Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: amba on 09 June 2015, 08:28:37
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Oil leak has been traced to CS not sealing to block and after further investigation it appears CS fitted is a poor pattern part with no sealing ring and cant be tightened to block,despite it giving no issues with operation.
On advise only solution to cure oil leak is a replacemnet CS with a genuine GM part which I will order later today.I have replaced several over my years of Omega ownership but usually during larger srtip downs so access never an issue.
Question is can CS be replaced by removing plenum/inlet or is it better to remove wipers and scuttle ? as I have a totally watertight scuttle and have avoided any removal of it in the past .
Advise welcomed please :y
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Don't quote me, but I think you can just get to it without removal of either, though obviously plenum and scuttle off makes things loads easier. Never tried myself, though, always had one or both off at the time
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Can see plug without removal of either but was curious if plenum/inlet was simpler than scuttle/wipers as really am trying to avoid disturbing the sealed scuttle now. ;)
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On a 2.6 / 3.2 you're got less junk to undo vs the 2.5/3.0s and less stuff in the way, so I'd say in your case plenum - the advantages are really as follows...
Scuttle off
Lots of tiny fiddly clips
Water leaking then higher probability
Wiper arms off too
Plenum off
Effectively four studs, and a couple of jubiliee clips
Higher risk of mucking up the idle via a vac leak you don't realise you've caused.
Either route, as with anything, if you do it right, careful, take your time then there's no problem, both can cause issue, or you could remove both once a week for the rest of the year and never encounter a problem. On my car there's no trim clips holding the scuttle on, so I'd take the scuttle off (as it's coming off seemingly every week!). In your case
I'd try taking the plenum off - if you can't get at it ok without disturbing anything :y
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If you can see it and can get it off its bracket (it just slides up) there is no reason to remove anything. Pull it up off its bracket and pull the slack from the sensor towards you (or cut the wire on the sensor side), undo the multi-plug and face the plug towards the front of the car. When you fit the new sensor, leave the plug facing forwards, plug it in at the top and route it down past the break pipes ( nearside inner wing ) and then fit as usual.
Doing it this way means that the plug is accessible for any future changes. There is just enough slack to allow you to turn it around so that it pokes out from under the scuttle. :y
Hope that makes sense. :y
Edit:
Bear with me, I've just taken a picture of mine so I'll post it up when I've eaten my dinner. :)
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Oil leak has been traced to CS not sealing to block and after further investigation it appears CS fitted is a poor pattern part with no sealing ring and cant be tightened to block,despite it giving no issues with operation.
On advise only solution to cure oil leak is a replacemnet CS with a genuine GM part which I will order later today.I have replaced several over my years of Omega ownership but usually during larger srtip downs so access never an issue.
Question is can CS be replaced by removing plenum/inlet or is it better to remove wipers and scuttle ? as I have a totally watertight scuttle and have avoided any removal of it in the past .
Advise welcomed please :y
I've just done mine on the 2.5 and you don't need to remove either - you are going to route the new cable up the passenger wing side away from heat anyway. So just reach into gap between scuttle and plenum and retrieve the plug, unplug the old one and leave the old cable in place :y
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Photo as promised. :y
The lead is normally under the pipe, I have lifted it clear for clarity. :y It is fed over a brake line to hold it away from the heat, as mentioned above. :y
(http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac142/Alan-Hearn/c7507300-0851-4653-b7f6-e1ce20475236_zpseetiak7g.jpg) (http://s894.photobucket.com/user/Alan-Hearn/media/c7507300-0851-4653-b7f6-e1ce20475236_zpseetiak7g.jpg.html)
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Great advise as always Guys :y :y :y
Will crack on with that tomorrow now and usefull picture too. :y
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..........route it down past the break pipes ........
Uh oh, grammar police alert. ;D Should be 'brake' obviously. ::)
Will I ever be forgiven? ;D
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I've replaced a crank sensor without removing anything but the sensor itself?
Nothing needs to be removed :)
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After words of encouragement I rang my local dealer to check stock availablilty and 2 instock and on TC £43=12 + vat.
20 minutes later part bought and on way home.
It is actually quite simple and managed without removing anything other than old sensor which given the condition of the heaprotection wasnt done a moment too soon as bared wires were visible where alumimium protection had perished.Turned out sensor was nasty ebay jobbie with no markings although in fairness it hasnt given any issues in my ownership ,but was a ticking bomb.
Cable routed up behind brake pipes and secured with loose fitting cable ties.Did find it easier to remove plenum brake servo pipe to push connector fully home and tuck back behind scuttle as also found the black plastic mounting clip for the sensor had also been broken by a previous hamfisted mechanic.
Job took less than 45 minutes and all cleaned up and starts on the button.
Unsure if I will notice any difference for my £50 + spend but did prevent a future breakdown from happenening and also fixed the messy oil leak. ;)
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..........route it down past the break pipes ........
Uh oh, grammar police alert. ;D Should be 'brake' obviously. ::)
Will I ever be forgiven? ;D
Nope,I doubt it :y
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that sounds cheap for a CS, to me. I know there's different prices, dependent on the different versions, though.
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Yes I was pleasantly surprised ,although my usual VX dealers tend to give me TC prices on most parts as have used them for 10+ years so know parts guy by first names and decent chaps.
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Yes I was pleasantly surprised ,although my usual VX dealers tend to give me TC prices on most parts as have used them for 10+ years so know parts guy by first names and decent chaps.
These should be the 2 options, so you have done well and better than the TC price :y
90492006, retail £90.50 + vat (Trade Club £70.58 + vat)
or
90492061, Retail £68.00 + vat (Trade Club £52.94 + vat)
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VX part No. for 3.2 crank sensor is 90540743
2003 model...£43=12 + vat on TC as from EPC and advise from other members with identical models and age.
Good price agree :y
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VX part No. for 3.2 crank sensor is 90540743
2003 model...£43=12 + vat on TC as from EPC and advise from other members with identical models and age.
Good price agree :y
Fair enough, how many different crank sensors do they need to 1 series of engine!
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tell me about it! :D
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Yes I was pleasantly surprised ,although my usual VX dealers tend to give me TC prices on most parts as have used them for 10+ years so know parts guy by first names and decent chaps.
Is this WJ Kings Andrew??...as their prices are always better than say against the likes of Barnes be it TC or not :o :y
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Yep Mark....W.J.Kings highly recommended and surprisingly decent people at the parts dept in Dartford to deal with.
Crank Shaft Sensor all oil tight now and normal service ressumed. :y
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Great news!
We shall be buying crank sensors direct off you from now on :y
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Happy to help if you need 1 obviously you will need to factor in postage etc