Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tigers_gonads on 29 November 2014, 10:11:34
-
Just been to get my tracking done as the front wheels are miles out :(
The man jacked up the front end and the pigging nearside front wheel is wobbling around like a jelly :'(
I've been quoted 53 quid plus the dreaded VAT for a new hub / abs carrier ring :-\
Is that a good price ?
Is this something I can do by the side of the road with hand tools ?
Is it a easy job to do or do I torch the bloody thing ?
-
No need to torch the car, easy job with ordinary tools, part available cheap on e-bay. Chris and Al will not approve because of disturbance of camber setting, but that's not the end of the world. Toe-in is easy to reset. Part is common on e-bay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749
-
Cheers Terry :y
Are these the ones ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&mvsub=1&_mcatda=true&selfil=2%2C3%2C1%2C9%2C8&selvel=Vauxhall%7EOmega%7E2002%7EB%2520%255B1994-2004%255D%7E3.2%2520V6&_nkw=front%20wheel%20bearing%20hub%20Vauxhall%20Omega%202002%20B%203.2%20V6
-
Easy job, done it on both mine, and due to inferior products this one had them changed 3 times in as many months !! No need to mess with camber settings etc just follow the guide ..
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90544.0
I don't have a 320 Nm torque wrench .. but all I did was to assemble the whole lot to the max of my wrench 280 NM .. then put the wheel back on leaving off the bearing nut cover and the wheel centre, drove to local garage and for a couple of quid in the charity box they stuck their large torque wrench on it - straight through the hole in the wheel centre - and tightened it up. Drove home, wheel off, bearing nut cover on, wheel centre replaced, wheel on job jobbed. Half a day max per side
-
Am I right in thinking that its a standard thread on the shaft ?
In other words, anticlockwise to undo ?
-
Just pulled the wheel off and tried the nut just in case it had come loose when I changed the front discs a few weeks ago but its nice and tight.
In fact, i've just split a very old 32mm socket so i've ordered a nice new 32mm impact socket and new hub off eBay.
Should be here Tuesday so you can expect rain, snow, high winds and a plague of locust to invade Hull on Tuesday ;D ;D ;D
Good job I love these cars ..............
Thanks for all the info lads :)
-
No need to torch the car, easy job with ordinary tools, part available cheap on e-bay. Chris and Al will not approve because of disturbance of camber setting, but that's not the end of the world. Toe-in is easy to reset. Part is common on e-bay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OMEGA-O-S-5-STUD-HUB-BEARING-CARRIER-ABS-SENSOR-94-03-/110609254217?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c0d34749
Terry, your right, I don't approve. Several reasons, chief among which, he just said in his post that the car has just been set up. So it will need setting up( AGAIN! ) if the stub axel is removed. (Arguably it would be better to fit the used bearing alone)
Secondly the op has stated he has basic hand tools. Clearly he is not going to get involved in diy geometric set up ( I'm the first to admire those that will have a go at this but it's by no means easy, and impossible to Guarantee its correct, without checking on Set up rig anyway)
Thirdly, while the advice given might work for you, and fair play :y you must recognise that isn't going to be possible for everyone here.
Fourth, assuming long term ownership, a used bearing has an unknown history. Unkind miles, and could easily need doing again in short order.
For the op, the job itself is very easy, with the exception of the torque needed to tighten the nut. 320nm's. Some leverage is required to loosen it as well.
As for the part, after some long threads on the subject, after market parts, such as QH and conti(direct) simply do not last. Poor quality with more play than the original after 6months tops. Don't waste your money.
All German do the original factory part for £50 with the cap (not supplied with pattern/aftermarket) or, if that's too expensive fit used. Far better than pattern shite.
The only reason the part in the link is supplied with the stub axle is because the breaker can't be arsed to remove it from the bearing, due to the aforementioned 320nm torque.
Re fitting, easy if you have a 320nm torque wrench. If not Halfords 300nm wrench will dothe job. Or as Enwtood says, drive it round the local garage. Click click. Jobbed.
The only time I'd suggest Terry's method is if the wishbones need changing as well. Then it's much easier that way :y , but then you may not want a used bearing.
-
Normal thread, not left handed.
-
Cheers Terry :y
Are these the ones ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&mvsub=1&_mcatda=true&selfil=2%2C3%2C1%2C9%2C8&selvel=Vauxhall%7EOmega%7E2002%7EB%2520%255B1994-2004%255D%7E3.2%2520V6&_nkw=front%20wheel%20bearing%20hub%20Vauxhall%20Omega%202002%20B%203.2%20V6
Yup
-
Must agree to disagree slightly, in that I would be prepared to give those ATP bearings a shot in preference to fitting the firstline crap that my local factor insists on selling for near Allgerman prices... Then it's simply a matter of budget... best you can afford etc :y
A six foot scaffold pole will laugh in the face of 320nm for undoing the hub nut, but otherwise, it's a doddle of a job :y
-
Oh dear, good job I didn't say which tyres i've fitted too ;D ;D ;D
Understand what you mean Chris but with our bank balance, needs must and all that :(
I'm looking at changing all 4 shocks next year so if they is any play in there, i'll budget for a couple of decent hubs too :y
Right, off to find some old blocks of wood so I can jack the car up, apply strong arm complete with new socket (if it arrives on time) and lower the car / using the weight to crack off the nut.
I've not got a torque wrench which goes that high so it will be a case of strong arm until i'm about to shit myself then another 1/4 of a turn :D :D
But I will get it torqued up at a garage soon after :y
Al, those ATP bearings are what i've ordered :y
Fingers crossed and all that ;D
-
:y rummaging around their site, ATP sell a broad variety of components... only ever bought front suspension parts from them though, so interested to see how you get on :y
-
Oh dear, good job I didn't say which tyres i've fitted too ;D ;D ;D
Understand what you mean Chris but with our bank balance, needs must and all that :(
I'm looking at changing all 4 shocks next year so if they is any play in there, i'll budget for a couple of decent hubs too :y
Right, off to find some old blocks of wood so I can jack the car up, apply strong arm complete with new socket (if it arrives on time) and lower the car / using the weight to crack off the nut.
I've not got a torque wrench which goes that high so it will be a case of strong arm until i'm about to shit myself then another 1/4 of a turn :D :D
But I will get it torqued up at a garage soon after :y
Al, those ATP bearings are what i've ordered :y
Fingers crossed and all that ;D
I found that with everything prepped, wheel back on, lower car to ground, then a 3ft breaker bar with me standing on the end, hands on the roof and a little bit of a "knees flex - oomph" type weight application it came undone quite easily ..... but I was nearly 14 stone at the time !!
-
Lightweight ;D
-
Maybe so TG, but assuming you want to keep the car long term, reliability is key, as you've found. So Oe is cheaper long term.
But I'm sure you've heard all the buy cheap, buy twice story's.
Good luck what ever you decide. Would you keep us informed on the Atp bearings if you go that way? They are unknown but we do need people to try new stuff and let us know if they work long term.
... And remember the bearing cap. It MUST seal properly or the bearing will fail early no matter what's fitted. (I use a bit of black cam cover goo on mine just to be sure)
-
Oh dear, good job I didn't say which tyres i've fitted too ;D ;D ;D
Understand what you mean Chris but with our bank balance, needs must and all that :(
I'm looking at changing all 4 shocks next year so if they is any play in there, i'll budget for a couple of decent hubs too :y
Right, off to find some old blocks of wood so I can jack the car up, apply strong arm complete with new socket (if it arrives on time) and lower the car / using the weight to crack off the nut.
I've not got a torque wrench which goes that high so it will be a case of strong arm until i'm about to shit myself then another 1/4 of a turn :D :D
But I will get it torqued up at a garage soon after :y
Al, those ATP bearings are what i've ordered :y
Fingers crossed and all that ;D
I found that with everything prepped, wheel back on, lower car to ground, then a 3ft breaker bar with me standing on the end, hands on the roof and a little bit of a "knees flex - oomph" type weight application it came undone quite easily ..... but I was nearly 14 stone at the time !!
My 28 stone should easy move that with one leg then :D ;D
-
... And remember the bearing cap. It MUST seal properly or the bearing will fail early no matter what's fitted. (I use a bit of black cam cover goo on mine just to be sure)
Is there not a specific Vx goo for that job then Chris? :-\
-
... And remember the bearing cap. It MUST seal properly or the bearing will fail early no matter what's fitted. (I use a bit of black cam cover goo on mine just to be sure)
Is there not a specific Vx goo for that job then Chris? :-\
No. They are fitted dry normally, although there is some sort of green paint around the rim of the cap. I guess that absorbs any high spots and allows the seal.
I have had one one leak, and fail as there was obviously water in the bearing, but couldn't say if that was because of the cap, or the seal on the back of the hub.
Can't hurt though, caps came off easy enough too. :)
-
Can you get these end cap separate ?
I don't think i've ever seen one on a Omega and i'm on my 4th :-\
-
Can you get these end cap separate ?
I don't think i've ever seen one on a Omega and i'm on my 4th :-\
Yes you can get it separately. They should be replaced each time it's removed. Rarely have I got one off without deforming or some sort of damage. Its just not worth the risk.
One guess where from.
-
Can you get these end cap separate ?
I don't think i've ever seen one on a Omega and i'm on my 4th :-\
Yes you can get it separately. They should be replaced each time it's removed. Rarely have I got one off without deforming or some sort of damage. Its just not worth the risk.
One guess where from.
;D I think I can guess ;D
Might be a daft question but thinking back to what's been said on here about water ingress, back when I was a lad ;D When ever I removed the centre nut and stripped old style drum brakes down, on rebuild I used to fill the cap with grease then abuse it with a hammer gently refit the cap :D
Is it worth doing the same with the omega ?
I think I have a tube of grease in the shed somewhere that's probably been sat there for about 20 years ;D
-
ATP bearing turned up at 16:30 yesterday so it spent the night in the freezer.
Took 90 mins to pull it all apart, fit the hub and rebuild.
Only problem was getting what was left of the old bearing off the shaft after it fell apart while being abused with a hammer :D
These ATP bearings seem on first impressions to be pretty good both in fit (nice and tight) and quality.
Just been for a good thrash gentle drive around some back roads and can say that it now stops pretty much in a straight line with no judder whatsoever.
I must say that you can hear a pin drop in there compared to what it was so I think it must have been on its way for a while :-[ Or maybe I should turn the tunes down a little :D
All in all, its worth 35 quid (upto now)
-
Nice one :y never frozen a front bearing before though... Just whacked it on and tightened to bft plus 10 ;D
-
Nice one :y never frozen a front bearing before though... Just whacked it on and tightened to bft plus 10 ;D
Is that the rear bearing you do that to :-\
-
Nice one :y never frozen a front bearing before though... Just whacked it on and tightened to bft plus 10 ;D
FT + 90 degrees ::) ;D