Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 12 May 2015, 09:01:02
-
My recently transplanted 3.2 engine.....
Fitted, and running sweet. But I noticed some oil on the bellhousing at the bottom, and let it idle for half hour, you get a nice little puddle on the floor.
Also, there appears to be oil collecting on the top sump directly under the crank pulley.
I have taken the Cambelt cover off today to look at this, and I noticed that ALL of the camshaft oil seals (Gen GM, just replaced) have a misting of oil around them. Whilst I can't see the crank seal, I believe there is some oil coming from this, as there is a fair bit of oil under the sprocket, with no evidence of any having ran down the engine.
The valley has been exposed, and there are no leaks from the oil cooler unions.
The breathers are squeaky clear.
I can't help but think there might be an oil pressure problem.... I don't buy it that these seals just fail. Can the oil pressure relief valve stick, and cause too much pressure?
In fact thinking of that... when I got the engine home and had a look, the cam covers had silicone all around them - despite the gaskets being new and GM... so I wonder if someone had been battling with ongoing leaks, prior to me having the block....
I'm not sure if it's related, I also have some lifter noise from the passenger bank, which does go away when the car is fully up to temp. It sounds like just one lifter, not oil starvation or anything nasty.
I don't even know what the oil pressure is supposed to be... could anyone give me any pointers on this please?
I don't want to start ripping off the gearbox and changing the crank seals etc if the new ones are going to fail straight away!
-
It had been suggested to me to run a strong engine flush through it to free a potentially stuck valve.
This makes me very, very nervous! I don't like the idea at all!
If there is a fault, I'd rather strip whatever I need to, get to it, and fix it!
Id' also rather do before and after oil pressure readings, to confirm I've actually fixed the fault..
-
The gospel according to St Haynes only gives minimum oil pressure at idle speed with engine up to temp of at least 80 as 1.5 bar[22 psi]this is for the 2.5 or 3.0L engines.Should imagine 3.2 to be the same.Oil pressure relief valve can be removed/checked/replaced once the timing belt front cover has been removed.
-
The seals aren't actually exposed to oil pressure anyway, so it doesn't follow that high oil pressure would result in leaks.
What is more likely is that blowby gases aren't able to escape through the breather system, so causing the crank case to pressurise.
Oil pressure can be measured easily by connecting a gauge to the oil pressure switch port. I believe Tunnie did this not long ago when we had concerns about his oil pressure. Maybe he still has the gauge?
-
To add to the above,
If it's had excessive sealant around the cam covers, make sure the drain passages around the cam seals haven't been blocked, as that will result in oil building up pressure behind the seal.
-
Thanks kevin.
I am massively confused though, as the breathers are clear as a whistle :(
-
Also, the noise I Described - it does sound like it's coming from the passenger side head area... but it's not that tappy... it's more like a steady knock.....
doesn't do it when first started, then after say, 30 seconds, it starts.... gradually gets worse... and sounds horrible... and then when up to temp, starts to go away again, sometimes to the point you can hardly hear it..
I've just popped some wynnes lifter treatment in there
-
When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person. ???
-
When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person. ???
:-X :-X
-
When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person. ???
Hi Joff :y
Yep I fitted two, low mileage heads to it, and all the associated top end gaskets and seals :y
She runs absolutely fine... (cheers again :y ) I'm just trying to work out if I've either just got worn crank seals, or if there's some other reason the oil is making a bid for freedom :y :y
-
When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person. ???
Seals are probably fooked :-\
-
When the engine was last in use (in the MV6 estate) it never went more than 100mtrs at a time and was not used for a few years on the road. Did you not change the head over when you were fixing that engine snags for the other person. ???
Seals are probably fooked :-\
Tbh if it's just that, it's not too bad an outcome :y :y
-
As long as the sealed surfaces aren't corroded/damaged :-\
-
I'd be surprised but will obviously check closely :y
Are the seals expensive? :y
-
As long as the sealed surfaces aren't corroded/damaged :-\
Then what happens ???
-
I'd be surprised but will obviously check closely :y
Are the seals expensive? :y
It's been a while, but my rear crank seal was about £25 iirc...
-
As long as the sealed surfaces aren't corroded/damaged :-\
Then what happens ???
Carefully polish the affected areas and hope that new genuine seals still hold, otherwise live with any subsequent leaks or bin it...
Given the history of that engine, not replacing every seal/gasket was perhaps a touch short sighted :-\
-
As long as the sealed surfaces aren't corroded/damaged :-\
Then what happens ???
Carefully polish the affected areas and hope that new genuine seals still hold, otherwise live with any subsequent leaks or bin it...
Given the history of that engine, not replacing every seal/gasket was perhaps a touch short sighted :-\
I totally agree.
Tbh I didn't realise it had been stood. I've no doubt Joff told me, and it didn't soak in!
On the bright side. Apart from the crank seals, every other gasket and seal is done ;)
-
As long as the sealed surfaces aren't corroded/damaged :-\
Then what happens ???
Carefully polish the affected areas and hope that new genuine seals still hold, otherwise live with any subsequent leaks or bin it...
Given the history of that engine, not replacing every seal/gasket was perhaps a touch short
I totally agree.
Tbh I didn't realise it had been stood. I've no doubt Joff told me, and it didn't soak in!
On the bright side. Apart from the crank seals, every other gasket and seal is done ;)
I got the car from RobG who did not have it long, he had got hold of it from its last owner who had it at a trading estate were it had been stood for a few years, it had a lot of work done to it before this, rebuild of diff and prop shaft bearing renewed and the car had only done 120K. I did not run it on the road so no long tests on the engine. But I would think the seals have flat spots on them, I was told that the car was started from time to time when stood up, but flat spots is all I can come up with sorry
-
First things first, though - see if you can find out where it's leaking. A leak form virtually anywhere on a V6 will end up on the front lip of the sump, so could be oil pressure sensor, crank seal, oil pump gasket, cam seals, etc..
Might be worth stripping it down and cleaning it up, then use it for a week and have another look, if it's not immediately obvious.
IIRC, Mark has always said that he's found that the cam seals leak if they are replaced, but the originals rarely do.
-
I couldn't use her for a day.. The oil loss is v substantial :(
Its 100% coming from inside the bellhousing. The car is up in the air on a combination of ramps/stands and the cats removed for visibility. Externally all is dry. But oil is coming from the bottom bellhousing joint at a rate of knots
I'm feeling a bit better today... The box will be off and all will become clear in a couple of hours! :y
-
Sounds like it's a seal that's not even there if that's the case. Problem should be obvious. :y
-
Well today I have been leisurely working on the V6, whilst soaking up the sun, listening to the radio and drinking the occasional beer :y
I had the gearbox off by lunchtime, although the flex plate was stubborn to remove.
Rear crank seal showed evidence of leaking, so changed that. The surfaces were fine.
I've cleaned everything thoroughly, put it all together, and let it run for an hour.
Dry as a bone :y :y
There is a weep from the front crank seal too, much less serious. Will sort that over the coming days, I bought a seal whilst I was at it.
I've got this "one man and trolley jack" gearbox fitting game down to a fine art! :y