Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Diamond Black Geezer on 02 October 2014, 13:44:14
-
Well, knowing that there'll be (hopefully) a fair bit of progress on my baby over the next few weeks, I thought I might as well start a thread dedicated to the journey.
OK, so to start with she's a 1996 P Reg Omega CDX 2.5 V6 in Diamond Black. Been in the family for a decade, originally owned by my father. For 7 years she's been laid up, after the crank sensor failing and then DIS pack blowing, due to leaking gaskets. Since then it's always been my dream to get her up and running, under my ownership. A spell living away and being unemployed, then unpredictable work, plus living in a town you can walk across in half an hour make running a 1.6 ton V6 barge not massively feasible.
Exhibited at Billing every year she once got a 'commended' but as she was (I think) the only vehicle in daily use up for judging, and some doing less than 100 miles between MoTs, I don't think she did too bad :). Due to a couple of mods she was once incorrectly named in an issue of the Straight Six News as an Elite(!)
So, a brief incomplete list of the mods/work done then...
-Elite eleccy rear blind
-Elite Leather door cards
-MFL rear griffin/boot handle
-Elite MFL alloys
-FL clear side lenses
-Blanked EGR
-Perfect front bumper (Transit rolled back at traffic lights and cracked the paint. Repainted by the same people that 'de-blemish' ALL brand new VAG/Toyota Group cars that enter the country via Immingham.)
After the DIS Pack blowing, my father had to get a replacement car double quick, which is when he bought the TD (Turbo Weasel) which I've now bought off him and driving (he now has one of them new fangled plastic Insignias :D ) and so she was laid up. :'(
A year ago the Turbo Weasel died due to him pouring approx 4 litres of water into the air intake system. So we considered reviving the V6. Genuine VX gaskets were fitted, breathers cleaned. Brakes freed off and serviced. (all relevant parts were always coppergreased, and were no harder to work on than if we'd done them a week ago - not 6 years!) Nothing else was apparent that a short-term bodge wouldnt fix, and we were just about to refit the wipers when bad news the Garage had fixed the Turbo Weasel! NOO!! :y So, she was 90% there for an MoT but again, laid up. :'(
So a few weeks ago, I bought the car at the only price of £170.
Which brings us to the present day. She is now sat, exhaustless, on axle stands, lathered in dust, one flat tyre, not a single matching wheel (the mint Elite wheels were sold some years ago, sadly :'( ) scuttle and wiper arms off but the following has now been done these last couple of weeks...
-Exhaust sourced, used 6 month old as job lot of...
Exhaust
SC804 (two of!) and Autochanger
Bumper grilles (open type - off Diesel)
MFL Elite Grille with mesh, but included original chroem 'V' and chip cutter (and the following which I don't need, but they may well save my bacon one day)
Climate Centre console
Radiator
Full set of Tail Lamps
Engine hoses
-Exhaust clips (Genuine VX)
-Manifold to Cat section nut (Genuine VX)
-Exhaust clamps
-Paint - silver and VHT Silver
-Set of stainless steel nuts n bolts for exhaust and heat shields
-Heat Shields ('reserved' simply awaiting reply off fellow OOFer :y)
Excluding purchasing the car all the above has cost me a pint of Guinness over £100, so I think I'm doing pretty good so far.
No pics as yet, but will try and get some uploaded tonight. the first 'before' shots, so to speak :y
-
Sounds good. :y
Look forward to the photos as you make progress.
-
Here she is! Poorly! :-[ but after seeing a Carlton GSi 3000 recently restored on here, I was inspired!
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1160_zps757dfdd9.jpg)
Set of heat shields, some more worse for wear....
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/7970ea0c-6e59-4aaa-8a8f-01905e93b14e_zps63b8fd1f.jpg)
as you see here...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1164_zps947ee4dc.jpg)
and now some improvement...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1172_zpsbbc315f8.jpg)
So for future reference to anyone reading this thread - the heat shields are held on with small (M6?) studs and nuts, which rot and tend to shear when you take them off. As I have a plan for their replacement, I deliberately started to shear them off the bodywork, though four or five did come off ok, as it happens.
The heat shields appear to be an alloy coated steel, which has shown excellent corrosion-resistance, when you consider the state of wishbones after 5 years, compared with these after 18. Where applicable I've left this coating on, only using angle-grinder +flap wheel on the rusty bits. They have now been given a good coat of VHT silver paint, which is actually nothing like the original finish, it looks more like grey flock(!) but you're not going to replicate the original finish, should look smart, and cost £6.50.
-
And the exhaust that's going on is here, bought from an ex-member off here just up the road from me for the princely sum of £20!
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1155_zpsa506c070.jpg)
To give you an idea of the state of the old exhaust... well, erm.... :o
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/129bd58b-17e8-4496-976f-98cbd8d271c7_zpsb8130f46.jpg)
-
You are at similar stage to me with the heat shields :) I was just going to put them back on in the condition i took them off .. good idea to clean them up and spray in vht paint , so i will too ;) Carpets will come out for de burring , i could have easily pop riveted the shields back on but sods law they will need to come off again in future ::) Good project , keep going its looking good :y
-
Yes, been following progress with the 'sheared bolts' thread, strangely posted at almost the same time I posted my question. I understand you're going to try the rivnut method? I'm actually going for the stainless steel nut n bolt route. So hopefully some nice comparisons.
Extra note - these took three treatments in a fairly agressive oven cleaner to get all the grease off, and I'll freely admit I'm not sure I got all of it off. Felt a little guilty not giving them quite the same level of prepping as I would an exterior body panel, but then realised that who else bothers to actually de-rust and repaint their heat shields? So any amount of flap-wheeling and repainting is surely better than nothing?
Looking forward to the comparison between our shields and how we've fitted them. Read this morning another OOFer's Garage just glued his one back on after the studs sheared - something he only found out some time later, of course!
Extra-extra note - you'll need to remove some shields if at any point the handbrake needs adjusting replacing (if memory serves, which it frequently doesn't :D) so well worth the extra time rather than pop riveting. Going to try fitting some bolts tonight, so long as they arrive off ebay today!
-
Yes, been following progress with the 'sheared bolts' thread, strangely posted at almost the same time I posted my question. I understand you're going to try the rivnut method? I'm actually going for the stainless steel nut n bolt route. So hopefully some nice comparisons.
Extra note - these took three treatments in a fairly agressive oven cleaner to get all the grease off, and I'll freely admit I'm not sure I got all of it off. Felt a little guilty not giving them quite the same level of prepping as I would an exterior body panel, but then realised that who else bothers to actually de-rust and repaint their heat shields? So any amount of flap-wheeling and repainting is surely better than nothing?
Looking forward to the comparison between our shields and how we've fitted them. Read this morning another OOFer's Garage just glued his one back on after the studs sheared - something he only found out some time later, of course!
Extra-extra note - you'll need to remove some shields if at any point the handbrake needs adjusting replacing (if memory serves, which it frequently doesn't :D) so well worth the extra time rather than pop riveting. Going to try fitting some bolts tonight, so long as they arrive off ebay today!
Stand to be corrected BUT , im sure the adjuster can be got at without taking the shields off :-\ I was told that after i took them off >:( ;D I can see how but it would be very fiddly :(
-
Hmmm, yeah. I mean like the rear parcel shelf, for the want of a couple more studs, it's best to just take it out, (get to amp/BOSE etc) but other items you can get away with just drifting aside. I agree, I'd imagine very fiddly.
-
Nice little (or large) project you have here, I'll be following this thread myself with interest.
Keep up the good work and keep the photo's coming :y
-
Here's the heat shields, peoples :)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_11741_zps2d28aab6.jpg)
-
As you are going with the stainless nut and bolt method of refixing the heat shields, are your bolts long enough to consider putting the bolt through from the inside, bolting uo tight then fitting the heat sheild and putting on another nut so as to not require removing the carpets i the future if you ever need to remove the sheilds again DBG?
Keith B
-
As you are going with the stainless nut and bolt method of refixing the heat shields, are your bolts long enough to consider putting the bolt through from the inside, bolting uo tight then fitting the heat sheild and putting on another nut so as to not require removing the carpets i the future if you ever need to remove the sheilds again DBG?
Keith B
Good idea that ;)
-
As you are going with the stainless nut and bolt method of refixing the heat shields, are your bolts long enough to consider putting the bolt through from the inside, bolting uo tight then fitting the heat sheild and putting on another nut so as to not require removing the carpets i the future if you ever need to remove the sheilds again DBG?
Keith B
Hi there. Oh, yes, that has been considered. Though (in theory) they only have about 1mm of bodyshell to go through, I have got 45mm bolts. They are stainless, as opposed to zinc, meaning I can cut them shorter for looks/practicality/potential fouling on exhaust, without worry of bare mild steel slowly rusting on me. Pics uploaded later, but the sequence goes...
Bolt - penny washer - floorpan - gripwasher - nyloc nut - heat shield - washer - flanged nut
So the heatshield will have the depth of the nyloc nut - let's say 5mm - of gap from the floorpan, so slightly more than original. The plan is to start drilling holes in my baby tonight!
-
Yesterday's progress = Good!!
I've managed to fit four nuts and bolts... I know, doesn't sound much, but it's now at the point where I could probably write up a 'How To' including one or two very important pitfalls, where I nearly came a cropper.
The sequence of nuts and bolts, as described in the previous post..
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1187_zps52d866ff.jpg)
Here's some images showing
- hole drilled in the same place as the original snapped thread,
- bolt inserted, lathered in seam sealer,
- locknut fixed,
- and finally (just for show) the washer and flanged nut, which will hold the heatshield in place. But I popped them on so I didn't lose them.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1218-2_zps59ca09fa.jpg)
With some nice shiny stainless steel nuts, too, it should look pretty decent.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1222-2_zpsa85e1007.jpg)
Apologies for the shoddy quality of the picture. This was at midnight, and winning a photography competition wasn't at the forefront of my mind! :y
In other news I've
-acquired some MV6 springs (thank you Missy MV6),
-the replacement rear heat shields are on their way (thank you The Red Baron)
-and I found some patches of surface rust hidden by the heat shields, encroaching beneath the underseal. These are getting flap-wheeled to bare metal and lathered in seam sealer tonight as well as the other 50% of the the nuts and bolts fitted. Now I know what I'm doing this should go a little quicker. :)
-
Nice jobby :D Did you use nyloc nuts to tighten to the body :-\ I can see the last nut is nyloc :y
-
Shall be doing similar to my back box shield tomorrow... once I have riveted the upper part of my repair plate to the boot floor for a bit of extra strength... the epoxy gunge seems to have done the trick so far :y
Instead of drilling where the studs used to be I shall be aiming 1/4" forward so that the bolts all line up consistently with the minimum of fuss... that's the plan any road ::)
-
Nice jobby :D Did you use nyloc nuts to tighten to the body :-\ I can see the last nut is nyloc :y
Yes. As per the picture of the sequence of bolt - washer - nut etc... the nyloc nut goes direct to the body. To help that little more, there's a grip washer on the inside of the bodyshell. I'd advise having someone just to hold the bolt still as you tighten the nyloc. Though I did resort to the method of a 'socket & extension bar pinched with molegrips' which was allowed to rotate as I turned the nut until it hit something hard, whereupon I was then able to tighten the nut. As everyone had gone to bed :P
Those aren't coming undone any time soon, that's for sure! :y I'd imagine the seam sealer would act as a reasonable glue as well. Well 'gobboed' up inside, too.
-
Shall be doing similar to my back box shield tomorrow... once I have riveted the upper part of my repair plate to the boot floor for a bit of extra strength... the epoxy gunge seems to have done the trick so far :y
Instead of drilling where the studs used to be I shall be aiming 1/4" forward so that the bolts all line up consistently with the minimum of fuss... that's the plan any road ::)
The option was/is always there of course to drill just next to where the threads were. Certainly the last owner did that when fitting self-tappers. If I'm honest it added only 30 secs or so of grunting per hole by going through the last of the tough steel of the thread. I used a 1.5mm ish drill bit as a pilot hole, before moving to 6mm.
Also not forgetting that I snapped off the threads very close to the body, so hardly any old steel left to drill through. In one case the thread snapped, leaving a neat hole (happy days!), which just needed enlarging to 6mm, which took all of two seconds :y
-
Nice jobby :D Did you use nyloc nuts to tighten to the body :-\ I can see the last nut is nyloc :y
Yes. As per the picture of the sequence of bolt - washer - nut etc... the nyloc nut goes direct to the body. To help that little more, there's a grip washer on the inside of the bodyshell. I'd advise having someone just to hold the bolt still as you tighten the nyloc. Though I did resort to the method of a 'socket & extension bar pinched with molegrips' which was allowed to rotate as I turned the nut until it hit something hard, whereupon I was then able to tighten the nut. As everyone had gone to bed :P
Those aren't coming undone any time soon, that's for sure! :y I'd imagine the seam sealer would act as a reasonable glue as well. Well 'gobboed' up inside, too.
Hm im considering the way you have done it now :-\ When my health is a little better , nothing like rolling on the floor outside in the dirt to make you feel better ::)
-
Haha. Ahh well once I've finished them all, I'll be the country's premier expert on fitting stainless steel heat shield bolts... I could do a PHD in it :D
I'm just at the point now where I might be able to get it to my mate for this friday for pre-MoT (he's then going to tell me what's needed, and we'll work out what's best/cheapest together) It's already 3 weeks overdue from my original deadline :-[ but I've literally not had the time, been working every evening I can.
Basically there's only a couple of threads left that are original, the rest have snapped. So do I go that little bit further, snap them off and drill/install stainless on them, too? AT least then I'll never ever need to touch them again. Be a pain if the next time I need to remove a heatshield, the thread's rusted solid and I have to repeat this whole procedure again, seats out, carpets up, etc....
I think I've just answered my own question.
All parts available off heebay, or local hardware stall. All-in each 'fitting' comes in at approx 70p each.
-
OK, well if anyone's interested in me writing a complete 'How To' I'd be happy to. For now here's a little basic diagram/plan I've drawn up, so you can all visualise it a little better.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/Bold-Mod_zpsf06e6b6e.jpg)
No pictures of the complete finished article yet. I finished last night at gone midnight and it was just a little bit cold up the driveway! Will try and get a decent snap or two of all the bolts in place looking shiney :)
-
Basically there's only a couple of threads left that are original, the rest have snapped. So do I go that little bit further, snap them off and drill/install stainless on them, too?
I would , just snap them all off and re-do them ..mite as well while your enjoying rolling around in the dirt :D Ive forgotten what it looks like underneath , will have to dig some pictures out ..about 6 bolts to each heat shield without digging them out the shed if i remember :-\
-
They're already off and rolling around the driveway! :D
To chuck some OCD out there, the heat shields have...
6 x bolts front most
4 x bolts 2nd shield
4 x bolts 3rd shield
Just counting up now, as it may be I've missed fitting a nut/bolt somewhere along the way. It's not easy seeing the 'whole picture' when the car's so low(supported on spare wheels, so suppose that maker her 225mm high!)
-
Its a bit better with car ramps and axle stands , ive got a creeper to lay on ive not used yet so will try that out ..got to be better than the dirt and damp block paving :D Should be a doddle :D
-
I angle grinded some surface rust off the floorpan along the way. Though I might as well, since I had the Seam Sealer out. I have been called a creeper, but don't own a creeper. :y
Looking at the diagram I've drawn cross-checking it on the EPC I suspect I have missed one dead in the middle of the drive tunnel - where the two heat shields overlap. Have picked up a suitable nut and some more bolts today, as I'm running out.
Getting there! :y
-
So here's a little How To. Subject to a few modifications and pictures, I'll gladly then offer it to the Mods, who may wish to see it in the How To section, if we think it an improvement to our vehicles?
How To (subject to revision) Replacing Sheared Heat Shield Threads
4 x M6 50mm or 60mm bolts (may be part threaded)
9 x M6 x 40mm bolts (FULLY threaded)
13 x M6 nyloc nuts
13 x M6 normal or flanged nuts
13 x M6 large penny washers
13 x M6 smaller washers 20mm
13 x M6 grip washers
(The above total can be sourced off ebay for about £7 all-in)
2 x drillbits 1.5mm approx and 6mm and Drill
Small Socket set inc 10mm
Spanners
T40 Torx
Angle grinder with flap wheel
Seam Sealer (you'll only need about a shoepolish tin's worth :) )
Mole grips
For this guide, rather than describing the drilling and 'modding' of every hole, I've treat each one the same. The detail differences are dealt with in the Afterward section at the bottom.
The sequence of the fittings goes...
Bolt > large washer > grip washer > floorpan > nyloc nut > heat shield > small washer > flange nut.
You may wish to spend an evening in front of the TV making up these in order one evening before starting make up your 'fittings' in that order
1 Assuming the car is on ramps or jacked and on axlestands and safe (the higher the better for this particular job) etc...
2 Seats out (guide elsewhere). and peel carpets up. You may wish to take carpets out completely, but I didn't.
3 Find a sheared thread. Angle grind off remaining proud thread (if necessary)
4 Estimate where the drill will come through in the cabin, ensuring no carpet or sound deadening material will be damaged. Return underneath and drill your pilot hole as accurately to the centre of the old thread as possible. The angle grinding will have sped up drilling time significantly.
5 Return to the cabin, confirm the exit point, if all's well, back under and enlarge to 6mm hole.
6 Smear a decent coating of seam sealer both sides of the hole.
7 Insert bolt, large washer and grip washer from the top. Fit nyloc nut on the protruding thread under the car. Here you need a spanner and a mate to stop the bolt rotating as you tighen the nut. If you're on your own, other tricks include mole grips or a spanner, allowed to rotate with the bolt until they hit eg: the drive tunnel. Ensure nut is tightened with no chance of the thread spinning
8 Spin on washer and nut / just a flanged nut, so they don't go missing. These will be removed momentarily to refit heat shields.
9 Admire your handiwork. :D You will notice that having threads to help locate the heatshields on is a lot easier than holding a shield roughly in place with one hand, then trying to insert a self-tapper into a now-invisible hole.
Afterward
Most holes are treat the same, however, there are some slight differences between certain ones. Notably:
-The frontmost thread, the last one to point straight down before you head upward into the engine bay comes out DIRECTLY next to the WIRING LOOM. I say again - THE WIRING LOOM, located at the front of both front footwells. I strongly suggest lifting this up and rearward or 'chocking' it suitably out the way before drilling. If you drill through several of the car's vital systems I can not be there to help solder them back together! :y
-You will notice that you have a transverse box-section with four (two per side) threads. This is what the longer M6 x 50mms are for. Simply repeat the process as before, only drilling through both layers of steel. Ensure as good a smear of seam sealer inside the holes as best you can.
-In the case of the two opposite shields that share a single stud (image 2 below) I simply bolted them together, with a nut locking the bolt to the top shield. There is a bracket on the prop shaft; If you were to drill it out, then repeat the process as with the other bolts, this would be fine, too.
-You may find certain holes come out a little bigger for whatever reason. I'd say use your judgement in this situation if you think it worth putting an extra washer with the nyloc nut to prevent the nut being pulled into the floorpan on tightening. Also some heat shields will require a further washer to prevent the nut being pulled through, on some a flanged nut will be suffice perfectly. So just treat each hole with your own discretion and common sense.
-Finally this is probably not a job for one evening - unless you're very lucky, have a mate helping, and confident. You may wish to even treat each size as a separate job. It's a pig of a job, but the results are stainless steel heat shield securing threads, which are maintenance-free, will never rust, look great and total cost is about 75pence per fitting!
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1247_zpscf25f1f6.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1250_zps66d1e003.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1254_zps1df52618.jpg)
Not great images but they give you the general idea, and I don't think anyone can say that it isn't an improvement :)
-
i take it they arrived then ::)
-
i take it they arrived then ::)
Yes indeed! Apologies for not mentioning. May I say a personal thank you as the condition of them is excellent! Thanks to The Red Baron! :y
-
i take it they arrived then ::)
Yes indeed! Apologies for not mentioning. May I say a personal thank you as the condition of them is excellent! Thanks to The Red Baron! :y
cheers. :y
-
Update:
Seats are in. Carpets straightened out. Even cleaned the plastic trim panels round the runners in the sink!
This evening been working on trying to get her to run properly. Did a little 'let's just see, shall we?' last night, started, but only briefly. Not bad for having not run since 2007 ;) So tonight's problem is she won't idle, and only run with a fair amount of pedal travel.
Tonight is documented elsewhere better. Since checking back on kind replies, and all changed out of my smelly oily work gear, I decided to run out & borrow some thinners from the garage, and clean out the ICV. No idea if this has had an effect, as the one good battery I have is back on the Turbo Weasel, now. (after the original 'good' one earmarked for the project turned out to be pants :D)
Next step is check correct location of the hoses, and placement of HT leads, which may be wrong, you never know.
Nothing pretty to show you, sadly!
-
Havent you finished it yet ::) ;D ;D Any pictures :)
-
Hello all! :)
The following I take no credit for, my contribution for the evening was mostly putting on the kettle.
-My mate gave her a good run, fairly amount of worrying smoke coming from the engine bay after a few mins, which he assured me was most likely oil/dust etc.. that was just burning off - which it was :)
-After a few mins, trying to keep her running - very tricky with the desire to stall at a moments notice - he started squirting carb cleaner over various points, likely to have leaks. With the revs held constant, there was a sudden surge to about 2000rpm where the EGR joins the MultiRam.
-While he went off home to get some suitable bolts and Hylomar (the existing studs weren't original VX, and weren't 'biting' much either, clearly the wrong size/thread studs have been used at some point, stuffing the threads inside the MultiRam) I set about making a gasket from the finest Weetabix cereal box. Also I had a little investigate of the HT leads. And found that 5 and 3 were the wrong way round! :D
-Swapped them round. He returned, we stuck that on, nipped up the EGR, and bingo! Idling. BADLY but idling! Also a misfire... interestingly. Swapped the leads BACK in the 'wrong' place, and no more misfire.. ermmm!!!?! SO all I can think is due to the awkward nature of seeing the DIS pack, I've managed to get literally my wires crossed, though I did triple check. AH well!
-After a few mins she started to hunt, going from approx 1000rpm to 1400rpm. Sounds like ICV, which he had brought a spare, so we popped that on. STILL hunting, sadly. SO either both ICVs are broke/in need of a clean (the original was cleaned thoroughly) or it's not that :(
-Went over the vac pipes (smaller ones to the ECUs/bagpipes) and swapped a couple over, seemed to make things momentarily a bit better/worse, depending what we did.
-Swapped the old Servo-to-MultiRam vac pipe for another, better looking one. Didn't cure anything, but looks smarter and certainly looks like it'll last longer. Also isolated the fault as not being that pipe.
-Still hunting, and my valiant vauxhall chum had to get off home for a well-earned sit down. But in a couple of hours a car that would not idle had been transformed into one that will, and clearly need a small leak in a hose finding and repairing, that's all as far as I can tell.
-After cooling down, once I'd put the tools away I tried for one last turn of the key, see what's happening. Basically she hunted from 1000rpm to 1100rpm. Maybe the hotter, the more exaggerated the hunting, I don't know. Maybe I did move a pipe. Not sure.
So... in conclusion the vac pipes per se weren't the major fault - but it was a leak at the EGR, but there's a slight leak elsewhere, so yes.
and the HT leads were in the wrong place (as far as I can tell) but when moved there was a misfire!
I'm a very happy bunny, as she's now idling, maybe a little hi and some hunting, but running, thanks to advice on here and a very kind guy who managed to work his magic.
So heres a working, if not entirely pretty EGR... aesthetics can wait, for now we're looking for function :y
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1273_zps3041de7c.jpg)
Thank you and good night!
-
Congrats .. you have passed the initiation Omega test :D You are at one with it ;D
Glad your getting nearer to solving the puzzle :y
-
Congrats .. you have passed the initiation Omega test :D You are at one with it ;D
Glad your getting nearer to solving the puzzle :y
::)
:y
-
Progress (as of last night)
Just a short evening, 2 hrs 15 according to the clock (which started going from 00:00, of course, once the battery was connected) .
Jobs:
1. Blocked off the servo main vac pipe. This stops all the extra vac-supplied ECU electrickery from getting a feed. This quietened down the revs to approx 800rpm. (these started at 1100rpm, but slowly, at 50revs or so intervals crept down - it was a joy to watch, I don't mind telling you!) This done using ancient Chinese art of using a 1p piece and gaffa tape...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1278_zps01c0d778.jpg)
2. Drained ICV which had been soaking for 24hrs in carb cleaner. Beware - it dissolves/softens the rubber, so it's a bit like soft liquorice. Not perhaps as good a seal as it was before. I have a spare, but probably best to remove this rubber seal if you're cleaning the ICV the same as me.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1282_zps1409ad47.jpg)
Apologies for the noodles. These did not come out of the ICV.
3. Replaced a couple of vac pipe elbows. As you can see, they weren't in the best shape - though not actually causing the fault, best to change them. Freebie from Scrapyard. :y
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1275_zps00c43323.jpg)
4. Started her up. With main vac pipe blanked off revs eventually died to 800rpm approx ;D Success!! This means it's a vac leak, vac hose, or a faulty 'bagpipe'. So to start the investigating. I couldn't see anything suspect, all connections seemed tight and good. Engine off. Looked at...
5. This. Thinking this was a vac pipe (it's coming from the plenum anyway) I removed this...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1281_zps2b6008da.jpg)
And there was a slight 'gurgle' like the last of the bathwater glugging away. This appears to be to do with the throttle body/ intake manifold, but has oil inside - so part of the breathers? Might just take throttlebody off and give it a soak in the carb cleaner, as it appears this wasn't cleaned out that well when we did 'all' the breathers... Chain as strong as its weakest link, and all that.
Sadly that's where it ended. But I've narrowed down the list of suspects.
-
Thats the water feed to the throttle body to stop icing in cold weather.
Has that throttle cable got any slack in it?
-
Ah! Water feed! THank you.
I was thinking it may have been no 14 here: http://www.partsbase.org/opel/omega-b-1994-2003-5-4-20-crankcase-ventilation/
Seem to think it was a bit grimy with oil inside (!) hence my thinking it was a breather. Worth a squirt of anything inside? Dont' want to be a muppet and start chucking carb cleaner in things that are water-only, though.
Yes, thank you Mark, the throttle cable, even on fully adjusted seems slack. Seemed very slack before I started on her, and after the non-idle prob occurred this was the first thing I did. But even on max adjustment it's still not got any what I'd call 'tension on it' I know it's not got to be like a bicycle spoke, but surely a bit of tension?
-
There should be no tension on it at idle and a small amount of slack.
For the coolant, I would flush the system a few times once your happy its running ok
-
Ahh then it's fine. Good to hear. Thanks. And will do. Once she's actually 'going and stopping' the lot's happening..
Full service, plugs, leads, all fluids, all filters. Then wishbones and basically replacing the whole suspension, followed by a geometry setup. Then gearbox and diff oil change.
-
Apologies for the noodles. These did not come out of the ICV
;D ;D
Keep up the good work , yowl get there :y
-
Well... it's no steps forward, one step back tonight. :(
Ok, so I had her idling at approx 800rpm, with the man vac hose disconnected and blanked off. Thus proving that the leak is in one of the thin vac hoses.
Tonight, start to narrow down which vac hose it can be. I pulled the hose with the T-piece, blanked it off. Still hunted by about 500rpm. OK, so it's not any of them fed by that pipe. So disconnect the single one after that. Still hunting revs. OK so its neither :o
So after proving it definitely is one of them pipes the other night. I've now proven it's not! :(
-
Did you check the main servo pipe for holes/damage?
-
Hi Mark.
The main vac pipe is a 'known good' replacement from a mate. It has seen some repair in the past, where they rub on the aircon pipe, but looks fine now. However, I won't take any chances. I'll get it off soon as I can to check. I'll get it blanked off and blow into it in a bowl of water, or something like that.
The worst bit of this is when I decided to just return the piping to how I had it before, blanking off the main vac pipe and plenum, so at east she'd idle normal again...and it didn't. She carried on hunting wildly as before. :(
The wild idling seems to occur when temp gets up to indicated 95oC
-
Good morning all. So, last night's progress...
Prezzie Time! Bought a full plenum and ancillaries from the wonderful MissyMV6. And here they are...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1353-1_zps3a208b70.jpg)
Fitted a new set of thin vac pipes. (found an Omega with 37k on the clock in the scrappy, the engine bay's like a timewarp so got several bits including a nice white header tank) all but the two that lead to the reservoir behind the pollen filter. These will be done when I get the others from the scrappy.
Main vac pipe has been replaced. The car's now on it's third! The original looked suspect, a good friend gave me a known good one, just with some tape on a worn-thin bit, but better than the original. But as this low mileage example was there, I couldn't resist getting it. Good times!
out with the old, in with the new....
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1340-1_zpsf83348f5.jpg)
She then idled lovely, slowly drifting down to about 900rpm. Then, after five-ten mins, started rising, to about 1300rpm, then starting to hunt from 1300-1800rpm approx. :( The problem persists!
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1347_zps812c1b69.jpg)
So looking for further places where a leak could occur, rather than take the plenum off as a whole I went for the breather panel on top. I found this...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1348_zps3b6fac99.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1349_zps39fab242.jpg)
So the seal is dry, cracked, and wasn't seated properly. I tried getting the seal off the new spare plenum I now have, but this sadly also split when I tried to fit it. It donated new o-rings, though :y I'll be ordering new seals and rings etc from Vx today.
Fingers crossed this is part of the problem. Even if it isn't, just like the vac pipes, they want doing anyway. So I've a feeling of progress, even though she's not actually running better.
-
Managed to get the Plenum and throttle body off last night, before getting a text off my girlfriend. She managed to burn and electrocute herself from a dodgy plug. :( I am reliably told that I am wrong - and the electric heater and four other appliances plugged in was not overloaded. The plastic must have spontaneously combusted, as it is known for doing... :y
So sadly only managed about 45 mins on her (the V6, I mean!) Still hunting out possible reasons for the steadily rising revs, then hunting....
Possible reasons for the bad idle issue are...
-Throttle position sensor faulty
-Sticking butterfly valves (these seem to move easily, and beautifully. So a bit doubtful it's this.
-6 x O Rings where divider meets the plenum are hard and letting some air by.
-The 'top-hat seal' was damaged, this may have been causing issues. letting air by inside the plenum, maybe?
-Verrrry end of tube where breather bridge enters throttle body snapped off - possible weep of air past the o-ring?
And after than I've no idea!
Just sad seeing it like this, all broken and bits missing! :-[
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1363_zps014e6347.jpg)
It's not the muckiest throttle body in the known world - can't imagine this is causing issues?
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1364_zpsf4ccf985.jpg)
-
i've never heard of a TPS going bad mate (not to say they cant of course)
-
Fair enough. I can 99.999% discount that, then. Thanks :y Got one on the plenum, and other bits I got of Missy MV6 a few weeks back, that's all, it was just a thought, as I'm sure someone on here recommended cleaning or changing one once. It's logical. The engine revs up, ECU says' whoa, too fast, slow it down.' it slows it down, then says 'woa, too slow, speed it up' and so on... fauly sensor could be causing that malady.
Really hoping its the top hat seal. It wants changing, anyway, brittle, hard and found it wasn't even seated properly. It's a £1.20 seal for god's sake - why didn't my dad just change it when he last refitted the breather bridge. GRRR!! Though how the hell that should be causing the engine to rev gentle up to 1300, then hunt between there and 1800rpm I have nooo idea! ???
-
Be aware that there are at least two different throttle pot types on the V6 and fitting the wrong one creates interesting effects
-
Ah, thanks Mark, do you mean a difference between the 2.5 and 3.0 throttle body, or are we talking about the throttle bodies with DBW throttles on the 2.6 / 3.2s? The TP sensor I've got as a 'spare' is off a long plenum 3.0 with cable throttle, if that helps?
You're just the man I wanted to ask a Question of, actually - In this case would you advise replacing the 6 x O-rings?
They seem ok ie: very slightly proud of the machined mating surface of the dividers. So in theory should seal between divider and plenum fine... I am sure I've read one of your past posts / how-tos saying these don't tend to need replacing. If this is a possible cause of the engine woes, then change them I shall.
-
If youre positive the leak is in the inlet manifold you can replace breather bridge gaskets (top hat and two o rings), the 6 inlet to plenum 'o' rings and finally the gaskets on the upside and on the below side of the black plastic sandwich plate.
at least if you did the lot you can rule out your leak being one of them.
imo :)
-
Got the top hat and the two tiny ones of the breather bridge, theyre in the kitchen ;) ... the 6x O rings inlet to plenum + possible, yes, may just order some. I was just trying to picture the "gaskets on the upside and on the below side of the black plastic sandwich plate." got ya, the dividers, in black plastic, yes.
I'd tend to say 'no, can't be them' - but if I don't, then reassemble and it's the same - do I take it all apart agin, to then replace them? Probably not! So may be worth doing, as you say...
-
Worth checking all the bolts are nipped up, but using your logic, you might as well change the thermostat, oil cooler and camcovers while you're at it... Just in case ::)
-
Well, last night's 'progress'...
Just about managed to clean up and fit a replacement plenum, ICV, and throttle body. Off a scrap 2.5, and in excellent order, having covered just 37k miles. I used my own breather bridge, as the other looked like it was a little clogged - rather than spend time cleaning this I opted to fit my original known good one, replacing the seals on it as I went.
I checked the ICV to FPR hose, as advised by the good Mr Bear, just in case this was causing issue. there appeared to be a dodgy split, but after testing this by blowing into it under water this appeared to be a perfectly good hose, no air leaks. As I didn't have a spare, I refitted.
Things I noticed along the way...
-The 'top hat' seal was snapped and incorrectly fitted. Again, I was hoping this was the cause of the bad idle. However...
-My current throttle body appears to have an incorrectly adjusted butterfly valve - no idea how! I was hoping this was the reason for the bad idle. The new one has never been adjusted since the factory, it appears, which is good.
-Some pillock snapped the electrical connector off the new plenum (me), so the old one had to be re-used
-My old plenum is ever-so slightly different in shade and overall condition, can you tell?
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1369-2_zps46f56c9a.jpg)
Adjuster screws
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1373-2_zps4f449ee1.jpg)
Snapped connector
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1371-2_zps1b34305e.jpg)
The living room carpet, a mint, and a slightly-less mint plenum.
Though they seemed fine I replaced the 6 x O rings underneath the plenum with the low-mileage ones, just because. That was it for last night, finished at gone 10pm, and elderly neighbours not massively keen on a V6 revving when they're trying to sleep, strangely.
Got up early, fitted the EGR this morning checked all hoses and connectors, then fired her up.
Worse than before!!!! Slightly lumpy running, and the EML light was flashing - four pulses, if this means anything? ARRRGH!!! One step forward, two back :(
-
The Persians would be turning in their graves with that lot on their hand woven beauty
-
Made from a rare and beautiful creature, apparently known as a Crylic. :y
-
Christ,if I had an engine to bits on the living room carpet it would have gone dark very quickly for me in our gaff :-X
-
That throttle butterfly stop should be adjusted so the throttle butterfly is fully closed but not sticking (if allowed to return to far they stick), nothing to clever about setup on that one and easy enough to check. I have seen some vehicles where the professional bodge boys have wound the throttle stop in to mask an ICV issues (more common on the older 2.0 16V 4 pot X20XE). Under this condition, the ICV has to work almost shut and you can get some interesting idle rev conditions.
One of the issues you now face is that there has been a lot of bits done to the engine, so its time to take a systematic approach to things.
So start at the air filter and work through the inlet setup to the plenum, check for leaks and split flexi hoses, make sure the MAF is in the correct way round and the air temp and multi ram connector are correct (as on earlier cars you can fit them wrongly although this does not impact idle hugely).
Now check the branch from the bag pipes to the ICV, check its secure and ok and make sure the ICV is seated well and tightly in the plenum.
Now onto the EGR, is it fixed well to the plenum (to often ham fisted people who don't believe in torque wrenches over tighten the 3 bolts here and strip the threads in the alloy plenum). If possible, blank the EGR off to totally remove it from the equation.
Now check all the breather system, start at the breather box behind the 1-3-5 head and inspect the pipes closely, I have seen the larger breather pipe split close to the breather box before which is a tough one to spot sometimes.
Make sure the breathers are connected properly and that the auto box breather (if auto) has not been connected by mistake.
You sound more confident that the breather bridge to plenum joint is now ok.
I also recall you checked the brake servo pipe to but worth a second look over.
As a rule, the small breather pipes don't create an idling issue as any air leak associated with them is pretty small when compared to the large gasps of air each cylinder takes.
If after all this things seem ok then its deeper into the valley we go....
And read your codes again.
-
Much appreciated Mark.
Me working off the premise that 'well it must be one of the things associated with the plenum', changing that over complete should have cured it, albeit without knowing the specific fault.
I will go over the bits you list methodically. I'm also going to run her for a period of 15 mins, too, just to get up to temp, in order to see if she still does the erratic hunting idle as before. If that's cured, then at least I'm only having to sort a lumpy idle (which may yet me down to eg the recent rain we've had, the water leak which may have contaminated a plugwell, or similar.)
Thanks again Mark. I loose count of the pints I owe you so far for all your help, but whenever I'm in your neck of the woods I'll let you know and unload a crate on your doorstep :y
-
Me working off the premise that 'well it must be one of the things associated with the plenum', changing that over complete should have cured it, albeit without knowing the specific fault.
It's much better to inspect a component and find a fault (or not) than to simply substitute it, assuming that any fault must have been fixed in doing so. These cars are getting old now, so 2nd hand parts are getting old too, and can't be assumed to be OK, so you risk incorporating new problems in addition to the one you're trying to fix.
-
Yeah. This is true. I knew at the back of my mind that was the danger, but to be honest the list of parts replaced or fitted goes like...
almost all thin vac tubes
every thin vac tube rubber elbow
Battery
ICV 2x
Main servo vac hose 2x
Breather bridge gaskets
Plus and the visual inspection of what feel like every single visible engine component at least three times over, so I am started to get impatient, just want her to run normal, so I can start with the other jobs, like suspension, rust, refit all the hanging off and missing interior trim, tyres, Mot etc.. :( :(
Lesson learned. :y
-
The whole thing is jolly bizarre DBG. Hope you get it sorted. :y
-
That's putting it mildly!!! ;D
-
I trust you fitted the non-tampered with new throttle body? And still the same?
-
The one from the scrappy with 37k on it, yes.
Actually, though I'm saying I've changed over 'everything', in real terms what I've got 'new'is
the new plenum (which is almost just an empty chamber, with a valve inside if you think about it)
the new TB and
new ICV.
The electrical connector on the rear, EGR, hoses to it are all still original to the car. So in theory if I change back to the original plenum, ICV and throttle body it should be running like before (ie not very good) but I suspect it won't! As is the way with these things...
-
So....
Last night. Stripped throttle body (the original fitted in the factory, a replacement is currently on the car, the plan being to return to original to the car, once cleaned up as/better than new)
Soaked in various oven cleaners etc and spent a long time with the brillo pads! Also soaked screws in penetrating fluid before removing.
Before...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/6457668a-3479-4b84-a646-6e4d25d1076a_zpsfe2307ee.jpg)
As you see - when a screw comes out ok. Using the proper tool, with patience, without even the slightest bruising...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_13871_zps608942a1.jpg)
And when a screw comes out, using the proper tool, with patience, and the thing just gets completely stuffed in spite of all your care - and you end up fuming mad at yourself.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_13861_zpsaf113756.jpg)
Managed to Dremel a slot in it, and get it out eventually. Times two. Yep - two of them just got chewed to hell. :(
And after all that fighting.... one of the screws sheared! That's how tight in it was! >:(
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_13821_zps94b414b7.jpg)
All dissasembled...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_13811_zpsf8aa266f.jpg)
And I don't have any 'after' pics yet. It's still all in bits, and I don't have it as clean as I'd like. So on the hunt for two screws if anyone can help? Also a replacement throttle body adjuster screw, too :)
In other news I had the door mirror smashed off my daily driver Turbo Weasel, and the rear wing has a healthy ding in it, both done during the night. So, this proves with a bit of hard graft, elbow grease and time... you can have two buggered screws and a damaged car. >:(
-
'Before' and 'After' pics...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/TB-4_zps085c35d9.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/TB-1_zps49d258ca.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/TB-3_zps89c46866.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/TB-2_zpscad5f1a4.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/TB-5_zpsbf0c1073.jpg)
Just need to source replacement screws, make sure it's adjusted right, and that's one clean throttle body, ready to fit!
-
Also found last night a small spark coming from an HT lead (the most inaccessible one, of course ::) ) so the HT leads I have as spares will now definitely be going on. Learned from another thread that a misfire can cause damage to the DIS pack, which, although that's on the cards, and I do have a spare one, I'd rather not actually purposefully damage the one currently on, through lack of maintenance.
So a good night, really. Discovered the source of the 'clickclickclick' noise, and have a nice shiny throttle body, which, touch wood, shouldn't need a thorough cleaning again for many miles to come.
-
Can you not get the screws from the scrappy one :-\
-
The scrappy one is currently fitted to the car, actually :)
Basically slight rock and hard place situation, several options...
1-I've got a complete plenum and TB from Missy MV6, from the 3.0... perfectly servicable. I could remove the screws (possibly damaging them of course) from that to install in my own TB.
2-I've got the 37k mile scrappy TB fitted to the car, I could remove the screws from that and fit them to my TB
3-Simply chuck my original TB, and use one of the others as the new 'main' TB
Just for the want of two screws, I would like to get the original TB back on the car, not least of all, because it then leaves me able to sell on the immaculate 37k plenum and TB, saving someone the aggro of repainting theirs. The reason I own a 3.0 long plenum is for when I do the G Cam mod. (When i get some G cams :y)
-
No sweat ;) Someone will have some maybe , if i had i would send them to you :y
-
Ahh, thanks. I've managed to source a few suitable replacements in my Dinner Hour, I'll be posting the results fitted tonight, hopefully. :)
Got plenty of spares, so might try selling the excess to any members that fancy giving their Throttle Body a good clean, so you don't need to worry about ruining the old screws. :y
-
Here's the throttle body screws, also posted in For Sale .... I appear to have perturbed several OOFers by my use on non-standard non-GM hardware! :D
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_13991_zps2abc44e4.jpg)
Anyway, that was last week... this week I've replaced the HT leads.
These have come from the 37k mile scrapyard car. There's good and, well, good, but-not-as-good news... ermm... ::) Well, HT leads with 37k on them can't be sniffed at, however... it appears they're aftermarket. (no date code, BERU or anything GM) however this means as they've been replaced, therefore they don't even have 37k on them! And presumably much much less! So I'm happy as they were freebies. I may be eating my words once I've got the plenum back on and turned her over again, if she's running terribly, then I know they weren't worth it. (But I was buying the DIS pack anyway, so got the leads thrown in) I have another spare set of GM BERU leads which have lots of miles on them, as a reserve set. Still may treat myself to a set of quality ABS £55 leads, but if she's running fine, then that old 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' adage will most likely come into play.
However, when you see this...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_14111_zps28646322.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_14151_zpsa2d19496.jpg)
Safe to say the old leads weren't in the best of shape! I'm happy to call it a good evening's work and I'm heading in the right direction :y
-
Update on the brake shield I've been working on. Got some - again, off the 37k scrapyard car - in pretty reasonably nick. But rather than just fit them, I thought let's see what we can do here. Originals will only get more scarce, so here we go...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1419_zps2c984521.jpg)
Decent enough, only surface rust
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1418_zps0f0b490a.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1417_zpse62f7bae.jpg)
Sadly a day before I came back to remove the shields they'd decided to lay the car on the ground, crushing/bending one of them. Ah well. Pliers and a hammer :y
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1423_zps93d83113.jpg)
After angle grinder and flap wheel.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1426_zps1030cf0e.jpg)
After applying Holts Rust curing stuff. (Not a fan/don't really believe it works, but it's better than just painting over the rust) and a wet n dry to try and smooth it out.
Someone helpfully decided to put them outside, as they were 'cluttering up the house' - unfortunately inside of houses tend to be dry - outside in winter tends to be damp. So they got surface rust all over. :( so repeat last two steps again, and then satin black paint...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1430_zps8a0b0c00.jpg)
I'm not actually happy with the finish, but better than before, I hope you'll agree. Also I've got some really good paint on the way, which all underparts will be treat with. (underparts on the car ;D)
There we go!
-
Tis only a brake shield mate, but looks a load better than before. no ones going to see it anyway :y
-
It's true, it's well out of the way and only be seen my me and the MoT man :)
But on my lady I'm working off the philosophy / principle that there is no A and B surfaces to the car. Meaning, normally the visible panels would be 'A' surfaces - whereas the underside being 'B' would have more casual smears of paint, overspray, maybe the odd patch of weld, you know the sort of thing. Well not for my baby! :y
They did this on the Aston One-77, everything unseen, even the routing of the exhaust, brake lines etc was done to look good. You can sort of see that level of detail under the bonnet...
(http://media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/1d/34/bd/1d34bd5f6ee709b64267c74c88f7da73.jpg)
I've also been inspired by the chap who restored a Carlton GSi 3000 - the link I'm temporarily unable to find - but he did the most spankingly good job of it. I realised there was more possible that just doing what's required for the MoT and giving a rusty suspension component a wipe over with an oily rag. Bring her back to factory as far as I can - but on a non-existent budget, too!
Also thanks for the compliment Mr The Bear, more pics when I've got a coat of this super rust resistant paint I've got ordered :)
-
I know where to come for some rare spares now :D Ive not even got round to the heat shields yet :-[ Whats really needed is a garage built , then your not dependant on the weather :(
-
Ahh got one... sadly full of 30 years of clutter and stuff. ::)
Also due to a recent bereavement, we've got an entire flat's worth of stuff, too, in the form of doilys, family photos, clothes, you name it.
Looking for a new property, and a garage is on the list of requirements! :y
Feel free to pop me a PM if there's anything I might be able to help with.
-
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/P1040423_zpsaf47ce82.jpg)
HAPPY 18TH BIRTHDAY LOVELY!!!!
-
Cheers mate , will bear you in mind . Always on the look out for spares :y
-
Well, the Bilstein B4s arrived today!!! :y :y
Just a few days late for her 18th Birthday, but that's fine, as they came all the way from 'das Vaterland' and the good chap at Balance Motorsport did tell me there'd be a few weeks wait as the last set in the UK went to another OOFer a matter of hours before I purchased (I don't mind, though, as these aren't going to have any chance of being fitted before 2015, anyway)
Overall delighted with the service, price, and only time shall tell how she handles.... MV6 springs and Bilsteins all round, I can't wait!!! :y :y :y :y
-
GOOD NEWS!
Moneysaving tip # 8
Vectra HT leads fit Omega V6s fine!! And are to be found cheaper
Vx HTs
= £200
BERU (the same, minus the Vx markup)
= £85 best price
Bosch Omega V6
= £60 best price
Bosch Vectra V6
= £37.90
:y :y :y :y
There's no question of them fitting, they're on the old girl as we speak. They are slightly different lengths - only apparent when lined up like-for-like - but when installed all I found was one (cylinder no 5 iirc) was a bit long. A bit. Maybe. That's it :y
Perfectly happy with Bosch; word is quality has suffered in recent years, so only time will tell. But just basically a note to all OOFers if you are thinking of changing your HT leads, then check the prices of Vectra ones first. Final word is 37% saving over Omega leads, and 55% saving over original Beru price.
-
Also an addition, beaten my own price!
£33.07 for Bosch at mister-auto.co.uk...
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/ignition-leads/vauxhall-vectra-b-2-5-i-v6-170hp_v8867_g685.html?display=liste&opt_eq=true&e=011 (http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/ignition-leads/vauxhall-vectra-b-2-5-i-v6-170hp_v8867_g685.html?display=liste&opt_eq=true&e=011)
-
Vectra HT leads fit Omega V6s fine!
Good news :y Mine are looking a bit tired so shall replace them in the new year .
-
More than welcome Mr Emd. With some more digging, I suspect I could find some BERU leads for a Vectra, at (presumably) a cheaper price than Omega... Will let you know should I find any :) Actually, that's a thought, I never actually rang my Sdealer to inquire about genuine GM-BERU Veccy HT leads prices vs Omega.
As I've said before on this forum, I'm very keen to analyse as scientifically feasible/practical the cost-effectiveness of various quality parts. eg:
-Idlers are pretty much a given, Brand New pattern having as much play as old worn GM ones.
-Wishbones - ATP seem to be getting good reviews, at a very reasonable price - and the re-bushing old GM wishbones also an option.
etc...
But I'd be interested how well these Bosch last (given recent quality downturn raised by The Boy) when we consider the BERU-GM ones last 100k+ - with these at about a third of the price, how shall they fare? (my 170k-er V6 has gone through two sets of BERUs in her life, plus the used freebie noname pattern ones which lasted a full 15 mins on the car, before I tore them off!) :y
-
Well, the Bilstein B4s arrived today!!! :y :y
Just a few days late for her 18th Birthday, but that's fine, as they came all the way from 'das Vaterland' and the good chap at Balance Motorsport did tell me there'd be a few weeks wait as the last set in the UK went to another OOFer a matter of hours before I purchased (I don't mind, though, as these aren't going to have any chance of being fitted before 2015, anyway)
Overall delighted with the service, price, and only time shall tell how she handles.... MV6 springs and Bilsteins all round, I can't wait!!! :y :y :y :y
Wonder who that was :-X
-
Hahah.
A decent chap, by all accounts :y
-
Ha ha, my girlfriend wouldn`t agree with you at the moment :-X
-
Well, update, yesterday was the first chance I've had this year to get her running. Running a little lumpy, and that's after the brand new HT leads... but she quietened down a fair amount after she got up to temp. Managed to roll her forward onto the front part of the drive where I can access both sides, in order to look at the brakes. Turns out the brakes aren't working so well (not massively surprising) Sum total of Sunday was...
-Undid two caliper bolts (one ok the other very, very tough)
-Fought for the rest of the day on the allen screw which looks to have been dunked in brine or loctite before being tightened with a breaker bar >:( So that's stuffed, and will need drilling out. I wasn't an idiot with it, I had it soaking in several squirts of WD for abotu 45 mins while I did other bits. Ah well.
Was losing the light, so had to get her reversed up quick, ended up accidentally clouting the passenger front door with the jack, so there's a nice scratch there now.
Sadly not a day of success :-[
-
Oh dear :( Best start a fresh and have another go , those allen screws can be a bastid >:(
-
Thanks. Yes indeed -they haven't move since about 2008 ::) Just irritated that afer hours of 'work' the only thing done was basically undoing two bolts... and I had grand plans of swapping the brake discs and pads completely, ensuring good, easy travel of the calipers and getting a decent spare set on the Turbo Weasel... in the end I just end up buggering up one allen stud.
I even had a as-new spare ready, I was going to just bin the old one to come out (as they're known for sticking...um.. like this one did!) ah well.
Sometimes you just need something to keep you going, it's not always a nice smooth road of restoration :(
-
I had the same , someone had rounded off the allen screw . Took ages to get it out and by the time it was out it was time to pack up the tools :( Yesterday i was taking the locking wheel nuts off the rear of the Omega and the key kept slipping trying to undo it >:( didnt slip doing it up >:( Nasty things but enough to make you fill the swear bottle :(
-
Tried chiselling, but given that it's stuffed, I think I'm going to have to resort to just drilling the head off, thus the disc can come off, then I can get mole grips on the stub of thread poking out, which is bound to shift it. Then replace the screw (which I was going to do in the first place)
She's just been a bit mean to me, I think.
I think we're in a similar situation, with time against us. She has only been moved forward to the front half of the drive once in 7 years, and upon doing that I had a narrow window of a few hours, before the light went, and that part of the drive was needed for another car. To top it off, I was on my third jack, after two failed on me - no idea why they've been kept - so I ended up digging out the one out of the Turbo Weasel. In the cold and wind, with nothing going right, I'd had enough and admit I'd lost my rag by the end of it, an old alloy wheel and tyre ended up being chucked about 15 feet. :(
Now I've found I need at least some, if not all, new fuel lines so that's another thing that needs doing. Can't believe that a job I've done maybe a dozen times, a job I know I can do, and is pretty easy, really, has me beat. Away this weekend, too, so God knows when I'm going to get chance for another crack at it (nearside is only accessible when the car's brought forward, and can only do that on a weekend when the drive's free)
Ahh! >:( Might look at the offside tonight - if I can get that done that might 'cure' my mood.
-
Think i used a chisel to tap it round to get the allen screw out , it had locktight on it too :( With the rounded locking wheel nut , i smeared a wee bit of course grinding paste into the key so it gave it enough grip to turn ... that worked :y
-
Tried the chisel method, to no avail, I'm just not very good at it!
If I can get a good 'notch' cut in, then it should tap round but all I'm doing is making a soft indentation, which the chisel doesn't have any kind of grip on, and just sids straight out again. It is, like many things, harder than it looks. There's definitely a knack to it :-\
-
Hello chaps. here's the latest update. Good news!
Sat down last night straight in from work, grabbed a packet of McCoys crisps for tea, and had a relaxed evening, taking everything slowly, plenty of wire brushing and penetrating fluid, always being careful to use the right too, etc. Everything, everything came undone/apart :D
So just to give you an idea of the condition of suspension after 7 years sitting up a driveway in a seaside town...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1521_zpsd5xruncx.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1529_zpsg2uahjem.jpg)
My favourite is the state of the brake shields / studs...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1532_zpsko08f6xu.jpg)
As I say everything came undone, without a single stud or nut damaged beyond use. (In the case of the Philips M6s for the brake shields, these are literally pence each for brand new stainless steel, so I won't be reusing the old ones. So
Wheel, hub nut, bearing, steering knuckle, balljoint popped for trackrod, wishbone nuts & bolts all off.
With the few parts still left on simply on loose, I popped home in my dinner hour today to 'finish the job' as the wishbone being stuck on was still annoying me. After a few clouts with a mallet I removed the front horizontal bolt.... ahem ::) and then it came off :y
Even the hub nut came off like a dream, using ye olde breaker bar and scaffold tube. Damper is being replaced, so no need to worry getting the other end of the droplink off. :)Which leaves us here...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm240/leflemmy/DSC_1536_zpsm8dghmk3.jpg)
Not much left on! Best get on ATP and get me some track rod ends ordered. All the other parts I need are in the boot.