Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Andy A on 09 May 2015, 09:56:49
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Just purchased an Omega 2.6 2002 Auto estate. Picked it up last night and drove it home the 40 miles.
On the motorway the temp stayed around 85 until I came off and slowed in traffic on the dual carriageway. It then shot up to over 100 so I quickly turned the engine off until it cooled enough to get me back home just.
I was told the Air con needed re-gassing but its been so long that the seals have probably dried up and needed replacing, but it all worked fine apart from that. I started the car this morning and there was no clunk and no change in engine revs when I pressed eco on and off and the two front fans did not come on with the Air con switched on. What could be the problem?
Thanks
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Just purchased an Omega 2.6 2002 Auto estate. Picked it up last night and drove it home the 40 miles.
On the motorway the temp stayed around 85 until I came off and slowed in traffic on the dual carriageway. It then shot up to over 100 so I quickly turned the engine off until it cooled enough to get me back home just.
Blocked rad?
Rad fan(s?) switch u/s :-\
I was told the Air con needed re-gassing but its been so long that the seals have probably dried up and needed replacing, but it all worked fine apart from that. I started the car this morning and there was no clunk and no change in engine revs when I pressed eco on and off and the two front fans did not come on with the Air con switched on. What could be the problem?
Thanks
Failed condenser is very often the starting point
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Andy, if the Air con condenser has failed would that effect the way all three fans operate when air con is switched on?
How do I check to see if any of the fan switches are faulty and where are they located?
Thanks
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Let it idle... When it gets hot, all three fans should be running at full chat regardless of aircon on/off :y
If it isn't putting all three fans on then the thermo switch is probably goose. There are two on the battery side of the rad. On controls the primary fan and tother is the override to switch the front fans on if the engine gets hot :y
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As Al says, check the fans :y
Looking at what happened, this is my take on it .............
Your travelling down the motorway at 70 plus 10% :D
Your engine is running perfect with the airflow keeping the engine temp perfect.
You slow down.
The engines still nice and hot BUT you have very little airflow SO the block thermostat opens and the radiator fans (should) kick in.
Due to the block stat opening, it tries to divert the water through the radiator but its pretty much blocked up with crap so the water doesn't flow and causing the block temperature to go through the roof :(
My advise is, take the car off the road for a few days.
Remove the radiator and empty it.
Blank off all outlets by one and fill it with Fernox or another suitable central heating flush agent.
Leave it in for 24 hours than swill it around and empty it out.
Repeat for as many times as time will allow then empty and flush out with a hose pipe.
Important bit Don't use a pressure washer or you will shag the radiator :-[ :-[
Refit and see what's happening ;)
If it still over heats then its probably a knackered radiator so it will need changing :y
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Wasn't aware the 2 outer fans should be on if the air con doesn't work??
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Done some testing on the drive. Engine temp went up to just under 100 and none of the three fans came on. When car reached just over 100 the two front fans kicked in for a few seconds and then went off again. The rear rad fan stayed off all the time. I turned the engine off at that stage.
Does this sound like a failed switch and what does it look like and what is it connected to and does anyone have a part number please?
Thanks
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I've traced back the wire from the rear coolant rad fan and it goes into a wiring loom so I can't follow it back to the switch. Where exactly is the switch located that controls this fan?
Thanks
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The two temp switches as, as said earlier, on the battery side of the rad...
Unplug the top one, allow the car to idle, if the front fans come on as per last test, then the unplugged switch is the dead one and vice versa :y
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Thanks Al. :y
Can both switches be accessed by taking the battery off or do I have to take top rad hose off to gain access and then refill coolant or is there an easier way?
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The only way I can see to gaining access is take the battery out and go through there. If anyone has an easier way to gain access to both rad switches please let me know.
Thanks
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Does anyone have the part numbers for the top and bottom coolant rad switches?
Thanks
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Top rad switch 90458540. Bot rad switch 90376209 :y
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Top rad switch 90458540. Bot rad switch 90376209 :y
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Thanks Paul
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Should I buy from Vauxhall or will any third party trmp/fan switch be OK?
Thanks
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Pattern work well enough ime, but worth shopping around as Gm ones needn't be expensive :y
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Thanks Al, I'll have a search about. :y
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Is the top fan switch 29mm and will a deep socket be long enough to fit over to undo?
Just want to make sure before I order one.
Thanks
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32 rings a bell :-\ personally use a deep offset ring spanner as the plug part is an odd shape...
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Got any ideas where I can get a switch from?
VX want £40 TC and they don't keep them in stock.
Thanks
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Just priced up the two rad fan switches from the dealers as I was looking to change them.. However they're more expensive than expected... Top one is £36.85 plus bat... Bottom one £29.60 plus vat. 😱
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That's what I found. If you find a place with a good price let me know and I will do the same. :y
Thanks
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Will do... :y
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Factors/ebay would be a good place to start... Will endeavour to have a rummage later :y
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Cheers Al. :y
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Best I've found so far is £18 none GM from Germany with a delivery of 1 - 2 weeks by the look of it. Hers the link.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Temperaturschalter-Kuhlerlufter-OPEL-OMEGA-B-25-26-27-OMEGA-B-Caravan-/400891374841?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item5d56fcecf9
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Before ordering a new fan switch, I'd be checking a bit further. It could also be the fan, a relay or a fuse.
http://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1295795115
(assuming the 2.6 has one) Use the fan test connector to make sure that you can manually force the fan to run. I think you just need to short pins 4 and 6 in the fan test connector, and the fan should run.
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Before ordering a new fan switch, I'd be checking a bit further. It could also be the fan, a relay or a fuse.
http://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1295795115
(assuming the 2.6 has one) Use the fan test connector to make sure that you can manually force the fan to run. I think you just need to short pins 4 and 6 in the fan test connector, and the fan should run.
As instructed here... http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130327.0 ::)
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Neither of my two front fans work at all. Is there a separate fuse for it?
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Neither of my two front fans work at all. Is there a separate fuse for it?
If Haynes is to be believed, F15, F40, F42, F50 and F52 all play a role in the various cooling fans operation.
FT1 will be 12V if F50 (and relay K26 coil) is OK.
FT4 will be 12V if F15 (and relay K67 coil) is OK when the ignition is on.
F42 is the fuse for the Main Fan (behind the rad)
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Before ordering a new fan switch, I'd be checking a bit further. It could also be the fan, a relay or a fuse.
http://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1295795115
(assuming the 2.6 has one) Use the fan test connector to make sure that you can manually force the fan to run. I think you just need to short pins 4 and 6 in the fan test connector, and the fan should run.
As instructed here... http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130327.0 ::)
Ahh, ok - no "one problem one thread" rule here then :D
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This thread was started as an overheating one, tother as a specifically electrical one, but thanks to your fuse/relay suggestion, the two have essentially become duplicates... ::)
If Jimbob or Kevin are kind enough and have a moment or two to spare, then perhaps they might be merged...;)
Not posting in multiple sections is actually in the rules :P
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Just tested the fans from the plug that connects to the top rad switch and all fans work OK. :y
Thanks to all for your help. :y
Just a decent priced switch to track down now.
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iirc about £6 on Ebay
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I've searched on EBay for part number 90458540 and the cheapest I could find was £18 and will take 1 - 2 weeks for delivery. Are there any other part numbers that is the same part?
Thnaks
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Must look harder...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RADIATOR-FAN-SWITCH-VAUXHALL-OPEL-OMEGA-50496-/141126674871?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20dbce29b7
::)
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What can I say Al. Obviously I must need new glasses as clearly these are no good. :-[
Nice find thanks Al. :y
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Still got problems.
Thermostat is stuck open. Top hose is getting hot before temp gauge was off zero. Is there anything I should know before changing the stat? What is the correct temp for the stat?
Just put the new fan switch in and all three fans do come on now at low speed but not until 100degC then they shut off at around 90degC on the dash. Is this the cause of the thermostat stuck open or have I just purchased a faulty switch?
I think it is a faulty switch. But I'm new to the 2.6 engine.
I thought the dash should be around 85 - 90degC depending on the cooling fans.
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
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The idea of the thermostat is to regulate the block temp... Stat needs changing before you can condemn the switch as by switch the fans on the switch clearly works ::)
If the car is off the road as a project, whip the inlet manifold of and look for leaks around the oil cooler and coolant bridge as it's an ideal opportunity to inspect replace everything then in reach... Including the breather bridge, hbv, oil cooler, cam cover seals and both temp sensors if budget allows :y
Be sure to also buy a new transfer pipe, as it will probably break when you try to remove it...
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The idea of the thermostat is to regulate the block temp... Stat needs changing before you can condemn the switch as by switch the fans on the switch clearly works ::)
If the car is off the road as a project, whip the inlet manifold of and look for leaks around the oil cooler and coolant bridge as it's an ideal opportunity to inspect replace everything then in reach... Including the breather bridge, hbv, oil cooler, cam cover seals and both temp sensors if budget allows :y
Be sure to also buy a new transfer pipe, as it will probably break when you try to remove it...
Al, Where and what is the transfer pipe?
Where is the location of the thermostat?
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There's a guide for everything, well nearly everything if you CBA to look... :-X
Sorry, but not in the mood for babysitting...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90647.0 :-X
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I read that post earlier.
What confused me was it said ( 3.2 ). Didn't mention 2.6. I automatically assumed the 2.6 was different in some way. Never seen a 3.2 before and only just got my first 2.6. My other car is a 2.2 Omega and totally different.
Thanks for the link. :y
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Fundamentally, a V6 Omega is the same as any other V6 Omega. The principal differences being cc, ignition and throttle systems :y
Obviously there are some detail differences, different cambelt kits etc based on engine number but the 2.6 is basically an undersized 3.2...
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Fundamentally, a V6 Omega is the same as any other V6 Omega. The principal differences being cc, ignition and throttle systems :y
Obviously there are some detail differences, different cambelt kits etc based on engine number but the 2.6 is basically an undersized 3.2...
Thanks Al for the info. :y
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The idea of the thermostat is to regulate the block temp... Stat needs changing before you can condemn the switch as by switch the fans on the switch clearly works ::)
If the car is off the road as a project, whip the inlet manifold of and look for leaks around the oil cooler and coolant bridge as it's an ideal opportunity to inspect replace everything then in reach... Including the breather bridge, hbv, oil cooler, cam cover seals and both temp sensors if budget allows :y
Be sure to also buy a new transfer pipe, as it will probably break when you try to remove it...
I understand that but what is confusing me that every car I've had with a stuck open thermostat like this one is has always run under temp.
What is different about the Omega 2.6 that causes it to overheat with the thermostat stuck wide open?
The radiator has no cold spots and is not blocked in any way.
I can't afford to spend a lot of money on the engine if it doesn't fix the problem.
Thanks
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The cooling system on the Omega is designed to work as a complete system... yours has/had at least two failed elements:
1. Fans not working correctly.
2. Stuck thermostat.
So it would have been slow to warm up, but once upto temp, it would quickly cook.This left only natural, unforced airflow to cool the radiator. Had the fans worked correctly, it would have run cold as you expected :y
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The cooling system on the Omega is designed to work as a complete system... yours has/had at least two failed elements:
1. Fans not working correctly.
2. Stuck thermostat.
So it would have been slow to warm up, but once upto temp, it would quickly cook.This left only natural, unforced airflow to cool the radiator. Had the fans worked correctly, it would have run cold as you expected :y
That's what I thought. I have now fitted another known working fan switch so fans are working correctly but it is still overheating and reaching 100degC on the dash with the thermostat stuck wide open. What else could be the problem?
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It's probably worth checking the waterpump; the impeller inside the block might be loose and not circulating the coolant. This is quite a common problem on other engines, so might be the case here.
At least that's a cheap check for you to do, and a new pump isn't expensive if needed.
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Thanks Nick for replying. I will have a look into the water pump but when I drove it on the motorway there was no problem with high temps. This points to the pump probably working fine.
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Thanks Nick for replying. I will have a look into the water pump but when I drove it on the motorway there was no problem with high temps. This points to the pump probably working fine.
Au contraire Rodney, Au contraire...
That confirms pump is shagged as it's the increased airflow from higher speed doing all the work.
The fans will help keep the temp down when in slower traffic, but the fans only kick in when then radiator reaches 100 degrees. Could also be the ecu coolant temp sensor playing up...
What state is the coolant in?
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Thanks Nick for replying. I will have a look into the water pump but when I drove it on the motorway there was no problem with high temps. This points to the pump probably working fine.
Au contraire Rodney, Au contraire...
That confirms pump is shagged as it's the increased airflow from higher speed doing all the work.
The fans will help keep the temp down when in slower traffic, but the fans only kick in when then radiator reaches 100 degrees. Could also be the ecu coolant temp sensor playing up...
What state is the coolant in?
It was very clean to start with red coolant additive. But just to make sure I flushed out fully and put in proper VX coolant anti freeze 50/50 and tested. Heater matrix flushed and blowing very hot. Radiator flushed and hot with no cold or warm spots, just hot all over. Even flushed the engine through and it was fast flowing and very clean.
Can anyone help with my 2.6 overheating problem please?
Any help is really appreciated.
Thanks
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....
Can anyone help with my 2.6 overheating problem please?
Any help is really appreciated.
Thanks
How about Al's suggestion of a fubar'd pump ;) ;) ;)
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Actually Nicks suggestion ;) I merely explained why...
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I tested the pump and the pump is fine. :y
I still think its to do with the fan switch's. The old one is definitely dead and the new one I bought was turning the fans on at a much higher temp that it should. This is what I believe is happening. I'm sure its faulty.
I then got hold of and tried a known good one that was working when it was taken out of the engine over 4 years ago. I now think this is switching the fans on at a much higher temp that it should. I believe this is faulty as well.
I have a friend is bringing his 2.5 down today and that is running at a perfect temp.
I will try his switch and hopefully put this problem to bed, once and for all. My gut feeling is that the switches I have tried so far are all faulty. Its the only explanation that I can come up with.
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I tested the pump and the pump is fine. :y
I still think its to do with the fan switch's. The old one is definitely dead and the new one I bought was turning the fans on at a much higher temp that it should. This is what I believe is happening. I'm sure its faulty.
I then got hold of and tried a known good one that was working when it was taken out of the engine over 4 years ago. I now think this is switching the fans on at a much higher temp that it should. I believe this is faulty as well.
I have a friend is bringing his 2.5 down today and that is running at a perfect temp.
I will try his switch and hopefully put this problem to bed, once and for all. My gut feeling is that the switches I have tried so far are all faulty. Its the only explanation that I can come up with.
How did you test it?
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On my 2.2i when I flushed the coolant I pulled of the small return pipe that connects the the expansion tank and monitored the flow at different rpm's.
I did the same with this one and it was a good flow rate match. :y
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Swapped over the fan switch from my friends engine and now the fans come on when the car is parked up at around 93degC and shut off at 87degC on the dash. Took the car for run and as expected with air flow the car runs cold because the thermostat is stuck wide open. I will buy a genuine fan switch from VX tomorrow.
Talk about unlucky.
Thank you all for all your help and advice. :y