Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: BazaJT on 04 October 2014, 14:53:24
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Although never confident of a M.O.T pass I was slightly disappointed when the Omega failed it today.3 advisories-two for slightly corroded brake pipes,third slight play in steering idler arm bush.Failed on only one point namely a broken rear spring.So questions are:
1]replacement,a doddle or a PITA?
2]Is £28 apiece a good/bad/reasonable price?
3]I presume that as with dampers,brakes and the like replacement should be done in pairs?
I don't suppose that given that's the only failure point and the advisories are nothing overly major that it's really done so bad for a 14yr old.
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Replacement is straightforward so long as you are able to safely support 2 tons of car while you crawl around underneath to release the lower shock absorber mounts and the rear differential mounts. Once that is done you can get a lever in to push the semi-trailing arms down low enough to force the old springs out & the new ones in. Easy(ish ::))
The springs are strong enough to support a big heavy car so it can be a bit of a struggle.....
£28 sounds very cheap.
Yes - change as a pair.
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Thanks for that.I do have a trolley jack which says 2 tons on it,but obviously that's only to get car high enough up to put axle stands under it,even I'm not daft enough to crawl under a car especially such a heavy one that's supported solely on a jack,although in a belt and braces approach I usually leave trolley jack in place too.
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spring compressors will make the job easier.
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Understand that on saloons you can just let the arm fall, undo damper, and the spring will come out without compressors - thought not the case on Estates.
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Key things are that the vehicle must be in neutral (true for Autos to) and the handbrake off.
Generally then they are pretty easy to do.
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There are guides for rear spring change and idler replacement.
Spring change requires correct position of the axle stands to allow the rear subframe to drop. There is an area by the silencers that is re-enforced, that allows placement without using the sills or the the subframe itself. Spring compressors are not needed, and space to use them is limited. However they may need to be levered in and out, depending on the length of the springs and how far the subframe drops. Sometimes the exhaust needs unhooking to get the last bit if travel.
Idler. Easy peasy. IF, and it's a big if, the idler comes off easily. I've never had any success with the hammer method described in the guide, although others have, and I use an air hammer available anyway. Although that can fail to remove a stuborn idler too. Idlers vary greatly in the amount of force required to remove them ime. So worth a go, but if it's stuborn then an easy job for a garage with the right tools.
Doable. Basickly. :y
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No need to drop subframe - used a good set of spring compressors, undo damper and lever out ;)
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Not too sure I can get access to spring compressors.So if I have to go lowering the subframe route a couple more quick questions if I may.
In the Haynes manual[okay,okay I know it's Haynes]it says to disconnect a ride level arm[or something like that]and also to release pressure from damper by disconnecting some pipe or other.However in the "How to"guide on here no mention is made of either operation,so is this not necessary,or are Haynes talking dangleberries?
Secondly as I'll have to arrange some more carer time for Maureen roughly how long[if all goes according to plan does this operation take?
I'll take this rough time then add on some more for awkward nuts/bolts or me making a total pigs ear of the job and go from there.
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Ride level device and shock absorber air pipe ONLY apply if self levelling shocks fitted. If you have non-self levelling you don't have those bits .. :)
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As yet not been underneath to find out,all I can say at present is it's a F/L 3.0 Elite with HID[?]headlamps if that tells anyone anything?
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If left as original it should have self levelling being an Elite .. easy enough to see, if it has very thin air pipes to the shocks its self leveling. as you pull the slidy catch on the pipe the air will whoosh out .. BE CAREFUL as the suspension will drop at this point .. if the wheels are still supporting the weight the body WILL drop ,, so make sure you don't trap an arm or worse ....
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Thanks for the warning I'll make sure that once checked for this pipe I'll be sure to make sure car is supported before disconnecting it.
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No need to touch air pipes at all, as the shocks are undone at the bottom only. Regardless of shock type.
If following the guide, the self levelling sensor arm is disconnected when the roll bar is disconnected, as the bracket for sensor is bolted on with the roll bar nut and bolt. Remove nut and bolt, sensor arm bracket is then no longer connected. Seemples.
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About an hour with practice. About 3 hours first time out. Depends how easy the springs come out.
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I shall be following the guide all right you betcha!Just needed that bit of clarification re-air pipes and level sensor,much appreciated.I f you're saying about 3 hrs for a first time out job I'll arrange caring for Maureen for 4hrs and then I should be under no pressure so less likely to make a ham fisted Horlicks[other drinks are available]of the job!
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Jacking the car AND getting the stands in the right place is key. Bigger jacks have a larger foot print. Which means there sometimes isn't room to get the stands on the reinforced section by the silencer hangers, as the Jack might be in the way.
So, if you have a large Jack, place it as outboard on the rear jacking point as you can. This sometimes means catching the sil lip a fraction. (Block of wood might help to avoid damage) then there should be no issues getting the stands in the right place. Carefull as you lower the car with the Jack as there's brake lines right next to the stands location.
....rest is as the guide :y