Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tigers_gonads on 12 October 2014, 14:25:56
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Europarts want 46 quid for the kit
Is that a good price ?
Needed doing last year tbh when it started getting noisy but i'm now getting a little bit of tyre squeal / rumbling noise from that corner so it sounds like there must be play in it now :(
Anybody done one recently ?
Any useful tips on how the get the bugger out and the new one in ?
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If that's the SKF one, then it's about right. They do one for about half that, which is what I used.
As for doing it, the hard part is removing the hub from the bearing, for which I made a puller. That was after struggling for a couple of hours with packers, bolts and swearing.
The circlip is the next fun part, you need some hefty pliers to start it moving, and I find that working around the edge with a couple of screwdrivers is the only way to get the damn thing out.
Actually removing the bearing is easily accomplished with the same tools you would use for a FWD bearing. Or you could use some studding and spacing plates.
If you put the new bearing in the freezer overnight it's easy to fit, or you could use the same tool that removed the old one.
Pulling the hub back through the new bearing is much easier if you have an impact wrench.
You will need a decent jack to get the car as high as you can, and of course axlestands. The hub nut is about 300Nm, so undoing it could be interesting.
This isn't a difficult job, but you do need equipment that isn't in most toolkits.
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Europarts want 46 quid for the kit
Is that a good price ?
Needed doing last year tbh when it started getting noisy but i'm now getting a little bit of tyre squeal / rumbling noise from that corner so it sounds like there must be play in it now :(
Anybody done one recently ?
Any useful tips on how the get the bugger out and the new one in ?
Bout the same from GM on trade,club.
Estate 90486468
Saloon 90510542
Estate and saloon different bearing.
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I have to do this job on the Elite estate next week, did the other side in May, this will be the 4th one I have done but I take the swinging arm off and use a ten ton press, also have a new set of shocks to fit at the same time and have to fit the rear poly's plus a full service. :-\
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I have a similar press, but removing the trailing arm just shifts the hassle of the job to different problems. Extracting the hub is really only the part where a press is helpful; the bearing isn't a tight fit or a difficult thing to do.
With some tooling, this is a 2 hour job - considerably less if it all goes well.
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Perhaps someone could right a guide....
I've been interested to see how this job is done :)
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If that's the SKF one, then it's about right. They do one for about half that, which is what I used.
As for doing it, the hard part is removing the hub from the bearing, for which I made a puller. That was after struggling for a couple of hours with packers, bolts and swearing.
The circlip is the next fun part, you need some hefty pliers to start it moving, and I find that working around the edge with a couple of screwdrivers is the only way to get the damn thing out.
Actually removing the bearing is easily accomplished with the same tools you would use for a FWD bearing. Or you could use some studding and spacing plates.
If you put the new bearing in the freezer overnight it's easy to fit, or you could use the same tool that removed the old one.
Pulling the hub back through the new bearing is much easier if you have an impact wrench.
You will need a decent jack to get the car as high as you can, and of course axlestands. The hub nut is about 300Nm, so undoing it could be interesting.
This isn't a difficult job, but you do need equipment that isn't in most toolkits.
do you have any photos of this tool?
thanks
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I'll see what I can do, but it's nothing complicated as I made it in a hurry out of scrapbinium.
I used a length of hydraulic tubing slightly bigger than the hole in the upright, and about 75mm long. I welded an M16 nut to the middle of a thick steel disc, and welded this part into one end of the tube. I then made two lugs from steel scrap, and shaped them to fit with an angle grinder. These bolt to the back of the upright using the brake backing plate holes, and were welded to the tube on the car. An M16 bolt completes the tool.
This is all rough and ready 'engineering' with no measuring involved, so the bolt isn't central. Despite that, it effortlessly pushes the hub out of the bearing.
A better, stronger, more precise tool would use a complete disc to bolt to the upright, and the other end turned to be a decent fit in the tube. I didn't do this as the bits I had were good enough to weld where they touched.
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Any of our mechanic type member fancy a guvvie ?
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Any of our mechanic type member fancy a guvvie ?
i can do your wheel bearing supply and fitted for £110 FAG beraring
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Any of our mechanic type member fancy a guvvie ?
i can do your wheel bearing supply and fitted for £110 FAG beraring
You know you want to come and see the Hoof'ers :)
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Any of our mechanic type member fancy a guvvie ?
i can do your wheel bearing supply and fitted for £110 FAG beraring
You know you want to come and see the Hoof'ers :)
Yeah , and Serek is excellent :y
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Sounds like i'm been groomed here ::)
Do I need a bodyguard or chaperone ;D ;D ;D :D
Right the plan of attack is .............. oil cooler and a few other bits this weekend then this is the next one on the list :y
Serek, i'll pm you early next week to sort things out :)
Thanks all :)
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Sounds like i'm been groomed here ::)
Do I need a bodyguard or chaperone ;D ;D ;D :D
Right the plan of attack is .............. oil cooler and a few other bits this weekend then this is the next one on the list :y
Serek, i'll pm you early next week to sort things out :)
Thanks all :)
;D We dont bite .. much >:( Always good to meet up especially at sereks :y