calibrated set of rollers with a decent, honest operator, they might be useful to tune an engine for best power or to make comparisons before and after. To get an absolute power figure to compare with the manufacturer's spec, they are simply not accurate enough, IMHO. Much more so when the operator is trying to fight an automatic gearbox.
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Ok, thanks for input boyos
Wondering where that leaves me then.........
As said previously, its like a flat spot between 2k and 4k rpm.
Still got a hiss at the vacuum boxwhich is great (when I pull top hose off) but also still got a hiss at engine shut off.
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Book a dyno session at jamsports near mataland and halfords,that will tell you power and torque.
Tweed road its on half way down on right
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Ok, thanks for input boyos
Wondering where that leaves me then.........
As said previously, its like a flat spot between 2k and 4k rpm.
Still got a hiss at the vacuum boxwhich is great (when I pull top hose off) but also still got a hiss at engine shut off.
Imo, step 1, remove the large vac pipe connection from the side of the plenum and examine the whole length for holes. Unless done already...?
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Dyno'ing an Auto is always a waste of time. I'll save you a few quid......
Think of a number of horses you would like your car to have,
Halve it,
Ta Da!!!!!! ;D
+1 :y
Take it to TB and ring its neck :P ;D
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Question ( can hear Taxi Al sighing ::) ;D)
If for arguments sake i feel my 0-60 tests (on my friends' private track aren't convincing me) and I wanted to test EXACTLY my car's power would the above be the best option? E.g. instead of me saying ''oooh it FEELS lacking'' or ''oooh it FEELS powerful''.
And would they be able to highlight where in the rev range there's a lack / enhancement of power?
As I've never been / seen / done one is there any forewarning things I should know about? Are they expensive? There a good franchise company that would be an option etc etc.
And finally if they say ''Right Mr. Bear, your car's producing 150bhp'' then due to the cars age is the drop off from original 170 expected due to age, or should it be there or thereabouts?
:)
Driver only, and with just a small amount of petrol in the tank, my 2.6 MV6 reached 60 MPH in 8.53 seconds......taking 136.92 metres.
Dead flat road....do discernable wind. :y
Two up and with a full tank of petrol it is lucky to break 10 seconds. :-\
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Ok, thanks for input boyos
Wondering where that leaves me then.........
As said previously, its like a flat spot between 2k and 4k rpm.
Still got a hiss at the vacuum boxwhich is great (when I pull top hose off) but also still got a hiss at engine shut off.
Imo, step 1, remove the large vac pipe connection from the side of the plenum and examine the whole length for holes. Unless done already...?
Yep, done already Chris. Well, not removed but gave it a good feel.
The leak sounds like it's from plenum but obviously that's not conclusive.
And we know the new vac box has helped and is now working.
But still the hiss at shut off suggests another leak.
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Ok, thanks for input boyos
Wondering where that leaves me then.........
As said previously, its like a flat spot between 2k and 4k rpm.
Still got a hiss at the vacuum boxwhich is great (when I pull top hose off) but also still got a hiss at engine shut off.
Imo, step 1, remove the large vac pipe connection from the side of the plenum and examine the whole length for holes. Unless done already...?
Yep, done already Chris. Well, not removed but gave it a good feel.
The leak sounds like it's from plenum but obviously that's not conclusive.
And we know the new vac box has helped and is now working.
But still the hiss at shut off suggests another leak.
Plenum seated correctly....? No trapped o rings? ....although that would be audible while running.
Can secondary air or other gubbins hiss after shit off.
Edit. Or even after shUt off ;D
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Ok, thanks for input boyos
Wondering where that leaves me then.........
As said previously, its like a flat spot between 2k and 4k rpm.
Still got a hiss at the vacuum boxwhich is great (when I pull top hose off) but also still got a hiss at engine shut off.
Imo, step 1, remove the large vac pipe connection from the side of the plenum and examine the whole length for holes. Unless done already...?
Yep, done already Chris. Well, not removed but gave it a good feel.
The leak sounds like it's from plenum but obviously that's not conclusive.
And we know the new vac box has helped and is now working.
But still the hiss at shut off suggests another leak.
Plenum seated correctly....? No trapped o rings? ....although that would be audible while running.
Can secondary air or other gubbins hiss after shit off.
Edit. Or even after shUt off ;D
Hahahahaha
Presumably a quick test would be to pull the SAI fuse?
Would a hissing SAI contribute to power loss? Or just thinking of things that it could be? Thinking about it it can't have a contribution but definitely worth ruling out.
Wondering if all o rings and intake gaskets ned replacing. I dunno
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Ok, let's start with a list of things to check with power loss . . .
Repair any exhaust leaks. Have a slight one.
Multiram vac leak
Vac leaks in intake manifold
Scanner - trouble codes
Exhaust blockage - CAT performace with live data. Infrared thermometer (outlet to be hotter than inlet)
Clean air filter
Fuel pressure and fuel regulator
Fuel filter change (can i blow through old one easily?)
Engine timing correct . . . This will be spot on I know
MAF output on scan tool
Oil in plug wells
Compression test
Coil pack failed
Leads
Plugs
So, humouring me. . . . It's one of these right? wot else?
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Dyno'ing an Auto is always a waste of time. I'll save you a few quid......
Think of a number of horses you would like your car to have,
Halve it,
Ta Da!!!!!! ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Ooooooook! lol
The reason I ask.
The car has definitely improved. And yesterday took it for a blast and wow thought it was a new motor. Drove it todayand it seems fast in some places and not so in others. But I know it's not tangible to keep coming on here saying ''I think its down on power''.
I'm considering lending it to TB to see what he thinks........ :-X ;D
Stop pissing about Webby,just stick a 3.0 donkey in and be done with it :D ;)
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Webby, I have tested auto omegas on dynos ,mine and friends.. dynos cant measure them properly ..
a stock 14 year old 2.5 auto can be measured easily above 200 hp :o ;D ;D ;D which is not correct..
dont waste your money and time.. and remember if you modify it, autobox will eat most of the power increase :-\
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Ok, let's start with a list of things to check with power loss . . .
Repair any exhaust leaks. Have a slight one.
Multiram vac leak
Vac leaks in intake manifold
Scanner - trouble codes
Exhaust blockage - CAT performace with live data. Infrared thermometer (outlet to be hotter than inlet)
Clean air filter
Fuel pressure and fuel regulator
Fuel filter change (can i blow through old one easily?)
Engine timing correct . . . This will be spot on I know
MAF output on scan tool
Oil in plug wells
Compression test
Coil pack failed
Leads
Plugs
So, humouring me. . . . It's one of these right? wot else?
Bore wear, poston ring wear, valve seats not sealing....loss of compression etc...
Change atf fluid.
Change diff fluid.
Brakes not binding.
Minimise drag on aux belt components.
Regular oil changes with lifter treatment.
.....and no hissing. ;)
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Thanks Chris exactly what I thought.
And thanks cem. . . . There's no point doing a dyne clearly.
Can I pull this SAI fuse to test?
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Thanks Chris exactly what I thought.
And thanks cem. . . . There's no point doing a dyne clearly.
Can I pull this SAI fuse to test?
Normal thing to do with sai is pull the loom plug off the unit. Reach up from under the car, front, right rear of rad as you look at it.
But if the gubbins is leaking, it won't matter of on or off. It only runs shortly after start up.
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Thanks Chris, tbh there is a relay in the fuse box . . . :)
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If you're going to disconnect the SAI, you might as well remove as much of it as possible, and block the ends of the pipes at the exhaust manifolds. All the pipes running across the front of the engine take a lot of space; removing them makes maintenance easier.
There's a load of gubbins behind the bumper, and I bet the air filter on the end of it is utterly knackered.
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If you're going to disconnect the SAI, you might as well remove as much of it as possible, and block the ends of the pipes at the exhaust manifolds. All the pipes running across the front of the engine take a lot of space; removing them makes maintenance easier.
There's a load of gubbins behind the bumper, and I bet the air filter on the end of it is utterly knackered.
Just for testing at the moment mate. I can just remove the relay, right?
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Waste of time Mr bear.
With the auto you need to be able to lock the torque converter up when its in top,so tech 2 needed.
If its for pub bragging tell them its got 250bhp and goes like stink,and the injection system is race developed, ;D
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Waste of time Mr bear.
With the auto you need to be able to lock the torque converter up when its in top,so tech 2 needed.
If its for pub bragging tell them its got 250bhp and goes like stink,and the injection system is race developed, ;D
Thanks mate :y
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If you're going to disconnect the SAI, you might as well remove as much of it as possible, and block the ends of the pipes at the exhaust manifolds. All the pipes running across the front of the engine take a lot of space; removing them makes maintenance easier.
There's a load of gubbins behind the bumper, and I bet the air filter on the end of it is utterly knackered.
Just for testing at the moment mate. I can just remove the relay, right?
Well, removing relay did nothing. . . . . Except set on my CEL ;D