Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: kcl on 30 September 2014, 10:30:37
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I know most of you have the steering on the wrong side but still I hope someone could help me. I'm removing the steering box to replace it. Have read through TIS which says to remove
- ECU/fuse box (done)
- ABS unit (no, not really, do I have to...)
- brake servo (which I do not believe)
- aircon pipes (which I'd like to avoid until it's imperative).
So far I have the box bolts off the frame, connection to steering wheel open, box is moving forward but still far, far away from coming off. Next step is to remove ABS unit. What I need to take care of? Does it have to be bled afterwards and is this "TECH2 only" -job? AC pipes I do not care, some gas will leak out but I won't be telling anyone... Any hints what to do, what parts are needed to come off and which parts are unnecessary to remove, although mentioned in TIS?
When I have the box out I will be replacing leaking AC compressor seals and possibly do the exhaust manifold gasket as I suspect it's leaking and I will now have room to do it. Anytjing else that should be done at hte same time?
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Sounds much more awkward than removing the box from a right hand drive car. Are you SURE yours is fitted on the correct side? ;) ;D
Abs bleeding is defo tech 2 job. Can it be moved aside with carefull pressure on the metal brake lines....?
I remember removing servo just to give room, and that the brake light switch broke on removal. Vey easy done as the tangs snap off. Best to have a spare if possible.
But all on a right hand drive obviously.
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You should be able to ease the ABS unit up quite a bit with the pipes still attached thus avoiding having to bleed the setup after.
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Sounds much more awkward than removing the box from a right hand drive car. Are you SURE yours is fitted on the correct side? ;) ;D
Abs bleeding is defo tech 2 job. Can it be moved aside with carefull pressure on the metal brake lines....?
I remember removing servo just to give room, and that the brake light switch broke on removal. Vey easy done as the tangs snap off. Best to have a spare if possible.
But all on a right hand drive obviously.
I have no yet even seen the brake light switch, where is it? By the pedal? No? On the ABS box?
If i disconnect the ABS box will it get air in it? E.g. when renewing brake lines you open connections and can replace the pipes without any issues, how will this change when ABS box is out? Of course it will be emptied but still, as long as the pump does not run I can not see air getting inside?
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You should be able to ease the ABS unit up quite a bit with the pipes still attached thus avoiding having to bleed the setup after.
Coming to think of it you are right, the pipes from master cylinder to ABS unit are flexible so I might be able to lift it enough...
Last night I thought it would be easier to lift the lump out first than to tackle the box out with engine in >:(
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Sounds much more awkward than removing the box from a right hand drive car. Are you SURE yours is fitted on the correct side? ;) ;D
Abs bleeding is defo tech 2 job. Can it be moved aside with carefull pressure on the metal brake lines....?
I remember removing servo just to give room, and that the brake light switch broke on removal. Vey easy done as the tangs snap off. Best to have a spare if possible.
But all on a right hand drive obviously.
I have no yet even seen the brake light switch, where is it? By the pedal? No? On the ABS box?
If i disconnect the ABS box will it get air in it? E.g. when renewing brake lines you open connections and can replace the pipes without any issues, how will this change when ABS box is out? Of course it will be emptied but still, as long as the pump does not run I can not see air getting inside?
Switch is up behind the pedals. If removing servo, it has to be disconnected from the pedals which means disturbing the switch.
As Marks post, see if you can move the pump out the way WITHOUT removing brake lines from the pump. No need for tech2 then.
But if brake lines removed ther WILL be air in the system. If air is pre abs pump it will need bleeding.
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Sounds much more awkward than removing the box from a right hand drive car. Are you SURE yours is fitted on the correct side? ;) ;D
Abs bleeding is defo tech 2 job. Can it be moved aside with carefull pressure on the metal brake lines....?
I remember removing servo just to give room, and that the brake light switch broke on removal. Vey easy done as the tangs snap off. Best to have a spare if possible.
But all on a right hand drive obviously.
I have no yet even seen the brake light switch, where is it? By the pedal? No? On the ABS box?
If i disconnect the ABS box will it get air in it? E.g. when renewing brake lines you open connections and can replace the pipes without any issues, how will this change when ABS box is out? Of course it will be emptied but still, as long as the pump does not run I can not see air getting inside?
Switch is up behind the pedals. If removing servo, it has to be disconnected from the pedals which means disturbing the switch.
As Marks post, see if you can move the pump out the way WITHOUT removing brake lines from the pump. No need for tech2 then.
But if brake lines removed ther WILL be air in the system. If air is pre abs pump it will need bleeding.
Thanks. I will not be taking the servo out. No. Unless I have to... No, I dont have to... Hope so.
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Ok, got the job done. Not according to TIS. No photos, thought they'd not help you because you have the gubbins on the other side, but this is generally what I did:
- Fuse box and ECU out-->would not have had to but I did because TIS told so and at that point I thought it is best to follow TIS
- PAS reservoir out
- steering axle bolts off from cabin side
- ABS unit heat shield off to get to the screw holding the unit
- ABS unit screw off (this did not help much/at all)
- Steering box bolts from chassis off
- at this point I tried, and tried, and tried but the thing would not fit to come out
- left hand downpipe off
- left hand exhaust manifold off (dead easy, most difficult part was to get heat shield out. all screws and nuts came off very easily)
- at this point it looked like progress. I've got a block heater installed and it is partly on the way but decided not to take it out because I don't have the seals to re-seal it and did not want to get coolant out (it pour litres from the block when opened...)
- oil filter was the last obstacle, removal of the lid only did the job. After that the box came out.
I also think I have finally found the cause of my "sometimes stiff steering"; as some may remember I had this blind spot only when cold etc. Top bearing of the main shaft, just below the lid where the adjustment screw is, is very badly worn. Why, I have no idea, but the bearing is very, very worn. It rattles when rotating it with fingers. All balls inside box were ok, main screw looks intact, other bearings are fine, PAS side of the box looks ok, all oil vains are clear etc. So, I might salvage this by putting in a new bearing but then I do not have any idea how to adjust the basic play in the box so I will be putting in a second hand unit.
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Adjusting the box is easy if you've just done all that lot.
But MUST be done with steering box and column aligned together correctly, and dead ahead. Or it will go horribly wrong. But if aligned then the tightest point of adjustment can be felt on the torx screw with wheels off the floor while moving the steering.
At that point, back it of a tiiiiiiiny fraction and do up the lock nut. Seemples.
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Ps. There is a mark on the box input shaft to help alignment with the column/the flat face either side if the column/and the flexi joint that connects them both.
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Adjusting the box is easy if you've just done all that lot.
But MUST be done with steering box and column aligned together correctly, and dead ahead. Or it will go horribly wrong. But if aligned then the tightest point of adjustment can be felt on the torx screw with wheels off the floor while moving the steering.
At that point, back it of a tiiiiiiiny fraction and do up the lock nut. Seemples.
Thanks. But still I think I'll end up with better result putting a second hand unit in rather than trying to repair the old one. Seems that also the other needle bearing is done, the one deeper inside. I only wonder why. Only less than 200 000 km on the clock when the symptoms started :-\ Could this be due wrong PAS fluid? Someone has used DEX3 in the past?
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Looking to buy a 2nd hand box to replace the worn one. Are they all the same on V6 cars, facelift/ prefacelift?
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Looking to buy a 2nd hand box to replace the worn one. Are they all the same on V6 cars, facelift/ prefacelift?
Ok, I had asked this alo in the past and the assumption was that they're all the same if fitted with servotronic
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I would have thought any '98+ v6 box would be fine :-\
Lhd obviously...
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I would have thought any '98+ v6 box would be fine :-\
Lhd obviously...
That's what I think also. Any with electrical connector and from V6 will do?
SOmeone with EPC could check what difference is between 9 227 769 and 9 227 771? Google said that first part is for without variable assist, latter being for variable assist; both ones have the solenoid on them?
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I think the servotronic ECU config depends on the steering box, so best to swap the ECU for the one that was with the box on the donor car if possible.
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I think the servotronic ECU config depends on the steering box, so best to swap the ECU for the one that was with the box on the donor car if possible.
Thanks! :y Where exactly is the servotronic ECU located? Problem is that I only have the replacement steering box, not the "new" ECU, nor can have it... :-\
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Finally got the replacement box. The steering wheel side is somewhat different :-\ The original has a "bowl" around the in-going shaft and this part is alu-alloy, this "new" does not have the "bowl" and part is steel cast. Not going to make any difference installing, just wonder why...
Got stuck, new one has the steering arm on it which won't budge, my car has the arm attached to steering rods and that one is not coming off, my ball-joint tools won't fit there :-\ Nice :y
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Tried an air hammer? ( if you have a compressor) air hammer and splitter together should split the joints.
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Tried an air hammer? ( if you have a compressor) air hammer and splitter together should split the joints.
Ain't got air hammer... And using one worries, if I split the rubber on the joint :-\ Will try
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Remove the nut and give it a smack either side with two hammers simultaneously :y
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Remove the nut and give it a smack either side with two hammers simultaneously :y
Old trick, will try, but I dont think it'll work because there is no tension on th epart... But I will remove it tonight! And put new box in and start assembling it, hoping to have it ready till Sunday to get sons motorbike in the garage 8)
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Might be too late, but is it worth a pic of the old and new box differences you mentioned?
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No, not too late. Could not get the "new" arm off the new box, nor the old from the car. Will have to cut the old out during the weekend.
Here is a pic of the difference, new on left, original on right:
(http://i7.aijaa.com/t/00912/13541813.t.jpg) (http://aijaa.com/zasxEB)
Also pic from the shot bearing, which is assumed to be the original fault:
(http://i11.aijaa.com/t/00629/13541829.t.jpg) (http://aijaa.com/mEtFOE)
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Not sure I've ever heard of anyone getting the pitman arm off the box. :o
Re the top pic, is there a seal or something missing from the old cap. Looks like there should be something in there....? :-\
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Not sure I've ever heard of anyone getting the pitman arm off the box. :o
Re the top pic, is there a seal or something missing from the old cap. Looks like there should be something in there....? :-\
TIS instructs to take the arm off the box :-\ And it was far easier to get it off the box under the car than to take arm off the center tie rod.
Seal is the black part visible in the old housing. Just the rubber boot comes on that part, I mean the rubber that seals it to the firewall. Nothing missing. Seems that only this rubber sits further/deeper in the old part. Overall dimensions are the same.