Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: makeitsnappy on 02 October 2014, 19:18:15
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Hello forum folks ;)! Need a little advise here. I'm trying to remove 8 torx looking bolts from the flexplate securing it to the crankshaft so that I can replace my leaking rear main seal. The problem I'm having is using a 3/8 drive t-14 socket and ratchet. The first bolt I couldn't budge it at all and it kinda buggered up the edges. Any advise from correct tools to correct procedure would be greatly appreciated Thank you :o
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marksman-41-2-600W-Watt-115mm-Corded-Electric-Angle-Grinder-Grinding-Sanding-3C-/291204964965?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item43cd2b2265
I would say use one like in link above , done that way few times always do the job
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alright I'll give a look. I was using a 3/8 drive ratchet w/E-14 socket its a snug fit but I don't have the strength to break it lose and I have a E-14 impact socket but its 3/8 drive to w/side impact ratchet it will lock up and I still don't have strength to break it lose. I have a 1/2 air impact but don't have that size socket. So I'll try getting a E-14 in a impact 1/2 drive. But in the mean while I got to know how to get the ones I've buggered up does anyone think welding a regular size nut to the end would work or are there any other option. Well thank you for the link I'll check it out in the meantime I'm all ears open to anything. We'll get back as soon as any progress is made. :y
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Get 1/2'' to 3/8 socket adapter and get a 2ft breaker bar on it
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???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it. :'(
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???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it. :'(
when you grind them off they will come with fingers
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You have an E14 socket with a 3/8'' drive.
Get a socket adapter.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/3-8_zps19e313bc.png) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/3-8_zps19e313bc.png.html)
....your E14 will fit on to this. And then you fit this on to a breaker bar that's drive is 1/2''.
You now have the correct socket on the bolts and leverage.
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:D Yeah Yeah webby bear that's something I will be looking for :y get back as soon as any progress is made. Does anyone know what the torque specifications are for these bolts?
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Hang on...
Just re-read your original post. Apologies if I've got the wrong end of the stick.
Yeah, either Serek's way or welding a nut on would work.
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;)
???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it. :'(
when you grind them off they will come with fingers
;)yeah Serek I get your point but I would be at a loss at figuring out what tool II would use to bite onto the fingers :-\
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;) ???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it. :'(
when you grind them off they will come with fingers
;)yeah Serek I get your point but I would be at a loss at figuring out what tool II would use to bite onto the fingers :-\
meaning after the heads have been ground off then the remaining bit of bolt will be fingertight & easily removed. :y
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Hey there The Red Baron, is that from experience ? because if that's true then that's gonna take a load off my mind ??? It kinda makes sense cause basically all the pressure is up on the head as to being down in the threads :y
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If it's any consolation, I would imagine these are stretch bolts which should be renewed when disturbed anyway, so yes, weld a nut onto it, or grind it off and get a new set of bolts.
Either way, they'll come easily since the tightness comes from the clamping force generated under the head, so once this is gone, the thread will just be loose in the end of the crank.
TORX fasteners are great for automated assembly in the factory, but not so easy to remove with hand tools.
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Grind head off. ....or drill :)
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If it's any consolation, I would imagine these are stretch bolts which should be renewed when disturbed anyway, so yes, weld a nut onto it, or grind it off and get a new set of bolts.
Either way, they'll come easily since the tightness comes from the clamping force generated under the head, so once this is gone, the thread will just be loose in the end of the crank.
TORX fasteners are great for automated assembly in the factory, but not so easy to remove with hand tools.
O yes I try to do some home work before starting projects on this car so I've already ordered my bolts #09126505 from gmpartsgiant at2.90 a pop just waiting for them to arrive. I don't know where to find a good manual on this car I searched but it would probably be a Vaxhall thing. Saw a repair manual on a EU e-bay for I think omega b or somrthing like that but it looked like a children's fairy tail size book so I passed. ;) Is it just me or does everyone else thinks The Red Baron looks like Bruce willis :D
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If it's any consolation, I would imagine these are stretch bolts which should be renewed when disturbed anyway, so yes, weld a nut onto it, or grind it off and get a new set of bolts.
Either way, they'll come easily since the tightness comes from the clamping force generated under the head, so once this is gone, the thread will just be loose in the end of the crank.
TORX fasteners are great for automated assembly in the factory, but not so easy to remove with hand tools.
O yes I try to do some home work before starting projects on this car so I've already ordered my bolts #09126505 from gmpartsgiant at2.90 a pop just waiting for them to arrive. I don't know where to find a good manual on this car I searched but it would probably be a Vaxhall thing. Saw a repair manual on a EU e-bay for I think omega b or somrthing like that but it looked like a children's fairy tail size book so I passed. ;) Is it just me or does everyone else thinks The Red Baron looks like Bruce willis :D
lol. a bit. :D
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If it's any consolation, I would imagine these are stretch bolts which should be renewed when disturbed anyway, so yes, weld a nut onto it, or grind it off and get a new set of bolts.
Either way, they'll come easily since the tightness comes from the clamping force generated under the head, so once this is gone, the thread will just be loose in the end of the crank.
TORX fasteners are great for automated assembly in the factory, but not so easy to remove with hand tools.
O yes I try to do some home work before starting projects on this car so I've already ordered my bolts #09126505 from gmpartsgiant at2.90 a pop just waiting for them to arrive. I don't know where to find a good manual on this car I searched but it would probably be a Vaxhall thing. Saw a repair manual on a EU e-bay for I think omega b or somrthing like that but it looked like a children's fairy tail size book so I passed. ;) Is it just me or does everyone else thinks The Red Baron looks like Bruce willis :D
If it`s of any help :-\ most auto-parts stores in the UK sell a series of workshop manuals published by the Haynes Group. Looking at mine the publishers number is ISBN 1 850960 510. This covers the 2.0 ltr / 2.5 ltr & 3.0 ltr gas engines. An additional note refers to
Haynes North America, Inc
861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA
Bear in mind this info relates to a publishing date of 1999. :y
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Thank you so much 78bex that's very important information because in America you cannot get that repair manual in any auto parts store over here. Even if you look at the back cover of Haynes repair manuals over here for the listing of other vehicles, its not listed. :y
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just as a point of interest, if you put a 2' breakerbar on a 3/8" -1/2" adaptor the only thing your likely to achieve is the shearing of the 3/8" shank, have been there and done that while changing the head on a 2.0 xev engine some years ago !
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just as a point of interest, if you put a 2' breakerbar on a 3/8" -1/2" adaptor the only thing your likely to achieve is the shearing of the 3/8" shank, have been there and done that while changing the head on a 2.0 xev engine some years ago !
Ok.
Wish I'd never commented! :y
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;) ???I guess grinding it down would be an option but then that would be at a point of no return and then I would have to figure what I could use to bite hold of the stud to completely remove it. That is coming too close to having to replace the crank and if that where the case I would just junk it. :'(
when you grind them off they will come with fingers
;)yeah Serek I get your point but I would be at a loss at figuring out what tool II would use to bite onto the fingers :-\
i had this problem on 5 maybe more omegas so far, and always work that way :)
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Hello Omega Owners Forum Folks! Heavens to Mergatroid ;D Just wanted to give a little update, I went ahead and got 5 of the 8 bolts off by doing what webby the bear advised and was able to achieve that without twisting off the 1/2"to 3/8" adapter. But I got the other 3 off by drilling down the head of the bolt and using a screw extractor. So now I've replaced the rear main seal and will be torqueing the flywheel back on in a day or so. Thanks 78bex I google that Haynes manual on the PDF site no need to buy it now :y I'll continue to keep up appearances after more progress is made 8)
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Great news makeitsnappy :y
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Hello Omega Owners Forum Folks! Heavens to Mergatroid ;D Just wanted to give a little update, I went ahead and got 5 of the 8 bolts off by doing what webby the bear advised and was able to achieve that without twisting off the 1/2"to 3/8" adapter. But I got the other 3 off by drilling down the head of the bolt and using a screw extractor. So now I've replaced the rear main seal and will be torqueing the flywheel back on in a day or so. Thanks 78bex I google that Haynes manual on the PDF site no need to buy it now :y I'll continue to keep up appearances after more progress is made 8)
Well done mate :y
Never twisted an adaptor personally but I could see how that could happen :y
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Never twisted an adaptor personally but I could see how that could happen :y
Weakling. Good job Halfords guarantee them for life, I've bust loads (but not as many as the smaller one that comes in the pack)
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Never twisted an adaptor personally but I could see how that could happen :y
Weakling. Good job Halfords guarantee them for life, I've bust loads (but not as many as the smaller one that comes in the pack)
Definitely.
Broke two T55 (or T50, whatever they are) bits on head bolts though.