Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: ckz on 09 January 2015, 03:49:16
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Hi guys,
Short question.
Exchanged both wishbones, tracking and alignment set up.
Still have knocking on front suspension when wheels in full lock and going into reverse.
It's coming from the front.
Estate, 2,5 v6 mini facelift automatic.
Any ideas?
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Wishbone bolts loose/top mounts worn...
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checked all wishbone bolts today and they are all tight.
seems its coming from one side when you the steering is hitting a point to tyhe left but we coulnt determiate exactly where from.
have a dig on monday, jacking it up and see what it is.
start anoying me now.
try to do something good to the car and give it new parrts and the thank you i et is it wants more.
it has to be carefull if it demands too much it has the faith of every other one before/
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Might also be track rod ball joints or brake calipers pins worn... :-\
Pop it on ramps and have a good prod and poke around :y
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Might also be track rod ball joints or brake calipers pins worn... :-\
Pop it on ramps and have a good prod and poke around :y
I was thinking that or possibly the idler arm?
Does it only do it on full lock and reverse?
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Uprights clouting wishbone when on full lock(hitting the stops)
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Might also be track rod ball joints or brake calipers pins worn... :-\
Pop it on ramps and have a good prod and poke around :y
I was thinking that or possibly the idler arm?
Does it only do it on full lock and reverse?
yes thats how it started.
on better investigation when you turn the steering wheel it gives a slight knocking noise before on full lock to the left .
we checked all bushes and arms under the car and nothing seems losse or moving out the ordinary.
just want to get everything sorted as i have tracking and allignement next week . so after that i hope the front tyres keeping there profile a bit longer. lol
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Caliper Pins exchanged 2 month ago while renewing the pads.
balljoints tested while exchanging the wishbones, at least them which are not on wishbones allready.
all ok and nothing out of the ordinary according to both garages.
been on 2 places to get each wishbone done, as it was 6 weeks apart to do and the first garage wasn't able to do it straight away.
also seen the steering arms been tested as well when the other wishbone was done, just in case .
if it is the strut on top of the shocker how much is one of them ?
seems i cant find the partnumber to investigate for a price.
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Any knocking or clonking over bumps? How does the car drive?
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Have you recently changed a front wheel? It could be a balance weight on the inside of a wheel clonking on the brake caliper.
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I hope your garages followed the guide on here particularly regarding tightening the front w/b bolts with wheels loaded. If not you will soon be changing the front bushes:-\
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Any knocking or clonking over bumps? How does the car drive?
no noise or knocking over speedhumps.
drives straight. no pulling to any side.
it did with the wishbone problem on the left at first but all gone now.
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Have you recently changed a front wheel? It could be a balance weight on the inside of a wheel clonking on the brake caliper.
new wheels and Tyres Balanced toady.
no difference
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I hope your garages followed the guide on here particularly regarding tightening the front w/b bolts with wheels loaded. If not you will soon be changing the front bushes:-\
ermhh.
dont know.
how would this be done?
when the car is on the ground there is no space on reaching the wishbone bolts on the front. ????
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Have you recently changed a front wheel? It could be a balance weight on the inside of a wheel clonking on the brake caliper.
new wheels and Tyres Balanced toady.
no difference
What wheels? Full details required...
Reason for asking as I know of a set of 18" sports stars with a Vectra offset which had one wheel weight with snagged under the same conditions...
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I hope your garages followed the guide on here particularly regarding tightening the front w/b bolts with wheels loaded. If not you will soon be changing the front bushes:-\
ermhh.
dont know.
how would this be done?
when the car is on the ground there is no space on reaching the wishbone bolts on the front. ????
On ramps :y
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I hope your garages followed the guide on here particularly regarding tightening the front w/b bolts with wheels loaded. If not you will soon be changing the front bushes:-\
ermhh.
dont know.
how would this be done?
when the car is on the ground there is no space on reaching the wishbone bolts on the front. ????
From the Maintenance guide:
Tightening the bolts with wheels loaded presents a bit of a problem with access, ESP. on lowered cars. Getting under the car while it is on the floor with a torque wrench and tightening the bolts is nigh on impossible with a long handle and the floor in the way. So, simpler and easy way to do it, gently drop the car off the stands with front bush bolts loose/finger tight, drive the car slowly and carefully back and forth to allow the wheels to settle to the right track, they will be pinched otherwise.
Then tighten the bolts with a normal ratchet and spanner as best you can with the car either on the floor or front wheels on ramps, be careful with ramps though, the bumper is in the way unless you have extensions. Once the bolts are bf tight enough to crush the subframe bracket onto the bush centre spacer to hold it still, re Jack the car onto stands both sides and tighten as specified. The bush centre spacer should now be held in line with the correct ride height of the wishbone and suspension.
:y
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Illadvised... the suspension MUST be loaded, however much of a pita it is. If the car is that lowered, pull the bumper off to get it on ramps.
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Illadvised... the suspension MUST be loaded, however much of a pita it is. If the car is that lowered, pull the bumper off to get it on ramps.
Al, I guess you've just elected yourself to re-write the guide. ::) :y
PS. Much easier to fit polys. ;) :y
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standart 16s
225/55 16
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Illadvised... the suspension MUST be loaded, however much of a pita it is. If the car is that lowered, pull the bumper off to get it on ramps.
Al, I guess you've just elected yourself to re-write the guide. ::) :y
PS.Much easier to fit polys. ;) :y
Ain't that the truth...
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standart 16s
225/55 16
Ok that rules that out...
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I hope your garages followed the guide on here particularly regarding tightening the front w/b bolts with wheels loaded. If not you will soon be changing the front bushes:-\
ermhh.
dont know.
how would this be done?
when the car is on the ground there is no space on reaching the wishbone bolts on the front. ????
On ramps :y
FWIW IIRC the last time I changed standard wishbones some years ago, (before fitting front poly bushes), I had no great difficulty in tightening the front bolts correctly with the car level on ramps. :y
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Ramps will alter the weight distribution rearwards, so you won't get "normal" load on the front suspension. As long as the bushes are clamped, it makes no odds if the final tightening happens with the car raised. My approach is to use Shackeng's method. Tighten up with the car on the ground as far as possible, then jack up and torque tighten.
Actually, it's not. I fitted polybushes. :y
Edit: Oh, you said level on ramps. As you were. :-[
It's PITA to get the car level on ramps though, so I would still tighten on the ground.
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Ramps will alter the weight distribution rearwards, so you won't get "normal" load on the front suspension. As long as the bushes are clamped, it makes no odds if the final tightening happens with the car raised. My approach is to use Shackeng's method. Tighten up with the car on the ground as far as possible, then jack up and torque tighten.
Actually, it's not. I fitted polybushes. :y
Edit: Oh, you said level on ramps. As you were. :-[
It's PITA to get the car level on ramps though, so I would still tighten on the ground.
To be fair, this was from Gixer's guide here: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90658.0 :y
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K,
all retorked an done.
and found out what the knocking noise is.
the bearoing on top of the Shocker front passenger side.
now, can this part be sourced seperate, has anybody any ideas where and what part number?
mainly how much wouldthis cost and how to exchange this one?
Thank you
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£15-£80 or there abouts... Allgermanparts would be a good place to start :y
The bearing and mounting are available separately, but often come together as a kit...
Heavy duty ones from the Monaro fit pefectly, and therefore, by definition so will Pedders poly ones, at a price... both financially and physically.
Might as well do both as the other side won't be far behind :y
You'll also need the alignment redoing as the strut will be in a different place with new mounts...
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K,
all re torqued an done.
and found out what the knocking noise is.
the bearing on top of the Shocker front passenger side.
now, can this part be sourced seperate, has anybody any ideas where and what part number?
mainly how much would this cost and how to exchange this one?
Thank you
I ordered mine from Autovaux, Lemforder top mount for £20 + VAT :y