Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: powerslinky on 24 November 2014, 19:21:45
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Still not made up my mind about what to do with the 53 plate 3.2 elite.
If I break it , I won't remove the engine as a complete unit but may consider that after a lot of bits have been removed from it .
However I would like to take the AR35 out of it .
My questions are :
How messy will this be ? As I don't want ATF all over my drive :'(
Can you take the box out with minimal mess & the fluid still in it ? or best to empty it first ?
Presume it is best to take the torque converter out with the box as one
I was searching for an auto box removal "how to" in the maintenance section . . . but could not see anything :-\
Any tips or advice greatly appriciated :y TIA Al ;)
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Well Al, I changed mine with lots of help from another forum member (Omegatoy) and I can't remember there being a lot of mess. However i do remember that you need quite a bit of kit to support stuff safely and two people. The box weighs approx 85kgs
I use a gardeners plastic potting bench tidy (about £10) to catch any mess when doing gearbox top ups and engine oil change etc. Pour into a container and then clean up with sand and then a wipe with a handfull of kitchen towel.
If you emptied it it would be lighter BUT to empty you have to take the sump pan off.
My good low mileage AR35 went to a Spanish scrap yard and is now no doubt a SEAT.
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Ronald McBurger wrote a guide but he (wrongly) believed that it was OK to leave the torque converter attached to the engine when the gearbox was removed.
This is the nearest I can find to a guide http://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1250185620 (http://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1250185620) (scroll down to the 9th post)
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get car as high off ground as possible and undo down pipes and then plate on engine that cover torque converter undo gear selector switch and linkage and disconnect harness plugs up behind selector switch area undo bolts(15 or 16mm holding torque converter to plate--turn engine over with socket on crank pulley at front (19mm) undo prop and then jack under box undo mount and lower to undo bolts to engine(16mm iirc) thats about it really
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get car as high off ground as possible and undo down pipes and then plate on engine that cover torque converter undo gear selector switch and linkage and disconnect harness plugs up behind selector switch area undo bolts(15 or 16mm holding torque converter to plate--turn engine over with socket on crank pulley at front (19mm) undo prop and then jack under box undo mount and lower to undo bolts to engine(16mm iirc) thats about it really
Would also advise that it's quite a lump with converter and a couple of gallons of atf inside :y
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wouldnt it be easier to take it all out in one go with an engine crane. ::)
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wouldnt it be easier to take it all out in one go with an engine crane. ::)
Ah . . . yes good point Jon . . . thinking about it I may have access to one of those ;)
Thanks all for the replies so far :y
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Dropping auto box isnt too bad when all bolts out and torque converter off plate it only takes to be levered off the location dowels and pulled back about an inch to lower it down and mess can be kept to minimum with torque converter left on box just need to watch when handling box after as torque converter could slide off shaft I tie across front to prevent this after on ground, as for leaks just loop the oil cooler feed and return pipes that should be the only time any oil escapes and very minimal if done quick both loops of course.
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have got an engine crane in Luton , available for lending , as am trying to keep indoors until it warms up- then I might use it for its intended use (3 years ago!
), but not got around to it.
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Yep, take it out with the torque converter still attached (to the gearbox) and you shouldn't get any significant spillage, but it will be heavy. Certainly a 2 man job.
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Is possible with one and a jack and blocks of wood etc.. as I've done it... but by hell, was I gratefull for a mate to be there at various stages. Possible on your own, but you won't believe how heavy it is once it's 'free', and certainly better with two of you.
But except for that top stud, which you will forget to undo, thinking they're all out, it's fine, really. Not a 'bad' job. I'd rather remove a 'box than do a DIS pack ;)
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ive done it twice now gettin it out is easy[ish] its gettin back that hurts.
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Is possible with one and a jack and blocks of wood etc.. as I've done it... but by hell, was I gratefull for a mate to be there at various stages. Possible on your own, but you won't believe how heavy it is once it's 'free', and certainly better with two of you.
But except for that top stud, which you will forget to undo, thinking they're all out, it's fine, really. Not a 'bad' job. I'd rather remove a 'box than do a DIS pack ;)
Def won't be doing it on my own ;) ;) Also been offered a lend of an engine hoist ;) from a local Oofer
So may well go down that route . . . but not touching it now until the new year :y
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you can do engine and box--its a lot more involved than just box though isnt it--
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Hi Al - I've done two Omega V6 gearbox swaps - basically as symes post #3 above. As said remove torque converter with box. Did our changes on drive, front of car on ramps, with large trolley jack to lower g/box, and, in the interests of safety with a second pair of hands ;) Last time I did one it was around 2½ hours from driving on ramps to driving off.
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you can do engine and box--its a lot more involved than just box though isnt it--
No not really. Bit of jiggling maybe. 2woody didn't even take the bonnet off when we took the 3.2 auto out of the project under his guidance.
That's not to say it wasn't a messy process though. Disconnecting all the arteries means there WILL be spillage.
What's up with the car Al? Why the dismantling in the first place? Or have I missed that thread?