Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Shackeng on 31 May 2015, 13:34:55
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I've had my 125K TD Estate now for 16 years, as far as I can tell the shocks are all still OK with no leaks, of course I don't thrash it round corners like some on here (you know who you are!), but it is still a comfortable ride, so should I change them anyway, and if so why? :-\
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If the MOT tester says they're ok, your stopping distance is fine and the ride is comfortable.....why waste your money?
If it's burning a hole in your pocket (your money, not your shock absorber), send it to me and I'll put it to good use :y
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I'd leave them personally, I have my doubts on the quality of GM's parts of late. 8 years ago, no question, get GM. But from droplinks to exhausts, the quality is just not there.
I replaced the shocks on my 2.2 at around 135k, far as I could tell (nothing in the service history) they were orginal :y
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120k miles is a reasonable life expectancy for rear shocks, and 150k miles for fronts...
Change the rears for B4s, (£50ish each) and you will notice the improvement immediately ;)
If it has self levelling, then you only have one real option :'( but same applies re the improvement :y
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That's to say that is the consistant life span of the shocks on my ragged white estate, but have changed them on a couple of Omegas at much lower mileages... so anything from 70k+ isn't unheard of :-\
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120k miles is a reasonable life expectancy for rear shocks, and 150k miles for fronts...
Change the rears for B4s, (£50ish each) and you will notice the improvement immediately ;)
If it has self levelling, then you only have one real option :'( but same applies re the improvement :y
But how Al? I don't rag it, and it is a comfortable ride (CDX), so what is to improve? ???
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120k miles is a reasonable life expectancy for rear shocks, and 150k miles for fronts...
Change the rears for B4s, (£50ish each) and you will notice the improvement immediately ;)
If it has self levelling, then you only have one real option :'( but same applies re the improvement :y
But how Al? I don't rag it, and it is a comfortable ride (CDX), so what is to improve? ???
Take no notice of him, Chris, he knows nowt. ;D
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And don't forget, if you do listen to him, then Gixer the fixer will tell you that you have to have a full geometry set up as well. ;D
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:-X :-X :-X
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If you're used to the car, then you don't notice the effects of gradual deterioration as various components wear out... you're well within your rights to wait until the MoT chappies fail it, and if you're happy with the way the car feels then great, save your pennies for the 19th hole :y Even replacing the shocks with genuine ones woulld rejuvenate it noticeably...
And don't forget, if you do listen to him, then Gixer the fixer will tell you that you have to have a full geometry set up as well. ;D
With the state of the roads, there's already a strong case to get this done annually :-X
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I've NEVER regretted fitting new shocks to anything. The deterioration is so gradual, nobody notices just how bad they are until new ones are fitted. At 125k miles, yours will be so knackered that if you had to remove them for some other reason, you wouldn't want to refit them.
The Omega's problem is the maintenance unfriendly front suspension that adds an alignment session to £120 for the new shocks and the 90mins work.
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I was struggling to think of a good analogy earlier, but you could almost liken it to your favourite slippers/coat/armchair... :y
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I was struggling to think of a good analogy earlier, but you could almost liken it to your favourite slippers/coat/armchair... :y
A better analogy would be the incontinent old labrador you can't bring yourself to have put to sleep because he's still so friendly and good with the postman kids.
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I've NEVER regretted fitting new shocks to anything. The deterioration is so gradual, nobody notices just how bad they are until new ones are fitted. At 125k miles, yours will be so knackered that if you had to remove them for some other reason, you wouldn't want to refit them.
The Omega's problem is the maintenance unfriendly front suspension that adds an alignment session to £120 for the new shocks and the 90mins work.
Doesn't the omega have strut inserts on the front?,if so why not remove complete front leg at ballpoint and don't break the strut to hub joint, that way the geometry shouldn't be affected :y
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I've NEVER regretted fitting new shocks to anything. The deterioration is so gradual, nobody notices just how bad they are until new ones are fitted. At 125k miles, yours will be so knackered that if you had to remove them for some other reason, you wouldn't want to refit them.
The Omega's problem is the maintenance unfriendly front suspension that adds an alignment session to £120 for the new shocks and the 90mins work.
Doesn't the omega have strut inserts on the front?,if so why not remove complete front leg at ballpoint and don't break the strut to hub joint, that way the geometry shouldn't be affected :y
Nope, replacements are the whole assembly, which means unbolting them from the hubs and losing the camber adjustment.
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I've NEVER regretted fitting new shocks to anything. The deterioration is so gradual, nobody notices just how bad they are until new ones are fitted. At 125k miles, yours will be so knackered that if you had to remove them for some other reason, you wouldn't want to refit them.
The Omega's problem is the maintenance unfriendly front suspension that adds an alignment session to £120 for the new shocks and the 90mins work.
Doesn't the omega have strut inserts on the front?,if so why not remove complete front leg at ballpoint and don't break the strut to hub joint, that way the geometry shouldn't be affected :y
Nope, replacements are the whole assembly, which means unbolting them from the hubs and losing the camber adjustment.
Sorry,my bad.shame though as it would have saved some hassle.
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You could always try the "bounce"test as a first port of call,after all it's quick,easy and costs nowt,and then go from there.Things do deteriorate sometimes un-noticed over time,but why fix something what aint broke?
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You could always try the "bounce"test as a first port of call,after all it's quick,easy and costs nowt,and then go from there.Things do deteriorate sometimes un-noticed over time,but why fix something what aint broke?
I've removed shocks that pass the 'bounce test' but had no damping action left. It is quick, easy and free, but that's mainly because it doesn't actually tell you anything worth knowing.
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You could always try the "bounce"test as a first port of call,after all it's quick,easy and costs nowt,and then go from there.Things do deteriorate sometimes un-noticed over time,but why fix something what aint broke?
I've removed shocks that pass the 'bounce test' but had no damping action left. It is quick, easy and free, but that's mainly because it doesn't actually tell you anything worth knowing.
+1 :y
Having just replace my shocks all round the most obvious improvement is safety. It's now far less inclined to leap off the road when you go over tarmac subsidence at 50mph. About shat myself a few months ago on one badly maintained road :o >:(
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Unless it's wallowing around (lost compression damping) or banging or bouncing the wheels off bumps(lost damping altogether especially on self levelling), and it's not bothering you or they're leaking, leave well alone. Imo. Especially given you DONT wang round corners, and the front WILL need set up AFTER.
....and ignore that Stmo eejit there's a reason he's banned from all areas except general disrespect. .... NURSE, he's out of bed again! ;D
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Unless it's wallowing around (lost compression damping) or banging or bouncing the wheels off bumps(lost damping altogether especially on self levelling), and it's not bothering you or they're leaking, leave well alone. Imo. Especially given you DONT wang round corners, and the front WILL need set up AFTER.
....and ignore that Stmo eejit there's a reason he's banned from all areas except general disrespect. .... NURSE, he's out of bed again! ;D
Yes, ignore me, even though I said exactly the same as he did....but earlier :P
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Sorry, did someone speak? No thought not ;D
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Now now children. ::) ::) ::) ;D
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Given the price (about £50) that most spend on poly front bushes, or maybe even a new sound system (maybe £100, or a lot more) surely by far the biggest change for the least money (£60ish for the rears, and under £200 all-in) you can make on your car is new shocks. Going from fairly clapped-out to brand new I cannot stress how tight and planted the car felt afterwards, and she's still due a full geometry setup, which will no doubt help things that bit more, too. :)
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Checking the rears is fairly easy, jack up on stands, remove bottom bolt, get under and push the shock up, then down. It should be hard to compress but be even and constant through out its travel, and then extend slowly under its own steam in a controlled even constant down stroke. Self levelling makes this a pita though as the bladers interfere with the movement.
Any dead or stiff spots or failure to return to fully extended in a constant even movement and bin them.
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a failed rear sl shock on mine was very easy to spot with the bounce test - it just kept on bouncing
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a failed rear sl shock on mine was very easy to spot with the bounce test - it just kept on bouncing
Did it bang as the rear wheels bounced off bumps? Mine did.
Sl are a bit of law to themselves though. They don't last as long as normal shocks due to rust on the shock body, under the bladders.
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Shocks will start to degrade from the moment they are put on. Assuming one doesn't "fail", it will just degrade to the point it does nothing useful, which probably still not fail an MOT.
You *WILL* notice the difference with new shocks. But do you *need* them? Only you can decide.
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OK so I decided to change them on the TD Estate, but surprisingly, given the amount of OOF members who have changed them, there is no 'how to' for the fronts. :(
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.....so I guess I will just have to use the Haynes book of lies. :(
Reading back over different threads, it appears that Bilstein B4's are the preferred type. Are these good for front and rears on my PFL estate? :-\
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OK so I decided to change them on the TD Estate, but surprisingly, given the amount of OOF members who have changed them, there is no 'how to' for the fronts. :(
It really is a simple "undo a few bolts and the bits fall off in your hand" deal.
BUT you need some robust spring compressors, and be careful using them. And you will need to have the geometry done when you're finished.
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Worst part is probably undoing the drop link. I find the bottom nut easiest but you need to remove the top one which is partially unsited.
.... removing the spring as a pita as said, mostly because my spring compressors are too close to the shock when compressing.
Quite easy...
Slightly loosen wheel nuts
Jack on stands
Then follow this
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90652.0
Remove wheel
Remove drop link( small angle grinder if needed )
Remove brake clip/hose and cables from bracket
Remove two shock body bolts
Remove top nut and catch the strut as it falls out
Compress spring. Note order and which way up the parts are assembled. Swap parts and spring into new shock, re fit, leave camber / shock body bolts slighty loose so you can thump the wheel over to get the right shock to rim gap. Nip the bolts up 100nm iirc
17mm socket for wheel
18mm socket shock body bolts
17mm open spanner for drop link
24mm ring spanner for top nuts
11mm spanner for shock shaft
Pretty sure Tunnie did a rear shock guide for the estate.
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OK so I decided to change them on the TD Estate, but surprisingly, given the amount of OOF members who have changed them, there is no 'how to' for the fronts. :(
Take some pics :y
Basically, strut out (2 bolts holding strut to steering knuckle, single bolt at top.
Using spring compressors, dismantle strut, reassemble in same order, refit. Off to WIM (or similar) to get camber reset.
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.....so I guess I will just have to use the Haynes book of lies. :(
Reading back over different threads, it appears that Bilstein B4's are the preferred type. Are these good for front and rears on my PFL estate? :-\
Yes, but obtain the rear shock top mounts from VX as the Bilstein ones are pants in comparison :-\
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Thks guys, and Bilstein B4's all round for my driving? :-\
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Bit firmer than stock. What's the TD? Elite?
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Bit firmer than stock. What's the TD? Elite?
Just seen cdx. I'd stick with GM. For you. :)
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Bit firmer than stock. What's the TD? Elite?
Just seen cdx. I'd stick with GM. For you.
Ta :y
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Thks guys, and Bilstein B4's all round for my driving? :-\
B4s are the direct aftermarket replacement for original shocks. They are not "sports". For that reason, I would recommend for most. They cover a multitude of styles.
B6 are the firm sports ones (then B8 going more extreme).
You will notice a stiffer ride, regardless of what you put on, as your old ones are now weak, having served a lifetime. On top of that, I would say B4 are marginally stiffer than GM... ...but most people who replace old shocks with them will always say they are much firmer, simple because the old shocks were shot.
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Having replaced new LSC rear shocks that failed under warranty with b4 , I can say, b4 are firmer. Hence stick with standard if looking for ride comfort on a cdx with no sl.
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Ta, I'll ponder on that, and prices, before I purchase. Thinking that I may as well replace the front springs as well, having replaced the rears last year, thus having a new-ish complete set. Chris, I replaced droplinks recently, so they should come off OK.:-\ :y
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Should do then :y
Consider top mounts as well I guess. Might be worth checking if the shock is jumpy as the steering turns when it's jacked up both sides. Certainly grease them.
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As has also been mentioned apparently the rubber you get with the B4s are inferior to GM, so try and get new GM or some decent used ones (I'm on the hunt as we speak for decent used/free ones)
Can't personally say I find anything 'wrong' with the ones you get in the Bilstein kit, but the word on the street is they're evil and must be binned. Also 10/10 for the B4s - and I like my cars to be wobby, spongy, comfy, but don't find them too stiff at all, and you won't be disappointed in any way for fitting the slightly stiffer B4s over original GM.
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As has also been mentioned apparently the rubber you get with the B4s are inferior to GM, so try and get new GM or some decent used ones (I'm on the hunt as we speak for decent used/free ones)
Can't personally say I find anything 'wrong' with the ones you get in the Bilstein kit, but the word on the street is they're evil and must be binned. Also 10/10 for the B4s - and I like my cars to be wobby, spongy, comfy, but don't find them too stiff at all, and you won't be disappointed in any way for fitting the slightly stiffer B4s over original GM.
When you compare the mounting kits side by side you will see the differences in both construction and quality. The Bilstein ones are shit.
As for finding good condition second hand ones, good luck ;D the upper part is a wear component, as you'll see when/if you remove yours ;)
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Not sure if they have changed, but I used the rubbers that came with the B4s on the back of the Bullet, swapped pre-LPG days
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Not sure if they have changed, but I used the rubbers that came with the B4s on the back of the Bullet, swapped pre-LPG days
Pics speak for themselves...
Fitting kit as supplied with shocks...
(http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y486/05omegav6/a440039f-c2ca-4294-a00a-de87c29b00ac_zpshl5efz9b.jpg)
Genuine Fitting Kits, (Estate above, Saloon below)...
(http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y486/05omegav6/IMG_20150426_132411_zpsntty7br9.jpg)
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I'm happy to buy the GM kits, but may fit Bilstein shocks. I get trade price anyway from VX even if they're not on TC. What springs are recommended for the front, I guess GM again. :-\
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The 'best' setup is considered LSC (otherwise known as MV6) springs, and B4s. Sadly the LSC springs are no longer available new, so you have to hang around until you find one being broken. Depending on price, GM springs get lots of recommendation. I'm running on genuie GMs, but only because I got a set of LSC ones for £40, would I have paid the hundreds for brand new, that's another question :)
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I'm happy to buy the GM kits, but may fit Bilstein shocks. I get trade price anyway from VX even if they're not on TC. What springs are recommended for the front, I guess GM again. :-\
I fitted B4's and polybushed the front wishbone bushes on my estate a few weeks ago Shack
Left the old springs on with no problem whatsoever
Car feels totally different to drive but still nice and supple. Changes direction very nicely and just feels more planted on the road.
Old shocks (GM) was the originals and done 140K with no visible leaks at the front. Rear was totally shagged :-X
HTH :)
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I'm happy to buy the GM kits, but may fit Bilstein shocks. I get trade price anyway from VX even if they're not on TC. What springs are recommended for the front, I guess GM again. :-\
I fitted B4's and polybushed the front wishbone bushes on my estate a few weeks ago Shack
Left the old springs on with no problem whatsoever
Car feels totally different to drive but still nice and supple. Changes direction very nicely and just feels more planted on the road.
Old shocks (GM) was the originals and done 140K with no visible leaks at the front. Rear was totally shagged :-X
HTH :)
Thanks for that. I'll see what the prices are before prising open my normally welded close wallet. ::)
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Thanks for that. I'll see what the prices are before prising open my normally welded close wallet. ::)
Fitted Kilen TD-specific front coils to several ... and (from memory) so did Turk to his TD.
Ride height/quality and handling haven't been compromised either :y
Kilen part number is: 31042 ... and around 80 quid for the pair 8)
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Thanks for that. I'll see what the prices are before prising open my normally welded close wallet. ::)
Fitted Kilen TD-specific front coils to several ... and (from memory) so did Turk to his TD.
Ride height/quality and handling haven't been compromised either :y
Kilen part number is: 31042 ... and around 80 quid for the pair 8)
Thanks Byron. :y :y :y
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The 'best' setup is considered LSC (otherwise known as MV6) springs, and B4s. Sadly the LSC springs are no longer available new, so you have to hang around until you find one being broken. Depending on price, GM springs get lots of recommendation. I'm running on genuie GMs, but only because I got a set of LSC ones for £40, would I have paid the hundreds for brand new, that's another question :)
As a consensus across a group of oof members yes. But, key thing is to remember not what's best for you, or a group of oof members, but what's best for the member asking. Knowing Shak as I do, I don't think he's a spread freak. So I suspect comfort is more important to him. Might be wrong but I don't think he'd appreciate lsc.
More to the point, lsc shocks would be wasted unless fitting lsc springs as well. Which are NA I believe? ....as you say.
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In fact, is lsc available for the TD?
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I've been watching this thread with interest as I've never changed my front shocks and I've no record that they've ever been changed. :-\
Looking around on the net for prices these Meyles (http://www.allgermanparts.co.uk/product/product?path=1219_1226&product_id=14763&group=100121) seem like a good deal from AllGermanParts. :)
I've always had the impression that Meyle are a decent brand? :-\
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I've been very impressed with Meyle drop links, I'd give those a go if I needed a pair. Good price too :)
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The 'best' setup is considered LSC (otherwise known as MV6) springs, and B4s. Sadly the LSC springs are no longer available new, so you have to hang around until you find one being broken. Depending on price, GM springs get lots of recommendation. I'm running on genuie GMs, but only because I got a set of LSC ones for £40, would I have paid the hundreds for brand new, that's another question :)
As a consensus across a group of oof members yes. But, key thing is to remember not what's best for you, or a group of oof members, but what's best for the member asking. Knowing Shak as I do, I don't think he's a spread freak. So I suspect comfort is more important to him. Might be wrong but I don't think he'd appreciate lsc.
More to the point, lsc shocks would be wasted unless fitting lsc springs as well. Which are NA I believe? ....as you say.
Indeed :) I like to have the odd squirt on a B-road etc, but wouldn't consider myself a speek freak etc, and really deliberated long and hard before fitting the setup I have, as I specifically didnt want to lose the Omega 'waftability' and comfort. In no way find the ride on my Omega to be hard, or 'sporty', certainly not beyond the parameters of what any car should be capable of handling, in terms of an emergency swerve, etc. I'd recommend B4s and either standard or LSC springs to anyone, no matter now softly sprung they like their cars. In the OPs case, is it worth him trying to hunt out some LSCs? I'd say probably no, and I agree with Gixer, and the OP must tread what's best for him. Again, maybe worth just get the cheapest 'normal' shocks he can get (of which a few brand new ones have been cropping up on heebay for very reasonably money lately, so worth looking there)
Actually, on the subject of the standard or MV6 springs - are LSCs actually any stiffer, or simply 10mm lower than standard? :)
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The 'best' setup is considered LSC (otherwise known as MV6) springs, and B4s. Sadly the LSC springs are no longer available new, so you have to hang around until you find one being broken. Depending on price, GM springs get lots of recommendation. I'm running on genuie GMs, but only because I got a set of LSC ones for £40, would I have paid the hundreds for brand new, that's another question :)
As a consensus across a group of oof members yes. But, key thing is to remember not what's best for you, or a group of oof members, but what's best for the member asking. Knowing Shak as I do, I don't think he's a spread freak. So I suspect comfort is more important to him. Might be wrong but I don't think he'd appreciate lsc.
More to the point, lsc shocks would be wasted unless fitting lsc springs as well. Which are NA I believe? ....as you say.
I am actually, peanut butter, marmalade, nubile young ladies, anything that spreads easily actually. ::) ::) ::)
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:D ;D
I think this is clearly an admin that has altered that to make me look foolish, sir!
The only other option is that I made a typo, and that's completely impossible, I'd never do such a thong. :)
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;D ;D
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;D
In fact, is lsc available for the TD?
No dint fink so.
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Priced the shocks from GM, £242 on TC for all 4 corners, includes VAT. Doesn't sound too bad. Any thoughts? GM front springs are silly prices, £100 plus each, so pattern will be used. :y
Do the shocks from GM come complete with the mounting bushes etc.?
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Nope. Fitting kit is extra. As are top mounts on the front, and as are the other odds and sods.
However, I think they do give you the top nuts. ;) ;D
Traditionally, re use all else. It's usually ok. Up to you if you think it's worth changing front top mounts. But as you have two cars, is it worth stripping the TD down to see what knackered, and ordering accordingly?
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Nope. Fitting kit is extra. As are top mounts on the front, and as are the other odds and sods.
However, I think they do give you the top nuts. ;) ;D
Traditionally, re use all else. It's usually ok. Up to you if you think it's worth changing front top mounts. But as you have two cars, is it worth stripping the TD down to see what knackered, and ordering accordingly?
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In theory yes, but I prefer to crack straight on once started. I don't mind buying the kits if they are not much extra. You know how I like to mollycoddle my cars. ::)
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I've decide to go with B4's and Kilen springs (ordered). Can anyone provide a guide price for the B4's for front and rear please. :y
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The best prices I can find for the B4's mean paying about £80-£100 more than fitting GM, so its back to plan A, and going for GM OE. :y
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Balance motor sport for billys, as a starter for 10....?
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Balance motor sport for billys, as a starter for 10....?
Thks Chris, had a look at their site and prices not bad. Excuse my ignorance, but what is the small tub shaped object shown to the left of the shocks in their ads? I hope it is not necessary to fit a pump of some sort. :-\
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Linky?
Can't see what you mean here...?
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Linky?
Can't see what you mean here...?
Pics are generic... Fronts are a fair match for Vx, as are rears, (except for rod length on saloon shocks), if estate has self levelling then this will need binning as will rear springs... :y
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Ah this?
http://balancemotorsport.co.uk/bilstein-b4-gas-rear-shock-vauxhall-omega-omega-b-estate-21-22-23-2-0-2-0-16v-2-0-dti-16v-2-2-16v-2-2-dti-16v-2-5-dti-2-5-td-2-5-v6-2-6-2-6-v6-3-0-v6-3-2-v6-04-94-07-03-19-028552-3670.html
Yes generic pic, not omega shocks shown. Yours won't look like that. They'll be omega ones. No bracket, eyelet at the base etc...
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Can get a pair of Meyle shocks for less than a single B4, unless the quality is vastly different from their droplinks, I'll be going with them next.
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Ah this?
http://balancemotorsport.co.uk/bilstein-b4-gas-rear-shock-vauxhall-omega-omega-b-estate-21-22-23-2-0-2-0-16v-2-0-dti-16v-2-2-16v-2-2-dti-16v-2-5-dti-2-5-td-2-5-v6-2-6-2-6-v6-3-0-v6-3-2-v6-04-94-07-03-19-028552-3670.html
Yes generic pic, not omega shocks shown. Yours won't look like that. They'll be omega ones. No bracket, eyelet at the base etc...
That's it, thanks, I couldn't make out what it was. :-\
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Can get a pair of Meyle shocks for less than a single B4, unless the quality is vastly different from their droplinks, I'll be going with them next.
Oh Gawd, GM, Meyle, or B4's :-\ :-\ :-\
Decisions decisions. ??? ??? ??? :y
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Can get a pair of Meyle shocks for less than a single B4, unless the quality is vastly different from their droplinks, I'll be going with them next.
Oh Gawd, GM, Meyle, or B4's :-\ :-\ :-\
Decisions decisions. ??? ??? ??? :y
If you get Meyle, be good to hear what they are like :)
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Can get a pair of Meyle shocks for less than a single B4, unless the quality is vastly different from their droplinks, I'll be going with them next.
Oh Gawd, GM, Meyle, or B4's :-\ :-\ :-\
Decisions decisions. ??? ??? ??? :y
If you get Meyle, be good to hear what they are like :)
...you'll be a guinea pig. They may well be fine but buy at your own risk. B4's are, however, a known entity ;)
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Can get a pair of Meyle shocks for less than a single B4, unless the quality is vastly different from their droplinks, I'll be going with them next.
Oh Gawd, GM, Meyle, or B4's :-\ :-\ :-\
Decisions decisions. ??? ??? ??? :y
If you get Meyle, be good to hear what they are like :)
...you'll be a guinea pig. They may well be fine but buy at your own risk. B4's are, however, a known entity ;)
True. :y But at half the price of B4s, worth a go. So even if they only last half as long, its not a problem. Easy job to replace, unlike V6 gaskets. (For unknown parts)
Plus Meyle are known good in other areas. So worth a punt in my book
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Can get a pair of Meyle shocks for less than a single B4, unless the quality is vastly different from their droplinks, I'll be going with them next.
Oh Gawd, GM, Meyle, or B4's :-\ :-\ :-\
Decisions decisions. ??? ??? ??? :y
If you get Meyle, be good to hear what they are like :)
...you'll be a guinea pig. They may well be fine but buy at your own risk. B4's are, however, a known entity ;)
True. :y But at half the price of B4s, worth a go. So even if they only last half as long, its not a problem. Easy job to replace, unlike V6 gaskets. (For unknown parts)
Plus Meyle are known good in other areas. So worth a punt in my book
Plus a geo setup each time. :-\
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Only for the fronts :y
Rear shocks last less time but should have no bearing on geometry unless you forget to unbolt them prior to levering them out ::)
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I still hope its the rear drop links on mine, should get a little more out of the shocks. Original GM shocks lasted 8 years, current GM ones been on 7.
Our of interest how much are GM ones?
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Rear droplinks don't fail ;)
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Rear droplinks don't fail ;)
They are original to the car :-\
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Couldn't be a more different design to the front ones if they tried... and they only get loaded in one plane, whereas the fronts also twist with the steering :y
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Rear droplinks don't fail ;)
They are original to the car :-\
...and will see out a few more other cars life's as well. They are, as said, a completely different, and much more basic design. No ball joint, just a rubber eyelet with a bolt through it.
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Can get a pair of Meyle shocks for less than a single B4, unless the quality is vastly different from their droplinks, I'll be going with them next.
Oh Gawd, GM, Meyle, or B4's :-\ :-\ :-\
Decisions decisions. ??? ??? ??? :y
If you get Meyle, be good to hear what they are like :)
...you'll be a guinea pig. They may well be fine but buy at your own risk. B4's are, however, a known entity ;)
True. :y But at half the price of B4s, worth a go. So even if they only last half as long, its not a problem. Easy job to replace, unlike V6 gaskets. (For unknown parts)
Plus Meyle are known good in other areas. So worth a punt in my book
Means little sadly. Meyle heavy duty rearward wishbone bushes barely lasted 18 months, compared to GM ones on 2.5 ish years and still going strong.
But they might be worth punt.
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...and wtf has gaskets got to do with the price of fish? :-\ ;D
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Hmm. My shocks are original. 180k and 13 years old. Wonder if I should replace them? :-\
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I still hope its the rear drop links on mine, should get a little more out of the shocks. Original GM shocks lasted 8 years, current GM ones been on 7.
Our of interest how much are GM ones?
Fronts £53.80 Ea +Vat
Rears £47.20 + Vat
On TC
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I still hope its the rear drop links on mine, should get a little more out of the shocks. Original GM shocks lasted 8 years, current GM ones been on 7.
Our of interest how much are GM ones?
Fronts £53.80 Ea +Vat
Rears £47.20 + Vat
On TC
Thanks. Again double the price of Meyle!
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Hmm. My shocks are original. 180k and 13 years old. Wonder if I should replace them? :-\
Have you ever replaced the rear droplinks?
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Hmm. My shocks are original. 180k and 13 years old. Wonder if I should replace them? :-\
Have you ever replaced the rear droplinks?
Nope.
Did the front ones 18 months ago. knocking again. >:(
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Hmm. My shocks are original. 180k and 13 years old. Wonder if I should replace them? :-\
Have you ever replaced the rear droplinks?
Nope.
Did the front ones 18 months ago. knocking again. >:(
See i get droplink type noise from the back, maybe I've got the only car which they've failed on ;D
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More like you' shock mounts have.failed ::)
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More like you' shock mounts have.failed ::)
Al, where did you get the shock fitting kit you pictured in another thread? According to my stealer they are no longer avlbl for the rear ones on my my PFL TD Estate. :( :( :(
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No he hasn't !
Nobody has. Why? THEY DONT WEAR OUT TUNNIE. (Or at least nobody has needed to change them anyway ordinarily)
Your drop links are fine. Why do you think otherwise?
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More like you' shock mounts have.failed ::)
Al, where did you get the shock fitting kit you pictured in another thread? According to my stealer they are no longer avlbl for the rear ones on my my PFL TD Estate. :( :( :(
Kits are indeed NLS, but individual components are very much all available :y
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No he hasn't !
Nobody has. Why? THEY DONT WEAR OUT TUNNIE. (Or at least nobody has needed to change them anyway ordinarily)
Your drop links are fine. Why do you think otherwise?
Calm down dear.
Just going by previous helpful suggestions...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130505.15 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130505.15)
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More like you' shock mounts have.failed ::)
Al, where did you get the shock fitting kit you pictured in another thread? According to my stealer they are no longer avlbl for the rear ones on my my PFL TD Estate. :( :( :(
Kits are indeed NLS, but individual components are very much all available :y
Ta, excuse my ignorance but what in your experience is likely to be needed in the 'extras' dept. when fitting shocks?
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No he hasn't !
Nobody has. Why? THEY DONT WEAR OUT TUNNIE. (Or at least nobody has needed to change them anyway ordinarily)
Your drop links are fine. Why do you think otherwise?
Calm down dear.
Just going by previous helpful suggestions...
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130505.15 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130505.15)
Perfectly clam, just raising ones voice as your obviously having hearing issues.
Aaron is talking about roll bar mounts, NOT DROP LINKS. Roll bar mounts/bushes bolt to the top of the dif./subframe area. Drop rear of subframe, as the spring guide, for access. (Blind access iirc)
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More like you' shock mounts have.failed ::)
Al, where did you get the shock fitting kit you pictured in another thread? According to my stealer they are no longer avlbl for the rear ones on my my PFL TD Estate. :( :( :(
Kits are indeed NLS, but individual components are very much all available :y
Ta, excuse my ignorance but what in your experience is likely to be needed in the 'extras' dept. when fitting shocks?
The items listed as the fitting kit :y
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Having now fitted the GM shocks and new front springs, the car definitely feels more 'planted', and the steering is tighter.
Having ordered as many parts for fitting as I could, I then found that some parts came with the shocks so I am left with lots of spares for anyone fitting new shocks, see For sale list. :y
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Are the bottom shock fixing bolts/screws the same on Saloons and Estates ?
Just refitted my rear shocks today and needed to use 24inch breaker bar to get bolt out, and despite lots of grease,similar issues getting old bolt back in.
If bolts are the same..saloon to estate.. I will take all 3 please.
Do the bolts have the domed washer ?
Probably best doing this via PM and assume paypal as gift for payment ?? :y
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As I did not have time to go to Chesham, I had the geo setup done locally at Imperial tyres. I asked the fitter, Steve, to use the modified WIM figures, which he was happy to to do. As you can see, I got the camber fairly OK using CG's method before they were adjusted today.
(http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae10/Tristar-1/TD%20Geometry%20setup%20figures%206th%20July%202015%20Imp.%20Tyres_zpsc8jfkhbt.jpg) (http://s952.photobucket.com/user/Tristar-1/media/TD%20Geometry%20setup%20figures%206th%20July%202015%20Imp.%20Tyres_zpsc8jfkhbt.jpg.html)
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Only the rear camber is slightly wide, but still in limits. Threw it around a bit on the way home, and it handles well. I'm really pleased with their setting up and will go there again. They have recently fitted some brand new American equipment. :y
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Only the rear camber is slightly wide, but still in limits. Threw it around a bit on the way home, and it handles well. I'm really pleased with their setting up and will go there again. They have recently fitted some brand new American equipment. :y
As I've mentioned before giving wim settings to a trusted place is the way forward if on a budget. Plus saves me a trek!
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Only the rear camber is slightly wide, but still in limits. Threw it around a bit on the way home, and it handles well. I'm really pleased with their setting up and will go there again. They have recently fitted some brand new American equipment. :y
Wrt rear camber, it's a compromise with rear track, but that set up looks pretty good considering :y
A good set up is worth every single penny and can transform a so so car into one that is genuinely fun to drive 8)