Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: krabi_one on 11 April 2015, 21:51:50
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Today I was replacing my thermostat
started at 10... finish at 19:30 - still unsuccesfull
and GM 90411629 totally broken
(http://www.karbowski.eu/omega/015.jpg)
(http://www.karbowski.eu/omega/017.jpg)
(http://www.karbowski.eu/omega/019.jpg)
(http://www.karbowski.eu/omega/020.jpg)
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:o never seen that before :(
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That's why it is suggested to order a new one with the thermostat... if it comes out in one piece then whoopdidoo, but if it breaks, you're not stuck without a car until Wednesday ::)
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:o never seen that before :(
(http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y486/05omegav6/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20131110_171223_zpsrefgsol7.jpg)
::)
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You're all oafs then aren't yer? and i'm bigger than you ;D
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At least us 2.2 owners dont have that problem ;D
And it only takes 5 mins to change aswell ;D ;D
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You're all oafs then aren't yer? and i'm bigger than you ;D
Finesse is the word you're looking for ;D
I've done two, one... as above, tother popped out in one piece...
Both were replaced ;)
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Taxi Al you have done some damage there hehe ;)
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Taxi Al you have done some damage there hehe ;)
Yes, but he knows how to replace the 'B' Bolt. ::) ::) ::) ;D
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As Al says, sometimes they come out, sometimes they don't without breaking.
Probably been in there since the car was built so not suprising.
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thermostat definitely was genuine from the time when car was new !!!! but you know what ! I got receipt from previous buyer ( invoice from 11.2013 ) for new thermostat.
looks like previous owner wanted to change it by self but when figure out how much work is needed to do it he sold it to guy which i bough it from.
just wonder now how many of those receipts now are real (and is it everything was done like shows on invoices)
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Have a read of this list...
Every Omega requires a certain amount of work somewhere between 80-120k miles, regardless of age or model...
Suspension rebuilding,
Aircon condensor,
Camcover gaskets,
HBV,
Autobox fluid/filter,
Door lock motors,
Exhaust.
Coil/dispack,
Thermostat,
Crank/cam sensor.
On cars covering high mileage, these are usually closer together, almost becoming 3/4 year service items...
On cars covering lower annual mileages, these items might seem to follow one from the next, but only need doing once a decade or so.
Geometry should almost be considered a bi annual event due to the state of the roads.
Rust is a bit different as issues go, each car is individual... you have treated it as a temporary measure... if you can weld, then when you pull the shocks, that would be a good time to plate the wheelarch side and treat the engine bay side as well. That way you can be certain that it has been held at bay...
These cars are mechanically predictable, but as they physically age, corrosion does become a greater issue
That's basically all the Omegas issues in a nutshell... approached methodically they are all easy fixes and mostly service items rather than reliability issues :y
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Have a read of this list...
Every Omega requires a certain amount of work somewhere between 80-120k miles, regardless of age or model...
Suspension rebuilding,
Aircon condensor,
Camcover gaskets,
HBV,
Autobox fluid/filter,
Door lock motors,
Exhaust.
Coil/dispack,
Thermostat,
Crank/cam sensor.
On cars covering high mileage, these are usually closer together, almost becoming 3/4 year service items...
On cars covering lower annual mileages, these items might seem to follow one from the next, but only need doing once a decade or so.
Geometry should almost be considered a bi annual event due to the state of the roads.
Rust is a bit different as issues go, each car is individual... you have treated it as a temporary measure... if you can weld, then when you pull the shocks, that would be a good time to plate the wheelarch side and treat the engine bay side as well. That way you can be certain that it has been held at bay...
These cars are mechanically predictable, but as they physically age, corrosion does become a greater issue
That's basically all the Omegas issues in a nutshell... approached methodically they are all easy fixes and mostly service items rather than reliability issues :y
need to print it !! really , exhaust looks like need to be done in this year , one of door motors ( passenger side - not working on the remote)
suspension I would like to do in short future..
worth to do the crank sensor just in case ?
is the 3.0 similar in failures ? or less problematic ?
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I forgot the door solenoids from the list ::)
3.2 is easier to work on and with 3.0 you can add EGR valve and idle control valve plus secondary air injection issues to the list...
Stick with the 3.2 and know that once that list is ticked off, if you keep the the oil/belt/coolant changes regular you will have no issues with it :y
And with each item, there's plenty of advice as to ways to deal with them... some parts are best being dealer supplied, and some things can be sourced elsewhere according to both budget and how you use the car :y
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Have a read of this list...
Every Omega requires a certain amount of work somewhere between 80-120k miles, regardless of age or model...
Suspension rebuilding,
Aircon condensor,
Camcover gaskets,
HBV,
Autobox fluid/filter,
Door lock motors,
Exhaust.
Coil/dispack,
Thermostat,
Crank/cam sensor.
On cars covering high mileage, these are usually closer together, almost becoming 3/4 year service items...
On cars covering lower annual mileages, these items might seem to follow one from the next, but only need doing once a decade or so.
Geometry should almost be considered a bi annual event due to the state of the roads.
Rust is a bit different as issues go, each car is individual... you have treated it as a temporary measure... if you can weld, then when you pull the shocks, that would be a good time to plate the wheelarch side and treat the engine bay side as well. That way you can be certain that it has been held at bay...
These cars are mechanically predictable, but as they physically age, corrosion does become a greater issue
That's basically all the Omegas issues in a nutshell... approached methodically they are all easy fixes and mostly service items rather than reliability issues :y
:-\ Why
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Coz they get caked in shit and dissolve... :D
All that silver dusty shit on the front of the engine tray used to be the bottom two layers of condenser fins...
See...
(http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq19/steve6367/99cf2d17646944a3a04610905f644f8b_zpsoyf3hvez.jpg)
:y
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Now you see I don't agree with the 3.2 being better than the 3.0 due to it being strangled with emissions rubbish, the 3.0 returns better mpg for a start :y
And you certainly would not add the EGR and ICV to the list, as they pretty much never cause issues :y
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I've been known to remove the cambelt, the pulleys, the backplate and take this pipe out through the front of the engine to avoid the problem of having to separate the housing and pipe.
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Now you see I don't agree with the 3.2 being better than the 3.0 due to it being strangled with emissions rubbish, the 3.0 returns better mpg for a start :y
And you certainly would not add the EGR and ICV to the list, as they pretty much never cause issues :y
Fair dos, but equally no point the OP binning the 3.2 that he has started on in favour of a 3.0 just to start over ;)
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I've been known to remove the cambelt, the pulleys, the backplate and take this pipe out through the front of the engine to avoid the problem of having to separate the housing and pipe.
Alot of extra work for the sake of a hammer, chisel and a £15 tube :o
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I've been known to remove the cambelt, the pulleys, the backplate and take this pipe out through the front of the engine to avoid the problem of having to separate the housing and pipe.
Alot of extra work for the sake of a hammer, chisel and a £15 tube :o
Depends when you need the car running by and if spares are available on that day/time. Working on my own cars, the time is effectively free.
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If you buy all the bits you're likely to need ready, down time is nil ::)
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I've been known to remove the cambelt, the pulleys, the backplate and take this pipe out through the front of the engine to avoid the problem of having to separate the housing and pipe.
Alot of extra work for the sake of a hammer, chisel and a £15 tube :o
Depends when you need the car running by and if spares are available on that day/time. Working on my own cars, the time is effectively free.
Removing the timing belt just to avoid splitting the thermostat and transfer tube station is making things difficult for yourself.
Adds about 3 hours to a one hour job, too.
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now if would know that the pipe cost me £21.9 I would do that job a lot quicker.
Hammer and 4 hours saved, just need remember to but the pipe before :) but now i need to wait till Wednesday
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At least you know for next time :D
Some parts are readily available from Vx but often all the stock is in Germany, so it's prudent to collect bits a week or so ahead of when you plan to carry it out... Takes a bit of discipline but the stress savings are worth it :y
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now if would know that the pipe cost me £21.9 I would do that job a lot quicker.
Hammer and 4 hours saved, just need remember to but the pipe before :) but now i need to wait till Wednesday
Main dealer VX :-\