Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: drakos on 26 April 2015, 13:05:22
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for my track project i'm going to strip out everything that is not strictly necessary.
so the question is.. what can i strip out without influencing the running of the engine
Evaporative emission control systemPurge control valve?
Vehicle speed sensor? (going to remove the abs and traction control)
secundairy air pump? ( i know if i leave the relay it won't trow a code but rather remove the entire wiring..)
exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve?
don't care about the mil light coming on
i've got a code reader so after every lap/race i will read the ecu for new codes.. and not gonna stop in the middle a lap for new codes... rather destroy the engine :P
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In my experience, you can safely remove almost all of the above. Just do not forget to plug the back pipe on the throttle, which serves fuel vapors. And the pipe on the exhaust manifold where secondary air pump is blowing.
Vehicle speed sensor? I think it can be removed, although it may be not right work of engine computer.
In order to avoid errors it can be introduced simulators into the wire, there are many schemes on the internet.
I removed the EGRvalve from my X30XE and put simulator, so that everything is fine.
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thanks for the reply,
do you got a diagram of that egr simulator?..
on my calibra the valve is hanging behind the dash to avoid fault codes, but that thing is quite heavy :(
also the vss is disabled on the cali,(no abs,mechanical speedo)
but i don't know if it possibly interferes with the load dependent ram valve? (how does the engine calculate load?)
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anyone else any input?
@serjiouz ; can you still sent me a copy off the diagram?
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any more input on this? i'm finally at the point to put the engine back in de omega and worry abouth the loom and codes
unfortunately never received the diagram,must have gone something wrong and forgot this topic :-[ anyone got this for me?
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Wiring diagrams for the 3.0 in Haynes Manual, less than £10 on ebay...
Technically if you're keeping it Road legal it should probably have everything wired up and working... Abs/Tc/EGR etc :-\
The ecu will go into limp mode if it decides that summat is wrong. Emission control items can be mounted out of the way, but should be plugged in, and Abs can be disabled on demand by a switch somewhere in the fuse circuit...
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The wiring diagram for the loom i've got.. need one for the egr cheater.
Roadlegal isn't a problem. If i need to pass mot i'll hook up another loom and ecu.
Just want to remove everything without going into limpmode.
Abs is long gone. But vss signal isn't neccecary, my calibra works fine without. No eml and no changes as far as i can tell.
Can someone verrify that?
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SAI is worth removing since it's prone to failing when the non return valve packs up. Just block the pipes from the exhaust manifolds and bin the lot, leaving the relay present so the ECU is happy.
I can't really see the point in bothering with the rest of the emission control devices. You won't gain any power nor lose any significant weight.
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thanks for the responses
isn't sai is the ram in the intake? nothing from the exhaust there.
i can let the ecu think the relais is still present with a simple restistor direct on the wires from the ecu.. point of this is that i can remove the complete loom section with all the relais. none of the other relais are in use anymore.
vss it can do without. most cars with a v6 conversion don't got that wire plugged in anyway, my calibra also doesn't
leaves the evap valve.. not enormously in the way but it's not connected anyway. canister is gone and the exhaust is vented to the air so no point of leaving that, isn't it because of a eml warning.
big question is the egr.. already welded the exhaust, removed al the pipe's and blanked the hole in the intake.
but the valve itself gives a eml when removed.
so the question, does the fault code for the last 2 influence the driving?
or does someone has a diagram for cheaters?
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SAI is a system that puts fresh air into the exhaust manifold when the engine is cold, as this causes some of the unburnt fuel to ignite, getting the exhaust (and mainly the cats) up to temp quicker.
It consists of a large air pump under the LH headlight, some pipework and one way valve from the pump to each exhaust manifold. There is a solenoid that is at the top near the radiator - this component needs to remain in place, else the ECU complains.
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Never noticed it when i was tearing the car down.. it was allready gone or i've trown it away without thinking. :P
Thanks for the heads up, gonna fix that with a resistor to.. that part of the loom is long gone ( as is for the first ram valve)
Someone know a solution for the egr?
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Never noticed it when i was tearing the car down.. it was allready gone or i've trown it away without thinking. :P
Thanks for the heads up, gonna fix that with a resistor to.. that part of the loom is long gone ( as is for the first ram valve)
Someone know a solution for the egr?
Well I did some research for you and came across many "EGR cheater" on ebay, so that's one way.
And then I have this memory as I were taking off EGR that you can place 15kohm resistor to pins 1 and 3 but don't trust on this knowlegde.....
I ended up just blocking the valve with a thin metal plate :y
-Mika
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searched for cheaters also, nothing that works with the v6..
in the progress of making one by the 2.2 specs.. egr looks similar, only wiring is different. (got the pinouts for both engines)
anyone can confirm this is gonna work?
just one resistor looks a bit to little cheating, al simulators are build on 4/6 diodes and resistors. but will look into that :y