Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: wesagog on 19 October 2014, 13:58:34
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Hi,
I did the peper clip test for my Omega B 2.0l 1996,...
The rsult was three codes ( 38, 53 & 91)...
The servis engin bulb is on now...
I want to ask;
- 38 Oxygen sensor circuit Voltage high :(: Do I have to change the Sensor or what?
- 53 Fuel pump relay Voltage low: Do I have to change the relay? And wher it's located?
- 91 Oxygen sensor heater Voltage high: What is that mean? Is it the same cause of code 38?
What should I have to do, I really need your help?!!!
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Answered...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=126754.0
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I asked about code 52 but that was wrong...
The right code is 53
Pleae help
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Does it start and run?
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Yes, but there is unsuitability in the ideal speed each time I want to stop my car...
It's reach 1800 rpm for few mints and then go slowly to the normal.
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Clean up the ICV, ensure there are no air leaks, and if possible, check the trims and/or the lamda readings
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I did clean the icv but nothing change...
What do you mean by (trims)?
And what about the code 53?
Thaks for your interest...
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Just to hop onto this thread, also to clarify in all reader's minds. The ICV often is required to be cleaned as a matter of course with poor running. I've given mine a rinse out in thinners, blocked the two outlets and shaken, poured out thinners, refilled and repeated a couple of times until the fluid appeared only slightly tinted by the grime.
Seems clean enough, but how can we test if it's actually functioning? I'm presuming that if you attach the lower jubilee clipped vac hose, and plug it in, then rev the engine a bit, that will open and close it? Or does it require the second hose to actuate? Heard people forcing the valve open and closed with a screwdriver, but don't fancy doing that unless I know it's safe.
Hoping this helps for future reference. :)
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Thak you very much,
But there is no code of the three above refeer to icv fault!!!
The thee code are; 38, 53 and 91
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Re The Boys reply. . .
If you have cleaned the icv and checked there are no vacuum leaks then get a cheap code reader to look at what the O2 sensors are doing in the live data.
I think that's what he means anyway :y
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isnt 53 fuel pump voltage iirc----
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Thak you very much,
But there is no code of the three above refeer to icv fault!!!
The thee code are; 38, 53 and 91
The codes do not necessarily tell you whats wrong, its just an indication of what the ECU is seeing. Together with the symptoms, a good technician uses this to aid diagnosis.
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isnt 53 fuel pump voltage iirc----
Yup, thus discounted as the car runs. It wouldn't run if the FP wasn't running.
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Thank you all for your replays and advises...
I tried to check the faults with a code readers that available in the workshops here but nothing I get, that's why I did the paper clip test...
I think I'll replace the Oxygen Sensor first, if nothing changed I'll go to replace the ICV.
and I'll give you the result...
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Usually when the o2 sensor heater circuit faults come up you end up just replacing the sensor (as the heater element has failed) so in this instance i dont think replacement is a bad shout.
You could test the heater in the o2 sensor for resistance... if its fubard you will see infinite resistance, thus needs replacing.
HTH
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Thank you very much...
Regarding the unstability, I noticed that the maximum irregular RPM happend when the airconditioning system is on, and when it's Off the engin seems to be more stable...
Is that inssure that the ICV is not working normaly?!!!
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Or a intake leak somewhere so the engine can't compensate idle to the load that ac compressor gives. But def sounds like ICV or intake leak issue :/
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Ideally you need codes cleared, and see what comes back, as some of those codes may be historic. Without access to trim data, its hard to say if lamda is knackered.
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Ideally you need codes cleared, and see what comes back, as some of those codes may be historic. Without access to trim data, its hard to say if lamda is knackered.
True but a resistance check of the heater element will confirm if the heater element is fekked and thus the sensor will need replacing anyway :y
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Ideally you need codes cleared, and see what comes back, as some of those codes may be historic. Without access to trim data, its hard to say if lamda is knackered.
True but a resistance check of the heater element will confirm if the heater element is fekked and thus the sensor will need replacing anyway :y
Indeed. Conclusively. But it can't prove if its good :y
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How to clear the codes please?
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Go to Vx and pay many pennies for a Tech2, or drive to one of the friendly OOFers on here who have a Tech2, at an arranged much more reasonable price. Alternatively, after 50 starts, the code will clear itself for free :y
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So there is no way to reset the EMC manually?
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So, there is no way to reset the ECU manually ( such as removing the battery cables and touch one by the other)?
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IIRC ecu's learned values do reset if you disconnect the battery but fault codes don't :)
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Dears,
I replaced the ICV with new original one but there is nothing changed, unstable engine for few seconds each time I stop my car...
I checked for air leackes but everything is normal...
I have two qiestions please;
- when I disconnect the ICV the engine keep running with lower RPM, is that norma or it must stop?
- when I disconnect the air flow sensor a disturbance in the engine is noticed but not stoped running, is that normal?
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It doesn't cut off (at least mine did not) when ICV is disconnected. And yes, sounds like normal behaviour. If you car would have started to run clean after unplugging the MAF then that'd be the fault :)