Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: D_Mcginty on 20 December 2014, 16:30:53
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After noticing my clutch was slipping I decided to change it on my 2002 2.2DTI (Y22DTH) Diesel Omega. After I changed the clutch I went to bleed it and after bleeding it. The pedal only goes down halfway and stops. It feels like theres pressure once it comes to a halfway point and will not engage in any gears at all when running. I have changed the concentric slave cylinder and still hasnt done any good. Im fed up at this stage and have no idea what the problem is. Can anyone help or has anyone had this experience before. Very desperate help is needed. :-\ :-\
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Clutch Plate fitted the wrong way round :-\
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Clutch Plate fitted the wrong way round :-\
Clutch plate was pictured when taken out and has "FS" (FlywheelSide) marked on it. Double checked it so its not in wrong way .
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Did you change clutch cover aswell?
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Did you change clutch cover aswell?
Clutch Cover ? You mean Pressure Plate ?
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Re bleed the system, ensuring it doesn't drop low on fluid.
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Did you swap release bearing?
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Clutch Plate fitted the wrong way round :-\
Clutch plate was pictured when taken out and has "FS" (FlywheelSide) marked on it. Double checked it so its not in wrong way .
This suggests that you refitted the old friction plate :-\
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As mentioned..I would be looking at the pressure plate...make sure the fingers in the centre are all nice and even when fitted,if not query it with your supplier,,if ok then re- bleed the system :y
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Get someone to press the clutch pedal down while you man the bleed nipple. On cracking off the bleed nipple the pedal should go to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor do up the bleed nipple and lift the pedal if necessary and repeat.
If that doesn't help things, clamp the flexible hose to prevent fluid flow to the slave. the pedal should firm up if the master cylinder is ok.
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Thinking it through...
If the pedal only goes halfway down that isn't a hydraulic problem, but suggests that something is blocking the movement of either the slave cylinder or the pressure plate thereby keeping the clutch engaged :-\
If it were a bleeding issue, then the pedal would drop to the floor with little or no resistance, and stay there...
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master cyl has come to the end of its travel before it produces enough pressure,
only answer is to a shorten the adjusting rod, if that dosent work then change the mc,
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If the pedal only goes halfway down that isn't a hydraulic problem, but suggests that something is blocking the movement of either the slave cylinder or the pressure plate thereby keeping the clutch engaged :-\
Did the new pressure plate have compression clips fitted (that need to be removed once the assembly is bolted to the flywheel) per chance? :-\
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Interesting thread. If gears cannot be changed while in motion clutch is not disengaging. Can you engage and disengage gears with car stationary?
If pedal only goes down half way it means that it is pushing against something immoveable, not in need of bleeding.
I suspect Al is right, friction plate is round the wrong way. When I change mine in January, it was clear the friction plate was asymetric. I used a LUK kit, frition plate was labelled 'Getriebeseite', which Al told me meant gearbox side, so that is how I installed it. It worked.
How was your new friction plate labelled? What make kit was it?
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master cyl has come to the end of its travel before it produces enough pressure,
only answer is to a shorten the adjusting rod, if that dosent work then change the mc,
Its a concentric slave
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Whilst tightening the pressure plate did you hear a clunk or bang at any point?
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did you use SAC tool when fitting clutch?
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Problem Solved !
Turned out to be the Pressure Plate/Clutch Cover that was faulty ! Forks/Fingers were to tight to the circle piece behind the forks on the pressure plate making it to have no resistance to spring back when fully tightened to flywheel ! Got a new one the next day and all was perfect ! Defiantly a mind puzzler from the start but no it explains all. Hope this is good help to some. :y :y
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Well done! When I changed mine I could not work out how the pressure plate worked. Are those long radial fingers merely levers, or are they springs? Which springs hold the clutch engaged while driving? I could see other springs lurking within the pressure plate, and steel wires. Is there an exploded diagram somewhere that would enlighten me?
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It is a usual problem that the pressure plate fingers / forks are not even and level all around the centre ,so when you dip the clutch peddle to make the release bearing go against those fingers / forks,to lift the clutch away from the flywheel to stop it driving it will either judder or maybe not engage the gears at all......so always check those before fitting and when fitted check them again as they all should look even. :y
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Well done! When I changed mine I could not work out how the pressure plate worked. Are those long radial fingers merely levers, or are they springs? Which springs hold the clutch engaged while driving? I could see other springs lurking within the pressure plate, and steel wires. Is there an exploded diagram somewhere that would enlighten me?
Those fingers are one end of a diaphragm spring - that's the spring that holds the clutch in place and the same spring you must overcome to disengage the clutch when the release bearing pushes on the inner ends of the fingers..
There's a nice diagram here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch1.htm
And a very technical document on diaphragm springs here: http://www.haussermann.com/pub/pdf/en/tellerfeder.pdf